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Development of Method to Predict Source Region of Swell-Like High Waves in the East Sea

동해안 너울성 고파의 발생역 추정법 개발

  • Ahn, Suk Jin (Research Institute, GeoSystem Research Corporation) ;
  • Lee, Changhoon (Department of Civil & Environmental Engineering, Sejong University) ;
  • Kim, Shin Woong (Research Institute, GeoSystem Research Corporation) ;
  • Jeong, Weon-Mu (Coastal and Environmental Engineering Division, Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology)
  • 안석진 ((주)지오시스템리서치 부설연구소) ;
  • 이창훈 (세종대학교 토목환경공학과) ;
  • 김신웅 ((주)지오시스템리서치 부설연구소) ;
  • 정원무 (한국해양과학기술원 연안공학연구본부)
  • Received : 2016.06.29
  • Accepted : 2016.08.17
  • Published : 2016.08.31

Abstract

In this study, characteristics of swell-like high waves in the East Sea were analyzed using observed wave data and predicted meteorological data from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). And, the wave prediction system using the data from the NOAA has been established. Furthermore, the applicability of the system has been verified by comparing the predicted results with the corresponding observed data. For some case, there were two times of wave height increase and the second increase occurred in a calm weather condition on the coast which might cause casualties. The direction of wave energy propagation was estimated from observed wave data in February, 2008. Through comparison between the direction of wave energy propagation and the meteorological data, it turns out that the second increase of waves is originated from the seas between Russia and Japan which is far from the East Sea.

본 연구에서는 동해안에 고파가 내습한 시점을 대상으로 관측 파랑자료와 미국 국립해양대기청(NOAA)에서 추산한 기상 예측자료를 통합 분석하였으며, 기상예측자료를 이용한 동해안 파랑예측시스템을 구축하였다. 또한, 파랑 예측결과를 관측자료와 비교하여 적용성을 확인하였다. 동해안 연안에는 2회 파고가 증가하고 2차 파고 증가 시 연안 기상조건은 양호한 경우도 있어 피해가 우려된다. 2008년 2월에 관측된 파랑 관측자료를 이용하여 고파의 전파방향을 추정하였으며, 기상자료와 비교를 통해 2번째 증가시기 파랑의 발생역이 동해 연안에서 멀리 떨어진 러시아와 일본 사이 해역임을 확인하였다.

Keywords

References

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