Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스)

The Korean Society of Fashion Business (한국패션비즈니스학회)
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Pre-Orientalism in Costume and Textiles

  • Lee, Keum Hee (Dept. of Fashion Design & Marketing, Seoul Women's University)
  • Received : 2018.10.24
  • Accepted : 2018.11.29
  • Published : 2018.12.30
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Abstract

The objective of this study was to enhance understanding and appreciation of Pre-Orientalism in costumes and textiles by revealing examples of Oriental influences in Europe from the 16th century to the mid-18th century through in-depth study. The research method used were the presentation and analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; Pre-Orientalism had been influenced by Morocco, Thailand, and Persia as well as Turkey, India, and China. In this study, Pre-Orientalism refers to oriental influence and oriental taste in Western Europe through cultural exchanges from the 16th century to the mid-18th century. The oriental costume was the most popular subspecies of fancy, luxury dress and was a way to show off wealth and intelligence. Textiles were used for decoration and luxury. The Embassy and the court in Versailles and Vienna led to a frenzy of oriental fashion. It appeared that European in the royal family and aristocracy of Europe had been accommodated without an accurate understanding of the Orient. Although in this study, the characteristics, factors, and impacts of Pre-Orientalism have not been clarified, further study can be done. Recognizing a broad perspective on oriental influence in Europe before Orientalism, we can have a balanced view of future Orientalism and global fashion.

Keywords

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Figure 1. Rainbow Portrait of Elizabeth I, c.1600 (www.alamy.com)

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Figure 2. Part of the Triumphal Procession, with Gifts from the East and the West, 1649-1651 (rkd.nl/nl)

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Figure 3. Dervish, 1714 (sites.fitnyc.edu)

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Figure 4. Ambassador of Siam, 1748 (www.artic.edu)

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Figure 5. Part of The Entry of the Moroccan Envoy, 1783 (www.habsburger.net)

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Figure 6. Lady Mary Montagu, unknown date (www.wikigallery.org)

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Figure 7. Maria Theresa in the Costume of a Turkish Lady of the Harem, 1743/44 (www.habsburger.net)

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Figure 8. Sultan's Wife Drinking Coffee, 1755 (Hermitage Museum)

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Figure 9. Man in Oriental Costume, 1632 (www.metmuseum.org)

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Figure 10. Sir Robert Shirley, c. 1624–1627 (www.tate.org.uk)

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Figure 11. Samuel Pepys, 1666 (www.npg.org.uk)

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Figure 12. With Mask, 1762-1763 (www.nationaltrustcollections.org)

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Figure 13. Three Figures Dressed for a Masqueradec. c. 1740s (www.nga.gov)

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Figure 14. A Venetian Lady in Masquerade, 1736-1775 (www.britishmuseum.org)

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Figure 15. Coffee Server, 1620 (circa) (gallica.bnf.fr)

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Figure 16. Man from India, 1714 (eng.travelogues.gr)

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Figure 17. Male Fashion Lllustration, 1670s (gallica.bnf.fr)

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Figure 18. A woman in a Dress Made of Siamoise, 1687 (commons.wikimedia.org)

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Figure 19. Indienne, the early 18th century (Musée de la mode et du textile, 1998, p.40)

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Figure 20. Siamoise Flammée textile, 18th century (infogalactic.com)

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Figure 21. The Grande Vizier, 1748. (parismuseescollections)

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Figure 22. Furnishing Fabric, 1760 (www.artic.edu)

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Figure 23. Re-entrant Prayer Rug, late 15th to early 16th century (upload.wikimedia.org)

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Figure 24. Madonna and Child Enthroned, about 1475-85 (www.nationalgallery)

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Figure 25. Husband and Wife, 1523 (www.wikiart)

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Figure 26. Savonnerie Carpet, between 1670 and 1685 (en.wikipedia.org)

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Figure 27. The Emperor on a Journey, ca. 1700-1720 (www.mfa.org)

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Figure 28. Part of The Concert from a Set of Indo-Chinese Scenes, 1690–1715 (www.metmuseum.org)

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Figure 29. La pêche Chinoise, 1742, (Musée des Beaux-Arts)

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Figure 30. Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, 1683 (www.llph.co.uk)

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