Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.39
no.2
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pp.204-216
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2015
Fashion is changing and evolving everyday with an influence from and over contemporary socio-cultural factors. Cartoons expressing the phenomena of times through exchanges of mutual effects with socio-cultural factors that result from functionality and media characteristics. This study examines how fashion provides a great correlation with society-culture expressed in cartoons. The research segment of this study was conducted with literature and case studies; in addition, the UK cartoon magazine "Punch" was selected for the case study. The research findings of the fashion satire expression in cartoon were divided into 2 cases. The first case is that fashion was used as an instrument to satirize socio-cultural phenomena in cartoons. Various fashion elements (hats, dresses, words on T-shirts) were used for satiric expressions and to express periodic images related to politics, economics, society and culture. It communicated factually or criticized noteworthy phenomenon or age changes through the symbolism of fashion. The second case is that fashion itself is the object of satire in a cartoon. It satirically described the blind following and destruction of stereotype as direct objects. Fashion satire appeared in cartoons regardless of a correlation with age. Each cartoon fashion satire had meaning in both humor and criticism for satirizing the age. This study shows that fashion symbolism for satire of the reality has been used as the instrument of expression and simultaneously expressed as the object of the critique as an image and phenomenon that reflects reality. This study has significance in that it examined expressive modes of fashion satire in cartoons that escape from separating fashion from cartoon as a different area.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.31
no.5
s.164
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pp.777-787
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2007
The purpose of this study is to consider various characteristics in the graffiti-look in the modem fashion by interpreting meanings and properties of graffiti, transferred from street art to a new main stream in art. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The first characteristic is satire. The graffiti-look conveys directly or indirectly with phrase or symbol various messages of politics, social ideology, wealth and poverty, environmental pollution, anti-war, etc. Body is even more used for graffitiand designers express freely their identity or ideology through the formative style of graffiti. The second characteristic is pleasure. Fantastic expressions from a fairy-tale or fable in the graffiti-look give humor meaning freedom and sense of liberation in a sense of catharsis to the modem people's emotion. The graffiti-look uses graffiti works to introduce its original message of humanism, happiness, humor, etc. to clothing; as a result, the graffiti-look features pleasure. The third characteristic iscommercial application. Brand logo designed by graffiti style is decorated with clothing, accessory, or ornament. This may not only emphasize brand name through lingual function of graffiti, but also be used for a distinctive marketing strategy against other brands. Logo which is regarded motive or pattern of design leaves a image instead of a meaning and performs a design function stressing formative sense.
The Hanryu(韓流) phenomenon in and around Asia looks like slowing down lately. At that time, the research about contents that can inform the high traditional culture of Korea is useful. The references which can make a study about cultural clothes, especially paintings, let us to infer the life of the people of that period. In this research, I try to study the characteristics of customs, symbol and costumes by analyzing the paintings of Shin, Yun-Bok who was genre painter of the late Chosun. The mens are wearing dopo(道袍) and are putting sejodae(細條帶) around their waists and gat(黑笠). Also, We can see many different types of job such police, official man, a buddhist priest, a barmair, kisaeng and shaman through the costume. Most of women in the paintings, They are wearing Deep blue skirts, banhwoejang pale tone jeogori and tress. We discussed the common lives of the people through genre painting. They have satire, humor, and symbolism. Also, we can look into the various lifestyles, customs of times and seasons, ceremonial occasions, civilian beliefs, and plays ransmitted from the past. The philosophy in Shin, Yun- Bok's genre painting, is close to Taoism not Confucianism.
Entertainment Industry is a high value-added business and its market includes the whole world. With high-tech industry, it is said that entertainment industry strengthen country's competitiveness, and the Korean government is trying to find a way to develop the animation industry. Some domestic feature animations were made, but they failed to get sufficient audiences. Meanwhile, Shrek 2, made by PDI, has earned about 92,000,000,000$ through just theatrical revenue. The reason is that domestic animations are not exciting. Contents should have amusement in it. The humor is the most important thing to make fun. So this thesis suggest to analyse Humor Types in animations. It is based on several theories about Humor. The types of humor defined by the previous studies are summarized into (1) humor, (2) wit, (3) satire and (4) irony. I categorize the productive methods of visual humor into (1) visual pun, (2) visual parody and (3) visual paradox adopting Henri Bergson's theory of the production methods of humor. And I comment on humorous scenes of Shrek in points of design basic elements, such as (1) visual elements, (2) relational elements and (3) practical elements. And I classify humor responses into the incongruity theory, the superiority theory, and relief theory. Therefore this study suggest a reasoned method to categorize the humor types effectively for producing or analyzing various types of humor effects in animation fields.
The purpose of this study is to expand satirical expressions that appear in a wide range of arts into fashion and to analyse and present satirical expressions that appear in contemporary fashion through the collections of Thom Browne. Theoretical examination of satirical concepts were made of domestic and foreign academic theses, dissertations, precious studies, and publications related to satire. Analysis was conducted on cases in which satirical expressions were applied in literature, painting, sculpture, and fashion. Based on these studies, analysis was conducted on satirical expressions appearing in Thom Browne's work. Material was gathered from collection reviews, interview articles, professional books, and internet photo material from professional fashion magazines encompassing 16 years of Thom Browne's collections officially recorded in the international fashion magazine 'Vogue', ranging from the 2006 S/S collection to the 2021 S/S collection. From this, a total of 1,753 photos were collected as data. Characteristics of satirical expression were analyzed and the results were as follows. A fluid reconstruction of 'gender fluid', dual meanings of metaphorical allegories, playful expressions of visual wit, constructions made of overlapped disassembled material, and borrowing of morphological distortion were all identified. Accordingly, satirical approaches as social aspects and objects in the flow of modern thought appear as positive forms based in humor that hope to be improved. This study anticipate the concept of satire will expand into a positive form as a new direction of fashion.
The aim of this study is to examine various life conditions of actors of Joseon periods in unofficial historical stories. Yadam Literature(Korean unofficial historical stories) had been collected Sadaebu(the past Korean nobility and Confucian intelligentsia) among the people that stories had been handed down orally. and they had been wrote them. So Yadam Literature was heterozygous between the folk culture and the ruling class. And it was mixed and adapted legends and folktales, adding literary imagination. had a decisive role to cultivating novel that owed much to prosaic inspiration during A. D. 18~19. Besides, set a high value on excellent novel itself. Yadam Literature had a verisimilitude because it described a contemporary reality as it was founded on freely prosaic inspiration. In those days, so called Suchok and Seunggwangdae had performed Uhee(a comic theatrical performance) in Joseon periods. Suchok was the lowest class of people and Seunggwangdae was performing Buddhist monk in that time. Uhee had performed three kinds of comedies. One satirized and insinuated kings. Other satirized corrupt officials, too. Another had mimic everything. It is famous at that time as a king knew repertoire. Confucian scholars very were fond of Uhee in those ages. Because they favored a criticism of Uhee's satire. They thought that it gave people good lesson or instruction. Heri Bergson said that comic and Humor included lesson. At that time, those thought were universal in the world whether east or west. At any rate, I classify six kinds of types Uhee in Yadam Literature. First, satirizing and accusing corrupt officials. Second, an actor who use a satire in order to appeal secure a government position of his lord to a king. Third, shamans and actors who use a satire in order to appeal sufferings themselves to a king. Forth, actors and performing Buddhist monks that skillfully mimic anything. Fifth, describing actor's extremely miserable life. Sixth, wit and humor of actors. The contents of Uhee were various. Korean traditional actors adeptly dealt with aspects comic of wit, satire, humor, etc. Sometimes they used changeable transition them. By doing that, a great number of people enjoyed fully the sense of freedom. Korean traditional actors were the lowest class of people. They had lived extremely miserable life. But they had been exist as actions, interactions, and relationship in society those days. they were not only open to people, but also might foster community to peoples.
As a fresh trial using humorous items to escape from economic recession and uncertain state of mind regarding politics and society, fun is emerging as a keyword in design area. This study classified various use of fun reflected in modern fashion design according to the theme, and analyzed the mod of expression to identify formative characteristics. Through these processes, this study built conceptual structure of fun in fashion design. 412 fashion designs which represent fun were collected from 2001 $S/S{\sim}2005$ F/W collections. Data were analyzed and categorized. Results showed that the theme of fun in the modern fashion design could be classified into humor, kidult, irony, satire/parody, storytelling, and play. The design elements mainly used were color silhouette, letter, object, and drawing, while the design principles were distortion/exaggeration, incongruity, and repetition. In addition, these expressions were related to the traditional humor theory: incongruity-resolution, superior, and relief theories. The fun in modern fashion design has such value as affirmation, warmness, entertainment, youth, contradiction, surprise, deviate, allusion, attack, and description, Finally, in regard to the subject, the fun provides active experience like play as well as passive acceptance.
The Yangbanchum was reconstructed based on mask play that had been handed down in Goseong, Gyeongsangnam-do, Korea. Talnori, called Goseong Ogwangdae, is a Korean folk cultural heritage designated as National Important Intangible Cultural Property No. 57. This mask play provides catharsis to the audience by unraveling the hypocrisy and lies of the aristocrats through satire and humor. Our performance team, the ensemble Better Than Medicine (eBTM) used a large fan (Boochae)to create a performance that blew away anxiety and pain. Watching this performance, the performer and the audience feel the consensus of sharing emotions and send strong bonds and support to each other. This study provides that Yangbanchum dance promotes the mental health by feeling emotional sharing through vicarious satisfaction and mirror effect.
Decentralization is an effort to liberalize people from its character of neutralizing or restraining people while indwelling in the previous thought system. Decentralization in fashion is one of the phenomenon of post-modernism fashion, and it is closely related to de-culturalism, crossover, abolition of rank, and etc, and it is in line with Asian look which includes orientalism fashion. The study intends to consider the Phenomenon of Decentralization of Asian Look and its Method depicted in the western fashion. The study focuses on documentary data, and the it is held with the basis of Asian look shown in western fashion. If ideology which influenced the formation of folk costume of Asia, Asian look is the dissolution of such ideology, and post-modern amusement is substituting it. The most conspicuous characteristic of decentralization phenomena of Asian look is pastiche which is a combination and reallocation of external style of many cultural zones and many folk costumes, and it shows mutual irrelevance, and it is a neutral imitation which has internal meaning and humor disappeared. Also, Asian look shows characteristics of parody and irony, which are reversal characteristics of aesthetic value which is expressed through methods of addition, modification, distortion, exaggeration, inversion, dissolution, and etc. Parody which is expressed through imitation regarding previous style shows effect of humor or satire, but its characteristics show that it expresses respect or admiration regarding the original The method of irony is showing sarcasm with ironical method regarding the peculiar style of Asian folk costume, and it pursues unexpected shock and joy, and it is closely related to orientalism fashion. Expansion and constancy of Asian look reflects the interest regarding folk of Asia and Asia, and it is a movement which intends new attempt by abolishing stereotype, and furthermore, it is expressing liberty of humans.
Grotesque make-up causes a visual shock among modern people beyond the standardized beauty definition, attracts their attention, and manifests itself as a phenomenon of "something bizarre, extremely unnatural, ugly, and funny." The purposes of this study were to investigate the characteristics of grotesque in today's make-up as well as its concepts and features and to figure out its aesthetic characteristics based on the results. The research scope was limited to the fashion make-up of the collections from 2005 to 2010 and the advertising make-up during the same period. In the make-up phenomenon examined according to the grotesque characteristics, the pale skin expression, frightened eyes, and emphasis on black induce disgusting fear, sadness, death, sin, fear for life and death, and obsession. As the make-up emphasized only one part by neglecting the original form and exaggerated it to the point of distortion, the exaggerated abnormality led to a sense of social crisis, desperation, and absence of form. As for devilish playfulness, the make-up accompanied by grotesqueness and humor brought the suppressed, closed world in a tight framework out to fluidity and openness, conveying satire, ludicrousness, ridicule, and accusation of the modern society. The heterogeneous disharmony was found in the use of objects in heterogeneous combinations, presenting unreality, fiction, displeasure, ambivalence, and loss of value of human existence.
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