• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to present the plan for activation and rationalization of production of ladies' jacket and provide basic materials for improvement of the development of technologies in relation to the productivity improvement of ladies' jacket and the achievement of high quality product. For this purpose, this study attempted to investigate the present situation of jacket manufacturing process. The data is related with local ladies' jacket manufacturing companies in Seoul snd Kyonggi area. The results of this study are as follows. 1. 87.8% of the business firms responded that they acquired the productive process of jacket based on their own knowhow and 80.5% was aware of the need for the analysis of each process. The highest proportion of the business firms(65.9%) pointed out that the advantage of process analysis was the alleviation of the production time. 2. The jacket manufacturing process was made up of 4 stages such as the process of frontal/rear plate $\rightarrow$ the process of accessories $\rightarrow$ the process of completion $\rightarrow$ the process of finishing in a broad sense but composed of a total of 19 stages in detail. 3. Attachment of the sleeves(73.2), attachment of the collar(41.5%) and the formation of the overall silhouette(22.0%) were raised as the challenge in manufacturing ladies' jacket. 4. Most of the sewing business firms made use of the method of completing the collar and then stitching the outer material and the inner collar, and the line of the bodice and the outer collar as the method of stitching the tailored collar. and many of them used the method of completing the collar and then inserting it between the line of the bodice and the outer material and stitching it as the method of stitching the stand collar. They had a preference for the method of completing the sleeve and connecting it to the bodice as the method of stitching the sleeve. and used the method of treating the margin to seam of semi-lined and unlined jacket by treating it with the bias tape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.126-143
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and design elements of the Qing dynasty costume style, and accordingly, develop a new fashion design work incorporating modern aesthetics by using the attribute listing technique. A creative idea that drew out various ideas by considering the properties and characteristics of the object in detail through applying the attribute listing technique, and a modern fashion design in the style of Qing dynasty were developed. In the design development process, first, the theme was set as 'Developing a modern fashion design using design elements of Qing dynasty costume'. Second, design elements and components focusing on design details of Qing dynasty costumes were organized. Third, design ideas that replaced or modified design elements for each type of Qing dynasty costume were presented, and the design was developed by combining and modifying these ideas. Fourth, nine designs were selected through a design evaluation process by a group of experts to select a design for the Qing dynasty costume style. Fifth, seven final designs were selected through revisions to compose a collection with unity and balance. Sixth, colour and material were decided for the selected design, and the work was completed through pattern making, sewing, and fitting process. These seven works were designed with motifs of the Qing dynasty's slit, liling, yuanling, hujian, matixiu, manxiu, shuangmanxiu, zhaixiu, pipajin, yourengquejin, yikouzhong, lingyi, yunjian, magua, mamianqun, xingshang, taoku, chaofu, xingfugua, and pao.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Manufacturing Process Engineers
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.1-6
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• 2019

With the increase in number of the athletic population and elderly demographic, the demand for orthopedic splints, which are used to support a damaged body, has rapidly increased. Current splints mainly consist of inner and outer parts, which are multiple fabrics covered with polyurethane and nonwoven fabrics, respectively. However, the laminated materials with directly applied pre-polymer coating lead to a high defect rate because of the uneven thickness on the surface. Thus, this study proposes an indirect coating method using a precise clearance controller, which enables the even application of the coating material on multiple inner parts while maintaining a constant thickness. In addition, a roll-to-roll (R2R) technique is applied instead of the sewing mechanism to bond the inner and outer materials together and enhance the productivity in the final stage. In the advanced methods, there is a storage tank that contains polyurethane, a clearance controller, and pairs of rollers in the upper and lower rows. To improve the quality of the products and optimize the equipment, three controllable factors are determined: the viscosity of polyurethane, angle of the gap controller and number of pairs of rollers in the R2R system.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.754-769
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• 2015

Global sourcing refers to activities performed to acquire materials, finished products and apparel production all around the world. The purposes of the study were to examine basic job requirements and primary skills of sales team and supporting team in global sourcing companies, to investigate educational programs provided by the companies or other educational institutions, and to examine courses to be newly established in the curriculum of clothing and textile majors. The results of the study found that the ability to use English and communication skills were important to perform their tasks (sales and supporting teams). The results revealed that fabric and textile, sewing, and apparel production process were the most frequently taken educational programs provided by global sourcing companies and English classes were the most frequently taken educational programs in the other educational institutions. The results also found that the clothing and textile curriculum need to add classes that help sales and supporting teams perform global sourcing tasks, such as fashion practical English, fabric and textile, apparel production processes, textile and apparel trades, fiber and fabric testing, and presentation skills. The study suggested educational directions for developing curriculum contents of clothing and textiles and cultivating professionals in the global sourcing industries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.136-149
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• 2015

This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.198-210
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Using the premise that fashion and art reflects the characteristics of its times, this study examines the influence of Anti-form in fashion with a focus on physicality. This study combines literary survey and case analysis of both Anti-form in 1960s and 1970s and the fashion collections since 1970s when the influence of Anti-form began to appear in fashion. The influence of Anti-form focusing on physicality is summarized as deconstruction of garment and visualization of the physicality of material. Deconstruction of garment visualizes the invisible structures of garment by deconstructing, restructuring, and deforming the construction and the shapes of the garment, which is illustrated by visualization of design process, overlapping and fusing of materials, loss of stitches, and use of fabrics with flaws, questioning and destroying the sartorial conventions and aesthetic standards. Visualization of the physicality of material exposes the imperfect inside of garment which is concealed conventionally by presenting unfinished garments with minimized sewing procedure, crumpling and flattening fabrics, rubbing and fading surfaces, pulling threads, as well as using the selvages of fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.695-704
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• 2011

This study is an attempt to explore the expressive techniques and characteristics of tie-dye shown in the contemporary fashion. In doing so, the study conducted a literature review and analyzed the works show cased for 2001S/S through 2010F/W, especially from the "big four" collections in Paris, Milan, New York and London. In the contemporary fashion, tie-dye techniques such as tying, folding and sewing are used in an independent or combined manner to express unique images. They also highlight decorative images in combination with a variety of decorative techniques including draping, pleating, beading. In light of its characteristics, tie dye expresses unique formative aesthetics with diverse patterns and creates more gorgeous images than when many different colors are used for dyeing. The dyeing process works as a critical factor influencing the overall image of design, as it is expressed as a pattern by being applied on the whole of an item rather than in part of clothes. The characteristics of tie-dye techniques used in the contemporary fashion are associated with the expressions of natural beauty, abstract decorative beauty, and dynamic rhythmical beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.468-486
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• 2017

In this study, three kinds of wearable fashion prototypes were developed using 3D printers with the goal of developing a practical production method for daily clothes. Prototypes were modeled using Rhinoceros software and developed using FDM 3D printers and TPU filaments. The results of this study are as follows. First, it confirmed the possibility of FDM-type entry-level 3D printers as a tool to develop wearable fashion products. Second, TPU filaments that are soft and ductile are highly likely to be used as a clothing material. Third, patterns designed through the 3D modeling process can be sampled directly to a 3D printer and easily corrected and supplemented. Fourth, it was confirmed that TPU prints of about 1.00mm thickness can be sewn with fabric using sewing machines through the development of 'Prototype 1' and 'Prototype 2'; in addition, hand stitching is also possible. Fifth, as in the case of 'Prototype 3', it is possible to fabricate a garment fit enough to the body if the clothing configuration is designed to connect the basic module using TPU filaments. In the future, the development of wearable fashion prototypes using various materials and 3D printing technology will help diversify everyday clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1068-1078
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze the production process of 12 domestic companies that manufacture women's knitwear and the degree of satisfaction of the middle-anged women who purchase knitted Jacket. Three hundred questionnaires were distributed and a total of 276 usable data were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics (frequency and one way- ANOVA test) by using SPSSWIN 10.1. It was found that the price satisfaction of knitted jacket was low because of imported yarn and production methods(i .e., 1inking, sewing, etc.). Therefore, it is necessary to develop that domestic yam and improve production methods. Another finding ot the study demonstrated that the size of knitted jacket was a little tight for the middle-aged women on the circumstance size(i.e., bust, waist, etc.) while majority of the respondents felt that the areas such as sleeve and shoulder seemed a little bit longer than their size. It should be designed in such that the physical characteristics of knitted materials are considered when pattern is made. Clothing companies should make an effort to effort more information about the knitted jacket and develop pattern suitable for the body shape of the middle-aged women.