• 복식
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• 제66권2호
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• pp.134-147
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• 2016

The mainstay of modern fashion design has always been Western costumes. Though Asian costumes do get featured in collections at times, most instances are just instances of the western culture showing curiosity toward non-mainstream costumes. Until recently, Japan, which has been the most active in cultural exchanges, has been the main recipient of these curiosities, and has been used as the representative style and culture of East Asia. What needs to be let known is that Korea has its own costume style and culture, which have been developed according to its tradition and beliefs. Hanbok, which is the representative traditional costume in Korea, has existed since the beginning of the Kochosun dynasties. I started this study to figure out the design source of Hanbok's shape and develop it into a modern costume. In the fashion industry, "Mandarin Collar" and "Kimono Sleeve" are common terms, And I hope that words like 'Korean Collar' and 'Hanbok Sleeve' will one day become a household term. Hanbok contains Korea image. And its shape is formed depending on how Koreans have been treating all sorts of objects or things for many years. If my study can identify and express the unique Korean way of pattern and considering clothes, which is clearly different from those of China and Japan, I will be able to establish a concept of 'Korean style', that people of the world could come to recognize.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.169-179
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• 2009

In order to preserve the Korean traditional gold foil, to develop as Korean traditional textile art by utilizing in modem fashion for textile industry, and to examine utility of the material which can be used in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion terms, Textiles Applied Korean Traditional Gold Foil were developed. The results are as follows: First, important factors of the gold foil image should be extracted as materials quality, color and pattern, and modem and practical qualities should be proceeded when developing the image of the gold foil into modem quality material. Second, since gloss of fabric developed by a traditional method is somewhat strong, uniformity being a little bit low for hand-made manufacturing, and practical quality is low for high cost, deletion of the gold foil, etc. So it hasn't been appropriate for studying modem fashion material. Third, Jacquard weave has been examined as the most appropriate method in order to present the gold foil image among a number of textile manufacturing techniques Fourth, considering factors deciding the image of the gold foil and a sense of beauty of modem society, gloss of the foil has been lessened by expressing pattern to lower traditional quality and primary color. Fifth, pattern motives of developed materials have been extracted tram traditional gold foil patterns, and materials have been chosen considering of concepts and motives, and dragon pattern, crane pattern and bat pattern, Sixth, wearing, pin-up works, bed linen, fabrics for chairs, ties, bags, shoes, umbrellas, etc. are produced with the developed materials, and practical use and modern quality have been examined. The result is very satisfactory.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.252-265
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• 2010

Most luxury fashion brands have a strong brand identity and the product design characteristics of a brand are critical factors that influence brand identity. The design of products influence brand identity and play an important role in the choice by consumers in which brand to purchase. This study investigates the impact design characteristics of luxury brands on brand attitudes as well as purchase intentions in the examination of the differences in the impact influence by product category and consumer characteristics. The product design of brands was evaluated and measured by innovative and traditional characteristics. The product categories were divided into apparel, bags, shoes, and accessories. The consumer characteristics used in this study are fashion involvement, age, income, and the amount of money used for purchasing fashion products. Sample brands, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermes, Burberry, and Gucci, were extracted from the Intel-brand's Luxury Brand Ranking 2008 and pilot tested for appropriateness. The data collected from 120 luxury consumers and 92 samples were statistically analyzed with SPSS 15.0, reliability test, factor analysis, ANOVA, frequency test, regression, and t-test. The findings are as follow. First, luxury brands were divided into two groups by innovative design characteristics and traditional design characteristics; innovative design characteristics show a significant influence on brand attitude and purchase intention. Second, only fashion related behavior factors among consumer characteristics became moderators when design characteristics influenced brand attitude and purchase intention. Third, the differences in purchase intention affected by design characteristics were found in bags, shoes, and accessories category. It is necessary for luxury brands to focus on innovative design characteristics and to specify the different needs of consumers through fashion related behavioral factors. This research will be useful to luxury brands in designing products and planning marketing strategies by offering specific information for luxury brand consumers.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.565-577
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• 1999

In this world of globalism, achieving the winning position in the competitive international market is essential in the area of fashion industry. For this reason, we should accomplish this task by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modern fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional style. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the fashion design works of the active Korean fashion designer, Sul Yoon-Hyung, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modern fashion design with the traditional motives. In order to study this research subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the textile motives used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, Bazaar, Vogue, Marie Claire, ELLE, WWD, and Fashion Today during the last seven years(1993-1999). The collected research data, 68 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the categories of Korean traditional motives they were adapted from, the application techniques, and the aesthetic characteristics. As a result of the study, it was found that Sul Yoon-Hyung has adapted different kinds of Korean traditional motives including motives borrowed from the nature such as flowers and animals, geometrical forms, and Chinese letters with different specific symbolic meanings for each motif and many different techniques were utilized to apply these motives. It was apparent to note that the Korean traditional motives were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modern sense.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.63-72
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• 2012

In this study, Characteristics of colors on Chinese traditional costume in Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing Dynasty were compared. And general colors of Chinese traditional costume and the viewpoint of them were considered. The purpose of this study were to apt colors of Chinese traditional costumes to the sensory appetite of modern people for new things, and make the recreation inspired by new senses be applied into the fashion industry effectively. The results were as followed : Firstly, colors distribution of 5 dynasties were different. In the Tang, R(red) was highest, YR(yellow red) and Y(yellow) followed. In the Song, YR was highest, Y and R followed and PB(purple blue) was increased, In the Yuan, R, YR, PB, B were concentrated at low rates, and other colors were increased, In the Ming, Y, R and B were concentrated at low rates orderly, and other colors were increased, In the Qing, PB was highest and Y, R, YR, B, P(purple) were increased. Secondly, tons distribution of 5 dynasties were different. In the Tang, L(light) was highest, P(pale) and Lgr(light grayish) followed. In the Song, P(pale) was highest, Lgr, Gr(grayish) and Dl(dull) followed In the Yuan, Dp(deep) was highest, P and Lgr followed, and other tones were increased, In the Ming, S(strong) was highest, DI and V(vivid) followed. Thirdly, The general colors of 5 dynasty were R, YR, Y, B, PB colors with vivid, deep and light tones. Forth, the viewpoint of color on Chinese traditional costume was based on the Yin-Yang and the Five Elements theory. Based on results of this study, the successive researches will be carried out about the unique colors of each nation and application traditional colors to modern fashion industry in order to the unique cultural sense.

• 복식
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• 제67권2호
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• pp.52-67
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• 2017

This is the precedent study on the modern fashion design using Korean emotions, and its aim is to study the expressions in the modern fashion based on 'Jeong-Jung-Dong' idea from Korean dancing, which implicates the Korean emotion deeply among the artworks and give essence similar to the clothing. 'Jeong-Jung-Dong', a unique idea, in the Korean traditional dancing is the philosophy that involve the paradox expression, 'Movement in Silence,' which represented the emotion of Korean dancing for a long time. The main characteristics deducted in 'Jeong-Jung-Dong' were 1) the incomplete and complete by atypical, 2) the beauty of temperance by symbolism, and 3) amusing mutual relationship. Upon the analysis results of previous studies on the expressions in the modern fashion with 'Jeong-Jung-Dong', they demonstrated the atypical expressed by metaphor, symbolic expression through margin, and mutual relational table by harmony. The analysis of modern fashion expression by 'Jeong-Jung-Dong', which is a philosophical idea in the Korean dancing, could highlight the new way of looking at the clothing and systemize the theory on the Korean emotion to seek the effective expression of artistic features for the culture together with introduction of our unique emotion in the creative design process by understanding of humanitarian and philosophical ideologies to be utilized in the future Fashion Design.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.23-27
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• 2019

우리나라는 오천 년 역사를 이어오는 동안 우수한 문화자산을 축적해 왔으면서도 문화를 상품화하는 일을 소홀히 하였다. 그 결과 세계인이 인정하는 기술이 있으면서도 세계에 내놓을 만한 훌륭한 문화상품이 없다. 따라서 전통문화 속의 독특한 소재를 활용하여 현대적인 감각으로 재 디자인하여 상품화하는 것이 필요하다. 천연염색에 의한 직물은 채도가 낮으므로 특별한 배색조화를 하지 않아도 잘 어울리며, 자연스럽고 편안한 느낌을 준다. 따라서 천연염색으로 얻어진 직물들은 문화상품 개발을 위하여 매우 적절한 소재라고 생각된다. 또한 한지는 질기고 중후하며 우아한 느낌을 지니고 있어서 그 자체로 예술의 한 분야를 구축할 수 있는 우수한 소재라고 할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 세계적으로 뛰어난 한지를 소재로 한 한지직물을 활용하여, 쪽, 홍화, 황벽, 그리고 자근으로 천연 염색하였다. 그 염색 직물을 활용하여 두 대의 양산과 카드 지갑의 문화상품을 만들어 제시하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.267-276
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• 2019

This study develops 3D-printed-garment collections for a fashion show presentation. A design concept using traditional patterns that consisted of garments regarding the limitation of the printing technology was investigated in order to develop the collection. The structures of the connecting joints of the textile parts which could be easily and sturdily interconnected were invented. Wearability as garments that could be naturally worn on the human body were sought. As a result, four 3D-printed-garments were developed. The 1st garment composed of objects based on a 'Yeon-Dang-Cho'-pattern was constructed as a geometric robe style using a FDM 3D printer and transparent TPU filaments. The 2nd and 3rd 3D-printed-garments composed of an object based on a 'Boe-Sang-Hwa'-pattern was constructed as a distorted one-piece exaggerating the silhouettes of shoulders and waist parts as well as a straight asymmetric tunic style that used the same printer and material as the 1st garment. The last garment composed of an object based on a 'Boe-Sang-Hwa'-pattern printed using a SLA 3D printer and flexible-liquid-resin was constructed attaching the objects on the fabric material by the hot-press machine. The four developed garments were presented in the opening fashion show of 'the 6th International 3D-printing Korea Expo'. This study provides a basic case for related studies to adapt 3D-printing technology in textile pattern development of garment construction.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.331-347
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.