• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.451-462
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is 1) to find out the dominant clothing ornaments in Europe in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, 2) to examine the changes of such clothing details as neckline and collar, sleeve and stomacher from 16th to 18th century 3) and to classify the ornaments of these 3 centuries according to Yin and Yang's traits. An analysis was conducted of 405 pieces of art out of 10 books of costume history. Of these pieces, 121 were from the Renaissance era, 107 were Baraque and 177 were Rococo. The analysis found that the distinctive ornaments in 16th century were ruff, slash, chain and girdle decoration. The distinctive ornaments of Baroque period were tassel, fringe, loop and binding. The Rococo period were distinguished by falbala, sash belt and fabric necklace. With regard to the changes over the 3 centuries necklines changed from high to lower. Sleeves became shorter. Stomacher which was long and sharp became wider and shorter. As to the Yin and Yang's traits there was also an evolution. Renaissance costume with Yang's style was decorated mostly Yang influenced ornaments. Baroque clothing was a mixed of Yin and Yang, as were the ornaments. By Rococo both clothing and ornaments reflected Yin's traits.

• 복식
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• 제58권9호
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• pp.51-67
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style that were excavated from the tombs of the Yeosan Song family. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Except Dapho, all of the above mentioned coat were usually worn in the late 15th and late 16th centuries. Jikryeong and Cheolik were often worn in both of the centuries. But Aekjureum was often worn in the late 15th century and Jikryeong with no side hem and Jikryeong of Dopo style, in the late 16th century. Generally, the men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style had a short fore part and a long rear part, doubled kalgit of banmokpan style and a narrow sleeve in the late 15th century, while fore and rear parts of the same length, kalgit of ordinary style and the sleeve of bean chaff shape in the late 16th century. In both of the centuries, the coat had the outer Seop that was doubled and used short, narrow coat strings to be adjusted. Samgakmu was used to Jikryeong with no side hem and Aekjureum. Out of the coat, those which were lined or padded or quilted with cotten used Samgakmu, but those which were unlined didn't. To adjust the coat, usually, a pair of short, narrow coat strings was used. The coat had the coat strings directly stitched on them or indirectly connected to them by means of the coat string hanger.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.425-437
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• 2013

The aim of this study was to establish the identity of Korean traditional food based on the recorded food preferences during the period of the Chosun Dynasty. Our primary source in this regard was the invaluable, historical document called the "Miam's diary." This important document reveals details of such food preferences from October 1567 to September 1568. By analyzing the income-expenditure trends of virtually every household, this diary was used to describe a vivid traditional food preference of the people during that period. A detailed analysis of the diary reveals the summary of families' characteristics in the 16th century. First, it records the fact that expenditure on food was mainly based on stipend and gifts received. The type of food preferred by the people was diverse in nature; for it included rice, bean, chicken, pheasant, and seafood. However, there were dried or pickled forms too so as to prevent them from undergoing decay. Second, it throws light on the fact that people expended food mainly as a salary for servants. People utilized the income from selling such food items to purchase goods and land. They also used the same either to donate for a funeral or wedding purpose. Third, it records the fact that day-to-day purchase of groceries was mostly based on gift(s) for someone close to them such as a neighbor, colleague, relative, or student. Further, such gifts included small groceries, food items, and clothes. Fourth, based on the data available in the diary, it seemed likely that the gentry families laid emphasis on the customary formalities of a family dating back to as early as the late 16th century. Finally, the document also records the fact that noblemen of the Chosun Dynasty had a notion that they had to extend warmth and affection by presenting generous gifts to their guests at home. Noblemen during that period were very particular in welcoming their guests as they believed that this approach alone would testify their status as noblemen.

• 복식
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• 제54권8호
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• pp.113-128
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• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

• 한국도서관정보학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.363-373
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• 2007

설화지는 16세기 이전부터 19세기 이후까지 초조된 종이로서, 하얗고 아름다운 전통 우리나라 종이의 특성을 지니고 있는 종이이다. 원산지는 평강(平康)이며, 17세기 이후 남원 순창, 진주 등지에서도 초조되었다. 원료는 뽕나무로서, 겨울철에 눈을 이용하여 표백하고(설쇄) 초조하였다. 서화용이나 인쇄용지로 사용되었으며, 궁중에서 혹은 사신의 예물로 사용된 고급품이었다.

• 한국수학사학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.89-94
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• 2003

Though the concept of unique factorization was formulated in tile 19th century, Euclid already had considered the prime factorization of natural numbers, so called tile fundamental theorem of arithmetic. The unique factorization of algebraic integers was a crucial problem in solving elliptic equations and the Fermat Last Problem in tile 19th century On the other hand the unique factorization of the formal power series ring were a critical problem in the past century. Unique factorization is one of the idealistic condition in computation and prime elements and prime ideals are vital ingredients in thinking and solving problems.

• 복식
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.121-135
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• 2003

This paper is about the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty, just before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, through painting-Kiyeonghoido. In the Chosun period, dress styles played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The most remarkable signs of social standing are the hair ornaments. Officials in ranks, noksas, and seoris are wearing a same, a yugakpyeongjeongeon and a mugakpyeongjeongeon respectively. The head ornament for musicians in high ranks is a samo, and, for those in low ranks a hood or a heuklip. Accordingly, head ornaments were important articles among apparels, and especially ripja was an article that sensitively reflected the contemporary fashion. Such a trend also influenced the common people's styles of dress. Thus, the style of the heuklip worn by the chamberlain in Kiyeonghoido resembled of yangban's. Actual official uniforms also diverged from the specifications for them. Sangboks were red for both dangsanggwans and danghagwans, but their ranks were marked by the material of their dress rather than by the breast plates. Dress styles change over time as the society members influence and are influenced by each other. Therefore, owing to the social characteristics of a hierarchical society, dress styles are distinctive according to the wearers' social standings and roles, and various dress styles emerge that deviate from regulations. The significance of the present paper is to review the diversity of the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.814-827
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• 2022

This study examines the social and artistic aspects of the Netherlands in the 16th century, focusing on the paintings of Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1525-1569), a repre- sentative Dutch painter at that time. Also analyzed were the types and characteristics of each item of the male populace's and nobles' costumes at that point in the Renaissance. The results are as follows: most of the populace's chemises do not have frills on the neckline and sleeves; the doublet has a loose body and sleeves overall; and the sleeves and armholes are fixed with sewing rather than being detachable, making the epaulet invisible. The neckline of the doublet usually does not have a collar, but it sometimes has a hood. In the case of trousers, most males are shown wearing waist-high stockings, and a piece of cord is visible. It seems that the populace's coats were mainly Spanish-style capes. The 16th-century Dutch populace's costumes are imitative-reflecting a desire to emulate the codpieces and hairstyles of the aristocrats-while providing individuality through hats and belts. In terms of practicality, it appears that a knife and pouch were used in various living environments. This trend can be seen as a reflection of populace's perception of the costume at the time.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.114-128
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• 1999

In a turn a century, the skepticism, mysticism and eroticism used to prevail, the people becoming anxious, expectative and doubtful about an oncoming age. The costumes tend to become more exciting and erotic in the fashion. This thesis is on understanding “What would 21 century's clothes be\ulcorner” after analyzing the specific points in an end of the century. The characteristics found from 16th century to 20th century are going to the extremes in the shapes, consistent appearance of bustle style costumes and excessive ornaments which are closely interrelated with one another. I expect the fashion in 21st century would be changed in two ways. Firstly, going to the extremes and stressing on the buttock would be going down in the end of 1999. Secondly, the comfortable clothes highest in function and technology, and also friendly to the environment, might be the main stream, rather then outwardly good looking clothes, because spirit and environment is much more emphasized than the mode by the social impact or pressure in the next era. (Korean J Human Ecology 2(1) : 114~128, 1999)

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.127-140
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• 1998

A study on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from excavated tomb of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461-1528) is reported in this paper. This study is aimed at establishing database for a traditional Korean costume construction and emphasizing the necessity for development of methodology in writing report from excavated costume including measuring, construction methods and materials. This paper includes examples of measured length for each part of 'Dan-Ryung', reconstructured drawings, pictures, and construction methods. The followings on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century are found in this study: 1) Dan-Ryung robes were made of less expensive hemp, cotton, silk & cotton, and ramie & silk. 2) As a whole, Dan-Ryung was lengthy and spacious and it had straighter and narrower sleeves when compared to the ones from the late Chosun. 3) There existed Moo which was large rectangular guest with double pleats at Dan-Ryung's side seam. Its round collar was constructed with a 3 cm width bias. Ball buttons on the outer collar and loops on the right shoulder are attached. 4) There existed a pair of indirectly attached slim and short strings. Inside string is directly attached. 5) Inside of the shoulder, a U-shaped shoulder pad made of the same cloth as the inner cloth was attached. hand sewing methods used include delicate flat-felled seam stitch, back-stitch and sew-up stitch.