• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.137-150
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• 1993

Sonia Delaunay was among the group of avant-garde artists drawn to Paris in the early part of this century who were exploring concepts of art that were felt to capture best the speed and me chanization of the modern world. She believed modernity-and her own attitude toward modern life-could be expressed through the primacy of color in art the dynamic inter-play of its dissonances and harmonies. The metap-hysical implications Delauny felt inherent in this idea made it applicable to all surfaces, and she was compelled to transform the world around her ac-cording to it. She set up a dialogue between fine art and everyday objects and accompplished the transition from representation work to her color theory through her investigation in embroidery and collage. This study is for Sonia Delaunay's field fo work which is close to fine and applied arts. To study Sonia Delaunay's work, I can find some points of her fashion designs. First, Simultaneous, which is to use collage tec-henics such as simultaneous and meterial to com-binate of variety meterial. Seound, Durability which is restoration of mor-dern fashion, Eventhough her work is 60 years old still it is foward to the furture. Imitation of textile which is devdloped by her, always looks new and fresh. Third, The elements of Folklore. Her elements of Russia, it appears on variety colors. Sepecially contemporary cloths has elements of folklore, we should use it and made it to suituble to contem-porary fashion of our country. For the furture, we need more study how to apply pictorial meterial of art into fashion design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.7-16
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• 2011

Maximalism is the code which has a power to interpret a fashion phenomenon expressed complexly and variously in the multicultural society. In the 21st century, maximalism which reappeared is not the expression by a method only. It is presenting the experimental design for the new pursuit through the mixture such as expansion, splendor, variety, decoration, distortion of configuration or transformation, and composition. Therefore, this study aims at analyzing expression of fashion design by four types(expansion, decoration, mixture, non-structure) materializing a feature of maximalism expressed in the domestic and foreign collection works from 2005 to 2010. The research results are as follows. 1. Expansion: It was showed artificial, formative, unique, and odd teatures through the expansion of the upper half of the body, the lower half of the body, and both of them. 2. Decoration: It was showed the actual decoration considering functionality and practicality and the decoration emphasizing and unique character and featuring domination and emphasis. 3. Mixture: It was showed through the mixture of the contrary textiles or the different sex image. 4. Non-structure: It showed the non-structure of the avant-garde trend and non-structure through decoration, detail, adjustment direction of a dress.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.13-29
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyze eroticism shown in the fashion of Lady Gaga's music video. This study methods taken theoretical consideration and then was classified eroticism based on previous studies and was analyzed costumes from Lady Gaga's music video. The results of this study were as follows: Avant-garde style exaggerates shoulders, hips, a hat or uses metal and glossy material, tape, leather and it was expressed into emphasizing or baldly exposing breast. Primitive style was expressed in ethnic style and animal patterns, lingerie look with drastic, bald exposing fashion. Romantic style was expressed using rococo style costume, frill, pleats, decoration and was produces eroticism with see-through look or costume fitting to the body. Sportive style expresses a healthier and erotic image using tight costume in yellow, blue and black while exposing belly and legs. Janus-faced style was expressed by dressing up like a man or using the method of attachment and exposure in clergy's costume. Humorous style was expressed by emphasizing parts of body or costume itself. As examined in the above, Lady Gaga was expressed various eroticism images in her music video and is builds her own sexually appealing.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.25-32
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze formative features of women shoes, to develop distinctive shoes design for coming fashion trend. the methods of this study are documentary research and case study. In the theoretical study, this study has catched the origin of shoes and the changes of shoes design of each era. for the study of formative features of women shoes in 1990's, 215 kinds of pictures have been selected from in professional shoes magazines. The results of analysis are as follow. Woman shoes categorized the design factors into shape, material, decoration. Reformational shape that reconstructs old shape of shoes by comtemporary aesthetic, shape in that dual images were mixed, re-created shape that was constructed through the reconstruction of structures and shapes of shoes. Material image was strengthened by varying patterns of unburned calf, leopard and zebra. Avant-garde was appeared by using naturalistic material to represent natural beauty or using merry, daring material. Post-modern tendency was appeared like using brassiere strap instead of back strap or using round string in elegant shoes.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권4호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2006

This study examines the esthetic characteristics in the haute couture work of Jean Paul Gaultier, who represents the fashion in France and is famous for avant-garde and experimental works through dismantling, from the first haute couture collection in 1997 to the present. The materials for the study are the precedent studies, the related literature, and the photographs of the works and the interview articles in domestic and international fashion journals. Three characteristics are revealed in his works. First of all, he provided a transcendental fashion different from the established wearing or ornamental ways by dismantling the dichotomies between male and female, time and space, and beauty and ugliness. Second, he reflected the decadent beauty recognized as representing women's sexual and provocative expression based on exposure, suppression, perversion, and grotesque manifestations by shaping an esthetic value within a different point of view. Finally, he was characterized as being transcendental with an eclectic fusion of intercultural differences or dynamics, items in costume formation, time and space, and eastern and western. This transcendental expression, Gaultier's desire for creativeness, can be an ideal characterizing this era.

• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.96-111
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• 2012

This study is to analyze fashion phenomenon according to the concept of the characteristics of freewheeling to explain the de-constructive, eclectic, avant-garde tendencies in Contemporary Fashion. This study is to elicit the aesthetic characteristics through 400 pieces of visual data analysis from 2001S/S to 2011F/W that have the characteristics of freewheeling, nontechnical experiments do away with the classical form. The oriental ideas include the thoughts of different tastes that break the stereotypes according to the Western values and the pursuit of unconventional beauty. These also insist that everything in the world including human-being, nature and creation is not divided into two equal parts, and even beauty and ugliness originated from one. This study is to find the possibility of interpreting oriental aesthetics with open concepts that transcends the boundaries of full availability, unlike the Western values that accommodate the relative concept of the pursuit of diversity. Therefore, integrated and systematic approaches of oriental aesthetics that place much value on the coexistence of antithetic concepts are needed to understand the ambiguity of complexity and diversity in Contemporary fashion design.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.63-79
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• 1999

The essence of Feminism is to establish the women＇s subjecthood as representing women＇s sexual characteristic and emerging from the fixed idea about women in our androcentric society. Feminism has been developed in various stages : the homogeneous theory which emphasized the similarity between men and women, the heterogeneous theory which persisted in he difference between men and women and underscored womanhood as an unique quality, androgynous theory which insisted on the common of two sexes since 1980＇s. The purpose of the thesis is to discuss the correlation between the feminism and the fashion, to examine its influence on shaping the contemporary fashion, and to infer what the women＇s fashion be like in the coming 21st century. The result of the thesis is as follows : First, the Mannish Look had been developed from the masculinization of female clothing by borrowing the style of women from that of men clothes since 1970＇s. Second, the Glamor Look has been stressed as the feminism began to swing toward which emphasized the difference between men and women, and women＇s sexual characteristics from the late 1970＇s. Third, from the late 19th century, the Fetish Look is still employed in various ways by the avant-garde designers, which impowered to increase the visualization of sex. Fourth, the Androgynous Look was born, androgynous image and neutral image, by the influence of the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical aspect from the middle 1980＇s.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.380-392
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate a comparison between method of depaysement of Surrealism and modern costume. Surrealism was based on Freud's theory of uncon\ulcornersciousness and Hegelian dialectic. I found that its method of expression and inspiration have a continuous influence on a field of fashion through preceding study. Surrealism stimulated Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) to make creative and innovative costume which created a sensatio.i1 the world of fashion in 1930. And it have been influence on modern fashion. From this point of view, I examined surrealistic painter of Rene Magritte (1898-1967) to use shocking method of depaysement through literature and photographes. And I made researches on Paris London collcetions from 1989 to 1994 in the cause of analysis a comparison with depaysement in painting of R. Magritte. As the result of analysising main works of R.Magritte according classification of Suzi Gabric (an art critic), he was expressive of usual object in various of depaysement. I also proved that modern fashion which was new shocking, innovative and avant-garde presented unconsciousness through these expression of depaysement with common subject. In consequence, the method of expression of surrealism have been a durable influence on modern costume.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.50-65
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• 2009

The main purpose of this study is to identify characteristics of shapes of John Galliano's Dior Collection as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison during $1996{\sim}2007$ after he showed himself in Paris in 1990. This study was based on the analyses of John Galliano's design trends of his collections, the pictures of his works in Christian Dior's collection, real works, documents and fashion magazines, newspapers, mass media, internet sites and other visual materials. The study identified characteristics of shapes in Dior Collection until 07/08 F/W as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison, and the design trends before his post-Paris period. Followings are the conclusions of the study. First, Galliano was open to any types of cultures as a liberalist, and also respectful to the tradition or principles. He led the fashion business with new trends by exploring both sides. Second, he succeeded in commercializing his avant-garde feature. Especially, His creativity changed the image of Christian Dior to younger and more casual one. Third, born in England and worked in French, he always took both English (Victorian Style) and French(Napoleon era, Femme Fatal style) sides, and showed excellent formulation that the times needed by combining topical Chinese, Japanese, Egyptian styles.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.102-114
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• 2000

The works of the Futurism were developed along with manifestos and statement in publishing. Futurist aesthetic and ideological agenda on futurist fashion displayed in manifestos on clothes. Futurist fashion propagated in consummate Futurist style through the written manifesto. The Futurists anticipated much of modern fashion phenomenon. In Futurist Men's Clothing, men's clothing is aggressive, agile, dynamic, simple and comfortable, hygienic, gay, luminous, volatile, asymmetric and variable. In Futurist Manifesto on Woman's Clothing, woman is now a principal agent of revolt, a walking synthesis of the audacious, performance-oriented aesthetic of the futurist universe. For Futurist woman's clothing they claimed ingenuity, daring, and economy. The Futurist Manifesto of Italian Hat was continued with their provocative style and radical ambition. Their innovation will rescue a lagging Italian expert and restore the Italian male to his former Iatin Vigor. Speed, dynamic, utility, and funtionality are the main characters. In Futurist Manifesto of Italian Cravat, Futurist cravat is called Anti-cravatta, which is anti-traditional style and made of unconventional materials. In general, the Futurist argued for clothes that promoted simple and functionality. These Futurist fashion project were invention of the new style, avant-garde style, in daily wear and were realized for the renewal of taste in clothing design as a modernizing factors.