• 복식
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• 제57권3호
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• pp.165-175
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• 2007

Religion affects all the dimension of human beings, and at the same time it forms one dimension of human beings. Costume Is considered as a result that reflects the phases of the time and the characteristics of a wearer. Costume, also, has been influenced by religion that has led one's belief, social spirit and culture for a long period of time. The Eastern aesthetics has expanded the area of thoughts with the concepts that originated from Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. Among the concepts, Non-Dualistic Theory is the core idea of Buddhism.'rho theory contains the moaning that one should not lean to one side between existence and nonexistence and should not be obsessed with the center. It was the most powerful Buddhistic idea that had an influence on Asian aesthetics. Korean traditional costume is not an exception. This study has a significance that it was conducted to understand the relation between religious principle and traditional custom through mainly using documentary records. The formative characteristics of Korean traditional costume influenced by Non-Dualistic Theory ran be summarized as non-structure like, indeterminate forms, amorphousness and anti-decoration such as plainness, temperance and achromatic color. Aesthetic value was expressed through 'the aesthetic of emptiness', 'the aesthetic of hiding', and 'the aesthetic of nature'. Although the appearance of a religious symbol can change, an essential element in religion lasts as human society remains. Although our clothing culture has converted to western style, Korean traditional aesthetics is placed deep inside of 'the Koreans' spirit and has a consistent effect on our overall culture of clothing.

• 복식
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• 제6권
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• pp.161-171
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• 1982

The idea of King Hungdok's prohibition of clothing was to restrict the use of chinese-made cloth on the one hand and to compell his people to use Korean-made cloth for their apparel on the other. The prohibition of clothing sprang from King Hungdok's aspiration to restore his dynasty that had been falling due to the repeated drought disaster and luxurious living of the aristocracy. Safflower, Rubeaceae roots and Sapan wood are well known as some of the earliest natural red-dyes, exhibiting beautiful red-color in our anciet cultural tradition. The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. Those plants used to make the color yellow are: Gardenia, phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, coptis, safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. Shikon, root of violet plant, is well known as one of the earliest natural days. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color.

• 복식
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• 제43권
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• pp.259-282
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• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.

• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.56-69
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of Korean costume colors according to the diachronic stages of culture(Chosun dynasty, Modern times, Present age) and to interpretate the meanings of costume colors as a cultural code. To examine the color characteristics according to the cultural change, the quantitative analysis and the qualitative analysis were used. For the quantitative analysis 1535 color samples were collected and for the qualitative analysis on the sensitive aspect of Korean costume color, 340 color names were collected. The results of this study as follows; 1.'Red' and 'Blue' were preferred throughout the periods. In Chosun dynasty, the higher saturation of 'Red' and 'Blue', its symbolic meanings were more emphasized. 2. In the Modern times, 'Pink' was more distinctive than 'Red'. 'Pink' meant that the ecdysis of the traditional view of color. 3.'Yellow' of the low Saturation was used frequently in Chosun dynasty but in the Modern times, the use of 'Yellow' increased and the high saturation were used. In the Present age, the frequency of 'Yellow' was reduced relating to the increasing use of 'Brown'. 4.'Neutral Color' has changed according to the diachronic stages of the culture. 'Black' was increased and had a big meaning in the cultural aspect of the Modern times. In the Present age, 'Gray' and 'grayish colors' were increased related to Technology, Metals and High rise buildings.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2005년도 Fasion road:Korea to belarus
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• pp.95-98
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• 2005

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.336-344
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• 2010

Stage costumes are characterized by the importance as a medium of total visual expression on a synthetic art and need to be designed more effectively. This study followed the stage costumes of the play 'Long long time ago whuo-ee whuoee' which participated in the China-Japan-Korea University Theatre Festival. By consisting of the framework of a Korean story that tells and expands the visual expression province by the access method of a producer, the unique costume in the play was created by the dyeing of the traditional hangi. First, the use of hanji in theater represents originality and a fresh variation with the formative beauty of stage costumes in accordance with hanji that conforms to the recreation of tradition. Second, the dip dyeing technique made it possible to express colors limitlessly and the airbrush dyeing technique along with dyeing twice could account for the weak points of the color. As a result, the color brought effect as expected. Third, the weak points were supported by a Jumchi technique that created the fibroid material tangled with stronger adhesion in the creation of a hangi costume. In addition, dyed hangi was attached to the outer fabric. It allowed the costume to have a unique texture that was both soft and tough. This enforced the visualization of the costume and durability to prevent possible damage by the performers. Forth, pieces of hanji were attached to the damaged parts of the costume after re-visiting the dress rehearsal. As a result, the stage costumes represented the shabby clothes that express the social class of the characters. A new understanding of the excellence of traditional hanji was found and confirmed the possibility of it as a material for stage costumes through the study.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.331-347
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.330-346
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to link traditional patterns to modern clothing. Of all the traditional patterns, the cloud pattern was chosen for use during the development of a modern one-piece dress design. This study is based upon document searches, including research papers. Through these searches, it investigates the symbolic meaning, historical change, and formation of the cloud pattern. Based on this investigation, the study attempts to modernize the cloud pattern and apply the modernized patterns to the design of a one-piece dress. The design procedure includes three sub-processes: selection, arrangement, and color-scheme. The selection process was divided in two: first, the original form of the cloud pattern was hand-drawn using tracing paper: second, the form of the pattern was edited using Adobe Photoshop. The arrangement of the pattern was made through the checklist conception method, containing the following functions: expand, reset, repeat, and overlap. For the color-scheme of the pattern, Roy Lichtenstein's(1923~1997) work was selected, and the colors in his work were adopted when dyeing the rest of the one-piece dress as well as the cloud features. In conclusion, six modern designs of the one-piece dress were created by using one of Korea's traditional patterns - the cloud pattern. Therefore, this study can offer invaluable suggestions for multifaceted research on how to come up with design concepts which apply Korea's traditional patterns to clothing design.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권4호
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• pp.1-18
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• 2001

Korea huts been dramatically changed during the last century in many aspect of society, with the introduction of western culture in the beginning of 20th century. This study aims at understanding the changes in our traditional culture shown by costume as well as examining the aspects of the changes of traditional clothing according to age, by comparing the differences of our traditional dress Hanbok between ear1y and the late of the 20th century. Analysis of photographs showing Hanbok of both ages was used. 155 photographs of people wearing traditional Hanbok in the beginning of the 20th century were collected from the photo collection books portraying various living conditions of common people at that time. 748 Photographs of Hanbok worm today were obtained by taking pictures of various occasions like wedding ceremonies in 5 big cities during 1997. The process of analysis consists of 3 stages: setting standards, sorting, and grouping by positioning. The results showed that traditional Hanbok room in the early 20th century has maintained its basic silhouette and design during the century, but the methods of color coordination, ornamentation, construction have underdone many changes in detail. Consequently, traditional frame exits, but actually there are many variations of tradition produced by individual tastes and fashion trend. These changes show that continuing influx of the western culture which has made enormous social changes in Korea had an influence even on Hanbok.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제3권
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• pp.107-120
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the differences in the clothing image perception of elderly women according to the clothing types, the clothing colors, the perceiver's sex-role attitude, and gender. Result of factor analysis revealed that the dimensions of clothing image perception was classified into four categories: evaluation, youth, warmth, and activity. Perceiver's sex-role attitude and gender gave a significant influence on the perception of evaluation factor. Youth factor had an interaction effect on the clothing types, clothing colors, and sex-role attitudes. The persons with a conservative sex-role attitude perceived the clothing image of warm color suits as younger than the one of cold colors. The clothing image of a warm colored Hanbok (Korean traditional dress) was perceived milder than a cold one, but there were no difference in suits. Bright color suits make the wearer look younger, and cold color suits make the wearer look active. The clothing color had greater influences on the warmth and the evaluation factor than clothing types. Persons who have a conservative sex-role attitude perceived the differences according to clothing types and colors in a traditional way. It could be certified that perceiver's sex-role attitude was one of the variables influencing his/her perception in social interaction.