The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Development of fashion design applying to costume and Huangping batik of the Chinese minority Miao

중국 소수민족 묘족(苗族) 복식과 황평 납염 특성을 활용한 패션디자인

  • Long, Lulu (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University) ;
  • Lee, Younhee (Major in Human-Tech Convergence, Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Hanyang University)
  • 용루루 (한양대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 이연희 (한양대학교 의류학과 휴먼테크융합전공)
  • Received : 2021.08.02
  • Accepted : 2021.08.23
  • Published : 2021.08.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The purpose of this study is twofold: First, to develop new sustainable design methods (aligned with ethnic elements and traditional culture) combined with three-dimensional digital clothing technology throughout the design process, which can be presented as guideline materials for various fashion designs to be developed in contemporary sensibilities. Second, it is the intention to produce creative fashion designs by incorporating the characteristics and methods of Miao's Huangping batik dyeing technique and to present various possibilities in the fashion design field. The overall design characteristics sought by Miao minority are in line with the complex terrain and the ecological and climatic conditions. Miaoist batik dyeing (registered as part of Chinese national intangible cultural heritage) features unique production methods and patterns. The study results are as follows. First, this attempt has enabled understanding of the national costume culture as Chinese Miao's traditional cultural heritage to be promoted, while the direction of contemporary design development using traditional elements has been presented. Second, the study demonstrated new and innovative expressions and styles relying on three-dimensional digital contouring technology and identified the possibility of developing various designs. Third, it was confirmed that the dyed batik pattern design created by the three-dimensional digital contouring technology could be recombined or expanded as digital printing to express the traditional ethnic designs in a practical manner utilizing digital printing techniques based on traditional characteristics.

Keywords

References

  1. Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology National Costume Museum. (n.d.a). Dandu batik costume. Retrieved February 13, 2021, from http://www.biftmuseum.com/collection/info?sid=15412&colCatSid=2
  2. Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology National Costume Museum. (n.d.b). Huangping batik costume. Retrieved February 13, 2021, from http://www.biftmuseum.com/collection/info?sid=15411&colCatSid=2
  3. Chang, S. N. (2005). Complete collection of Chinese embroidery costumes (Vol. 5). Tianjin, China: Tianjin People's Fine Arts Publishing House.
  4. China's Intangible Cultural Heritage. (2018). List of representative projects of national intangible cultural heritage. Retrieved July 20, 2020, from http://www.ihchina.cn/project#target1
  5. Echo of Things Chinese. (2007). 中国土布系列: 蜡染(下) [Chinese local cloth series: Batik(2)]. Guizhou, China: Guizhou People's Publishing House.
  6. He, C., & Yang, W. B. (2009). 中华锦绣 贵州蜡染 [Guizhou batik]. Suzhou: Suzhou University Press.
  7. Hong, J. M., & Kim, Y. S. (2001). A study on Miao traditional costume of Guizhou province in China (1): Centering around woman's costume in Qiandongnan autonomous prefecture. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 3(1), 53-60.
  8. Jeon, H., Baek, G., & Kim, H. (2007). A study on the women's costume of Red Miao in Guizhou China (I): Comparing with the costume of Red Miao between modern and the Quing Dynasty. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 10(3), 101-116.
  9. Jiang, Y., Jin, S., & Lee, Y. (2020). Formal characteristics of headdress in Chinese minorities. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 28(3), 356-375. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2020.28.3.356
  10. Kim, H. S. (2009). A study on pattern of the Miao costume in China: Focusing on the paraffin dyeing embroidery weaving. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 12(2), 31-42.
  11. Kim, Y. S. (2002). A study on embroidered figures of Miao's traditional costume Guizhou Province in China. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 4(1), 31-39.
  12. Kim, Y. S. (2010). A study on Miao people batik dyeing of Guizhou province in China. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 13(2), 63-79.
  13. Lee, M. J. (2008). A study on Miao batik (The art of crafts) in Guizhou China. Unpublished master's thesis, Sookmyung Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  14. Li, L. (2017). Aesthetic value and performance characteristics of the China Miao embroidery. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul National University, Seoul, Korea.
  15. Liu, R. P., & He, X. (2013). Construction patterns of Chinese costume: Volume of costume. Beijing: China Textile & Apparel Press.
  16. Meng, Y., Choi, J., & Kim, J. (2018). A comparative study on Chinese batik of Miao and Buyi in GuiZhouSheng. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 26(4), 531-546. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2018.26.4.531
  17. National Bureau of Statistics of China. (2019). Population survey. Retrieved July 23, 2020, from https://data.stats.gov.cn
  18. Park, C. S., & Cho, U. Y. (2002). 중국 소수민족 복식 [Chinese minority costume]. Seoul: Publishing Company Minsokwon.
  19. The Cultural Palace of Nationalities. (1986). 中国苗族服饰 [Chinese Miao costume]. Beijing: The Ethnic Publishing House.
  20. Wan, Z. X., & Ma, X. R. (2010). 贵州蜡染 [Guizhou batik]. Guizhou, China: Guizhou Nationalities Publishing House.
  21. Wang, Y., Lee, J., & Lee, Y. (2017). Fashion design applying to the features of the Chinese Zhuang costume. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 25(5), 694-707. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2017.25.5.694
  22. Wu, S. Z. (2000). 中国苗族图志 [A picture album of China's Miao costumes and Ornaments]. Guizhou, China: Guizhou People's Publishing House.
  23. Yang, Y. (1999). 中国民族服饰文化图典 [Chinese national costume culture]. Beijing: Mass Fine Art Publishing House.
  24. Yang, Z. (2002). 묘족복식문화 [Miao costume culture]. Seoul: Kyungin Cultural Society.
  25. Zhang, S. S., & Liu, Y. (2019). 中国贵州民族民间美术全集: 蜡染 [The Collection set of folk art and crafts in Guizhou China: Batik]. Guizhou, China: Guizhou people's Publishing House.
  26. Zhang, Y., & Kim, S. J. (2011). Fashion design studies on reinterpretation of Chinese ethnic minority costumes. Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association, 13(2), 175-183.
  27. Zhou, Y. (2013). 蜡去花现: 贵州少数民族传统蜡染手工艺研究 [Remove the wax see flowers]. Beijing: Central University for Nationalities Press.
  28. Zhu, L. (2011). Research on batik decoration patterns in GeJia Southeast Guizhou]. Unpublished master's thesis, Yangzhou University, Yangzhou, China.