• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1502-1513
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to find relations between construction factors and adaptability on the 5 available raglan sleeve patterns through the drafting method. Also it was to suggest a functional sleeve pattern according to appearance and adaptability test. Three women in her twenties who have standard figure was selected as subjects. Raglan sleeves of 5 experimental clothes were rated by the appearance test and adaptability test. The major conclusions of this study are as follows. 1. The construction factors of the raglan sleeve are sleeve slant, sleeve cap height, biceps line, breast width. Bicep lines increased and sleeve cap height decreased as the sleeve slant decreased. The higher adaptability scores of raglan sleeves were, the lower sleeve slants were. 2. According to the appearance evaluation, B type was recorded the highest score 3. According to the adaptability scores, A type was recorded the highest score. In the pulled length of the waist-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern type. In the pulled length of the sleeve-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern types. Therefore A type was evaluated by the bort functional sleeve pattern type. Through the experiments, it was known that appearance and adaptability of the raglan sleeve patterns were effected by construction factor.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.471-482
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to produce slacks pattern for pregnant women in the mid or second half period of their pregnancy according to the development figure of the body shell from a follow-up measurement. We here would like to produce slacks pattern for pregnant women constructed to fit better with their individual property in their figure and to help maintain the shape and beauty of the lower half of body and would compare it with two manufactured slacks pattern. The results of the study were as follows; 1. As the pregnancy proceeds, the height of natural-waist line went up spontaneously due to the projection of abdominal region, therefore, it was given darts at the front zipper part so that they could maintain a nice figure and to avoid possibility of feeling oppressed. To acquire a slimmer outfit, we made of the slacks-bottom narrower than the width at the knee line, and it worked out. 2. Sensory evaluation for appearance: According to the statistical of the result of 19items on the questionaire, all items showed significant difference(a$\leq$0.01) between the new and A(bunka) B(Kim's pattern) method slacks pattern, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted, to fit the shape of bodies properly and to get a visual effect to look slim.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.950-962
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop the slim-fit dress shirt pattern. Among the published educational patterns, there were four patterns based on similar design and silhouette with slim-fit dress shirts. Then, the drafting method of those patternsBB were compared and analyzed. The subjects for wearing evaluation were three 20 to 39 aged average-sized men. After the wearing evaluation(5 Likert point scale), N pattern had been chosen as the final comparison pattern because it received the highest points. The slim-fit shirt pattern was developed based on the result of wearing evaluation. The foundation design were as following: shirt length (Stature/2-12), back length (Stature/4), armhole depth (Chest/4+1), width (Chest/4+3), Interscye; Back (Chest/6+5), Interscye; Front (Chest/6+4), width of the nape of neck (Neck/6+1=◎), height of the nape of neck (◎/3), of the front neck (◎-0.5), depth of the front neck(◎+1.5). After the wearing evaluation about researched pattern and N pattern, researched patternsBB scale points were bigger than N pattern and there were slight differences. The scale points for N patternsBB movement evaluation showed highest points on all contents. Therefore, the researched pattern is suitable for the original form of slim-fit dress shirt. The new dress shirt pattern reflected the slim-fit trend in the research expected to help educational environment and industrial site.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.10
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• pp.97-109
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• 2001

It is thought that a composition of trousers is related to fabrics with single breadth. Therefore, trousers are designed with pattern using this fabrics with single breadth. However, in the old pattern of trousers, the breadth of 33cm-35cm was not considered in designing patterns. In this context, deciding which pattern design is better is not easy as there are a variety of estimation methods. So in this study, standardization of drafting is pursued by an objective pattern design. For this, a base angle of the trouser closely relating to a form and function was measured and using the height and the base angle, a trouser pattern design was tried. For a measurement of the base angle, 5 subject were selected. They are 25-29 year-old male graduates with fine physical standard. The base angle was measured with symphysis pubis point as a standard when subjects sat with their legs crossed, when they stood with their legs open (not forced artificially) and when they laid down with their legs open. The distance between a knee inside joint and knees was measured three times and the resultant value was used for the pattern design. For a design of trousers, the height was applied and the base angle was fixed. As a pattern drawing, using the height, a base angle and circumference of the hip, a trouser was designed. The production method for the pattern design is as follow: (1) The length formula, is height + $\frac{height}{2}$ (2) The hip girth formula is $\frac{hipgirth}{2}$ - $\frac{hipgirth}{20}$(3) A crotch angle is fixed at $72^{\circ}$. (4) The ratio of outer leg length to leg width is 5 : 8. (5) The component ratio of the upper outer leg length to the pant length is 5 : 8. (6) The ratio of the division point of front right inner leg length and left inner width to upper outer leg length is 5 : 8.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1109-1120
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• 2009

This study develops a fitted torso type basic pattern for men by utilizing 3D body scan data. Recent fashion trends are reflected in the development of the pattern. The subjects were 15 men in their 20's, who wear size 95 (M size). Body scan data was obtained through a 3D whole body scanner (WB4, Cyberware, USA), and a body surface development figure for developing male fitted torso type basic pattern was attained through the use of Rapid Form 2006 as well as Auto CAD 2006 programs. The results are as follows: A body surface development figure through body surface segment method showed high exactitude in an error range of 100$\pm$1%. In addition, it occurred in an error range of 100:1:3% because of the hard scanning conditions in the incline of the shoulder and armpit areas. However, the body surface development figure as well as the direct measurement results can be used as basic data for the given patternmaking since the error range falls into 100$\pm$3%. Dart amounts obtained from the average cross section were center back 2.2cm (24.3%), back armpit point 3.8cm (41.8%), front armpit point 3.0cm (33.9%). As shown the jacket pattern, the biggest dart amount was portioned out at the back armpit point. The drafting equations for the development pattern acquired are as follows; Full width=C/2+5cm, back length=height/4-1cm, armhole depth=(C/10+12cm)+3cm, back width=2C/10+2cm, front width=2C/10. The development pattern was a fitted torso basic pattern that was composed of 3 pieces, so it would be very useful in developing shirt or jacket patterns. According to the results of the evaluation of the developed pattern appearance, it obtained higher scores of over 3.5 points in almost items, meaning that the developed pattern is appropriate for a male fitted torso type basic pattern. It suggests a possibility of patternmaking from a body surface development figure in 2-D to prototype.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.56-68
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• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.17-27
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• 1999

According to the design method for constructing the Korean Men's Jo-go-ri(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic pattern Jo-go-ri, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip(Dongjung) was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symmetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar(Kit) and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the two sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since there is no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial regulation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment, can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the basic pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the Jo-go-ri's girth, length end neck width is fixed at 70(72) degree. 2) The radius of the cone is sleeve length. 3) The bust girth calculation formula is B/4 + 2.5 cm. 4) The armhole formula is B/4 + 2.5cm. 5) The neck width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction{width of collar(Kit) + width of collar strip(Dongjung) to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius of sleeve length, that is an arc that exceeds the length of the Jo-go-ri's midsection.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.690-703
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to help user understand the basic principles and interfaces of each program, and to provide a base material for the development of more efficient apparel CAD systems to compensate for each program's shortcomings by comparing the function of three apparel CAD systems: Yuka CAD, Opti-tex, and Style CAD. For this purpose, the skirt waistband and sleeve armhole line creation process were selected based on these two criteria. 1) There is a big difference between principle and method between CAD systems. 2) When CAD system is used rather than paper drawing process, the process is shortened and convenience is high. In this study, pros and cons and supplement point of each CAD system are suggested by comparing the functions of the CAD system performing the selected drafting process by four criteria: icon, key, method, and characteristic point. As a result of the study, it was confirmed that the three CAD systems differ in the basic principle and interface environment. As a result of analyzing the skirt waistband method function, it was confirmed that the band line is formed directly on the outline of the skirt and the band dart recognition function is the most efficient function and as a result of the analyzing the sleeve armhole line method function, it was confirmed that the curve generation function using the shape of the actual curve measure and the length adjustment function through the automation of the dimension calculation is the most efficient function.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.71-89
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to design posture braces for rounded shoulders by examining characteristics of incorrect postures of rounded shoulders. The review of information in literature on rounded shoulder postures, correction exercise methods, and posture correction devices, has prompted this study to determine the design and material of a proper posture brace for rounded shoulders. In order to develop the pattern of a posture brace for rounded shoulders for women, the study carried out a comfort evaluation of the braces based on the 2D patterns through drafting method by utilizing the body measurements and relational formulae associated with the major body measurement such as bust circumference and on the 3D patterns of the brace which were obtained from 3D human model of women in their early 20s in Korea. Differences in angles were noted when 2D and 3D patterns of shoulder posture braces were compared. The side neck point was relocated farther outside in the 3D pattern to allow additional flexibility in the back-neck area, and the shoulder band was lowered by 14.8°, increasing armhole area comfort. The upper hemline of the front panel was found to rotate upward at an angle of 22.0° as the underarm point of the 3D pattern moved upwards than the underarm point of the 2D pattern, which enhanced comfort in the abdomen area. The 3D designs of shoulder posture brace was preferred in this study, as they significantly improved comfort while conducting fit evaluation compared to the 2D patterns of shoulder posture brace.