• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.341-347
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• 2008

Recently, it has been widely recognized that water-front and coastal vegetations may have great value in supporting fisheries, protecting from wave attack, stabilizing the sea bed and maintaining good scenery. Hydrodynamic factors playa major role in the functions of water quality and ecosystems. However, the studies on numerical and analytical process of wave propagation are few and far behind compared to those on the hydrodynamic roles of water-front vegetations. In this study, in order to express wave attenuation into water-front vegetation, a numerical model based on the unsteady mild slope equation is developed. This result is compared with an analytical model for describing the wave attenuation by assumed simple long wave condition. Based on both the analytical and numerical results, the physical properties of the wave attenuation are examined under various wave, geometric and vegetation conditions. Through comparisons between the analytical and numerical results, the effects of the vegetation properties, wave properties and model parameters such as the momentum exchange coefficient have been clarified.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.51-58
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• 2003

The magnitude of evanescent modes in terms of dynamics it investigated in case that the transformation of water waves is predicted by the linear wave theory. For the waves propagating over two steps, the eigenfunction expansion method is used to predict the amplitudes of reflected and transmitted waves by the component of evanescent modes as well as propagating modes. Then. the relative importance of evanescent modes to the propagating modes is investigated. The numerical experiments find that the evanescent modes are pronounced at the relative water depth of k$_1$h$_1$＝0.11$\pi$ and the water depth ratio of h$_2$/h$_1$ close to zero.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.819-830
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• 2016

Hydrodynamic characteristics of wave propagation through density stratification have not been identified in details. So this study conducted a numerical simulation using LES-WASS-3D ver. 2.0 for analysis of density current due to water temperature and salinity in order to analyze hydraulic characteristics under wave action in a two-layer density stratified fluid. For the validity and effectiveness of numerical wave tank used, it was compared and analyzed with the experiment to show waveform based on $3^{rd}$-order Stoke wave theory at the internal of a density stratification. Using the results obtained from numerical simulation, the surface and internal wave heights are reduced as the wave propagates in a two-layer density stratified water. And the surface or internal wave attenuation became more serious as the vorticities were increased by the velocity difference of wave propagation due to the upper-lower density difference around the interface of a density stratification. As well, the surface and internal wave attenuations became more serious with higher density difference and depth ratio between upper and lower layers when the wave propagates through a density stratification.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.29 no.10 s.106
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• pp.853-858
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• 2005

Recently, various novel numerical models based on Navier-Stokes equation have been developed for calculating wave motions in the sea with coastal or ocean structures. Among those models, Volume Of Fluid (VOF) method might be the most popular one, and it has been used for numerical simulations of wave motions including complicated phenomena of wave breakings. VOF method, however, needs enormous computation time and large computational storage memories in general, thus it is practically difficult to use this method for calculations in the case of random waves because long and stable computation (e.g for more than 100 significant wave periods) is required to obtain statistically meaningful results. On the other hand if the wave motion is potential motion, Boundary Element Method (BEM), which is a much faster and more accurate method than VOF method, can be effectively used. The aim of this study is to develop a new efficient model applicable to calculations of wave motion and/or wave-structure interactions under random waves. To achieve this, a strictly combined BEM-VOF model has been developed by making the best use of both methods' merits; VOF method is used in a restricted fluid domain around a structure where complicated phenomena of wave breakings may exist, and BEM is used in the other domains far from the disturbance where the wave motion may be assumed to be potential. The verification of the model was performed with numerical results for Stokes' 5th order wave propagation and a random wave propagation.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.18-24
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• 2007

The environmental value of coastal vegetation has been widely recognized. Coastal vegetation such as reed forests and seaweed performs several useful functions, including maintaining water quality, supporting fish (and, thus, fisheries), protecting beaches and land from wave attack, stabilizing sea beds and providing scenic value. However, studies on the physical and numerical process of wave propagation, sediment transport and bathymetric change are few and far between compared to those on the hydrodynamic roles of coastal vegetation. In general, vegetation flourishing along the coastal areas attenuates the incident waves through momentum exchange between stagnated water mass in the vegetated area and rapid mass in the un-vegetated area. This study develops a numerical model for describing the wave attenuation and sediment transport in a wave channel in a vegetation area. By comparing these results, the effects of vegetation properties, wave properties and model parameters are clarified.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 1989

Theoretical studies have been made to analyze combined refraction diffraction of the wind waves propagating on a large scale current in water of varying depth. The governing equation for monochromatic waves was derived through splitting a mild slope equation into two equations. A numerical model is developed using finite difference scheme which is computationally very efficient for modelling large area. Numerical examples concerning the interactions between waves and rip currents over a gentle slope are presented, in which the current effects on the wave diffraction in the caustic region are closely examined.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.249-253
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• 2003

심해로부터 해안으로 전파해오는 파랑은 해저지형 또는 구조물 등의 영향을 받아 반사, 쇄파 등과 같은 변형을 겪게 되며, 이와 같은 파랑은 연안침식 및 해안구조물의 안전과 설계에 영향을 미친다. 수중방파제(submerged breakwater)는 입사하는 파랑에너지를 대규모로 감소시켜 연안침식을 방지할 뿐만 아니라 방파제를 수중에 건설함으로써 해역환경의 개선을 가능하게 한다. 또한, Bragg반사를 이용하여 수중방파제를 건설할 경우, 연안의 불필요한 침식 및 퇴적현상을 최소화할 수 있을 뿐만 아니라 입사파에 의해 발생하는 해안구조물의 손상을 사전에 방지 할 수 있다. 아울러, 항만의 정온도를 향상시키는데 효과적으로 이용할 수 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.212-221
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• 2016

In this study, characteristics of swell-like high waves in the East Sea were analyzed using observed wave data and predicted meteorological data from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). And, the wave prediction system using the data from the NOAA has been established. Furthermore, the applicability of the system has been verified by comparing the predicted results with the corresponding observed data. For some case, there were two times of wave height increase and the second increase occurred in a calm weather condition on the coast which might cause casualties. The direction of wave energy propagation was estimated from observed wave data in February, 2008. Through comparison between the direction of wave energy propagation and the meteorological data, it turns out that the second increase of waves is originated from the seas between Russia and Japan which is far from the East Sea.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.6B
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• pp.379-385
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• 2012

Recent development of computing power and theoretical advances in computational fluid dynamics have made possible numerical simulations of water waves with full Navier-Stokes equations. In this study, an internal wave maker using the mass source function approach was combined with the level set finite element method for generation of waves. The model is first applied to the two-dimensional linear wave generation and propagation. Then, it is applied to the three-dimensional simulation of the same problem. To effectively utilize computational resources and enhance the speed of execution, parallel algorithms are developed and applied for the three-dimensional problem. The results of numerical simulations are compared with theoretical values and good agreements are observed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.12-22
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• 1994

Time evolution of linear water waves on a constant depth generated by a disturbance is analyzed by asymptotic methods; stationary phase, steepest descents and leading wave approximation. In order to verify the derived formulae of surface displacements for 1-D and 2-D waves. surface displacements are calculated and plotted from both the formulae and a numerical integration. The existing results for surface displacements are verified in which the leading amplitude of 1-D waves during the evolution decays as f- T/B, the rest of the wavetrain as t$^{-1}$ 2/ and the rest of the wavetrain of 2-D waves as t-1. But it is shown that the leading amplitude of 2-D waves decays as t 5/6 which is different from Kajiura's result t$^{-4}$ 3/.