• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.62-71
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• 2007

The color is one of the important key words in Fashion arena today. In fashion, the image and concept changes by use of color or color combinations. The purpose of this research is to pursue the characteristics of color and color combinations through analyzing the colors utilized in oriental fashion design. It is necessary to define the oriental fashion design to build a criteria for collecting law materials for analysis of the research. As a conclusion, traditional oriental colors already used in various traditional artifacts were popular in use by many fashion designers with volatile attitudes towards its original symbolic meanings or philosophy. For example, yellow and red stands for gorgeous or sexy images through fashion design instead of express its original symbols of power and prosperity. The Complimentary Color Combination in hue, value and intensity of colors were also found in fashion design impling oriental images. While Contemporary Fashion Trend Color were also used in expressing Oriental images with oriental details considering fashion market. In using Oriental colors The characteristics of oriental colors and its combinations used in fashion designs are significant and their influences are meaningful not only in fashion design but also adjacent design areas.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.69-90
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to find the recognition of Korean image fashion design by U.K fashion specialists. U.K is one of the important countries in design field including fashion design since 1960. For this purpose, literature research and focus individual interview research were carried. First, through the researches precedent, it was found that a national image is related with it's design industry and what is Korean image fashion design, were studied. Second, for individual interviews to 13 U.K fashion specialists, who are teaching and researching in University that has postgraduate course over M.A and had industrial experiences from 7years to 22years, were progressed using open questions and visual image stimulus. The open questions were consisted with four parts : personal educational and industrial background, recognitions about oriental fashion, recognitions about Korean image and Korean fashion design before seeing the visual stimulus, recognition about Korean image fashion design and the characteristics of Korean after seeing the visual stimulus. The results are as follows; First, the 12 U.K specialists have recognized 'oriental fashion' is one of important fashion trends now a days. Japan and Japanese designers are recognized as a represented nation and designer in oriental fashion by them. Two of the specialists referred to need changing the term 'oriental' because the term has been used in the sights of western from colonial age and Japanese is not included the oriental any more. Secondly, 11 interviews have recognized nothing about the Korean national image some of them has negative image due to political situation in Korean Peninsula. However 2 interviews who had been Korea before has positive image. In the questions about Korean fashion and Korean fashion designers, 10 of 13 interviews have nothing and negative recognitions. So it was founded that Korean fashion design was recognized as a lower level by U. K. fashion specialists. Thirdly, in the questions about Korean fashion image and the design characteristics of Korean fashion after seeing the visual stimulus, the response was represented two directions. One is about over decorative image through ethnic design and the other is about simple image differ from Japanese. The 13 interviews felt the Korean Image fashion design such like traditional, decorative, opulent, flat cutting, fresh proportion, loose, layering, natural, simplicity, complicate, adventure, easy, stylish, soft, feminine, young image, adult sexy image. The images were analyzed five image groups : adult sexy image, adult ethnic image, natural image, young avant-garde image, young simple casual image. No one preferred the adult sexy image, adult ethnic image and natural image. However 10 interviews preferred young avant-garde group and 13 interviews preferred the young simple casual image. So this group can be understanded and useful informed as one of competitive power in global fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study is aimed at reviewing how the Orientalism trend is expressed in the modem fashion in terms of silhouette, color, materials, and detail. To this end, the geographic scope of this study is limited to China, Japan, Korea, while data are collected from fashion collections, domestic and foreign magazines since 2000's, literature, and internet sites. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Silhouette: the basic square silhouette of the Oriental traditional costume do not disturb the body movement and have an effected on design to smoothly follow the body line rather than cutting out materials into several parts or emphasize the curved body. 2. Color: due to the influence of the Oriental Zen thought, color trend seems to pursue simplicity rather than complexity, and natural aesthetics. In addition, the Oriental colorfulness shall not be ignored. 3. Materials: golden embroidered material, polished satin, jersey, tough or rough materials, etc. have used with materials of the Oriental traditional costume came into fashion. In pattern, the Orientalism trend is expressive of pattern by Chinese ink-spread technique, simple brush touch technique, cloud pattern, lotus flower pattern or dragon pattern, all of which feature the Oriental calm aesthetics or those motivated by the Oriental traditional patterns. 4. Detail: the techniques of handicrafts and manual arts such as meticulous embroidery, tassel or patchwork reflect well the Orientalism trend in the modem fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.441-456
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• 2016

This study considers the modern expression of oriental esthetics by analyzing the fashion design with the Chinese ink technique based on the concept of Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung, which was regarded as the best rule of art creation in oriental history. This study was performed by conducting a literature review of related books and advanced studies, and then, collection analysis was done with photos derived from fashion websites (seoulfashionweek.org, chinafashionweek.org, vogue.com, firstview. com) from 2010 S/S to 2016 S/S. A total of 317 fashion photos of designs created using the Chinese ink technique by Korean designers at Seoul Fashion Week and Chinese designers at China Fashion Week were analyzed. The contemporary fashions created with the Chinese ink technique were characterized by, first, the bold brush strokes and natural spreading effects of Chinese ink, second, the emphasis of empty space by taking essential elements, and third, the coexistence of deep Chinese ink colors with modern primary colors. The formativeness of the contemporary fashions created with Chinese ink technique based on Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung were as follows: first, temperance, pursuing spiritual and minimal expression, second, empty space, making design elements interact and pursue harmony, third, changeable rhythm, symbolizing the growth and variation revealing the power of life, and fourth, vitality, represented in the rhythmical movement of the brush. This study was based on the oriental esthetics inherent in Chi-Yun-Sheng-Tung, and it attempted to analyze contemporary fashion design. The aim was to show the possibility of modern applications to traditional values, and it can be a meaningful case in design planning based on culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.60-72
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• 2008

A midst the tendency in an attempt to rehabilitate the coexistence of values in Oriental and Western cultures, along with centripetal attention through reincarnation of the Oriental culture, the modem fashion trend is also inclusive of such Oriental flavors even in the opposite Western fashion icons with an outlook for futuristic alternative. In this regard the study is to investigate the Oriental Characteristics shown in the contemporary fashion in a more profound and right manner by evaluating its spirituality and formativeness through analytical survey on preliminary literatures, whose key words are as follows; Fist, heterogeneity inclusive of the Oriental comprehensiveness through non-periodic chaos; second, imperfection in pursue of perfection through non-perfection; third, asymmetry caused by polarized historicity together with agility in the Oriental costumes; fourth, simplicity bridging into religious naught, and; fifth, spatial comfortablity shrouded by loose design. As a result, the study demonstrates that Oriental sensitivity implicative at the modem fashion, prior to its formativeness, shed out a clue of the Oriental profound spirits in its fashion style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.789-808
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• 2010

The orientalism in fashion is believed to develop from the eclectic notion of oriental and occidental fashion. By studying on Gabrielle Chanel's clothing that is usually used by neutral colors and on Yohji Yamamoto's clothing that characterizes clothes in neutral colors, the purpose of this study is to seek ways for remaking Korean traditional clothing into a new modern one to gain a world reputation in terms of clothes. Therefore the study is for exploring the characteristics on the factors of fashion design such as color, line and textile materials with works of Gabrielle Chanel, a famous designer in Western world who has made a black color a popular one for people and works of Yohji Yamamoto, an well-known fashion designer of the East using neutral colors. This study analyzed, from the 2004 S/S to the 2006 F/W, the collection of works published in style.com through the works of Gabrielle Chanel, Yohji Yamamoto, and through the analysis of the visual target. A total of 527 images are used in this paper. Elements of fashion design analysis are lines, colors, and materials. The study reached the conclusion as follows after analyzing the characteristics on clothing with neutral colors of Gabrielle Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto. In case of aesthetic characteristics on the design of Gabrielle Channel, it has expression of feminist, sensual, modern and luxury. It is considered that Gabrielle Channel has a luxury image using a neutral color. Also using simple sleeveless in black and tweed structure, the garments have mixed with neutral colors. Fashion design characteristics on the design of Yohji Yamamoto classified into sensual, modern, ascetic expression. Therefore the design has a simple expression of using a black color. Yohji Yamamoto is a designer who pursues unstructured design by using various neutral colors such as black, gray and white based on the oriental sentiment.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.2
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• pp.73-85
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• 2002

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.39-52
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• 2018

The objective of this study was to enhance understanding and appreciation of Pre-Orientalism in costumes and textiles by revealing examples of Oriental influences in Europe from the 16th century to the mid-18th century through in-depth study. The research method used were the presentation and analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; Pre-Orientalism had been influenced by Morocco, Thailand, and Persia as well as Turkey, India, and China. In this study, Pre-Orientalism refers to oriental influence and oriental taste in Western Europe through cultural exchanges from the 16th century to the mid-18th century. The oriental costume was the most popular subspecies of fancy, luxury dress and was a way to show off wealth and intelligence. Textiles were used for decoration and luxury. The Embassy and the court in Versailles and Vienna led to a frenzy of oriental fashion. It appeared that European in the royal family and aristocracy of Europe had been accommodated without an accurate understanding of the Orient. Although in this study, the characteristics, factors, and impacts of Pre-Orientalism have not been clarified, further study can be done. Recognizing a broad perspective on oriental influence in Europe before Orientalism, we can have a balanced view of future Orientalism and global fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.704-716
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• 2008

This study aims to explore the creation of fashion design that embraces the diversity of human culture by examining oriental images that appear in the modern fashion with a focus on new paradigms that significantly affect human life as the latest trends, and by reflecting the trends of the times. The results of this study are as follows: First, this study examined that with regard to paradigm, a theoretical frame to view universe, the dichotomous, determinist, mechanism, linear paradigm collapsed to convert to undetermined, exoteric, pluralistic, indeterministic, organic, and holistic paradigm. The new paradigm is identified to have emerged before and after 1950s, and through the new paradigm, the characteristics of postmodernism such as historicality, popularity, locality, folkways and the characteristics of deconstructionism, internally mutual text, post phenomenon, undeterminability and externally exposure, destruction, poverty, decomposition and analysis, were identified. Second, the Orient is defined as the generic term referring to the entire Asian areas east of Turkey. Through the developmental process of oriental images, it was converted from the Oriental image, which mysteriously and romantically represents oriental elements, into the ethnic image that represents long time oriental traditions and indigenous culture together with the characteristics of the new paradigm. Third, the artistic characteristics of the Oriental costumes presented by Korea, China and Japan are expressed in developmental types, T-type plane structure, layered style, asymmetrical adjustment and easy silhouette, and they show indigenous characteristics of each country, for example, Chinese styles in dragon pattern, red and yellow, Japanese styles in flower design and achromatic color. Fourth, the Oriental Image, combined with the postmodernism and deconstructionism through the new paradigm, has two: one Oriental image highlights traditional elements by creating new Oriental image such as natural image, folk image, hybrid image and deconstruction image; and another is undetermined and vague by combining or decomposing Oriental or Western elements. It is expected that fashion designs that reflect these contexts of the times will contribute to the strengthening of international competitiveness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.109-127
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• 2002

As modern fashion trends show oriental motif since the transition of post-modernism, a number of great fashion designers such as Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gautier applied the concept of Orientalism to their fashion design. Total fashion is a trend in which make-up, hair-style, and accessories. together with clothing itself are considered a complete fashion as a whole, and sometimes appeals much to consumers. Given that the previous studies on Orientalism have focused only on clothing. this research aims at examining Orientalism with a total fashion approach to simultaneously study make-up, hair-style, accessories, and clothing, and showing that traditional oriental beauty is expressed by total fashion in which the past appeared again through the process of creative application. We analyzed the Orientalism total fashion from 1990 through 2001 and summarized the national differences among these countries in the following. First, China has a uniformed clothing. make-up, and hair-style as shown its traditional play, "KyungKeuk" and traditional costume, Chipao. Second, Japanese unique traditional costume has been passed on through its traditional costume, Kimono, and traditional play, "Kabuki" Finally, in Korea, make-up, hair-style and the design of the traditional costume. Hanbok, as appeared in "Myindo(means a picture of a beauty) Painted in the Chosun Era are applied and reappeared without much change. It is advised to note that the Orientalism fashion to be discussed in this study is limited to China, Japan, and Korea in Asia.Japan, and Korea in Asia.