• 복식문화연구
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.

• 복식
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• 제16권
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• pp.221-229
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• 1991

This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

• 복식
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• 제16권
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• pp.15-42
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• 1991

A nation's culture isn't consisted by the characteristics of the nation only, but it is greatly affected by the geographical features and natural conditions, and it could be also dominated by the continual effect through mutual contact on economic exchange or social problem and political interests with neighboring countries. It is a well known fact that the contact of culture between Korea and Mongolia established under the special political situation that Corea was invaded by Won. But more basically, the Nomad including Mongolia had influenced upon neighboring countries, therefore, our country was also greatly influenced on consisting of our own culture by them. Moreover. the fact that our language belongs to their language's category(mostly Tweigru and Mongolian language) proves that the origin of our culture was deeply related with Mongolia. Accordingly, we could not limit the cultural relation between Korea and Mongolia within a special era. But especially, since unification of China by Mongolia, Won which appeared as a new great nation had dominated Corea for one hundred years, and the Corea's costume culture had a point of conversion to the mongolian. Therefore, this study expects to comment upon the relations of costume between Corea and Mongolia from a view point of Corea's tribute and royal gifts gifts by Mongolia written on the reference literatures. 1) From the ancient times, between our country and Mongolia there has been a direct or indirect exchange caused by the people's movement or invasion due to very closed neighboring. The relations between Corea and Mongolia have started from the mongolia's requests of tribute for the reason why they helped Corea against the Keoran's invasion, and these relation had continued by King Kongmin's age. 2) Mongolia had plundered a tribute such as dress, cereals, horses, military supplies, soldiers, maiden and little girls etc. from Corea, and therefore, a great confusion occurred on political, economic and social fields. And since King Chungyoul of Corea got married with a Princess of Won, the Corea's position was placed as the Buma nation(nation of son in law) and then high class people of Corea preferred to follow the mongolian costume such as Byunbal (pigtail), Ho dress (mongolian dress), Rouges, Chockturi (a kind of formal cap) and Doturak pigtail ribbon, and some have been applied up to date. On the other hand, the custom of Corea had transmitted to the Mongolian nobility, they called it "Corea Yang(style)". 3) The costume of Corea could be divided into three different periods, the first is the period influenced by Tang and Song's regime, the second is affected by the Won's costume and the third is applying the Myung's regime in the end of Corea. The Mongolian dress was based on the Ho dress form and it has been developed through compounding artistic traditional fields and foreign customs in long history. And Mongolia is composed of various tribes, therefore, they have their own dress for each tribe. Our country and Mongolia had a similar dress form based on Ho dress and both used the Chacksukunggo (jacket with small sleeves and slacks) and Seon(line). And the ornaments of costume such as Chockturi, Doturak pigtail ribbon and Rouges had transmitted and fixed down as a traditional wedding garment, but the Rouges has been used by noble women from the ancient times in our country. Since a member of the Society of Korean Costume has visited Mongolia in August 1990 for the first time, I really recognized the neccesity of more detailed study on the costume relation between Korea and Mongolia, and I will proceed with the study on various fields of costume under cooperation of Institute of Oriental Academy of Mongolia.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제23권
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• pp.25-37
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• 2008

이 연구에서는 전남 보성 거석리 및 해남 분토리 유적에서 출토된 녹니석제 구슬들을 대상으로 육안적, 광물학적 및 지구화학적 특성과 정량분석을 통해 옥기의 광물종을 규명하고 원광석의 산지를 해석하였다. 연구대상 옥기들은 회청색 환옥 3점, 암록색 관옥 1점 및 흑록색 관옥 1점이며, 공통적으로 세립질의 침주상 및 섬유상 결정으로 이루어져 있다. 이 옥기들은 재질이 부드럽고 강도가 약하며 주로 주상, 판상, 엽편상의 벽개를 갖는 녹니석으로 구성되어 있다. 주성분 원소는 $SiO_2$, $Al_2O_3$, MgO 및 FeO이며 미량의 $K_2O$, CaO 및 Na_2O$를 함유하고 있다. 정량분석 결과를 녹니석의 단종 분류도에 도시할 때, 회청색 옥기와 암록색 옥기는 클리노클로어로, 흑록색 옥기는 클리노클로어와 쉐리단티에의 경계에 속하는 녹니석으로 판명되었다. 녹니석은 재질이 비교적 무르고 부드러워 가공이 용이하고 미려한 색상과 진주광택을 가지고 있어 선사시대로부터 장식용 옥기로 매우 유용하게 이용되었을 것으로 추정된다. 녹니석의 채광대상 원광석은 충남 중서부 일대와 함경남도 이원 일대에서 생산된 것으로 알려져 있으나 지리적으로 거석리 및 분토리 유적과 상당히 먼 거리에 위치해 있다. 한편 녹니석은 열수광상의 모암변질대에서 흔히 생성되는 점토광물로서, 유적지 인근에 분포하는 소규모 열수광상에서 소량 채석되어 공급되었을 가능성이 높다. 이에 대하여는 향후 고고학적 해석과 검토를 통해 원료의 산지추정과 공급, 제작 및 수급과정에 대한 검증이 필요하다.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제4호
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• pp.145-180
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• 2006

In Korea, nation and nationalism are undeniable justice, absolute virtue and moreover system of desire. From the late Chosun Dynasty when the Korean Peninsula had to survive from the critical situation of being the arena of competition, and through the colonial period under Japanese imperialism, nationalism became stronger as a logic of survival. The policy of seclusion under closed and exclusive nationalism that didn't recognize the world situation well enough, eventually gave more pain to the nation. Nationalism in colonial Korea which was as reformed nationalism and on the other hand, as intransigent, resisting nationalism. Since the purpose of this writing is not for clarifying the argument raised on Korean nationalism, there is no use mentioning how it went with the change of time. But we have to focus on the fact that the word 'nation' which appeared under the influence of popular revolution and capitalism meaning 'a group of people', was translated and understood as a racial concept for strengthening the unity of 'single-race nation with five thousand years' history. First of all, there is nationalism used to fortify the system. 'The Charter of National Education' and 'The Pledge of Allegiance' were ornaments to intensify the ruling ideology and dictatorship to militarize entire South Korea for 'settling Korean democracy' professed nationalism. Also, another ruling ideology armed with 'self-reliance' put North Korea into the state of hypnosis called nationalism. Nationalism, claiming 'nation' outwardly, but in reality, being an illuminating, instructing ideology isolating each other was indeed a body with two faces. This made 'nation' in Korea mysterious and objective through work such as. The statue commemorating patriotic forefathers' and picture of national records' in South Korea art. Nationalism used to strengthening the system encountered the magical 'single-race' and made 'ghost' being an extreme exclusion to other nations. We can find pedigreed pureness not allowing any mixed breeds from the attitude accepting western art -via Japan or directly- and making it vague by using the word Korean and Asia. There's nationalism as a resistant ideology to solidify the system on the other side. It came out as a way of survival among the Great Power and grew with the task of national liberation to became as a powerful force facing against the dictatorship dominating South Korea after the liberation. This discussion of nationalism as a resistance ideology was active in 1980s. In 1980, democracy movement against the dictatorship of 5th Republic originated from military power which came out suppressing the democratic movement in Gwangju, spread out from the intellects and the students to the labors, farmers and the civilians. It is well known that the 'Nation-People(Minjoong)'s Art Movement could come out under this social condition. Our attitude toward nationalism is still dual in this opening part of 21st century. On one hand, they are opposing to the ultra-nationalism but are not able to separate it from nationalism, and on the other, they have much confusion using it. In fact, in a single-race nation like Korea, the situation of being nationalism and jus sanguinis together can cause dual nationalism. Though nationalism is included in the globalization order, it is evidence that it's effective in Korea where there are still modern fetters like division and separation. In particular, in the world where Japan makes East Asia Coalition but exposed in front of nationalism, and China not being free from Sinocentrism, and American nationalism taking the world order, and Russia fortifying nationalism suppressing the minority race after the dissolution of socialism, Korean nationalism is at the point to find an alternative plan superior to the ruling and resisting ideology.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.12-26
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• 2014

본 연구는 동궐도에 나타난 괴석의 배치를 바탕으로 조선시대 궁궐에 쓰인 괴석의 배석형식과 활용을 고찰한 것이다. 동궐도에서 축선을 보조하여 정형성을 형성하는 괴석 배열의 종류는 단식, 대식, 연식으로 구분된다. 단식은 기존 건축물을 통해 형성된 축선상에 괴석 1개를 배치하여 시각적 초점을 부여하거나 중심성을 강조하기 위해 사용되었다. 대식의 경우, 주로 건물 양옆에 괴석 2개를 대칭구도로 놓아 건축물에 질서와 위계를 부여하기 위해 사용되었다. 또한 세 개의 돌을 나열한 연식은 주석(主石)의 역할을 하는 가운데 돌이 축선 상에 놓여 강한 방향성과 정면성을 부여하는 방법으로 사용된다. 이러한 괴석 배치법은 수목의 배식에도 동일하게 적용되는 것으로, 수목의 요점식재와 대칭식재 방법에서 유사성이 발견되었다. 따라서 괴석과 수목은 장소의 성격과 규모에 따라 취사선택될 수 있으며, 축 형성과 정형적 공간창출의 효과는 근본적으로 같다고 할 수 있다. 이상의 결과를 바탕으로 동궐도 괴석의 배치 특성을 고찰한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 괴석은 중요한 건물에 위계를 표현하기 위해 설치되어 구심적인 공간을 창출하는 수단으로 사용되었다. 둘째, 괴석간 거리는 가운데에 있는 건축물의 크기에 비례하여 조정되었으며, 이는 중심축과 좌우 대칭물 간의 비례적 균형구도를 통해 안정감을 부여하기 위함이었다. 셋째, 불규칙한 괴석의 외형이 규칙적인 대칭성을 형성하는데 제한요소가 되므로 석함을 활용하여 정형성을 더하였다. 넷째, 연식(3입식) 배치에서 가운데 괴석에 변화를 주어 중심성을 강조하였다. 다섯째, 괴석은 타 점경물의 종류와 배합 및 위치조정이 수월하도록 크기를 제한함으로써 얻어지는 이동성이 있었다. 여섯째, 사의적 대상으로 감상되던 궁궐 괴석은 근본적으로 수석과 동질적인 개념의 조형물 이었으며 감상되는 방법, 형태, 구성에서 같은 맥락으로 전개되었다. 일곱째, 연식으로 놓인 괴석은 짝수일 경우 균등분할 식으로 배치되며, 홀수일 경우 중심 괴석을 중심으로 나머지가 대칭하도록 배열하는 방법을 따랐다. 이상의 배석원칙은 조선 궁궐에서 괴석을 제작하고 활용했던 특징적인 방법으로 판단된다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.9-14
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• 2006

민화나 고화에 많이 등장하는 호랑나비나 제비나비형태의 그림은 다수 있지만 한자 문화권이라 그런지 '나비'라는 말은 늦게 나타난다. 나비라는 말은 나불나불 나는 모습에서 유래되었다고 하는데, 고서에 호접(胡蝶:범나비), 황접(黃蝶:노랑나비) 등으로 나타나다가 1481년에 나온 두시언해(杜詩諺解)에서 나비 또는 나뵈로, 1527년에 나온 훈몽자회(訓夢字會)에는 나뵈로, 숙종 시대(1675$\sim$1720)에 나온 시몽언해물명(時夢諺解物名)에는 남이로 나온다. 그 후로는 나?????? 또는 나비로 불러오다가 현재 나비가 표준말이 되어 쓰여 지고 있다. 아직도 지방에 따라서는 나부 또는 나베라고 부르는 곳도 있다. 나비는 연인의 사랑 기쁨 행운 장수 영원 등의 의미와 아름다운 자태에 마음이 끌려 예로부터 시와 그림으로 표현되어 그 아름다움을 감상하거나, 공예품, 장신구등에 응용되어 왔다. 본 연구는 이러한 나비의 형태와 색채를 분석하고 수용성 부직포를 이용한 누비 응용기법을 적용하여 나비의 형태미, 날개시맥의 섬세한 조형미를 표현하였으며 가볍고 드레이프성이 좋은 기본소재를 사용함으로서 나비의 날개 짓이 주는 율동적 움직임을 용이하게 표현될 수 있도록 하였다. 이에 본 연구는 상기의 표현 기법이 나비 이미지의 미적표현에 적합함과 아울러 디자인 전개에 무한한 잠재력을 가지고 있음을 제시하고자 한다. 연구 결과 나비 날개 윤곽선의 부드러운 곡선은 인체의 선적 조형미에 잘 부합되어 의상과 인체가 조화롭게 결합될 수 있다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 또한 누비 응용 기법이 가진 특성들이 소재 표현기법으로 다양화 될 수 있음을 깨달았으며 누비 기법의 응용을 통한 혼합기법이 의상에 적용됨으로서 오뜨 꾸뛰르(Haute Couture) 적인 고급스러운 작품으로 전개될 수 있음을 알게 되었다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.184-203
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• 2020

조선 개국 후 유교적 가치관으로 성장한 통치 계급에게 불교 의례는 이른바 '위험한 축제'로 인식되었다. 의례는 출생에서 죽음에 이르는 삶의 중요한 전환점에서 다음 단계로의 이행을 도왔고, 제의를 통해 공동체의 결속을 강하게 했다. 의례 공간에는 도량을 신비로운 공간으로 변화시키는 다양한 공양구와 기물이 장엄되고 범음구와 범패가 어우러졌다. 그 중에서도 불교 회화는 기층민에게 강한 효력을 지닌 시각 매체로 적극 활용되었다. 생사의 인과응보를 담은 <시왕도>의 사례에서 볼 수 있듯이 의식이 마련된 도량에 불화를 헌괘하고 이를 생생하게 설명해주는 '관청(觀聽)'에 대한 수요로 불화의 기능은 더욱 확대되었다. 천도 의례 장면을 담은 <감로도>에는 왕실과 종친의 모습이 강조되어 표현되었다. 중국의 수륙화에서 이 도상은 수륙재에 봉청(奉請)하는 존귀한 대상 중 한 그룹이었으나 16세기 <감로도>에는 왕실의 후원을 상징하며 국행 수륙재의 역사성과 전통을 입증하는 존재로 도해된다. 왕실 후원은 불교 의례에 대한 사회적 공인과 같았고, 이러한 메시지를 드러내고 싶은 흔적이 <감로도>에 남아있다. 의례에 대한 위정자(爲政者)들의 경계는 표면적으로는 군중이 참여하는 의례 공간에 승속(僧俗), 남녀, 신분의 귀천(貴賤)이 함께 어우러지기에 예의가 무너지고 풍기가 문란해질 것이라는 우려였다. 또한 일상으로부터의 일탈, 금기로 부터의 해방이라는 축제의 요소와도 밀접한 관련이 있다. 시각 매체는 특별한 힘을 지니고 있다고 인식되었기에 그 힘을 이용하고자 하는 측과 위험성을 우려하는 시선이 공존했다. 실록(實錄)의 기록에서 위험성을 강조하며 불화를 불태우고 불화를 그린 자를 잡아오도록 하는 일련의 조치나, 도성이 텅 비도록 군중들이 모여든 기록은 역설적이게도 불교 의례가 반드시 참여해야 하는 축제의 장으로 인식됐음을 반증한다. 불교 의례는 생의 순환 단계에서 유교가 대체할 수 없는 종교적 기능을 지니고 있기에 쉽게 사라질 수 없었고, 공동체를 통합하는 축제의 요소는 더욱 강화되었다. 조선 후기 <감로도>에는 17세기부터 본격화되는 사당패나 연희패가 도해되고 의례의 현장감이 생생하게 반영되었다. 불행한 죽음을 위로하던 불교 의식은 해마다 일정한 시기에 마련되어 일상의 고단함을 털고 휴식을 취할 수 있는 축제의 장으로 자리 잡았다. 유교 국가의 정책적 탄압에 '위험한 축제'로 인식되던 불교 의례가 정례적인 세시풍속이자 공동체의 축제로 수용되는 과정을 불교 회화에 재현된 시선의 변화에서 확인할 수 있다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.147-160
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• 1999

This paper is intended to compare and analyze the fashion trends that were introduced in the recent shows, held abroad and in Korea, so as to investigate how well the designers in Taegu and Kyungbuk (TK) area are keeping up with the international vogue. The research has done, analyzing Pret-a-Porter in Paris and the three events held in the TK area in 1997 -The Taegu Collection, Kyungbuk Fashion Festival and Textile & Apparel Fair and using reference pictures and documentary records. In order to investigate the trends the research is divided by four groups which are the silhouette, the detail, the color and the Fashion image and has done with the help of three postgraduate students. The results are as follows. 1. The Silhouette The slim-line has the greatest importance in the silhouette analysis of the recent collections. Like Elongated and Fit & Flare, tight-fitting and female-line were also appeared quite a lot. Compared with foreign collection, Korean collections put the bigger importance on the slim-line. 2. The Detail The printings, using paintings and plant-logos had the large portion of the accessories in both foreign and Korean collections. Draw string and wrap style were also presented a lot. Especially, at the Korean collections, layerd, corsage, and craft accent were emphasized, too. As for the necklines the similarity was found over the four events considering. Camisole neckline and halter neck were presented the most, and bared top, Vneckline, boat and low-neck which can highlight the feminity were often appeared as well. Considering collars, tailored and peaked collars which are frequently used for the jackets, were usually shown at the collections. Like convertable, shirts, wing and Italian collar, the collars that can be applied for the sports wears were presented a lot. Virtually no variation of design was found in the sleeve analysis. While set-in-sleeve and sleeveless were found commonly, not so many ornaments were added to the sleeves. The ankle and knee length for the pants and skirts were common. Furthermore, including the micro-mini, showing extremely feminine style the mini-style had the 20% portion of the skirt-length. Unbalanced lengths, using bias-cut were presented quite a lot on the runways. Deep slit skirts, wide pants and irregular hem skirts were in vogue. On the runways of Paris, more than 21% of the design was the burmuda pants. 3. The Color Red and Blue were in vogue in the four collections considering. Sometimes, yellowish was combined in Korean collections. Black and pale tone were appeared to be in fashion also with light grayish, moderate and deep tone. 4. The Fashion image As for the fashion image, feminine-decorative trend amounted to the large percentage in korean collections. At the foreign collection feminine-decorative trend and feminine trend were predominant, then mannish trend and simple trend were apeared equally. The research shows that TK area and foreign collections are fairy similar, which means that the designers in TK area have been making their efforts to satisfy the clients who have the international minds. However, compared with foreign collections, TK collections were apprered to be strongly inclined to only a few trends. Consequently the season trends are not as diverse as the foreign trends, which cannot satisfy the fashion taste of the clients in TK area. The local designers should know the tendency and the taste of the clients and make the more efforts to read local clients' mind.