• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.6 s.96
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• pp.51-66
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• 2005

Fashion is to emphasize the importance of total coordination in creating an image. Therefore, modern fashion is not the conformation of fixed beauty but it exist in the expressed form of the variety and the completion according to the individual's personality for the self image of the clothes, the hair and make-up, the accessories and the like. This study Is aimed at reviewing one of the tendency of modern fashion coordination and the characteristics of John Gallianos fashion work and there upon, analizing the characteristics of John Galliano's fashion show, who is one of the most leading fashion designer, by dividing them Into four categories in large: 1) The maximum effect of fashion image by make-up and hair style 2) Adventurous fashion coordination with daring decoration 3) Fascinating fashion coordination Harmonized with color 4) Enlargement in the concept of fashion coordination by experimental way of clothing

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.25-35
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• 1998

This thesis is a study of Kas ya, robes of buddhist monk, which is having peculiarity among human clothes. I kept my attention mainly on the symbolism of the color of Kas ya. To elucidate this, I chose the principle of T -chi and Yin-yang and Wu-shing as a frame-work of interpretation. In the first place, the original meaning of Kas ya mean a name of peculiar color. The concrete names of the color are color of persimmons juice, brown, yellow tinged with red, radish brown, non-primary color etc. The main motive to dye three robes of buddhist monk from white or primary color to the color of Kas ya was to differentiate buddhist monks from heathen or laymen. Therefore, as luxurious and primary colored cloths was donated to the buddhist monks, they are necessary to discolor them. Accordingly. they established 'non-primary color' as well-mate one for a ascetic. The non-primary color is called discolored color' as a result of discoloring primary colors. The discolored color is a synonym of Kas ya and the process of discoloring is necessary for making robes of buddhist monk. Secondly, discoloring means to mash five primary color. That is say, the process of discoloring means to return five primary colors back to 'profoundity·abstruseness·obscurity, namely darkness' as the source of them. Darkness as a condition amalgamated and not appeared all materials is the source and at the same time the terminus of all colors. Therefore, color of Kas ya symbolizes 'profound color' as the ultimate meaning of discoloring. Thirdly, discoloring garments of buddhist monk symbolize to destroy evil passions and haughtiness arising in ascetic's mind as well as means don't attach to the shaped materials'. Fourthly, discoloring means to return 'color'. namely 'all kinds of shaped material' to the inherent nature. Process of discoloring means to reture to the empty. nya. nya essentially do not make any colors, but over and over again come into being and become extinct as becoming colors. R pa, by one time Yin and the other time Yang'. R pa, color is a metaplasia of nya and nya is discoloring one of all colors. Then, discoloring means R pa is nya, R pa is nya at the same time and Because this is another expression of Dharma the original meaning of Kas ya symbolize true robes. Consequently, Kas ya means truth and beyond time and space do not be changed and conserve the color of the first till now.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.139-161
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• 2002

This study investigates the characteristics of Nordic sweaters works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) development of Nordic sweaters, 2) the characteristics of Nordic sweaters industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns, 4) the symbolic meaning of the designs in the Nordic sweaters and patterns. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. It was also developed in Scandinavian regions which lead the fashion in modern days. Scandinavian knitting techniques have been diffused into the east coast of England and Northern Europe by Vikings. 2. Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. 1) Norway ; Simple and geometric Norwegian patterns are classified into three groups of motifs: (a) the motifs of cross, diamond, X, and swastika (equation omitted). (b) the motifs of human figures, animals and birds, (c) floral motifs (especially eight-petal roses). Their use of color is also simple, and is limited to more than two colors. (2) Sweden ; Swedish patterns are colorful and geometric. They are characterized by features such as brocade, complex embroidery, and contrast of red and black colors. They also show Guernsey patterns. Initials and production years were knitted in sweaters which have different patterns in their trunks and sleeves. 3) Denmark ; The Danish pattern is the purl stitch knitted against the stockinette stitch. The technique is used to copy woven damask motifs. The patterns are seen most clearly when they are knit with smooth yarn. The Faeroe sweaters are the representative work of Danish knitting. Faeroe knitting, incorporates stranded pattern and is knit in the round, either with circular needles. 4) Finland ; Finnish patterns are similar to Norwegian patterns. Finnish knitted work show very colorful, variety and free-flowing geometric patterns. 5) Iceland ; Icelandic knitting shows original ribbon pattern. Lope sweater is the representative work. 3. The traditional knitting patterns not only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns. In short, the knitted work in the Nordic sweaters served the function of admiring the beauty of nature and symbolizing various meanings. The unique designs and colors of the knitted work reflected the characteristics of the culture those works belonged to. This study also turns our attention to the issue of how the traditional colors and designs of the knitted work can contribute to the development of modern designs, and by doing so, if makes us realize the importance of knitted works in modern society.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.99-116
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to examine the state of scrub wearing among scrub uniforms medical staff. The results of the research is the following. First, As for the state of scrub uniforms, they wore scrubs only while they gave medical treatment and took care of routine work. Regarding the design of their current scrubs, type 1 was dominant, and the most common color was dark sky blue. Second, Concerning considerations for scrub design, they answered that scrubs should be designed to give no inconvenience during job performance. As for the image, they placed the most importance in a clean image due to hygiene. In relation to preference for color, pattern and materials, they had the most preference for dark blue, no pattern and materials that would not easily be contaminated. Third, As to preference for the length of the top, they were most fond of hip length, and short sleeves were their favorite length of sleeve. Concerning the design of the front and the back of the top, they had a liking for a box style with no straight cutting line. As for the design of the neckline, hem and pocket of the top, they had the most preference for round neckline, square bottom and round patch pocket respectively. Fourth, when the design preference of the respondents was analyzed, there were a difference between the men and the women in preference for neckline design. The women had a liking for round neck, whereas the men were fond of V neck. And the women showed a higher preference for rubber waistband than the men for the waist design of the pants. No gender differences were found in preference for color, pattern and the length of the top.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.613-625
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• 2007

Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1009-1020
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• 2009

This study aims to express the androgynous image via shirts as a fashion item. Shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. As for the theoretical background, the study was reviewed previous studies of books, thesis, a series of publication, and the Internet sites on this topic. Through a careful analysis of these previous studies, it designed and made shirts that inspired by androgynous image. Conclusions of this study are as follows: First, the study found that meanings of symbolism in clothing continue to change, not fixed at all, depending on historic and cultural environments, and so does symbolism for femininity and masculinity of clothing. Second, shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. Third, two patters were used for the work in this study in order to emphasize its form, along with mono color white and stripe patterns. For materials, cotton and blend as a most basic material for a shirt were used with unique variations in the form. Fourth, decorative details or trimming such as ribbon tying methods, shirring, attaching in layers, and irregular pleading widely used for women's wear were applied, and silhouettes with strong drape feelings were used to add feminine feature to men' shirts, in an effort to propose a fashion design of the androgynous look. Fifth, clothes proposed in this study are different from feminine clothing item blouse, because they are androgynous shirts mixing masculinity and femininity. Stiff pads were used in collars and cuffs characteristics of men's traditional shirts to maintain masculinity of a shirt, and design was developed by adding feminine decorative elements, which is different from women's blouse.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.997-1005
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to measure the sensibility and preference of American consumers for domestically-manufactured cotton fabrics through 7-points scale questionnaires and the 4-dimensions and 8-axes system. The key words included such images as masculine-feminine, new-old, casual-classic, and ambiguous-orderly. The images of cotton fabrics were classified through a cluster analysis. This research also included an investigation of relationship between sensibilities for cotton fabrics and their physical characteristics. The sensibilities of cotton fabrics were classified into 4 groups: 'feminine sensibility,' 'masculine sensibility,' 'new sensibility,' and 'casual sensibility.' This result represents that American consumers' sensibility is simpler than Koreans'. The order of preference was 'feminine sensibility', 'masculine sensibility', 'new sensibility', and 'casual sensibility.' The sensibilities of cotton fabrics were explained significantly by stiffness, weight, weft density, value, and chroma. Specifically, those were more influenced by color characteristics such as value, chroma, and hue than by physical characteristics. We should be able to tell a difference in the reaction of a trading country's consumers and domestic consumers to domestically-manufactured cotton fabrics through comparing this research with the previous work(Shin & Lee, 2002). Additionally, we will be able to establish a basic strategy for successfully advancing Korean fabrics into the American domestic textile industry. In this way we can expect to increase the competitive power of our domestic clothes brands.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 1981

Silk textile finishing has been studied for many years by many workers in order to meet more utilities for various endusers. Such studies, however, could not be successful because any natural fibers are hardly change their natures by artificial treating methods. Textile finishing is of course to improve the mechandise qualities and the poor natures of silk so that it may be available as the best textile fiber in the world. Sometimes, famous trade marked textile plays more power than its quality in the silk market, nevertheless, this should be over line of research activities. Meantime, the silk demand has been also transferred from ladies stocking to other clothes since nylon or other synthetic fibers were developed. That is why, the extension of silk demand should be developed by various research works. Specially, silk is known as difficult textile to handle it during washing or ironing process which happened to depress down the silk usage for house wives. In order to solve such problems, the reporter has been worked for many years and now, he believes that he has developed a proper finishing method to coversuch problems. The developed finishing method may be said to eligible with economical aspect and shorten the dry duration after water washing in half against normal silk textile without harming the specific silk nature. As all of us know, silk fiber starts to denature since it was spinned by silkworm and the fiber is formed as overlapped "S" type curves during its concooning process. After it is made as raw silk or sericin silk, it shows as straight line form, but it changes in to waved form in case refining or degumming process in order return to its original spinned form. Such nature is continued during its textile form and ends with hard ironing nature than other textile fibers. Mean while, the silk fiber keeps to continue its denaturing and this is iniciated by repeat of washing and drying which takes many years to reach its final stage, The reporter has found the iniciating denature of silk by his finishing process, with out heat, decreasing the swollen nature which ended with shortening the drying duration after wash. Each washing was carried out by soaking the previously weighed sample in cold water for one hour, then pressed the sample for ten minutes to eliminate its free water component before weighing with same condition. According to this, the treated silk showed much denaturing after the finishing, but the standard silk progressed the denaturing by and by with the repeat of washing and drying, finally reached the same swollen degree of treated silk, Such treating result explains that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other hand, standard silk may reach to such condition by the time of worn out clothes after repeat of washing and drying for many years while the clothes will be no more useful. The decreased swelling nature has brought about the drying period in half against standard silk after all. Not only the tests of tenacity and elongation but also crease resistance recovery, stiffness and shrinkage tests were carried out after each washing and drying which he has found better result on the treated silk textile against the standard silk. The most important thing was to keep the textile feeling of silk by such finishing work before improve any poor nature of silk. The general silk has a nature to absorb smoke or dirt from its surrounding air and reaches to dirty color shade upon such exposure, but the treated one has improved such nature because of its artificial denaturing, another word, it keeps clean longer than the normal silk. Many previous finishing works could improve some specific nature of silk, but it happened to deprave other important natures. The reporters work is, however, specialized to improve the silk to be useful as Wash and Wear Silk without harming its standard natures. So far, this work happened to be a overall innovative finishing method of silk textile.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.106-118
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• 2009

This research is about the changes in the images of Bond and Bond Girl in '007' Series. And it examined through the social background of England from 1960s to 2000s and the costume in the film. The results were as follows: As the era of young fashion was opened after 1960, there was a big change, but Bond was expressed as a hero who had strong male chauvinism of the English aristocratic circles. However, after 1990s, he wore comfortable clothes and he underwent all sorts of hardships. On the other hand, Bond Girl had the image of a sexual target. However, after 1990s, she had sharp appearance and smart brain. Besides, she had professional ideas of a given work and she was changed into a healthy image. Second, Bond's job was an English secrete agent, but Bond Girl had no particular job in 1960s. In 1980s, various professional jobs appeared and in 1990s and 2000s, the professional job which was directly related with Bond's duties appeared. Third, Bond's upper class image was expressed by tuxedo, suit, black, gray, navy, beige, brown, and ivory. His hair was 2:8 parting or Dandy all black style produced his dignified and neat image. After 1990s, he often had casual dress, which created a comfortable image. Bond Girl was expressed feminine style by bikini, underwear, long dress, sky-blue, violet, black, simple costume. After 1990s, she wore a suite, one-piece, or a combat uniform, which showed her professionalism. especially Bond Girl's red dress was used as a psychological color to express temptation, enemy, and betray.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.391-398
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• 2007

Ginkgo leaves, which have been known as medical materials, were selected as new natural dyes in this study, in which it was examined whether they have the function of UV-blocker or not. Cotton, linen & Hanji(Korean traditional paper) were dyed with Ginkgo. Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were selected as mordants. UV-blocking rate of dyed samples was measured after dyeing and mordant treatment. The results of this study are as follows. First, most surface color of dyed samples was yellow except that Hanji mordanted with Cu was yellowish red. Second, dyeing repetition had positive correlations with K/S values of cotton ($r=.\;758^{**}$), linen ($r=.\;500^*$) and Hanji ($r=.\;819^{**}$), because K/S values were increased according to dyeing repetition. Third, solar UV-blocking rates had positive correlations with dyeing repetitions (p<0.01), because UV-blocking rates had increased according to dyeing repetition. Fourth, UV-blocking ability of Hanji was highest among samples, as UV-blocking rates of cotton and linen dyed after 3 dyeing repetition were up to 93%, Hanji's values were up to 98%. Therefore, it was proven that Ginkgo extracts used in this experiment as dyestuff have excellent dyeing ability and high UV-blocking ability. It is hoped that this work will lead to further research to confirm the physiological effects when human wear the clothes made from Hanji.