• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.2 s.87
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• pp.31-38
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• 2006

Silk fabrics are very popular and widely used because of their elegant appearance. However, silk fabrics generally have easy wrinkle, and do not stretch and deform permanently after machine washing. Then the stretched properties of silk fabrics are important for the application of industrial textile materials such as formal and sports wear. Thus, this research surveys the covering, weaving and degumming conditions for stretched silk fabrics. As a result, yarn breaking stress was reduced with increasing spindle speed, and the yarn twists were optimized under the covering condition of polyurethane/silk with PVA pretreatment. In addition, the shrinkage of the silk fabrics treated with star degumming process was reduced by continuous NaOH degumming process. The fabrics showed the fabric physical properties with optimum stretched properties and evenness surfaces.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.109-113
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• 2000

The preparation of skin care gauze could be make to mixing separated cellulose from waste milk pack and degummed silk fibroin fiber. Also, its wound covering and anti-bacterial activity were investigated in order to find out the enhancement of their functionality. By the 30% silk fibroin fiber including skin care gauze, the anti-bacterial activity values of Staphylococcus strain are much 4 times higher than of 0∼10% silk fibroin fiber including skin care gauze. The average yield of cellulose from waste milk pack was obtained 50-60%, and their morphologies, physical properties, modulus and biodegradation ratios are studies, respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.26-43
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• 1973

This study was carried out on the Sewbility of Urethane Foam usually used as coldproof lining. The Sewability was estimated with the Puckering Grade and Seam Efficiency according to the thicknes of urethane foam, fineness and material of sewing thread, and the sort of covering fabric. The result shows the following ; 1. The thick foam proportinally shows the low Puckering Grade. 2. Effect on the sewability is small in fineness of sewing thread but large in material. Especially silk thread shows the greatest sewability in foam sewing. When the material of covering fabric is same as that of sewing thread (for example ; p/c fabric and p/c thread) the sewability is excellent in special. 3. Taffeta in covering foam is not suitable to foam sewing, satin and twill show superior sewability without reagrd to the thickness of foam. 4. In case of sewing foam covered with tricot, optimum thickness of foam and fineness of sewing thread through pretest must determine. 5. The thicker foam is the better seam efficiency tends, and Seam Efficiency largely effects to the strength of the sewing thread itself. 6. The seam Efficiency can heighten with the strength of sewing thread in proportion to that of covering fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.31-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.37-41
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• 2002

The attaching treatment of sericin onto polyester fiber was attempted to improve its sanitary properties. Generally, sericin, a gummy material covering the outer layer of silk filament, is subjected to be removed during degumming process of silk textile process. For this study, sericin particle dissolved within the degumming waste water could be collected by sedimentation of polyaluminium chloride. It was revealed that sericin particle were attached onto the surface of polyester fiber evenly by treatment of glutaraldehyde, a crosslinking agent. A frictional static charge of the treated polyester fabric could be improved, while its hygroscopic property was little changed.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.47-50
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• 1985

The physical properties of graft polymerized silk fibre were investigated with various vinyl monomers. 1. The graft polymerization of styrene and methyl methacrylate onto raw silk reduced the tenacity and elongation of raw silk due to fixation of sericin covering silk fibre in, but the styrene grafting was more effective for sericin fixation of raw silk than the methyl methacrylate one. 2. The water absorbability of glycidyl methacrylate grafted silk increased 14.6% greater than that of methyl methacrylate grafted silk at the same degree of grafting polymerization. 3. The degree of grafting polymerization was increased mostly with ethylene glycol methacrylate. The water absorbability of ethylene glycol methacrylate grafted silk was higher than that of glycidyl methacrylate or ethyl acrylate grafted silk. But the grafted silk fabric increased the fabric flexural rigidity which was negatively related with the favorability of fabric hand-touch, as compared with that of nongrafted silk fabric. 4. The evenness of graft polymerization could be improved by agitating the polymerization bath at the fixed interval by reducing the inter size deviation of grafted silk skein and the thickness deviation of grafted silk fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.1-12
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• 2001

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosen period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into temple and excavated fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Concerning fabrics collected in temples. satin was most used, followed by twill, tabby, multiply, leno and gauze and clossing fabrics in order. Tabby and silk fabrics used Ju(紬) as their main material. Cho( ) was much more used in fabrics collected in temples than in excavated ones. This indicate that Cho( ), more luxurious than Ju(紬), had divine applications such as covering Buddha s bones of temples. Brilliant, colorful multiply fabrics using goldern and color threads had high effects of ornamenting altar covers, umbrellas, surplices and palanquins. Fabrics held in temples adapted composite designs, in which more than two shapes were used, rather than single ones. Single designs employed plant shapes in most cases. followed by treasures pattern, geometrical, cloud and animal shapes in order. Most composite designs used a combination of animal and plant shapes, followed by plant and geometry, treasures pattern and plant, cloud and animal, and animal, treasures pattern and plant in order. Few excavated fabrics used animal designs while fabrics collected in temples were often designed with shapes of propitious animals such as dragon. Treasures pattern. representing a good omen of Buddhism, was often used sing1y or sometimes compositely with another design.nother design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.29-40
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• 2009

On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.8
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• pp.1110-1118
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• 1999

This study was to examine the effects of garment types on thermal insulation using a thermal manikin. cotton polyester wool silk and rayon were selected as outer wears like a blouse a skirt slacks and one-piece for this study Acetate was chosen as a lining. Brief and upper innerwear with long sleeves(cotton) were also chosen as the innerwear. The results were as follows: 1. The thermal insulation of the garment of single layer was in proportion to the covering area of garment in all types of clothing. 2. On adding the innerwear or the lining or both the thermal insulation of the each garment of single layer were showed a different trends by garment types. The thermal manikin insulations of one-piece dress adding the innerwear was higher than those of blouse-skirt suits. The thermal insulation of one-piece dress adding the innerwear and lining was lower than those of blouse-skirt suits. 3. The increasing rates of thermal insulation of multi-layered garments had different value by garment types but garment made of rayon and silk were showed very high increasing rates of thermal insulation. 4. The increasing rates of the thermal insulation of one-piece dress added the lining the innerwear or both except polyester showed the highest value and then blouse-slacks suits' turn came ound Blouse-skirt suits had the lowest the increasing rates of thermal insualition value.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.19-29
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate Renaissance wall-covering fabrics through Flemish paintings, that provides the details of the origin and development of background of modern wallcovering. The methods of the study are as follows. First, the background of textile development of Flanders in the 14^th to 16^th centuries were examined through a prior study. Second, the shape and use of wallcoverings in paintings painted during that time were analyzed and the process of changing to modern forms was studied. The residential environment with many stone buildings in relatively humid and cold weather created a need for decorative fabrics. Back then, the wool and flax fabric were not allowed to be worn on the body, so the materials were used for the development of interior fabrics. The characteristics of wall covering in Flemish paint can be summarized with movable, allegory, and decoration. Movable stems from the arrival of the emerging aristocrats of Flanders, who had enormous commercial trade and carried decorative fabrics; the mobility has become an allegory in reality as the royal and aristocratic use of wall-decorated fabrics is the symbol of authority. In addition, unlike Italy, where silk was procured from the East, fabrics manufactured using flax and wool were not suitable for clothing in terms of religion and practicality and were used to decorate walls.