• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.324-330
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is on the meaning and variety about gender expressed in modern fashion. The results are as follows ; First, the typical masculine gender was authority, discretion as a result of heteropatriarchy focused on the western reason. It was conservative and the symbolic image type of the meaning excluded masculine sexual expression. Dress and its ornament was expressed as the style of straight silhouette, dark color, rough and stiff material. Second, the typical feminine gender was the symbolic image type of a mother and a wife defined relatively by man as a result of western heteropatriarchy and the image type which men regarded women as sexual objects. Dress and its ornament was expressed as the style of silhouette which let bodily curve out, light color, soft material. The most typical item is dress and suit. Third, androgyny has been described as the feminie gender of androgynous, which shows masculine image as the effect of feminism and social success of professional women. Dress and its ornament is expressed as the style of business suit, the symple of typical man's one. The masculine gender of androgynous is showed man's suit as silhouette that let bodily curve out, light color, exposure and soft material, which is the symbol of feminine dress, Fourth, unisex is the area of dress and its ornament used the sexless symbol which there has been no gender more because of the spread of sports and diffusion of leisure in life style.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.767-777
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• 2003

This study defines attributes of the Korean costume culture, focussed on hair, shoes and accessories which express sex-roles, encapsulated in the term, “be like...”. A group of 362 male and female university students from Seoul and Gyeonggi area was surveyed for the study. The statistical analysis of SPSS 10.0 was applied for analyzing the data, and the significant variances were reviewed by the basic statistics and t-test. The results are as follows; First, short hair is perceived as the typical hair style that symbolizes male, both from male and female university students. Hair colors in warm color such as brown, wine, purple, lemon and orange, and the style of hair such as bobbed, long, and perm are perceived as definite clues that symbolized female. Second, when it concerns the types of shoes, both male and female university students cited oxford as the typical clue that symbolizes male, whereas pumps and sandal were cited for female. Third, in terms of types of accessories, both male and female university students perceived necklace, earring, bracelet, hair pin and band, scarf, and muffler as very feminine. Among these, hair pin and band, and scarf are evaluated as the typical clues that signify the role of females. Necktie is perceived as the typical clue that signify male role.

• 한국언론정보학보
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• 제58권
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• pp.201-221
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• 2012

멜로드라마는 주로 여성 취향의 장르로 간주되었기 때문에 남성들의 멜로드라마 시청경험은 거의 주목받지 못했다. 이 연구는 젠더와 장르의 관계라는 측면에서 이들이 멜로드라마를 시청하게 된 배경과 시청방식을 살펴보았으며, 이를 위해 <웃어야 동해야>를 시청하는 중년 남성을 대상으로 심층인터뷰를 실시했다. 이들은 시청과정을 통해 자신에 내재한 여성성을 확인하게 되는데 이에 대응하기 위해서 다양한 전략을 구사하고 있는 것으로 나타났다. 구체적으로는 드라마 속의 허구적 현실에서 즐거움을 찾으면서도 이를 여성과 차별화하려 하고, 여성성을 수용하되 다양한 방식으로 합리화하려 하며, 자신의 취향이 여성적이라 불리기를 꺼려하며, 감정에 대한 자기 검열이나 멜로드라마 취향의 평가절하를 통해 거리두기를 시도하며, 드라마시청의 취향을 일상적 실천과 분리하는 등의 양상을 보여준다. 이 탐색적인 연구를 통해 중년 남성들이 멜로드라마 시청과정에서 어떻게 장르와 젠더 경계를 넘나들면서 전통적인 젠더 구분을 재구성하고 있으며, 그 과정에서 전통적인 남성 정체성이 어떻게 검열기제로 작동하는지를 확인할 수 있었다.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제13권12호
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• pp.604-613
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• 2013

멜로장르는 그동안의 선행연구를 살펴 볼 때 여타의 장르보다 여성상 설정에 있어 전형적인 여성상이 재현 된다는 논의가 있어 왔다. 그러나 이러한 선행연구에는 양적인 방법의 연구가 없어 멜로장르의 보수성과 전형성에 대해 입증했다고 보기 어렵다. 본 연구는 TV드라마 멜로장르 여성상의 전형성에 대해서 양적인 연구방법과 전체 장르 여성상과의 비교분석을 사용하여 검증 하고자 하였다. 연구 결과 TV 멜로장르 여성주인공은 전체장르 여성상에 비해 그 변화상이 적었다. 전체 장르 여성상이 외모에 있어 비여성성이 증가하였고 타인과의 관계가 능동적으로 변한 반면 멜로장르에서는 전형적인 여성적 외모의 여성과 수동적인 여성상이 1992년부터 2012년까지 유지되고 있었다. 여성이 남성의 애인과 아내의 자격으로 남성의 자본을 공유하던 체제에서 여성적인 아름다운 외모는 남성의 선택 가능성을 높이는 여성의 육체자본으로 활용 되었다. 그러나 여성의 경제력이 향상된 현재에도 멜로장르에서는 유독 전형적인 여성상이 유지되고 있다. 여성시청자가 주를 이루는 멜로장르에서 나타나는 이러한 여성상의 전형성은 현대 여성들의 양가적이고 모순적인 욕망을 대변하는 것으로 보여 진다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.1-19
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• 1989

Dress is an expressive art form which involves a human activity; utilizes techniques under sufficient technical control that results in the production of typical forms on the basis of aesthetic standards. This study was conducted to clarify a relationship of Impressionism and it's image in dress-Bustle style. Artists such as Manet, Renoir, Cezanne, Gogh, Gauguin, and Rodin were reviewed. Impressionism was a method of painting that consists in repoducing an impression exactly as it is experienced from contemplation nature. The Impressionists used a technique of separate, fragmented brush strokes and pure prismatic colore, aiming at rendering changing effects of light. Fashion designers such as Charles Worth, Givency, Cardin, Ungaro, and Lacroix were examined. Throughout their fashions, they focused on the naturalism of feminine and seductive image-the touch of Vegetable Venus depicted on the paintings of Manet and Renoir; expressed "unmitigated sexiness" in various forms of Bustle sytle creating a seductive beauty, revealing body contour, breast and legs, and using a fragmented motif and flowers with vivid color.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.337-347
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to figure out consumer's recognition on brand's peculiar style on Korean contemporary women's apparel brand. The contemporary women's apparel brands show advanced and stylish merchandise at better price points. This segment of the Korean ready-to-wear market has been growing fast in last decades. Four contemporary women's apparel brands(I, K, M, and T) were participated in this study. The data(n=216) were collected with questionnaire survey at 24 apparel retail shops in metro Seoul area. The questionnaire measured the consumers' recognition on each brand's peculiar style. The subjects evaluated each brand's typical silhouette, materials, and style image. The results of the survey showed that the style image factors were 'stylish', 'simple', 'casual', 'feminine', and 'classic'. The style image of each brand was differentiated from others. The brand T had classic image, the brand K had simple and casual image, brand M had stylistic image, and the brand I had feminine image. The features of materials that used at the four brands were not very different by the brands. They used the high valued materials. The common features of the materials were 'smooth', 'thin' and 'light weight.'

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.11-25
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• 2008

John William Waterhouse (1849-1917) is a painter renown for his romantic beautiful femme fatale images in the late 19th century in England. The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion in Waterhouse's femme fatale images. Waterhouse displays the devilism of femme fatale by the symbols of a wicked woman. He emphasized how wicked she is by means of water such as lake, river, and sea as well as symbols associated with demons such as forest, cave, naked woman, long hair, a monster-headed woman looking like an animal, water lily, and garden. On the other hand, he illustrates the woman's style as an image of a typical feminine beauty. Expressing naturally a fine-curved, immature girl's body with marvel-like white and clear skin in a kneeling down or crouching passive rose and depicting it as an innocent and fragile feminine image, he created a passive and lovely image of a young girl. With her eminent beauty and sex appeals, she lured men into danger. Words such as evil, women, and death had been used in describing her as femme fatale to emphasize her wickedness as well as to deliver the meaning across from the inside and to the outside. They also described her as a type of woman with body posture and fashion corresponding to the sexual ideology during the Victorian Age. His description of this fashion image was to show that femme fatale's fashion, which represents attraction and fatality, does not necessarily translate to an active fashion style that emphasizes sensuality. It also tends to minimize resistance and feelings of being threatened. Therefore, it allons us to acknowledge that even girlish body with innocent and frail-looking fashion can be a form of femme fatale, and that fashion styles is essential in forming the image of femininity.

• 복식
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• 제50권7호
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• pp.165-179
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• 2000

This research centers on studying the function and characteristic of fashion illustration for advertisement and publication which is, among plenty of fashion illustration's functions, the commercial one. Here are some purposes of the research. First, it presents the function of fashion illustration. Second, under the contemporary circumstance of specialization and subdivision. It givers people the better understanding of fashion illustration by providing a variety of its classification bases other than the typical, simple grouping of style drawing and fashion illustration. Third, this research helps fashion illustration establish itself as commercial art by showing how fashion illustration is utilized in the field as a part of the fashion industry. The methods and contents of the research are described that the concept of fashion illustration, characteristic, classification bases and commercial function are presented and than the data of fashion illustration which hale been used as goods since 1990 in the nation are selected in order to analyze the media for the application of fashion illustration. its expression methods, factors and images. By doing so, advertising fashion illustration are much less than those of published fashion illustration and even most cases of advertising fashion illustration are related just to poster advertisement such as magazines, fashion events or public subscription. The published fashion illustration isn't also attracting the public since it focuses on fashion information books, fashion magazines or fashion -clothing books. Another finding is that the expression style of fashion illustration is not various or distinctive. The expression remains in the trends of painting, figurative drawing, sometimes adopts post-modernism which is reflected in popular cartoon and figures exaggerates or simplifies the human body. The image of fashion illustration is simple. casual or feminine in the rough. For the development of commercial fashion illustration, it is required to produce fashion illustrators, not works but goody, with various concepts appealing to the public.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the street style of women in Dalian, China. 1.185 females of Dalian central street have participated for the survey of this study. This study analyzes characterization of the street style and, classifies it's characteristics by age groups, clothing styles, and clothing items. There are three outcomes due to the aim of this study, 1. In age group classification, every age groups preferred casual style. Especially, young/young adults preferred mix-match styles with various designs. Distinctly, some of missy group preferred fashion trend and others preferred mature style. Also, the preference of missies/madame's group is obviously divided into two groups which pursues fashion trend and not. 2. In clothing style classification, casual styles such as mini-skirts, hot pants, tight t-shirts are mostly in tight silhouette. Also, the main colors are indigo-blue, white, black and point color, which are vivid tone and fluorescent colors. The characteristics of sport casual style contribute the upper garment and the lower garment, which forms a set. Classic styles are divided into two groups of typical formal dress and traditional Qipao dress. The colors of feminine style and textile printing are more sumptuous than other styles. 3. In clothing items classification, the points of the upper garments is the construction of designs, textile printing, ornament with beads, embroidery, and ribbon etc., exposed back. The lower garments like hot pants and mini-skirts are made of jeans. The cargo pants that is made of jean, cotton, luster textile. Also, one-piece dress has the characteristics of tiered and irregular hem line.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.778-792
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• 2003

This study is to review, in the social and cultural context, the main causes for the sportism that prevails in modern fashion, and to analyze the typical expressions in the domestic fashion. Many factors attribute to the advent of sportism such as rapid development and cultural changes toward sports, increase in leisure time and abundant opportunities, new fashion materials resulting from new technologies, emerging youth culture and increasing preference for such culture, and the postmodernism. With this background, sportism, which has been appearing in the domestic fashion, falls into 5 categories as follows based on the type of its expression. “Urban Street Sportism” is affected by the new sports culture of urban young people, which is characterized such that body line is disregarded with over-sized garment in layered style without considering T.P.O. concept. “Romantic Sportism” applies colors, fabrics and details of romantic images to sporty items, or culminates the feminine and elegant sportism by using the sporty fabrics and details along with romantic items. “Vintage Sportism” is characterized by its well-refined, high quality expression of naturally worn for long time, which is affected by the postmodernism. “Urban Utility Sportism,” which is developed with such design factors as fabrics, styles, details and colors with emphasis on their utility and functionality, explicitly accommodates the changed modern life styles particularly in urban areas. Lastly, the military image, which was developed during the Iraq War along with simultaneous anti-war activities, and the peace messages, which deliver the mankind's hope for the world peace and social wellness, formulate the “Military Sportism”.