• Title/Summary/Keyword: Complex silk gauze

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Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics from Papyeung-Yun's Tomb (파평윤씨 묘 출토직물의 제직특성 연구)

  • Cho Hyo-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.1 s.100
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    • pp.32-43
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    • 2006
  • Excavated fabrics from Papyeung-yun's tomb totals at 208 in their numbers. They comprised 118 pieces of silk tabby(紬), 16 pieces of thin silk tabby, 8 pieces of thin filament silk tabby (絹), 43 pieces of satin damask(段), 8 pieces of compound satin(金線), 1 piece of twill(綾), 1 piece of complex gauze(羅), l piece of simple gauze(紗), 4 pieces of cotton(綿布), 4 pieces of hemp(麻布) and 3 pieces of ramie(苧布). As shown in the preceding list, $95\%$ of all the items are weaved from silk. To list a few characteristics of excavated fabrics from Papyoung-Yun's lineage, there are A vivid gold-colored compound satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 4-end complex gauze of Neoul that is women's head cover. To note, names of the fabrics used in this article are based on the information from the literatures and are as following silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), compound satin(金線), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), cotton(綿布), twill(綾), hemp(麻布)and ramie(苧布).

Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics from Kim Yeoon's Tomb(1596-1665) (김여온(1596-1665)묘 출토직물에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.44 no.1 s.215
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    • pp.139-150
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    • 2006
  • Eighty-four fabrics, all weaved from silk, were excavated from Kim Yeoon's tomb. They comprised 51 pieces of silk tabby, 13 of satin damask, 17 of twill, and 2 of complex gauze, 1 of damask on tabby. The fabrics featured high quality of satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 3-end complex gauze. The names of the fabrics used in this article are based on literature sources and include silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby(紬), filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), and twill(綾).

Type and Characteristics of Gauze Fabric of Ancient Korea - Focused oil Gauze Fabrics Shown on Costume Restraint of the King Hungduk - (한국 고대 羅직물의 유형과 특성 -흥덕왕 복식금계에 나타난 羅직물을 중심으로-)

  • 권영숙;신경철;장현주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.1
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    • pp.21-32
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    • 2001
  • Gauze is very light and thin. Their warps are entangled and their structure is loose. It is natural that they are easier to decay than other silk fabrics through physiochemical processes over a long period of time. Nonetheless quite many remains of Gauze fabrics can be found in China or Japan as well as in Korea. Various Gauze was used in costumes since the era of the Three Kingdoms and their weaving techniques, such as using gold threads with silk-fabrics, was developed in Koryo dynasty era, which made it possible to create more magnificent gauze fabrics in Korea. Relatively a lot of Gauze fabrics are remained in Korea. Based on these corroborative relics, this thesis analyzes the characteristics of gauze fabrics possesed in Korea and categorizes the gauze fabrics described in the Decrees on Costume Restraint of the King Hungduk. This also compares them with the present gauze in other countries. The types of gauze fabrics are generally divided into desined gauze, and non-designed gauze, the one without pattern. There ar a lot of desined gauze, such as dyeing gauze, brocade gauze, embroidery with gauze ground, patterned gauze with gauze ground etc. which were found in Korea and also in China and Japan. Non-designed gauze is divided into 2-end complex gauze, 3-end complex gauze, 4-end complex gauze, etc depending on the number of crossing warps. All of the non-designed gauze of Koryo dynasty found in Korea was 4-end complex gauze fabrics. These non-designed gauze fabrics were also found in Japan and China.

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Characteristics of Jeogori Found in the Gwan-eum Bodhisattva Statue in Bogwang Temple of Goryeo Dynasty (보광사 고려시대 관음보살좌상(觀音菩薩坐像) 복장(腹藏) 저고리의 특성)

  • Park, Yoon-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.10
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 2009
  • One piece of Jeogori and several books of the Goryeo dynasty were found inside of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple and they were designated as national treasure of Korea, No. 1571. The jeogori was the Jeogsam as the kind of underwear and conjectured as for women by considering its size. The collar of the jeogori was 3cm-wide square-shaped collar without gussit and the sleeve was close to straight line. Also the jeogori was designed without breast ties and could be adjusted by knot button. The fabrics for the jeogori showed similar pattern as complex silk gauze in 1302. It has not been reported yet that the complex silk gauze was used for the Jeogsam from Goryeo Dynasty to Joseon Dynasty. Comparing the Jeogori of the Bogwang temple to those of Goryeo Dynasty, it can be appropriately estimated as the remains of the Goryeo Dynasty since its shape and materials are very similar to those found in the Jeogori's of the Goryeo Dynasty and it was found between the books of the Goryeo Dynasty inside of the knee part of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple. Although only one piece of Jeogori was found, it's importance in cultural value or in the study of the fabric history cannot be underestimated considering the fact that the Jeogories of the Goryeo Dynasty are scarce, and that the used fabric was not commonly used complex silk gauze, and especially that this Jeogori is the only existing Jeogsam made of complex silk gauze.

The Characteristics of Excavated Fabrics from the Couple's Tomb of Jinju Ryu (진주류씨(晉州柳氏) 합장 묘 출토직물에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Lee, Eun-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.45 no.2
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    • pp.51-62
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    • 2007
  • This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

A Study of The Fabrics for Enshrining Oblations inside a Buddhist Statue in MoonSoo Temple (문수사 복장직물에 관한 소고)

  • 권영숙;장현주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.6
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    • pp.101-115
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    • 2001
  • This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

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A Study of the Fabrics Used for the Official Hats in Baekje Dynasty (백제 관모에 사용된 직물 연구)

  • Park, Yoon-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.3
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    • pp.82-95
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    • 2009
  • The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.

A Study on Imprinted Fabrics in Daragook -Focused on the Fabrics of the Okjeon Old Tomb- (다라국 고분군의 수착직물에 관한 연구 -옥전고분군을 중심으로-)

  • 박윤미;정복남
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.7
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    • pp.35-47
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    • 2001
  • This is a research about the fabrics attached to the remains of the Okjeon old tomb which was built around the early 5th century to the mid of the 6th century. Most of the remains have one kind of fabric attached to them, but there are cases where different sorts of fabrics are attached, where one kind is attached in layers, and there are also cases where the layer is made of different types of fabrics. Although they are made of warps and wefts with no twists, there can be an S twist on the weft or on both the warp and weft, and only one Z twist can be seen. There are 81 fabrics of plain weaved, one of transformed plain weaved and five 4-end complex gauze in these remains. The sparsest plain weaved fabric has the density of 7.4 strands/cm, while the most dense fabric has the density of 148.2$\times$129.1 strands/cm and 0.046$\times$0.061/mm thickness in thread. All the fabrics observed by SEM are hemp except one silk.

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The Excavated Costume of Jeon-Ui Lee Unearthed in Ue-Ryoung (宜寧 全義李氏墓 출토복식에 관한 고찰)

  • Park, Fil-Soon;Park, Yoon-Mee;Jeong, Bok-Nam
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.102-120
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    • 2005
  • Three Jang-Ue's and eleven drapery were investigated in the excavated costume in Ue-Ryeong, Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do. Three Jang-Ue's have three different colors. the length, the width, and the wide of quilting are different as well. The outer collar of a coat is a double collar while the inturned collar is a single collar. In case of Dark blue and Pink Jang-Ue. The large section of cloth forming the body of a Korean coat is getting narrower while the reinforcing cloth strip is getting wider as the time is passing by. All the three Jang-Ue's have the different handling methods of a attached to the top border of a Korean coat, and Pink Jang-Ue doesn't have a attached to the tip border of a Korean coat. The handling method of the hemline are all different. And the handling method of the cuffs are all different. The silk is main in the woven goods, partly hemp, mixed fabrics and cotton. Especially complex gauze with supplementary wefts that were found unusually in Cho-Sun Dynasty are very import to study the complex gauze. The fond relics of the Jeon-Ui Lee family reveal various formational methods and specific characters of the excavated costume. There fore these that bring the Jang-Ue shape and the textile's feature in Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do region, from 16th to 17th are very valuable.

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Types and Characteristics of Fabrics of Bokjang Objects Enshrined within Wooden Buddha Statues at the National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관 소장 목조불상 복장직물의 종류와 특성)

  • Hwang, Jinyoung;Park, Seungwon
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.18
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    • pp.35-50
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    • 2017
  • As part of the NMK's research project on wooden Buddha statues, four items which contained fabric among their bokjang objects(腹藏物) were investigated. Firstly, when classified by the method of weaving, two items made of ra (羅, a four-end complex gauze) silk and five of neung(綾, twill damask) silk from the Goryeo era were identified, and the satin fabrics showing characteristics of the Joseon period were classified as either dan(緞, satin damask) or sa(紗, simple gauze). In particular, the fabric of the bokjang objects enshrined within the gilt-bronze Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva(Deoksu 801) feature both early and late Joseon characteristics, suggesting that two enshrinements were performed(once in the fifteenth century and another in the seventeenth). Secondly, the patterns on the fabrics included flowers, treasures, fruits, plants with animals, and landscapes with clouds. Thirdly, patches of fabric were found that are assumed to be related with all cardinal directions according to their arrangement, albeit in small quantities.