• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1378-1385
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• 2001

Textile The purpose of this research is to develop the design for activation of women s hanbok focused on functionality and convenience as well as on keeping the traditional beauty, and then to produce them. As a result of these explorations, I have reached conclusions as follows. first, the transformation of jackets and skirts are mainly limited to partial change in elements of the dress design-width and length of a jacket string and the upper strip on the outside of a jacket, change in width, and granting of symbolic meaning. Second, aesthetic features and formative beauty of traditional hanbok that the harmonization of mainstream colors and highlighting colors and curved silhouettes evoke were mental by products created as our people wished to become friendly to and to harmonize with nature. Third, grounded upon study of lines form and survey on brands, I have developed designs that maintain hanbok’superiority and at the same time incorporate functionality and convenience to fit modern life. I believe that the outcome of these of these explorations will contribute greatly to carrying the traditional beauty of Korean dresses to the maximun, and to developing and popularizing functional and practical living-fitted Korean dresses.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.5-19
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• 1998

This study aims to analyze the shortening tendency of women's hanbok chogori (upper part of the Korean traditional dress) in the latter period of Chosun in three respects-socially, economically, and aesthetically. First, from the social point of riew, sexual role and social starus were examined. The strict sexual roles between males and females made the latter inferior to the former. The relatively lower sexual role had the woman look receptive and passive and wear a short and narrow kind of chogori. Also, the confusion of the social status system weakened the function of the costumes to differentiate social classes and, consequently, almost all classes wore short chogori. Second, the economic progress in the wake of the commerce-centered positivism at that time helped raise the economic status of the middle and low classes. As a result, with their social and economic status elevated, they tried to wear somewhat luxurious chogori. Third, aesthetically speaking, erotically-look-ing and much-shortened chogori derived from the weakened male-centered Confucian tra-ditional ethics in conflict with the humani-tarian positivism.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.76-98
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• 2023

국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》(덕수6375)에 묘사된 남녀 등장인물의 복식을 분석하고 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 추정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 주인공 노신랑은 <전안례도>와 <교배례도>에서는 평소 관원으로 착용하던 흑단령을 착용하였다. 그 외 <헌수례도>와 <접빈도>, <중뢰연도>에서는 패영 없는 자립에 옥색 포, 홍색 세조대를 둘렀다. 기럭아범은 자립에 귀 옆에 묶은 패영을 달고 흉배를 부착한 무문 흑단령을 착용하였다. 성인 남자 자손과 하객들은 도포 등 당시의 대표적인 포 종류를 착용하였는데 특히 무관으로 추정되는 인물들은 철릭, 직령을 착용하고 붉은 색 띠와 청색 계통의 띠를 신분에 맞추어 착용하였다. 징씨(徵氏) 등 안내자는 중치막과 홍단령을 착용하였으며 어린 동자들과 시동(侍童)은 중치막을 착용하였다. 술을 따르고 음식을 나르는 총각들은 땋은 머리에 소창의(小氅衣)를 입고 성인들은 전립(氈笠)에 소창의를 착용하였다. 군영 소속의 세악수들은 소색 소창의에 흑색 전복, 그리고 허리에 남색 포대 등 군복을 착용하였다. 둘째, 노신부는 <교배례도>에서는 거두미와 초록원삼 차림을 하였고 <헌수연도>에서는 남치마·옥색저고리 차림이 확인되었다. 여자 자손들은 어여머리에 비녀와 반자, 진주댕기 등의 칠보장식을 하였고 다양한 색상의 저고리에 남색과 홍색, 옥색 등의 치마를 입었다. 남치마에 초록 장옷을 입은 부인도 확인되었다. 홍치마에 초록색 회장저고리를 입은 <교배례도>의 동녀(童女) 4명은 낭자머리에 비녀 꽂고 도다익 댕기를 길게 드리웠으며 칠보족두리를 썼다. 비자(婢子)들은 어여머리에 가리마를 썼으며 양반 부인들과 유사한 치마·저고리를 착용하였으나 색상이 연했고 치마의 길이가 짧았으며 치마의 부풀림 정도가 약하였다. 기녀는 양반 부인과 비슷한 모습이었으나 색상이 덜 화려하였으며 어여머리에는 칠보장식이 없었다. 셋째, 주인공의 자립 착용, 철릭과 직령을 입은 하객들, 군영 소속 세악수 참여 등에 근거하여 회혼례의 주인공이 병조나 군영과 관련된 인물이었을 가능성을 제시하였으며 군영 악대의 전복의 소매 길이와 잠화 사용, 어여머리의 형태와 댕기, 저고리의 길이와 치마의 부풀린 형태 등에 근거하여 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 1760년대~1780년대로 추정하였다.

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.21-30
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• 1997

Chogori the basic upper garment of korea costume occupies an important role in tra-ditional dressing and continues to be in use to the present days. Of course there has been changes in the length and line of Chogori with the flow of time based on the Ancient Yoo. This is a study of the 14 parts of Chgori based on statistical analysis by computing the practical measuements. Here the statistical analysis is a objective and quantitative of the stylistic changes in Chogori with time. In this study from the data the Mean and Standard deviation has been evaluated and periodic change is shown by graph to test the periodic change T-test Regressional analysis Index analysis has been used. The results are as follows: 1. The length of clothing has changed with time except the sleeve length. Here the length of clothing means all the other measurements ex-cept the sleeve Thus while the measurements of sleeve length has been uniquely unchanged the other measurements have influenced each other. 2. Generally the form of Chogori had the tendency towards smallness in the 19th cen-tury. But it tended to get larger in the 20th century. 3. Compared to other periods the mode of 19th and 20th century Chogori was widely ac-cepted as the Standard deviation of that period was very narrow. 4. The results seen from the regressional analysis of the Cho-sun period woman's Chogori satisfy the t-value and R-squared and thus support the regression formula presump-tion. 5. From the index analysis it is revealed that with decrease in the armhole measurement sleeve measurement and neckband; relatively same decrease in the wrist measurement; and very marked decrease in the sideline measurement.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권3호
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• pp.11-21
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• 2007

So far, the graphics of Korean clothing have focused on maintenance of forms without specific improvement. In particular, in the archetypal design of a Jeogori, ambiguous standards on the overlapping of left and right collars and collar strips cause problems in the teaching and teaming of Korean traditional clothing. As a result, the graphics of men's Durumagis based on a Korean Jeogori have the same problems as Jeogoris and the connection between them has not been sufficiently studied. Design of "Moo" in respect to graphics of men's Durumagis has its own calculation equation or measures, but they can not be generalized. This study therefore considers the existing graphics of men's Durumagis or approaches of Moo in different angles by reviewing the connection between Durumagis and Jeogoris. Therefore, archetypal forms of Durumagis are designed with a radius of a circle using one's height and the girth of one's chest, which contributes to symmetry of the collars and teaming effects through scientific graphics of "Moo." It is further expected that can be mass-produced through archetypal design of overcoats and graphics of "Moo" of Durumagis that can be standardized as well as connection between graphics of Jeogoris and Jeogoris.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.106-114
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• 2006

This research aims to identify the recent changes in construction, design, and technical vocabularies between North and South Korea of the Korean woman's top(Jeogori), which is a main part of her traditional costume(Hanbok). After Korea War, Korea was divided into two countries(the division), and there was little communication between the two until 1972(the interexchange). Thus, this study will compare two time periods: 1953-1972 and 1972 to recent times. Hanbok construction books published in both Koreas are evaluated here to see what similarities and differences existed during these two periods. Women in the North continued to wear their traditional costume(renamed the Chosunot in the North) as daily clothing, but women in the South began saving the Hanbok only for parties and ceremonies. As the North Korean government controlled its peoples dress and continued to make changes, the North kept developing new technical vocabularies, but the South continued to use the same terms fur the Hanbok. From the end of the 1990s, the Chosunot had become more and more similar to the Hanbok in colors, shapes, and materials.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.139-147
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• 2008

This study aims to investigate and analyze sewing methods according to the shape of the inner collar among women's jeogories in order to understand such sewing techniques, which has emerged during modern Korea, and has utilized diversly for the shape of the jeogori's inner collar and as part of the inner collar. The study was conducted on relics possessed between 1900 to 1990, or 515 pieces of jeogories. Jeogories were classified into single-layered and double-layered jeogories according to the shape of their composition. Inner collar shapes of jeogories have also been categorized. It was found that single-layered jeogories comprise 49 inner collars with shapes identical to those of the outer collars. Double-layered jeogories comprise of the following three types: 43 pieces of godae close, 18 pieces in which the inner collar of the outer bodice are cut without a connecting line and the inner collar of the godae and inner bodice are suspended, and 405 pieces in which the share of the inner collar is identical to that of the outer collar. From the shapes of inner collars mentioned above, the following sewing methods have been derived: 1. To sew the inner collar of single-layered jeogories, a seaming technique had been used. 2. Among the inner collars of a double-layered jeogori, godae close was sewn with only a short part of the godae by using a lining, and then finished with overage and blind stitches. Godae close was a covenient way to attach inner collars, and also saved much time. 3. Inner collars with shapes identical to the outer collar are divided into two groups: those with outer collars cut out fellowing the cloth without seam and shifted towards the linings and used as an inner collar, and those with outer collars made of outer linings and inner collar of inner linings. To sew the collar, paste and needlework had been employed, where the methods of needlework were divided into blind stitch, overage stitch, and catch stitch. In sewing with paste, only godae was blind stitched or overage stitched, and the remainder had been painted with paste or the collar had been finished with heated soldering iron after the entire inner collar was painted with paste.

• 감성과학
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.33-44
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• 2022

최근 들어 한옥마을과 같은 전통문화를 즐길 수 있는 장소에서 한복 대여를 통해 남녀노소 누구나 쉽게 한복을 체험할 수 있게 되었다. 또한 한복을 착용하는 데서 그치지 않고 인증샷을 찍어 SNS에 공유함으로써 한복 체험이 선풍적인 인기를 얻게 되었다. 하지만 한옥마을과 같은 특정한 장소에서 할 수 있는 한복 체험을 제외하고는 일상생활에서 한복의 대중화는 어려운 실정이다. 따라서 한복을 일상복으로 대중화하기 위해서는 한복의 편의성뿐만 아니라 한복에서 느껴지는 감성적인 만족까지 반영하여 한복을 디자인을 하는 것이 중요하다. 본 연구는 선행연구를 통해 추출한 한복에서 느끼는 소비자의 감성을 표현하기 위한 감성 어휘 28개를 활용하여 한복 유형별로 느껴지는 소비자의 감성을 7점 리커드 척도로 측정하였다. 그리고 한복 유형별로 '느껴진다'에 해당하는 5점 이상의 점수를 기록한 감성 어휘와 감성 카테고리를 분석하였다. 또한 한복 유형별로 성별에 따른 감성 카테고리의 평균차이를 검증하였으며, 그 결과 호감 카테고리에서만 남녀 간의 유의한 차이가 있었다. 마지막으로 한복 유형을 전통 한복(배냇저고리, 색동저고리, 성인 전통 한복, 전통 혼례복)과 현대 한복(아동 생활 한복, 여자 생활 한복, 남자 생활 한복)으로 구분하여 감성 카테고리의 평균차이를 검증한 결과 6개의 감성 카테고리인 '유쾌감, 심미감, 조화감, 신선감, 호감, 안정감'에서 전통한복과 현대한복 간의 유의한 차이가 있었다. 본 연구에서 도출한 한복 유형별로 느껴지는 감성어휘에 대한 분석 결과는 소비자에게 보다 감성적인 만족을 제공하는데 도움이 되리라 기대된다.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.61-77
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women's Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Belong's observing system for 'Apparel-Body Construct'. Belong's framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word -'Closed or Open', 'Whole or Par', 'Planar Separation or Planar integration'. 'Flat or Rounded', and 'Determinate or Indeterminate'. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women's Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is 'Variably Closed', 'Part' and 'Rounded', whereas that in modern is 'Open', 'Whole' and 'Flat' Women's Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of 'Plat' strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women's Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of 'Planar Seperation' and 'Determinate'. Women's Hanbok belongs to 'Planar Seperation', because the effect cognized to figure and ground. can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face. Jeuori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more. it can be classified into 'Determinate'. because it use textiles which have no pattern un it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.597-606
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• 1998

The purposes of the study were 1) to evaluate the visual image of colored Korean traditional dress for woman 2) to analyze the colors and, color combinations effect on the image perception using gestalt theory. The research method was a quasi-experimental with a between subjects design. The experimental materials developed for the study were a set of stimuli and a response scale. The stimuli was consisted of 17 drawings of females wearing Korean tradinational dress, by using CAD simulation. A response scale consisted of semantic differential scales. The subjects were 1138 undergraduate students of Taejon city, Chungnam province and Chungbuk province. Their responses to the semantic differential scales were analyzed using factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, 1-test. Results were as follows; 1) The image of the stimulus was consisted of the 4 different dimensions.(sociability, evaluation, visibility, attractiveness) 2) Clothing colors had significant effects on image perception of the evaluation dimension, visibility dimension and attractiveness dimension in the mono-color set. The blue showed the most positive image on the evaluation dimension, and the yellow and the gray showed negative image on the same dimension. The yellow showed the most salient image and the gray showed the least salient image on the visibility dimension. The red showed the most attractive image and the green showed the least attractive image on the attractiveness dimension. 3) In hi-color set stimulus, the perceived image was influenced by color combinations. The yellow blouse-the red skirt set showed the most sociable image on the sociability dimension. The blue blouse-the green skirt set showed the most positive image on the evaluation dimension. The yellow blouse-the red skirt set showed the most salient image and the blue blouse-the green skirt set showed the least salient image on the visibility dimension. And the red blouse-the yellow skirt set showed the most attractive image on the attractiveness dimension. On conclusion the visual image of Korean traditional dress wearer was affected by dress colors and color combinations.