• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.127-134
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• 2006

Based on a weakly non-Gaussian theory the occurrence probability of freak waves is formulated in terms of the number of waves in a time series and the surface elevation kurtosis. Finite kurtosis gives rise to a significant enhancement of freak wave generation in comparison with the linear narrow banded wave theory. For fixed number of waves, the estimated amplification ratio of freak wave occurrence due to the deviation from the Gaussian theory is 50% - 300%. The results of the theory are compared with laboratory and field data.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.20 no.3 s.70
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• pp.1-6
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• 2006

Modulation theory describes propagation of surface waves with deep wave number and frequency modulation. Locally spectrally narrow wave packet can have accumulated large scale frequency shift of carrier wave during propagation. Some important nonlinear modulation effects, such as negative frequencies, phase kinks, crest pairing, etc., often observed experimentally at long fetch propagation of finite amplitude surface wave trains, are reproduced by the proposed theory. The presented model permits also to analyze the appropriately short surface wave packets and modulation periods. Solutions show the wave phase kinks to arise on areas' of relatively small free surface displacement in complete accordance with the experiments.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 1983.07a
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• pp.78-79
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• 1983

It is well known that small amplitude wave theory, a first approximation to the complete theoretical description of wave behavior, yields a maximum investment in mathematical endeavor. But, if the wave amplitude is large, the small amplitude considerations are not valid, and finite amplitude wave theory which retains higher-order terms to obtain an accurate representation of the wave motion is numercal theory. The Stream function wave theory, one of the numerical methods, was developed by Dean for use with asymmetric measured wave profiles and with symmetric theoretical wave profiles. Dalrymple later improved the comjputational procedure by adding two Lagrangian constraints so that more efficient convergence of the iterative numerical method to a specified wave heigh and to a zero mean free surface displacement resulted. This paper introduces in details the Dean and Darlymple Stream Function Method in case of the symmetric theoretical wave, because in design purposes, wave height and wave period are given.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• v.27 no.5_6
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• pp.1017-1031
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• 2009

The problem of interaction of surface water waves by small undulation at the bottom of a laterally unbounded sea is treated on the basis of linear water wave theory for both normal and oblique incidences. Perturbation analysis is employed to obtain the first order corrections to the reflection and transmission coefficients in terms of integrals involving the shape function c(x) representing the bottom undulation. Fourier transform method and residue theorem are applied to obtain these coefficients. As an example, a patch of sinusoidal ripples is considered in both the cases as the shape function. The principal conclusion is that the reflection coefficient is oscillatory in the ratio of twice the surface wave number to the wave number of the ripples. In particular, there is a Bragg resonance between the surface waves and the ripples, which is associated with high reflection of incident wave energy. The theoretical observations are validated computationally.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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• v.57 no.5
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• pp.837-859
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• 2016

An efficient shear deformation theory is developed for wave propagation analysis of an infinite functionally graded plate in the presence of thermal environments. By dividing the transverse displacement into bending and shear parts, the number of unknowns and governing equations of the present theory is reduced, and hence, makes it simple to use. The thermal effects and temperature-dependent material properties are both taken into account. The temperature field is assumed to be a uniform distribution over the plate surface and varied in the thickness direction only. Material properties are assumed to be temperature-dependent, and graded in the thickness direction according to a simple power law distribution in terms of the volume fractions of the constituents. The governing equations of the wave propagation in the functionally graded plate are derived by employing the Hamilton's principle and the physical neutral surface concept. There is no stretching.bending coupling effect in the neutral surface-based formulation, and consequently, the governing equations and boundary conditions of functionally graded plates based on neutral surface have the simple forms as those of isotropic plates. The analytic dispersion relation of the functionally graded plate is obtained by solving an eigenvalue problem. The effects of the volume fraction distributions and temperature on wave propagation of functionally graded plate are discussed in detail. It can be concluded that the present theory is not only accurate but also simple in predicting the wave propagation characteristics in the functionally graded plate. The results carried out can be used in the ultrasonic inspection techniques and structural health monitoring.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.389-399
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• 2009

Subsurface pressure gauge has many advantages in measuring a wide range of wave spectra in coastal waters from wind waves to long waves. However, a shortcoming of the gauge is related to the difficulties in recovering surface wave spectra from subsurface pressure records. In this study, the effect of current on the pressure transfer function of the pressure gauge, and hence on the surface wave energy spectrum, was investigated by analyzing the subsurface pressure data based on the linear wave theory. For this purpose, laboratory experiments were carried out in a wave-current flume. Subsurface pressure records, as well as the surface elevation data, were obtained simultaneously under different wave and current conditions. Pressure transfer functions were obtained and compared with those estimated from the linear wave theory, both with and without inclusion of the current-effect. It was established that wave spectra obtained from subsurface pressure gauge were in closer agreement with those from surface wave gauge when current-effect on the pressure transfer function was taken into consideration for analysis.

• Smart Structures and Systems
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.141-153
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• 2019

This research deals with wave propagation of the functionally graded (FG) nano-beams based on the nonlocal elasticity theory considering surface and flexoelectric effects. The FG nano-beam is resting in Winkler-Pasternak foundation. It is assumed that the material properties of the nano-beam changes continuously along the thickness direction according to simple power-law form. In order to include coupling of strain gradients and electrical polarizations in governing equations of motion, the nonlocal non-classical nano-beam model containg flexoelectric effect is used. Also, the effects of surface elasticity, dielectricity and piezoelectricity as well as bulk flexoelectricity are all taken into consideration. The governing equations of motion are derived using Hamilton principle based on first shear deformation beam theory (FSDBT) and also considering residual surface stresses. The analytical method is used to calculate phase velocity of wave propagation in FG nano-beam as well as cut-off frequency. After verification with validated reference, comprehensive numerical results are presented to investigate the influence of important parameters such as flexoelectric coefficients of the surface, bulk and residual surface stresses, Winkler and shear coefficients of foundation, power gradient index of FG material, and geometric dimensions on the wave propagation characteristics of FG nano-beam. The numerical results indicate that considering surface effects/flexoelectric property caused phase velocity increases/decreases in low wave number range, respectively. The influences of aforementioned parameters on the occurrence cut-off frequency point are very small.

• Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.33-39
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• 1982

It is one of the basic problems of naval architecture and ocean engineering how to describe the wave kinematics normally under the assumption of an ideal fluid. At present, there are many wave theories available for design purposes. These can be classified into two groups: One is the analytic theory and the other is the numerical theory. This paper briefly introduces the stream function method of R.G. Dean which belongs to the latter group and shows its numerical evaluations exemplified for two cases: One is applied to observed waves and the other is for design waves. In the former case, the wave profiles are calculated by the stream function method and compared with those of the observed waves and also with the results of R.G. Dean. They show good agreement. In the latter case, the wave kinematics and wave loads on a column of diameter 1m are calculated by the stream function method and these are compared with those resulted from the 5th-order gravity wave theory. As a result of comparison the values by the stream function method are slightly larger than those by the 5th-order gravity wave theory but the difference are negligible. From this it is concluded that the stream function method is very useful. And as characteristics of the numerical theories, the stream function method of R.G. Dean can be easily extended to the higher order terms and can include easily the current velocity and the pressure distribution on the free surface. In addition, when the data of observed wave profile are given, this method can reproduced the observed wave profile as closely as possible so that this method seems to describe the ocean wave more realistically. And from standpoint of a mathematical principle the stream function method exactly satisfies the kinematic free-surface boundary condition.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.111-116
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• 1987

The accurate prediction of the ship wave resistance is very important to design ships which operate satisfactorily in a wave environment. Thus, work should continue on development and validation of methods to compute ship wave patterns and wave resistance. Research efforts to improve the prediction of ship waves and wavemaking resistance are categorized in two major areas. First is the development of higher-order theories to take account of the nonlinear effect of the free surface condition and improved analytical treatment of the body boundary condition. Second is the development of direct numerical methods aimed at solving body and free-surface boundary conditions as accurately as possible. A new formulation of the slender body theory for a ship with constant speed is developed by Maruo. It is quite different from the existing slender ship theory by Vossers, Maruo and Tuck. It may be regarded as a substitute for the Neumann-Kelvin approximation. In present work, the method of asymptotic expansion of the Kelvin source is applied to obtain a new wave resistance formulation in fluid of finite depth. It takes a simple form than existing theory.

• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2004.03a
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• pp.119-125
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• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory and solitary wave theory are employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with each other. The marker-density method is better then the hybrid method. Also they are compared with other existing experimental results. The Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.