• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.13-28
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• 2012

The objective of this research is to examine the fashion styles of Choe Seung-Hee (1911-1969), modern woman and dancer of Korea, through her life and activities. From such theoretical and empirical studies, three aesthetic characteristics of South Korea's modern woman Choe Seung-Hee's fashion styles could be deduced. Based on the three deduced styles of modern elegance, futuristic avant-garde and mystical Asian aesthetics, "Pearl of Asia" was selected as the main theme. The result is that the fashion styles of Choe Seung-Hee is not simply that of an individual modern woman and a dancer who lived in the early 20th century but is a meaningful symbol of Korea's modern women.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.925-940
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the major influence of postmodernism on 20th century fashion. Due to its characteristic traits like pluralism, indeterminacy, and immanence, it can be said that postmodernism in fashion manifests itself in an overlapped and duplicated style. The conceptual side has to do with such various 20th century thoughts as decanonization, deconstruction, populism, and in fashion it is presented as subcultural style, syncretic style, and post-feminist style. The stylistic side of postmodernism in fashion also has to do with fragmentation, hybridity, stress on performance and participation, carnivalization, deconstructive turn, and it is presented as hybrid expression, deconstructive technique, performance, and so on. In the latter part of the 20th century in which postmodernism blossoms in various fields, fashion also participates in the current of the times, together with the rapid stylistic turn, the co-existence of various trends, and the experimental or avant-garde new trials. However, it should be said that all of these tendencies mean not so much blurring of the boundaries between styles as developmental mixture of styles coming from juxtaposition after fully realizing the boundaries of contrast and combination.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.69-90
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to find the recognition of Korean image fashion design by U.K fashion specialists. U.K is one of the important countries in design field including fashion design since 1960. For this purpose, literature research and focus individual interview research were carried. First, through the researches precedent, it was found that a national image is related with it's design industry and what is Korean image fashion design, were studied. Second, for individual interviews to 13 U.K fashion specialists, who are teaching and researching in University that has postgraduate course over M.A and had industrial experiences from 7years to 22years, were progressed using open questions and visual image stimulus. The open questions were consisted with four parts : personal educational and industrial background, recognitions about oriental fashion, recognitions about Korean image and Korean fashion design before seeing the visual stimulus, recognition about Korean image fashion design and the characteristics of Korean after seeing the visual stimulus. The results are as follows; First, the 12 U.K specialists have recognized 'oriental fashion' is one of important fashion trends now a days. Japan and Japanese designers are recognized as a represented nation and designer in oriental fashion by them. Two of the specialists referred to need changing the term 'oriental' because the term has been used in the sights of western from colonial age and Japanese is not included the oriental any more. Secondly, 11 interviews have recognized nothing about the Korean national image some of them has negative image due to political situation in Korean Peninsula. However 2 interviews who had been Korea before has positive image. In the questions about Korean fashion and Korean fashion designers, 10 of 13 interviews have nothing and negative recognitions. So it was founded that Korean fashion design was recognized as a lower level by U. K. fashion specialists. Thirdly, in the questions about Korean fashion image and the design characteristics of Korean fashion after seeing the visual stimulus, the response was represented two directions. One is about over decorative image through ethnic design and the other is about simple image differ from Japanese. The 13 interviews felt the Korean Image fashion design such like traditional, decorative, opulent, flat cutting, fresh proportion, loose, layering, natural, simplicity, complicate, adventure, easy, stylish, soft, feminine, young image, adult sexy image. The images were analyzed five image groups : adult sexy image, adult ethnic image, natural image, young avant-garde image, young simple casual image. No one preferred the adult sexy image, adult ethnic image and natural image. However 10 interviews preferred young avant-garde group and 13 interviews preferred the young simple casual image. So this group can be understanded and useful informed as one of competitive power in global fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.151-170
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.12
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• pp.167-178
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the transformed fashion design based on the principles of visual design. Wucius Wong classified the kinds of transformation techniques as internal variation, external variation, extension, superimposition, transfiguration, dislocation, and distortion, which create and modify the shape. And the kinds of shape grammar for transformation are rule deletion, rule addition, and rule transformation, which are applied to interpretate for the change of wearing, the specialization & development of clothes, and the avant-garde styles in subculture groups. The formative meanings of the transformed fashion design are multi-transformation with complexity, formal beauty pretending confusion, and the basis for new trend.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.139-148
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• 2020

This study classifies black fashion-mania by each type based on their motivation for wearing black fashion as well as verifies how they express their style. To achieve the objectives of this study, the research questions are as follows. First, the images of black fashion-manias are classified. Second, each type of black fashion enthusiasts' motivations for wearing black fashion are verified. Last, black fashion-mania style are analyzed according to image types. In order to answer the research questions, a literature review and in-depth interviews (total 30 respondents (male 15, female 15) were executed. As a result, black fashion-manias use black fashion for self protection, their self-images such as charismatic professional image, modern sophisticated image, body-conscious sexy image, avant garde image which is an anti-fashion norm and unique image. The strong reason why black fashion-manias insist on black fashion is to 'look cooler'. The expressions could be articulated from sophisticated styling techniques that appear to be undecorated rather than an overt decorated styling. It is helpful information to plan black fashion products and to establish a design direction that requires an understanding of why black fashion is pursued, while promoting an understanding of groups of black fashion-mania.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.41-52
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• 2022

Since the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, the Russian public has been rapidly adapting to belated globalization, consistent with the ever-changing market economy. The purpose of this study was to investigate the social background and modern fashion of Russia after the collapse of the Soviet system and consider the characteristics of modern Russian fashion that have emerged in various ways amid the social changes. This study has significance in expanding the breadth of understanding the rapidly growing modern Russian fashion by considering modern Russian fashion and preparing the foundation while filling the need for research on the Russian fashion market, which has great potential. In the scope of the study, we investigated fashion from the post-2000s, when consumption began in earnest after Russia suffered a period of social and economic turmoil and switched to a liberalistic economy in 1991, to the present. In addition, we conducted an analysis focusing on the works of fashion designers who came from Russia and actively participated in work activities in Russia or abroad. Russian fashion designers reflect the unique cultural characteristics of Russia in their designs and incorporate Russian art into their designs to represent new fashion. Through continuous attempts for creative fashion design, modern Russian fashion will be developed in more diverse ways in the future. Thus, a follow-up study using various approaches to Russian fashion is needed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.1-18
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze and understand the approach of critical fashion by comprehending the appropriation of art as a sociocultural phenomenon that influences contemporary fashion. This study inquired into the relevant literature to explain the theoretical background behind critical fashion, and conducted a case study using exhibition catalogues, exhibition works, articles, fashion magazines, and fashion-related websites in order to examine cases of appropriation strategies. As a subversion of meaning by using an existing transposable object image to deliver an experience unlike the actual image, subversive appropriation in critical fashion takes existing things as they are and rearranges them with the purpose of subverting social values while having its subversive style of appropriation. Referring to a style that focuses on labelling the distance between the subject, that refers and that which is referred to, referential appropriation has been reprogramming existing things with an internal and introspective attitudes. In other words, from an exploitative style of appropriation aimed at expanding the meaning with found in objects by avant-garde fashion designers, to a subversive style of appropriation aimed at subverting meanings with transposable objects by conceptual fashion designers, there has been a change toward the referential style of appropriation aimed at expanding artistic forms with created objects critical fashion designers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.39-53
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• 2008

Today is a 'high concept' era in which consumers make sensible consumption that shares a sensible bond with a brand. Therefore, it is important to analyze consumers' aesthetic awareness; namely, fashion feeling in the fashion industry. This study conducted research into a fashion design planning process according to a fashion feeling focusing on computer graphics suited to the 21st century digital trend. First, the study classified a fashion feeling with eight senses including elegance, classic, modern, mannish, sporty, avant-garde, ethnic, and romantic feelings. Second, the study made an image map, color map, material map, and style map with Adobe Photoshop CS3 by dividing a fashion planning process with a computer graphics program. Also, the study made a flat illustration with Adobe Illustrator CS3. Third, the study proposed the image map, color map, material map, style map, fashion illustration and flat illustration in the design planning process under the theme of the aforementioned eight fashion feelings.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.104-121
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• 2024

This study examined the integration of futurist fashion in 4th-generation K-pop girl groups, focusing on their world views, music videos, and fashion images. The key aim was to identify and analyze distinctive elements of futurist fashion within K-pop. K-pop's global popularity is driven by dynamic music, choreography, and avant-garde fashion. Futurism, an art movement emphasizing technology and innovation, continues to influence contemporary fashion trends in K-pop. This study seeks to provide insights into symbolic meanings and expressions of futurist fashion in 4th generation K-pop girl groups. Groups such as Gidle, Aespa, IVE, LE SSERAFIM, and New Jeans were analyzed. Data were collected from their music videos, lyrics, and costumes, focusing on silhouette, color, material, and pattern. This study highlights the significant role of futurist fashion in K-pop, showing how 4th-generation girl groups lead in integrating these elements. This research provides valuable insights for understanding and further exploring the evolution of K-pop fashion.