• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.9
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• pp.131-147
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• 2011

This study puts the significance on the trends, the characteristics, the factors and background of the typical diversification of 2000's historical dramas and of their costume in conjunction with the popular culture. We analyzed the materials like the official web-sites, the articles and promotional photos based on 47 TV historical dramas and 21 historical movies. And we, approaching the characteristics of popular culture in connection with the social, cultural, economic, emotional and technical aspects, considered the trends of the historical dramas and their connection with the paradigms of the contemporary popular culture. The results of this analysis are summarized as follows. First, the 2000's historical dramas & their costume, in the process to widen communication with the public, rose the values of popular culture, economic values, traditional values. Second, the diversification of the costumes in historical dramas, derived from the diversification of the era Genre characters and this is related to the characteristics of popular culture in 2000's such as the diversity, the nature of mixture, flexibility and the orientation of variation. Third, the new media environment and the imaging technology of 2000's raised completeness of the historical dramas and their costume. As the technical background placed the emphasis on realistic representation. Fourth, the costume of historical dramas in 2000's reflected the intention of the production in consideration with the emotional aspects of popular culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.88-96
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to present examples for modern application with traditional color on ceremonial costume of Korean folk belief which is regarded as representative research material standing for Korean cultural archetype. The arrangements of color on the ceremonial costume of Korean folk belief were selected from 11 items specified as an import intangible cultural asset. These color arrangements were composed of fundamental colors from the viewpoint of modern color sensation, but had a excellent harmony in Hue. Therefore, not shifting Hue of color arrangement on ceremonial costume, traditional color arrangement was apply to contemporary it by shifting tone. Brilliant and deep chromatic tone that belong to 3, 4 area was converted into toned light grey, light clear, dark deep, toned dark grey, and greyish chromatic tone that belong to 1, 2 area or 5, 6, 0 area or 2, 7, 9 area. The plan that applies arrangement color with brightness contrast of traditional fundamental colors on a modern color harmony was presented from that. Like this, we can combine traditional color into modern color sensation, stylize and apply it on a production of character, logogram design, fashion design for characters in animation or game. From this, we'll be able to be close to the color arrangement sensation including our racial emotion in the everyday life.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.57-76
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• 2001

This study was intended to make a comparative analysis of the plastic features of Korean and Japanese dragon patterns found in the process of recreating traditions in comtemporary fashion based on the investigation into the style of expression in relation to the origin, formative evolution, symbolism and traditional costume of the dragon. The form of the dragon has evolved with some similarity and peculiarity between both countries and been changed into many kinds and diverse forms such as the humorous dragon pattern of the Yi Dynasty and the simplified and designed dragon pattern symbolizing the Japanese family crest and the like, Its symbolism has lasted in terms of the sacrificial object, royal power, good omen, Buddhist guardian and the like. There is a difference in the aesthetic sense due to the different traditions and cultural background between Korea and Japan, and the dragon pattern found in the process of recreating the tradition in comtemporary fashion manifested itself as the peculiar aspect. An attempt was made to make a comparative analysis of the dragon pattern found in comtemporary fashion between Korea and Japan. The following results were obtained: First, the commonality between both countries was to make a contemporary expression of the dragon pattern, which was expressed in a realistic form because of a traditionally inherent strong image of the dragon. On the other hand, the designed dragon pattern rarely found expression. It can be said that carefully treating the dragon pattern is attributed to the Oriental thinking like this. Second, Korean people have arranged one or more simplified dragon patterns taking on a form of the coiling dragon in the composition of the scattered point and made a comtemporary expression of them by the contrast of black and white shading in Korea. And the humorous form of the dragon pattern manifested itself in the Yi Dynasty. On the other hand, the case of printing the dragon pattern in the black dragon sword of all over the Kabuki costume in a pictorial composition has frequently appeared in Japan. And Japanese people have expressed its lightness and briskness rather than the dignity and strength that the dragon pattern gives with the use of strong color tones and new materials.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.151-166
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the Russian abstract artist Kazimir Malevich's works during the period of absolutism and thereupon, suggest some knitwear designs practical, decorative and creative. For this purpose, the researcher reviewed domestic and foreign literature, dissertations and academic journals to determine the Russian abstract fine art and the significance of Kazimir Malevich's works in the history of arts and thereupon, examined Malevich's works or the champions of absolutism in terms of their geometric formative elements or forms and colors. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; First, paintings may be important motives for the contemporary costume designs, while being a major driving power for development of some original designs depending on artists' personal thoughts and expression techniques. Second, this study is deemed to suggest creative and original techniques and motive applications for fashion designs by introducing the elements of Kazimir Malevich's paintings into costume designs, and provide for an opportunity to suggest new values by combining arts and fashion. Third, the knit jacquard technique, one of the major techniques for the knit design works using Kazimir Malevich's absolutism works, is considered a tubular jacquard featuring the deepest sense of thickness. The intarsia technique is preferred in the recent trend for light fabric because it features clear background patterns and allows for thinner fabric. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will serve to expand the domain of expression by means of an art marketing or meeting between arts and fashion in our contemporary industries.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.585-602
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is twofold: First, to develop new sustainable design methods (aligned with ethnic elements and traditional culture) combined with three-dimensional digital clothing technology throughout the design process, which can be presented as guideline materials for various fashion designs to be developed in contemporary sensibilities. Second, it is the intention to produce creative fashion designs by incorporating the characteristics and methods of Miao's Huangping batik dyeing technique and to present various possibilities in the fashion design field. The overall design characteristics sought by Miao minority are in line with the complex terrain and the ecological and climatic conditions. Miaoist batik dyeing (registered as part of Chinese national intangible cultural heritage) features unique production methods and patterns. The study results are as follows. First, this attempt has enabled understanding of the national costume culture as Chinese Miao's traditional cultural heritage to be promoted, while the direction of contemporary design development using traditional elements has been presented. Second, the study demonstrated new and innovative expressions and styles relying on three-dimensional digital contouring technology and identified the possibility of developing various designs. Third, it was confirmed that the dyed batik pattern design created by the three-dimensional digital contouring technology could be recombined or expanded as digital printing to express the traditional ethnic designs in a practical manner utilizing digital printing techniques based on traditional characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.328-345
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• 2021

The aim of this study is to investigate morphological characteristics of Hanbok images in children's books and propose a direction for the modernization and globalization of traditional culture. This study examines 43 children's books by contemporary foreign illustrators that contain Hanbok illustrations and analyzes them from postcolonial perspective. The results include the following three attributes: first, the transformation of clothing structure and donning method that confuse fundamentals of Korean costume; second, the Westernization of silhouette drawing with tailored garments analogous to Western dress; and third, extension to East Asian dress that represents Hanbok mixed with Chinese or Japanese costume and use what is considered to be the East Asian patterns instead of Korean traditional ones. These attributes are based on Eurocentrism, which expresses and interprets the East from the Western view point with continuously distorted image of the East. Korean illustrators also painted Hanbok incorrectly, which could influence foreign illustrators. Nevertheless, traditional dress illustrated in various ways has artistic value and has a popular global impression. Further, it enables children to experience either own or other cultures through dress illustrations. Thus, the outsider requires an in-depth understanding of other cultures, while the insider needs a critical perception of their own culture as described by others while revisiting the original resources. Furthermore, we suggest follow-up research on Hanbok for subsequent generations; publishing translated books on various topics, producing and disseminating a primer for diverse readers, and essentially receiving counsel from experts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.26-39
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• 2012

This study intends to reconsider pleat, which was undermined as something too simple to express the details for women's costume, by focusing on the aesthetic value of plea in men's costumes in the west before the 20th century. Furthermore, based on the aesthetic value of the pleat, diverse studies on contemporary men's costumes shall help to attempt to set up a basis for the new mode of men's costume. The pleat, a component in the costume since the ancient times, had unique characteristics including functionality, a sense of volume, directing effect that is caused by line repetitions and formativeness that results through elasticity. First, the aesthetics of the pleat before the 20th century shows rhythmic sense through the repetition of the pleat line as shown in the drape type costume, and it also shows a sense of volume as the pleat is moved along the motion of the body. Second, it shows functionality as the expansion of space moves in accordance with the motion of body sets up an internal space of the costume that facilitates body motion. Third, the pleat extends two dimension space into three dimension space using its elasticity. It exaggerates specific parts of the costume while ignoring body shape in order to symbolize status and authority of men. Fourth, it unifies the costume by wrapping the body by using quadrangle cloths with drapers, and expanding the silhouette with the pleat artificially to conceal the physical character and personality of the wearer. The physical character of the wearer disappears into the space made by the pleat. The pleat reveals the voluptuous beauty within.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.96-117
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is focused on revealing teenager characteristics and mass culture in the end of the 20th century, and researching the general traits of teenager costume in the latter half of the \`90s and the typical style based on the analysis of the teenager culture. The result of this study are following as; The general traits of teenager costume are classified with sports-orientation, brand-orientation, and foreign street fashion-orientation. Typical styles are classified with sportive look, hiphop look, and funny look. Sportive look became the core of the street fashion developed with the street sports in the city, and presented the practical use with the fashionability mixing sportswear such as hightech snickers, sports character wear and items. Hiphop look, the genderless fashion, expresses teenager\`s free life style and the diversiied sensibility and deconstructs the border of gender, racism. Funny look accepts the burden of the millenium as a humor and presents katharsis by creating unexpected style. The contemporary costume of teenager deconstructs the fixed idea about mix and match, good taste and bad taste, gender, coordination suited with T.P.O and intends ‘open costume’ for 21st century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.40-54
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• 2012

The significance of this research lies in the analysis of that appears in the comedy . It also aims to propose conceptual and analytical costume designs that emphasize the formal aspects of play by reflecting on the comical elements simultaneously. , the subject of this study, was played on November 12, 2009 at the Small Theater (Dalohreum Theater) in the National Theater as a celebration of the 40th anniversary of Suwon Women's College. The costumes were designed by this researcher and were produced in collaboration with the Creative Performances Research Institute (Suwon Women's College). The comic elements were categorized into deconstruction, deviation and unexpectedness according to previous studies on the humorous nature of comedy, and their aesthetic meanings were applied to the costumes. The designs that reflect the comic elements are as follows. The costume design reflecting deconstruction is a way that disassembles and recombines constructive aspects of clothing. It consists of seam margins outside or just left disassembled without sewing, dismantling the boundary of outerwear and underwear. The costume design reflects deviation because reformed shapes of collars, the variation of length and closure of skirts deviate from the traditional style. These are designed by distorting traditional designs with deviation and transcend of tradition. The costume designs the reflect unexpectedness integrates both tradition and the contemporary, and use materials of diversity and heterogeneity, and these are composed of external formats the result from incongruity. Because comic elements are metaphysical concepts that carry meanings that are difficult to define according to the country and period, it is required to analyze, organize and utilize their characteristics and meanings of each period. Since this study analyzed the comical elements of a play and applied them to costume design, it is hoped that a follow-up study of analytical costume design is be done, and that more diverse and more creative costume designs are in the next generation.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2006

This case study is to embody the birth of a beautiful goddess out of seashells in a contemporary fashion design collection, on the basis of the mythology of The Birth of Venus. The main theme attempts to reinterpret the image of the goddess of love and beauty and express the organic vitality of seashells and oceanic feelings by swirls in motion. To accomplish this, three dimensional silhouette of layered forms of voluminous outer and fitted inner is applied to design ideas with spiral curves. The opposite texture of something sculptural and transparent versus smooth and shiny is used to express the layered structure of seashells with the delicacy of goddess. Neutral colours and different tones of pink appeal to oceanic feelings and feminine emotion in a modern way. Various techniques by the geometric simplicity of flat patterns and pleating with boning are also performed to express the vital movement of organism. Throughout the whole process of this case study, the conceptual idea of Swirls in Motion - a goddess and seashells is reinterpreted to a contemporary fashion by personal and creative design development process. In particular, it is evaluated by the process of primary researches, various design developments and experimentations to the main theme.