• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.23 no.2
• /
• pp.79-91
• /
• 2021

This study aims to rectify the disfigurement of bowlegged, (which means they have a gap between knees due to knee joint problems) females in their twenties through the development of pants patterns. The contents of the study are as follows: First, two types of basic pattern-making methods were selected. Two mock-ups, which were made by using these pre-selected basic patterns, were worn by three bowlegged participants and evaluated with a fit test. A basic pattern, which had good body fit was selected, which had a bubble or a wedge at in crotch area and roomy or snug upper thigh. Second, the mock-up, which was made by using the selected basic pattern, led to the outward movement of crease lines. Two types of patterns that were adjusted were evaluated through a fit test. As a result, an effective adjustment for moving the crease line to the outside or to the center was to cut along the slash line of a horizontal balance line to, but not through the crotch seam to spread the pattern at the hip. Third, three patterns were readjusted using the chosen alteration pattern, and the crotch seam and spread patterns of 1 cm, 2 cm, and 3 cm at the hip were applied. As a result of the evaluation of the fit test, three participants-the majority-showed a better fit when the spread amount in the pattern was 2 cm, although every participant did have a different gap between the knees. This study has significance in which rectifies the disfigurement of bowlegged individuals through the development of patterns for females in their twenties who are bowlegged.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.15 no.4 s.40
• /
• pp.453-461
• /
• 1991

The purpose of this research was to develop an automatic design with dialogue function in computer for pants pattern making. AutoCAD including AutoLISP was the programable software package, so AutoCAD were used basically for this research. The conclusions were like these; 1. Dialogue functions of computer allowed the designer to choose emotional elements. 2. The coordinate points needed in drafting for women's pants pattern making were suggest-ed by numerical fomula. So, if the input data of body sizes needed were used, pants patterns for person were automatically obtained as the output. 3. The several curvature parts were presented by using exponent function and the arc drawing of AutoCAD and the degree of bends were to be selected by choosing the simple parameter of algebraic function and arc AutoCAD command. 4. The program permited pattern manipulation and pattern grading of five standard sizes were presented. Also its flow chart by AutoLISP with dialogue function were presented.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.26 no.3
• /
• pp.360-376
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study was to make a pants pattern suitable for women 70 to 85 years of age, then analyze that- pattern's shape, size, appearance, fit, allowance and air gap. Participants made the pattern using 3D simulation program DC Suite version 5.1. The results suggest a design method suitable for the lower-body shapes of elderly women. In external appearance, the A-type earned the highest evaluation in all items except the allowance of the back waist and back hip. The L type earned the highest evaluation in the allowance of back waist and hips. The A-type's, back waist appeared set at an angle that did not match the body shape of an old-old aged woman in the center-back-line setting. Therefore, the pattern method of A-type combined with L-type's method of center back, produces an excellent pants pattern. Evaluation of the air gaps among patterns revealed that; the A-type showed the largest air gap in waist and hip circumference and the smallest air gap in thigh circumference. The waists, abdomen, and hip circumferences of older women often become larger while their legs become slimmer. This study accounted for those factors in determining a pattern suitable for the lower-body shape of old-old aged women. However, participants only analyzed four patterns and compared them with women 70 to 85, years of age. Therefore, it is necessary to develop industrial patterns applicable to a wide age group.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
• /
• v.23 no.7
• /
• pp.63-72
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the pants pattern of the lower body of 70-85 aged women. I tried to present excellent pants pattern that is convenient and suitable for the activities of elderly women. Through this, I tried to provide basic data necessary for making elderly women 's pants. As a result of evaluating the appearance of the pants pattern according to the body type, the fit of the type 2 was evaluated as the highest in the item except the position of the front waist line. For the objective evaluation of the 3D simulation, the air gap of the pants by the body part analysis showed that there was not much difference in the air gap around the waist circumference, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and knee circumference by applying the same drawing method and body size. However, in type 2, the air gap of thigh and knee circumference parts was larger than that of type 1 and type 3. Because type 2's legs were thin but it used same size of hemline. It was thought that it is necessary to adjust the space of front and back crotch length to 1 inch (2.54 cm) instead of 1.9 cm (3/4 inch) so that the waistline position of all three types can be set up a little to cover the abdomen. This study was conducted to investigate changes in body shape of elderly women and to develop appropriate pants patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.504-513
• /
• 2013

This study evaluates the difference of visual effect according to pant style and geometric pattern. The researcher made 28 stimuli-combination of four pant Stiles (classic, baggy, skinny, and bell-bottom) and seven geometric pattern (large vertical stripe, small vertical stripe, large horizontal stripe, small horizontal stripe, large check, small check, and hound's tooth check). The test involved 96 female college students. The stimuli were made with the i-Designer computer program. The panels tested the computer screen images of all manikins wearing pants. A 7-point scale was used to evaluate each image. For the data analysis, ANOVA and Duncan-test were applied along with an SPSS program. The results of this study are as follows. Three factors (lower-body compensation, abdomen highlight, and length compensation) influenced the visual effect pant styles and geometric patterns. The skinny style and large vertical stripe evaluated positively in elongated height and leg length and a slimmer overall body. It was shown that the vertical stripe pattern was evaluated as more positive than the horizontal stripe pattern in the visual effect; particularly, the results showed distinct aspects in the classic pants style. The mutual influence of the visual effect (according to pants style and geometric pattern) were indicated as two factors of lower-body compensation and length compensation. A more positive visual effects resulted in a higher mutual influence on pant style and geometric pattern.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.7 no.6
• /
• pp.10-20
• /
• 2003

The object of this research is to develop the designs with aesthetics and function for making the uniforms of specialty restaurants of Korean dishes in pursuit of the image of excellent dignity and its result is as follows: As for designs, this research chose the traditional image as the basic concept and made visual Korean lines, colors, and patterns. As for lines, it made visual the curve of the eaves, the straight line of polls, and the fret of windows and doors represented in architecture and applied them, as for color tones, it chose traditional 'Obangsaek', five direction colors. As for the patterns, it symbolized 4 trigrams( Geon, Gon, Gam, and Yi), the cloud pattern, also it tried to get the formative beauty from traditional patchwork wrapping cloth and windows and doors. The expectant effects on the design of Uniform are as follows: First, it offered basic clothes for male and female employees working in the hall and suggested two kinds of skirt and pants for the latter. It tried to find out both the function of pants and the female beauty of skirts by wrapping on pants to eliminate the feeling of rejection towards the style of them, the use of which have been recognized for man only in spite of many merits of them. Second, it sought for the characteristics of shape on collar, breast-tie, and fold etc. of Korean clothes and designed clothes according to each employee's role and finally emphasized their traditional aesthetics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.153-171
• /
• 2016

With the advent of smart clothing for health care and sports, the sophisticated designs with curved seams are drawing attention. One of the problems in those clothing is to determine the design curves in 2D pattern, such that it corresponds to the lines on the intended 3D body. Moreover, the difficulty increases when the original pattern needs to be changed for various sizes and body types. We compare two methods of pattern enlargement in this paper: one is the offset/projection type, and the other is the split grading type. For the enlarged pattern with offset/projection type, the 3D surface offset was first adopted to transform the standard lower body to the target larger size; next, the design lines were projected to the new 3D surface, following which the 3D pattern was developed from the newly transformed 3D surface. In the second method, the enlarged pant patterns were developed by the split grading method. Here, a 3D pattern was developed from the initial body, and then enlarged to the target size by the conventional split grading method. Two feminine pants patterns were examined by 3D virtual fitting. We observed that the 3D offset/projection pants pattern was well fitted, having an evenly distributed surplus, as compared with the sample developed using the split grading method. The difference between the two patterns were apparent at the location where several curved lines merged.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.3
• /
• pp.81-98
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information for the development of pants patterns with a high level of fit and comfort through calculating surface variations of lower body parts by movement, grouping them into factors, and analyzing how their surface variations link to one another. The achieved results will help determine essential elements for constructing pants patterns, such as key measurements of lower body parts, the amount of ease values and selection of fabrics, which should be taken into consideration for allowing better movement in clothing. The study required lower body 3D scanning of women for analysis, and 13 women between the ages of 20-24 participated in the scanning, which was done by using Artec Eva 3D scanner. Their scanned data were digitalized and converted to measure the values of their lower body surface length and girth in pre-determined positions such as walking, stair climbing and sitting on a chair. These measurements have been statistically analyzed through SPSS 21.0 to obtain the average amounts and rates of extension for each of the measurement item. Some of the highlighted study results are as follows: The surface length and girth measurements were grouped into 4 factors based on their average extension rates. The results from correlation analysis between measurement items within each factor demonstrated that common items linked to all the changes in the values of other items in the three movements. But in most cases, items were not always correlated with each other for different movements. The results also showed that there were correlations between girth measurements, length measurements, and girth and length measurements. Therefore, key measurements for daily pants should be determined within reasonable estimations between relevant measurement items, while the measurements for work pants, which often withstand certain postures or repetitive movements, may require measurement items that are appro priate for, and closely related to, certain movements or tasks.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.246-260
• /
• 2013

This research was carried out on women in their 20s and 30s who have overweight lower body. The subjects selected for this study were women a Rohrer index of 1.6 or higher, a waist circumference 78.5cm to 83.5cm, and a lower drop of at least 18cm. The aim is to propose a prototype of bi-stretch pants meeting demands for both functionality and aesthetic appeal. Various clothing patterns ease amount of the waist and hip circumferences and crotch depths and were developed. They had different crotch widths, and center back line angles. The results showed that the best pants patterns were ease 1cm to the total hip circumference. The front hip circumference was H/4-0.5cm, and the back hip circumference was H/4+1cm. The front crotch width was H/20+1cm, the back crotch width was H/10+3cm. No additional ease was given to the total waistline. The front waist circumference was W/4+0.5cm. The back waist circumference was W/4-0.5cm. The knee circumference was set at 44cm, the pant hem width was set at 36cm, and the pant length was set at 100cm-5cm. The findings of this research can be used as basic data for stretch pants that fit the abdomen, hips, and thighs for women in their 20s and 30s with overweight lower body.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.820-835
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide a basic pattern to assist in the development of formal pants that reflect the physical characteristics of women with lower-body obesity. The subjects selected for this study were women in their 20s and 30s with a Rohrer index of 1.6 or higher, a waist circumference 78.5cm to 83.5cm, and a lower drop of at least 18cm. The experimental pants patterns were developed by varying the waist line position, the waist ease, the ease in the hip area, the crotch length, the front and rear crotch width, the leg width, and the total length. Data analysis was performed using the SPSS statistics program(version 18.0). To verify the difference, this study used a variance analysis and Duncan's test. The conclusions drawn by the study are as follows. To reflect the form element of an abdomen with fatty deposits, the waist circumference should have an ease of 2cm. The front waist result was W/4+0.5cm+0.75cm and the rear waist result was W/4-0.5cm+0.25cm. The hip circumference showed a total ease of 4.5cm. The front hip result was H/4+0.75cm and the rear hip result was H/4+1.5cm. The crotch width set to H/16-1cm and the applied rear crotch width was H/16+2cm. The rear hip area was given more ease to reflect the protrusion of the hip. Along the line extending from the knee area to the crotch line, the outer seam line was designed with a gradual S-shaped curve to accommodate the protrusion from the maximum thigh width.