The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
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The characteristics and making techniques of the woven belts excavated from the tombs of Uiwon-gun and Sim Ikchang in the 17th and 18th centuries

17~18세기 의원군과 심익창 묘 출토 광다회(廣多繪)의 양식과 제작기법

  • Received : 2021.09.11
  • Accepted : 2021.10.10
  • Published : 2021.10.31
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Abstract

Uiwon-gun (1661-1722) and Sim Ikchang (1652-1725) were people of the upper classes of the Joseon Dynasty, who's belts woven with thread were found in their graves. The purpose of this study is to find a term suitable for the belts of these two people and to reveal the characteristics of the two belts and decipher the 8-character text marked on Shim Ikchang's belt to understand its meaning. The terms used during the Joseon Dynasty related to woven belts include "Gwangdaho", "Daeja", "Bunhapdae", "Sagagda", "Bangseungah", and "Samunjikdae". Among these terms, "Gwangdahoe" is the most suitable to indicate the belts of for both belts. The belts are made of a silk fabric of narrow width. The size of Uiwon-gun's belt is 2.8×199cm, and because it is folded in half lengthwise and sewn, the original width is 8cm. It was woven in the imitation gauze technique. Sim Ik-chang's belt measures 10.5×258cm and is decorated with a woven net at the end. There are water and mountain patterns on both ends of the belt, with 11 lines of flower patterns equally spaced between. The belt is damask, the inscription part is made of brocade with letters expressed in golden thread. The meaning of the inscription is "Made in Hanbu. May you live a long and healthy life".

Keywords

Acknowledgement

The present research was supported by the research fund of Dankook University in 2020.

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