• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.99-112
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• 2008

The aim of the study was to look into the construction methods of historical corsetry and compare them with the construction methods of corsetry today. Through a comparative study, it was concluded that the design, material, sewing and functions of corsetry of a certain period are sum of the clothing techniques and fashion of the time. Corset was first appeared at the end of the 16th century. It has been through many changes in terms of items, materials, patterns, sewing methods in order to make right silhouettes of the time. Now corsetry has been developed into various items such as waist nipper, all-in-one, nipper bra, and girdle. All these items have a common purpose, that is to improve the body shape. The corsetry of the past was made of non stretchable materials, so they used to restrict body movements, and required individual fitting several times. Due to the development of thin durable stretchable fabrics, functional bones, and advanced sewing machines, construction methods of seam, hem and opening are simplified compare to their predecessors. Consequently corsetry became less weighted, easy to wear, easy to wash and easy to mass produce. Yet they have consistency in sewing techniques such as using bones or wires to support bodice shape, using durable twill fabrics over plain for attractive body shapes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.1-11
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• 1985

The purpose of this study was to research the effect of sewing threads on sewability. The materials used in this study were cotton threads, p/c spun thread, polyester spun thread and core-spun thread, which were the same in count, but different in fibers. In order to approach the purpose of this study, the change of sew-ability was measured according to the number of laundering. The results from this measure were as follows; 1. The order of seam strength according to the sewing threads was polyester spun threads, p/c spun thread, core-spun thread, and cotton thread in proportion to the loop strength of the sewing threads. The preserving rate of strength after laundering was the highest in core spun thread. 2. The order of seam elongation according to the sewing threads was polyester spun thread, p/c spun thread, core-spun thread and cotton thread in proportion to the elongation of the sewing threads. The preserving rate of elongation after laundering was the highest in core spun thread. 3. The order of seam puckering according to the sewing threads' was core-spun thread, p/c spun thread, polyester spun thread and cotton thread. The order of changing rate after laundering was the same as the former order. 4. The order of the needle temperature according to the sewing threads was polyester spun thread, core-spun thread, p/c spun thread and cotton thread.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.96-111
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• 2002

The aim of this study was to suggest appropriate factors for production pattern making of women's clothing. Sample pattern designers and production patterners of 13 women's brands were individually interviewed about pattern making process and factors necessary. The results were as follows: The factors to be considered in pattern making were categorized in three groups. 1. Factors to be considered to achieve the correct use of specific materials: elasticity, shrinkage, lining and interlining 2. Factors to be considered to satisfy the design specifications: silhouette, dart distribution, collar and sleeve, trimming 3. Factors to be considered for better sewing quality: skillfulness of the sewer, sewing methods and sewing equipment. 4. Suggestions were made for appropriate factors. A focus-group-interview in pattern design has been interviewed to verify the suggested factors. The factors were presented as a guide to develop the production pattern. 5. For better usage of the factors, standardization were suggested for making process with necessary factors for jacket, skirt.

• Journal of Sensor Science and Technology
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.67-70
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• 2021

A new button-shaped electrical device was developed for a smart fabric. This electric button can be sewn anywhere on the garment, similar to a traditional button fastener. t not only performs a decorative function but also makes the fabric suitable for use in Internet of Things (IoT) applications. It has metallic through-holes such that it can be fastened onto a fabric by conductive sewing threads. When threaded through metallic holes, the button can communicate with the external device by transmitting and receiving data. In addition, it adds specific functions by stacking a detachable application layer on the base layer. It is robust to frequent washing, and thus has excellent repeatability for use as an IoT device. The feasibility of the electric button was successfully demonstrated by its ability to identify the physical activities of walking and running, monitoring ambient temperature, and turning on LED lights.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.179-188
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• 2019

Domestic apparel products labeled as 'Made in Korea' in the Chinese market are recognized as a high quality products due to the influence of the Korean Wave (Intergen Consulting Group, 2007). This study analyzes the patterns and order arrangement types of a fashion brand company commissioned to produce apparel in Seoul, Korea in order to rebuild a network of small sewing factories scattered in Korea, reorganize operations, and to find the possibility of regenerating the Korean sewing industry by establishing contact points with domestic sewing factories. We surveyed 100 apparel brand companies in Seoul listed in the 2014/2015 Korea Fashion Brand Annual (Apparel News, 2014) and conducted a questionnaire survey on the company's general management status, type of fabric materials dealt with, and major contact points and methods of production handling. The frequency analysis indicated that the main production material with cloth type was woven fabric with ladies' clothes. The Planning MD team has the highest rate of ordering production with delivery method to the production factory after purchasing fabric and trims. Most respondents answered that they would select a production factory based on recommendations from acquaintances. This was due to a lack of no objective indicator provided by the sewing factory at present and the absence of objectively proceeded communication with brand companies. In this study, we analyze various conditions and measurements for production arrangements from a fashion brand company to revitalize sewing factories in Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1510-1519
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• 2007

This comparative study analyzes and compares tight skirt sewing methods which are found in the clothing configuration reference text books available in contemporary universities and which are used in commercially-available domestic consumer products. The study samples included 15 text books and 12 tight skirt consumer products of different brands on sale at three department stores in Seoul each of which had a belt, a back-centered zipper, and back double slits. The findings of the study are summarized as follows: First, text books mainly show very basic sewing methods of using zippers on both sides of the straight-lined waist belt. This indicates that it is necessary for such methods to be complemented so that they cover a recent variety of designs, materials, and sewing machines. For consumer products, the main sewing method is to use a curved waist belt and a console zipper in silhouette running across half the hipbone. Second, consumer products employ three different types of cutting and sewing methods for putting an inseam on the center of the back slit part: to leave the whole inseam hemmed in the back center, to cut the left side of the inseam to the upper part of the back slit, and to cut the inseam to both the upper parts of the back slit. However, a method shown in most of the sampled text books is to cut the inseam of the back center to both the upper parts of the back slit. Third, the way of finishing a bottom edge hem in the text books is to do slip-stitch, herringbone stitch, and slinting hemming, in order after doing over-lock stitch, or to cut the hem on the bias and then slip-stitch, while for the consumer products the most frequently used sewing method is to finish the bottom edge hem by doing secoui-stitch. Finally, while in the text books the method of stitching darts and tucks is used for lining, the main lining method used in consumer products is to make tucks only. Also in the way of stitching the side seams of lining or the seams of the back center, there is a difference between the two sample groups of text books and the consumer products: while the former suggests using both open seams and over-lock stitch, the latter is found to finish the seams using an over-lock stitch only.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.472-480
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• 2005

It was proved the practical use of the unique traditional Korean paper through the previous researches. The purpose of this study was to suggest the adequate application which is making various applied patterns in the fashion products so as to contribute to textile, fashion, and Korean paper industry. Six kinds of vests with the same fashion material using the Korean traditional paper were manufactured in order to investigate the images of materials in case of wearing them on the actual human bodies. As the results of image assessment for the materials and the factor analysis, 'classical', 'natural', 'Korean traditional', 'rural' and 'luxury' images were presented as the representative image of the Korean traditional paper material. Making repeated patterns of stripes and zigzag by sewing-machine stitches showed the natural effect on Korean traditional paper. Well-matched harmony was shown between holes made by the needle in sewing and slits torn by the tension to the needle and the thread. Especially, transparency by irregular holes formed by artificial frictional washing could shown special formative arts harmoniously with semi-transparency of Korea traditional paper and touch of sewing yarn. After the unripe persimmon dyeing, holes made by the needle became more hard and tight. The changes were no longer shown by the artificial frictional washing and then fixed. As the result of applying the Korean traditional paper fashion materials with various patterns for the basic formed garments, it was shown that the common and simple garments were changed the garments with special formation which could be found on the art garments due to the creative touch and formative arts using the Korea traditional paper fashion material. A variety of formative application by means of the developed samples was suggested to enlarge the practicality. As the result of this study, it was discovered that the possibility and application of fashion goods through the developed samples made of Korean traditional paper.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.102-111
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to present the basic material for the competitive, high-quality products by analyzing employees' attitude toward their job and some factors which influence the enhancement of productivity, education of workers, and facilities. This project was mainly conducted the conditions of women's wear manufacturing industries in Taegu by interviewing 143 employees in the sewing department. The result of this dissertation can be summarized as follows; 1. When it comes to the division of task in the sewing department, one team is composed of chairpersons (33.5%), assistant members (27.4%) and sub-assistant members (26.6%). The inspection of commodities as well as the enhancement of work on ironing for elaboration was divided as completion (12.6%) and finally the forms of task were made up of design sampling team (49%) and contracting team (51%). 2. Among the needle workers, as many as 60% employees had received technical education, which was by means of being passed down from the predecessors (81.6%). In terms of the period of education, from 2 to 5 years topped the list. The contents of education comprise patterning, sewing (65.2%) and ironing (20.3%). 3. The department of design takes charge of the report on working directions up to 88.2% and the working directions were used by 69.9 % of technicians. The directors of working conditions and methods were chiefs of designing department (37.7%) and those of sewing department (30.8%). The factors of defective goods were low-quality materials (50.0%), the deficiency in skills of workers. In terms of methods for preventing defects, technical education of workers, standardization of task and investment for factory automation were suggested. 4. As for their perception of present work, most of employees (80%) look upon it as a way of earning a living and 11% of them wanted to derive many things from their work. 59.2% of workers were satisfied with the product. When it comes to the incentive system provided by company, 67.0% responsed that it was not bad, and 23.9% evaluated it as 'satisfactory'.

• Advanced Composite Materials
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.135-149
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• 2007

In the automobile industry, structural health monitoring of fiber reinforced polymer composite parts is a widespread need for maintenance before breakdown of the functional elements or a complete vehicle. High performance sensors are generally used in many of the structural health monitoring operations. Within this study, a carbon fiber sewing thread has been used as a low cost laminate failure sensing element. The experimentation plan was set up according to the electrical conductance and flexibility of carbon fiber threads, advantages of preforming operations, and sewing mechanisms. The influence of the single thread damages by changing the electrical resistance and monitoring the impact location by using carbon thread sensors has been performed. Innovative utilization of relatively cost-effective carbon threads for monitoring the delamination of metallic inserts from the basic composite laminate structure is a highlighting feature of this study.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.1
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• pp.257-272
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• 2001