Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Influence of Anti-Form in Contemporary Fashion - Focusing on Physicality -

현대 패션에 표현된 안티포름의 영향 - 물질성을 중심으로 -

  • Received : 2012.08.20
  • Accepted : 2012.11.25
  • Published : 2013.06.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Using the premise that fashion and art reflects the characteristics of its times, this study examines the influence of Anti-form in fashion with a focus on physicality. This study combines literary survey and case analysis of both Anti-form in 1960s and 1970s and the fashion collections since 1970s when the influence of Anti-form began to appear in fashion. The influence of Anti-form focusing on physicality is summarized as deconstruction of garment and visualization of the physicality of material. Deconstruction of garment visualizes the invisible structures of garment by deconstructing, restructuring, and deforming the construction and the shapes of the garment, which is illustrated by visualization of design process, overlapping and fusing of materials, loss of stitches, and use of fabrics with flaws, questioning and destroying the sartorial conventions and aesthetic standards. Visualization of the physicality of material exposes the imperfect inside of garment which is concealed conventionally by presenting unfinished garments with minimized sewing procedure, crumpling and flattening fabrics, rubbing and fading surfaces, pulling threads, as well as using the selvages of fabrics.

Keywords

References

  1. McDowell, C. (2004), The new art?, Costume, 38, pp. 131-132.
  2. Geczy, A. & Karaminas, V. eds. (2012), Fashion and art, London.New York: Berg, p. 1.
  3. Mitchell, L. (2005), The cutting edge: Fashion from Japan. Sydney: Powerhouse Publishing, p. 29
  4. Morris, R. (1968. 4), Anti-form, Artforum, pp. 33-35.
  5. 임은혁 (2013), 현대 패션에 표현된 안티포름의 영향 - 시간성을 중심으로-, 복식, 63(3), pp. 78-94. https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.078
  6. Archer, M. (2007), 1960년대 이후의 현대미술, 오진경, 이주은 역, 서울: 시공사, p. 73.
  7. Archer, M. (2007), 1960년대 이후의 현대미술, 오진경, 이주은 역, 서울: 시공사, p. 75.
  8. Lucie-Smith, E. (2002), 20세기 시각예술, 김금미 역, 서울: 예경, p. 329.
  9. Archer, M. (2007), 1960년대 이후의 현대미술, 오진경, 이주은 역, 서울: 시공사, p. 78.
  10. Karmel, P. (1989), Robert Morris: The felt works, New York: Grey Art Gallery & Study Center, p. 4.
  11. Pincus-Witten, R. (1977), Post-minimalism, New York: Out of London Press, p. 33.
  12. Lucie-Smith, E., (2002), 20세기 시각예술, 김금미 역, 서울: 예경, p. 330.
  13. Panofsky, E. (1968), Idea, Peake, J. J. S. 역, Columbia: University of South California Press, p. 24.
  14. Panofsky, E. (1968), Idea, Peake, J. J. S. 역, Columbia: University of South California Press, p. 28.
  15. Bachelard, G. (1973), 물과 꿈-물질과 상상력에 관한 시론, 이가림 역, 서울: 문예출판사, p. 6.
  16. Lippard, L. R. (1973), Six years: The dematerialization of the art object from 1966 to 1972, Berkeley.Los Angeles.London: University of California Press, pp. 45-46.
  17. Morris, R. (1969. 4), Notes on sculpture, part IV: Beyond object, Artforum, pp. 50-54.
  18. 정응람 (1993), 바슐라르-상상력의 철학, 한국논단, 48, p. 229.
  19. 이현주 (2008), '물질적 상상력(Material-Imagination)'과 회화 이미지에 관한 연구, 대구카톨릭대학교 석사학위논문, p. 16.
  20. Lippard, L. R. (1973), Six years: The dematerialization of the art object from 1966 to 1972, Berkeley.Los Angeles.London: University of California Press, p. 46.
  21. Morris, R. (1968. 4), Anti-form, Artforum, p. 188.
  22. 자료검색일 2012. 6. 18, http://www.saatchigallery.com/aipe/robert_morris.htm
  23. 자료검색일 2012. 6. 18, http://aliciachester.wordpress.com/tag/moma
  24. 자료검색일 2012. 6. 18, http://www.moma.org/explore/multimedia/audios/46/944
  25. Serra, R. (1994), Writings, interviews, Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, p. 114.
  26. Serra, R. (1994), Writings, interviews, Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, p. 3.
  27. 자료검색일 2012. 6. 18, http://www.moma.org/collection/object.php?object_id=101902
  28. Foster, H. (2000), Richard Serra, Cambridge: MIT Press, p. 106.
  29. Dimant, E. (2010), Minimalism and fashion: Reduction in the postmodern era, New York: Harper Design, p. 106.
  30. Foster, H. (2000), Richard Serra, Cambridge: MIT Press, p. 116.
  31. Krauss, R. (1977), 현대 조각의 흐름, 윤난지 역, 서울: 예경, p. 322.
  32. Gill, A. (1998), Deconstruction fashion: The making of unfinished, decomposing and re-assembled clothes, Fashion Theory, 2(1), pp. 25-49. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270498779754489
  33. Turney, J. (2009), The culture of knitting, New York: Berg, p. 108.
  34. Spindler, A. M. (1993. 7. 25), Coming Apart, New York Times, Styles section, pp. 1, 9.
  35. Cunningham, B. (1990), Fashion du Siecle, Details 8, pp. 177-300.
  36. MoMu (2008), Martin Margiela 20: The exhibition, Antwerp: MoMu, p. 48.
  37. Spilker, K. D., & Takeda, S. S. (2007), Breaking the mode, Milano: Skira, p. 179.
  38. 자료검색일 2012. 7. 15, http://www.firstviewkorea.co m/Collection/PhotoImageViewPop.aspx?Season=SS00 4&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=703&Cat e=CC001
  39. Martin, R., & Koda, H. (1993), Infra-apparel, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, p. 97.
  40. Vinken, B. (2005), Fashion zeitgeist, New York: Berg, p. 64.
  41. Dresner, L., Hilberry, S., & Miro, M. eds. (2008), ReFusing fashion: Rei Kawakubo, Detroit: Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit, p. 30.
  42. Yamamoto, Y. (2002), Taking to myself, Milano: Carla Sozzani Editore, CD-ROM.
  43. 자료검색일 2012. 7. 25, http://www.firstviewkorea.co m/Collection/PhotoImageViewPop.aspx?Season=SS01 8&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=293
  44. 자료검색일 2012. 7. 25, http://www.firstviewkorea.co m/Collection/PhotoImageViewPop.aspx?Season=SS01 2&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=293
  45. 자료검색일 2012. 7. 25, http://www.firstviewkorea.co m/Collection/PhotoImageViewPop.aspx?Season=SS01 7&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=293
  46. Turney, J. (2009), The culture of knitting, New York: Berg, p. 112.
  47. Turney, J. (2009), The culture of knitting, New York: Berg, p. 113.
  48. Dresner, L., Hilberry, S., & Miro, M. eds. (2008), ReFusing fashion: Rei Kawakubo, Detroit: Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit, p. 78.
  49. Martin, R., & Koda, H. (1993), Infra-apparel, New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, p. 99.
  50. Dirix, E. et al. (2011), Unravel: Knitwear in fashion, Tielt: Lannoo Publishers, p. 78.
  51. Hodge, B. et al. eds. (2006), Skin+bones: Parallel practices in fashion and architecture, London: Thames & Hudson, p. 34.
  52. Spilker, K. D., & Takeda, S. S. (2007), Breaking the mode, Milano: Skira, p. 38.
  53. 자료검색일 2012. 7. 15, http://www.firstviewkorea.co m/Collection/PhotoImageViewPop.aspx?Season=SS00 3&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=231
  54. 자료검색일 2012. 7. 15, http://www.firstviewkorea.co m/Collection/PhotoImageViewPop.aspx?Season=SS00 3&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=293
  55. 자료검색일 2012. 7. 22, http://www.firstviewkorea.co m/Collection/PhotoImageViewPop.aspx?Season=SS01 1&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=218

Cited by

  1. 현대미술과 패션에 나타난 섬유 및 소재의 물질성 vol.64, pp.5, 2013, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2014.64.5.050