• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.18-35
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to offer a holistic description of the role demanded of costume designers to provide qualitative improvement of costume designs for small- and medium-sized musicals. The study accomplishes this by analyzing the relationship between the play and costume design in musicals and also by examining the process and environments in which costumes of small-sized theater companies' original musicals are produced. The methods of study are empirical research of literature related to dress, stage art, and culture & arts from both domestic and foreign publications; research of visual materials related to plays; and production and analysis of theatrical performances in which the researcher has participated as a costume designer. The results of the study are as follows. First, professionalism of the play and visual perfection of the work may be enhanced by costume designers actively participating in meetings with staff from each field of the play. Second, by taking advantage of the unique aspects of the work environment of small-sized theater companies' small- and medium-sized original musicals, such as harsh situations of regular and periodical meetings with all staff member, the designer may consider the director's intentions and concepts of the play, but should display more creative and autonomous design abilities. Third, because the costume designers of small- and medium-sized original musical plays are given a small budget and short production periods, the ability to systematically manage budget and production periods and the ability to flexibly handle unexpected incidents during the play is essential.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.2 s.8
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• pp.65-73
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• 2006

Lots of audience turn their eyes upon musical to satisfy various cultural desire. It is popular culture that was watched in culture contents industry. The stage costume which turn audience's eyes in musical the most is the sight art of stage to express visually actor(actress)'s personality, mental state, administrative position, age and the distinction of sex. This study researches designed stage costume which was based on time backgrounds and historical facts of reinvented clothes and its ornaments in Egypt by 'Sonia Rykiel' through musical, 'ten commandments' with special times. We collected home and abroad documentary records, Internet data. Moreover we viewed performance to analyze stage costume and brochure photograph data to study. In consequence the stage costume of musical 'ten commandments' found its way out of traditional clothes and its ornaments largely. We can recognize the stage costume as the most important part in drama by explaining the content on drama as costume through reinvented shape with modern sense and by taking charge of the principal part to lead atmosphere. In addition, thanks to the creative work of designer for stage costume, we can realize important intermediation to make higher artistic value of musical.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.65-83
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to explore the dynamics of the newly emerging designer fashion market and examine how startup designers reacted to the tension between creativity and business, and how they grew within such dynamics. In-depth interviews were conducted with 22 DFE entrepreneurs and 7 fashion industry experts. The grounded theory was used to analyze data and yield results. Korean new generation of DFEs, attracted by the growing online market opportunities are directly distributing through online channels, targeting the millennial consumers who are pursuing new values at new distribution channels. They show new growth pattern, start with a few key items in the middle and lower price segments, then upscale their design, quality, and price. This study further investigated designers' enterprise orientation shift, which was explored by Mills. Some creativity-oriented designers encountered difficulties in the orientation shift, while designers who demonstrated business characteristics from the startup stage restored the balance by trying to improve both creativity and business. This study discovered a new way for the designer to enter the growth stage. This growth approach is one of the success strategies applicable to designers launching a brand on online platforms in the global market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.42-55
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• 2013

As performing arts including operas are getting popular these days, the importance of stage costumes is strengthened. Stage costume is one of the artistic requisites for opera performance, it plays an important role in describing the play's situation, the director's style and the person's character. Nevertheless the study regarding the opera's costumes is not active, especially the comparative study on the same opera's costumes performed by different opera companies have hardly been made. Therefore this study compared 5 Manon Lescaut opera performances: the Metropolitan Opera(1980), the Flemish Opera(1991), the Metropolitan Opera(2008), the Seoul Metropolitan Opera(2010) and the Vienna State Opera(2010) and made clear the difference between the four. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, the Metropolitan Opera's costumes in 1980 act and in 2008 act ascertained Rococo dressing. Because the costume designer for both acts was the same person, the general costume styles of the two acts are similar. Second, as for the Flemish Opera and Seoul Metropolitan Opera, there was a significant drop in fancy details and trimmings in the costumes. But the costumes made strong impressions dues to its color and luminosity contrast. Third, Vienna State Opera costumes had the boldest designs and it reflected modern designs as well. This study is meaningful in that it is based on the comparison study on the same opera stage costumes designed by different directors. Afterward this study is expected to contribute toward study on opera stage costumes and stage costume's development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.125-143
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• 2013

This study aims to clarify the identity of contemporary Chinese fashion design by examining how the characteristics of Chinese tradition are accepted and presented in fashion under the influences of western cultures. This study performed a literature survey on related works. Also this study performed demonstrative analysis of Chinese daily newspapers (People's Daily and Xinmin Evening News, 2007-2010) and fashion collections by Chinese and Chinese descent designers(2007-2011). The results are as follows: First, China is trying to express Chinese traditional ideas and factors in the design areas, and also trying to achieve an universal generalization. Second, the Chinese designers emphasized traditional ideas and culture in their designs. The Chinese descent designers were affected more by western culture. The common aesthetic consciousness were the beauties of sophisticated and splendorous decoration, vastness and elegance. Also the compromised images, neutral images and antique images were common in both groups. Third, the Chinese designers presented fashion designs on formalized and imitation stage. Also they tried to make a metaphorical stage. The Chinese descent designers showed designs on a metaphorical stage. In conclusion, the contemporary Chinese fashion design should find the way to globalize and identity of the traditional culture code simultaneously.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.141-159
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• 2005

Targeting a film that is the medium of having powerful influence upon the masses, the present study examined about a role and characteristics in the movie costume, and a role of costume designers, which are shown in process of being changed the film costume. There are many designers who were in charge of the film costume, but the present study examined centering on designers who participated aiming to create the image of a character from the stage of manufacturing a movie. It presented and analyzed visual materials by dividing four genres such as a historical drama movie, a horror movie, a fantasy movie, and a modern-play movie, and by selecting a typical work. A Historical drama movie needs to be investigated costume by the historical background in a movie, but inside it was shown clothes that were elaborately reproduced and newly created. A horror movie plays a role of medium that reflects the human society and the internal mentality of a human being along with the attribute of entertainment. As a genre that requires much costume, make-up and special effect aiming at dramatic effect, a role of film costume possesses great weight. As a fantasy movie is a field based on 'fiction' of a writer who creates a work, it is a field that requires creativity of a costume designer most. As a modern-play movie is what reproduces reality, it best reflects the phases of that time, and is the field that is influenced by costume or fashion trend. Costume needs to be designed in a bid to allow spectators to be inspired the wholly united and harmonious mood with leading a story of a movie, and the individual image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.157-165
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• 2009

This study intends to discuss the efficient stage costume design that uses costume-rentals and production method as a realistic alternative for production of stage costume of low budget performance. Directly participating in the costume design and production of the performance , this researcher applied the methodology of corroborative study on the basis of production process and results by referring to the papers and literature published by academic society for the theory necessary for study. Centering around the western costume in the stage costumes of , the scope of study was the costume of Paris, France prevalent at the end of the 19th century which is epochal background of performance. In spite of its merit of reducing production charge and production in the low budget performance, costume-rentals is subject to the lack of considering unitγ with other visual factors and limit in reflecting the creativity of costume designer. The following actions shall be taken to solve such problem. First, it is essential to set production direction and plan that meets budget and work concept. Second, it is required to highlight the characteristic factor of the age which is the background of work so as to grant the sense of age and to produce the visual unity of costume by supplementing the costume composition. Third, it is necessary to make large effect with low lost by using costume articles that can express the characteristics of the age. Fourth, it is required to efficiently reflect the transformation of design by minimizing the damage of costume through research on the sewing method and materials as well as creative idea. In this way, the efficient stage costume could be realized in the performance with low budget by approaching costume-rentals in the viewpoint of costume design, transforming it in accordance with work concept and adding the visual factors.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.115-132
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• 2023

The globalization of Korean culture has spurred a steady increase in the participation of domestic fashion designers in global performance art. This study analyzes the formal elements of stage costume designs by fashion designers, and further evaluates the impact of these designers' aesthetic philosophies on overall performance. This analysis seeks to provide a foundation for the development of new directionality in performance art, with an enhanced competitiveness derived from diversity and creativity. The scope of this research spans 15 performances and eight fashion designers' works in the post-2010s era. These performances are characterized by their break from traditional artistic norms, illustrating the modernization of the performing arts and reflecting the designers' aesthetic philosophies. This modernization incorporates inspirations drawn from a diverse selection of movements, such as fusion, culture clash, kitsch, and minimal avant-garde. As a result, in combination with a pure reflection of the designers' aesthetics, these designs heighten overall performance, suggest a new direction for traditional performance art, tap into a popular sensibility to expand communication to a wider audience, and push the boundaries of tradition through artistic innovation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.743-755
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• 2016

This study aimed to reveal the designer's creative process in the development of clothing designs. The researcher has taken roles both as a design practitioner and an observer. The full process of design development was concurrently documented while working to solve a specific problem. This included noting down the concept, keywords, and detailed scratch ideas, as well as refining the design by collecting sketches and taking photos. Integrated data from the captured design process were analyzed based on Lamb and Kallal's apparel design framework, which included problem identification, construction of preliminary ideas, design refinement, prototype development, and evaluation. The functional, expressive, and aesthetic (FEA) criteria of the entire process were thus assessed. Additionally, five professional apparel reviewers evaluated the design project based on FEA criteria. The results showed the processes for identifying targets and intentions, extracting the main elements from sources, developing the major visual concepts, and making final adjustments. Ultimately, this study revealed how a designer manages each stage of the creative design process. Sharing such detailed observations of the design process can help refine the knowledge involved in each stage of the creative process, and provide guidance for instructors in design education.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.222-239
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• 2021

In this study, six mainland Chinese designer brands-Xander Zhou, Sankuanz, Sean Suen, Feng Chen Wang, Pronounce, and Angel Chen-were selected that had their works presented at both Chinese and global fashion shows between 2016 and 2021. By analyzing the design characteristics of each brand, it is possible to understand the style characteristics and trends of Chinese menswear designs. A case study approach was adopted utilizing literature data, whereby 1663 photos were collected from the fashion information website POP (www.pop-fashion.com). Changes in Chinese men's image and the menswear market were identified. The design characteristics of modern Chinese menswear are as follows. First, the results from analyzing the target brands show that each brand has a distinct personality. Compared with the traditional or formal style, urban casual and sports styles (based on street style) account for a larger proportion. Second, the boundaries between different styles are becoming ambiguous, and contrasting styles are harmoniously expressed by breaking down boundaries through changes and combinations of colors, materials, and details. Third, after examining the overall trend, 2018 was a watershed point, after which the design trend has changed from either conservative or exaggerated to a practical and everyday style, demonstrating a genderless trend.