• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.62-67
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• 2010

Swells occurred on the coast of the East Sea on February 24, 2008 caused a loss of three lives and also damaged several west coasts of Japan. The recent increase of swell intensity with number of accidents demands more accurate forecasting of swells in terms of time and location. The swells occurred in February 2008 are hindcasted using SWAN model to examine the accuracy of the model for future forecasting. The model results are compared with ReWW3 data as well as measurement wave data and specially, wave spectrum is analysed by comparing with observed spectrum at two wave stations located in the east coast of Korea. The SWAN model shows similar results with observation data in terms of significant wave heights and swell arrival time but the shapes of wave spectrum are different between model and in-situ measurement data. For further improvement of swell forecasting, more comparison and analysis with observed wave spectrum is necessary and wave directional spectrum data are required to study on the characteristics of swells in the East Sea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.148-156
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• 2008

WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify this model, two numerical simulations for hydraulic experiments of Chawla et al.(1998) and Beji and Battjes(1993) are performed. The computed results show good agreements with measured ones. To identify its applicability to real sea, it is applied to storm wave modelling for typhoon Maemi. Numerical results compared with measured ones at Geoje, Busan and Ulsan show reasonable wave height estimations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.12-22
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• 1994

Time evolution of linear water waves on a constant depth generated by a disturbance is analyzed by asymptotic methods; stationary phase, steepest descents and leading wave approximation. In order to verify the derived formulae of surface displacements for 1-D and 2-D waves. surface displacements are calculated and plotted from both the formulae and a numerical integration. The existing results for surface displacements are verified in which the leading amplitude of 1-D waves during the evolution decays as f- T/B, the rest of the wavetrain as t$^{-1}$ 2/ and the rest of the wavetrain of 2-D waves as t-1. But it is shown that the leading amplitude of 2-D waves decays as t 5/6 which is different from Kajiura's result t$^{-4}$ 3/.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.189-194
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• 2001

The present study describes the Bragg reflection of monochromatic water waves propagating over a train of doubly-sinusoidally varying topographies. A numerical model based on the boundary element method is firstly verified by calculating reflection and transmission coefficients of waves over a trench. Calculated solutions are compared with those of the eigenfunction expansion method. The model is then used to simulated reflection of monochromatic water waves propagating over doubly-sinusoidally varying bottom topographies. Obtained reflection coefficients are compared with those of available laboratory measurements, those of the eigenfunction expansion method and the extended mild-slope equation. A reasonable agreement is shown.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.155-164
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• 1987

A new design method of rubble mound structures that includes the considerations of stability and wave control is proposed. Using the method, design of structures that reduce the wave reflection and run-up and increase the rubble stability is assured under the given wave conditions. The new design formula is developed so that the allowable prcentage of damage and the wave grouping effects on rubble stability are also considered in design. For this a new definition of the mean run-sum is made. Finally, the new method is applied for the design of uniform and composite slope rubble mound structures and the significant advantages are found.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.170-175
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• 1991

In order to calculate reflection coefficients of surface waves due to underwater obstacles, the hybrid boundary integral equation method is used. Numerical results based on the linear element are verified to the exact solutions for a flat bottom. Reflection coefficient and transmission coefficients for a step are compared to Young's results and the results by EFEM (Kirby et al., 1987), in which reflection coefficients decrease to zero as the periods of incident waves decrease. Reflection coefficients for a sinusiodal hump located on a constant depth increase due to the interaction between humps.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2023.05a
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• pp.222-222
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• 2023

오픈 소스 유체역학 소프트웨어인 OpenFOAM은 다양한 유체 흐름에 적용 가능한 프로그램들로 구성되어 있다. 이 중 interFoam은 밀도가 다른 두 유체(i.e., 물, 공기) 간의 경계를 추적하는 기법을 기반으로 한 프로그램으로, 파랑의 거동 모의에 주로 쓰이고 있다. 파생형 프로그램으로는 동격자(dynamic mesh) 및 중첩 격자 기법(overset grid method)을 interFoam에 추가한 overInterDyMFoam이 있다. 두 기법을 사용하면 각각 여러 영역에서 유체흐름과 다중 물체 간의 상호작용을 효율적으로 모의할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 overInterDyMFoam을 사용하여 두 개 수문의 개방 움직임을 구현하고 생성된 파랑이 포말대(swash zone)에 접근하였을 때의 흐름 특성을 조사하였다. 수치모형실험 결과 수문 개방 속도가 댐 붕괴 파랑 흐름 전파속도에 영향을 미치는 사실을 발견하였다. 또한, 처오름과 처내림의 상호작용에 의한 난류 운동 특성을 조사하기 위해 수문 개방시간 간격을 0초~3초로 설정하였다. 수치모형실험 결과는 수리모형실험의 수면 변동 시계열과 속도 시계열 결과와 비교하여 모형의 정확성이 검증되었다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2011.05a
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• pp.43-43
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• 2011

최근 컴퓨터 기술의 발전으로 수심방향으로 완전한 운동방정식인 Navier-Stokes 방정식을 이용하는 3차원 수치모형에 의한 연구가 기초과학 분야인 수학에서부터 공학은 물론 의학 분야까지 광범위하게 진행되고 있다. 3차원 수치모형을 이용한 연구는 이론적으로 매우 우수하긴 하나 정확도 높은 결과를 얻기 위해서는 매우 조밀한 격자를 필요로 하기 때문에 아직까지 막대한 계산시간이 필요하다는 단점이 있으나 근래의 컴퓨터 기술이 엄청난 속도로 발전하고 있는 점을 감안할 때 적용 가능성은 계속 높아지고 있다. 이러한 흐름에 따라 해안공학 분야에서도 3차원 수치모형을 이용한 다양한 연구가 시도되고 있다. 복잡한 해안구조물로 인한 파랑변형 및 구조물의 안전성 등을 검토할 때 기존의 평면 2차원 수치모형이나 연직 2차원 수치모형으로는 재현이 힘들어 상대적으로 수치모형을 활용한 연구의 효용성이 낮았던 것에 비해 3차원 수치모형을 활용할 경우 복잡한 지형 및 구조물의 형상을 재현할 수 있기 때문에 좀 더 유용하게 사용될 수 있다. 한편, 파랑변형을 다루는 수치모형실험을 수행할 때 외부조파를 사용할 경우 구조물이나 지형에 의해 반사되어 나온 파랑이 조파지점에 도달할 때 실험영역으로 재 반사되는 문제가 발생한다. 이를 해결하기 위해 내부조파기법의 개발에 대한 연구가 필수적이었으며, 2차원 수치모형을 중심으로 그 연구가 매우 활발하게 진행되어 왔으나 Navier-Stokes 방정식 모형의 경우 상대적으로 연구가 미흡하였다. 본 연구에서는 3차원 Navier-Stokes 방정식 모형에서 내부조파기법을 도입하여 목표 파랑을 조파하였다. 수치모형은 Navier-Stokes 방정식을 엇갈림 격자체계에서 계산하는 유한차분모형으로 자유수면 추적에는 2차 정확도의 VOF(volume-of-fluid) 기법을 사용한다. 수치모형실험 결과를 일정한 수심을 전파하는 정현파의 해석해와 비교하였으며, 수치모형실험 결과가 비교적 정확하게 목표 파랑을 조파할 수 있음을 검증하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.350-360
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• 2016

In order to investigate characteristics of waves and currents varying in space in the Haeundae coast in winter, numerical simulations by using a 2-D spectral wave model(SWAN) and 2-DH hydrodynamic model(Delft3D) were carried out in this study. The results of numerical simulations were validated with the field data collected at several different locations in the study area in February, 2014. From the numerical simulations, it was found that waves and currents were significantly influenced in terms of direction and magnitude by bottom topography characterized by straggling rock crops covered with sea grasses. The coupling of SWAN and Delft3D models also revealed that alongshore currents directing from the east to the west were developed in the nearshore, due to the influence of larger waves with the main incident direction from the east.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.333-342
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• 2012

We studied the characteristics of spatial distribution of global wave height and carried out the modelsensitivity test by changing the input field, model resolution and physical factor (effective wind factor) since the spatial and temporal resolution in wind wave forecasting is one of most important factors. Comparisons among the different cases, and also between model, buoy and satellite data have been made. As a results of the wind-wave model run using the high resolution wind field, the bias of significant wave height showed the positive tendency and the Root-Mean Square Error(RMSE) was a bit decreased based on the comparison with buoy data. When the model resolution was changed to higher, the bias and RMSE was increased, and as the effective wind factor was smaller than default value(= 1.4) the bias and RMSE showed also decreasing pattern.