Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.10
no.1
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pp.69-78
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2008
A new coinage which calls a modern was appeared variously by values, taste, feature of lifestyle and the meaning of a new coinage has influence in the change of lifestyle. Particularly a popular star is a person who situates in the center of a new coinage, his role, behavior, and appearance have great influence in the birth of a new coinage. He is a fashion leader as well as the object of fashion imitation to the new generation being sensitive for fashion. As his fashion is appeared with important fashion icon in fashion market, fashion companies have developed actively star marketing marking him as an advertising model. Therefore, because the fashion trends of a popular star introduce season's fashion trends and can be important factor forecasting fashion behavior of consumer, this study aims at analysis for fashion trends of a popular star including a public entertainer. The dates of this study were collected by TV drama, internet, and magazines, etc. The fashion trends were divided into feminine fashion trend, sexy fashion trend, tomboy fashion trend, and retro fashion trend. Feminine fashion trend was based on feminity but it was classified in masculine look, simple look, chic look, and natural & romantic look according to the standard of a transformation of feminine image. Sexy fashion trend was divided into two sexy images according to the method wrapping oneself in a dress and the method exposing a specific body part. Tomboy fashion trend could be the immature boyish style which concealed bust or hip or pelvis symbolizing feminity. Retro fashion trend could be style being based on 1980's style and Y line. Fashion items as leggings, baby doll dress, tunic style, dot pattern, garsonne look were come into fashion.
Particular historic events such as revolution and wars have given rise to fashion. Luxurious costume representative of the aristocratic culture since the French Revolution was changed into popular look with the collapse of the royal regime. With the restoration of the royal regime by Napoleon, rapid changes associated with the reemergence of the costume of aristocratic brought an opportunity for the revolutionary fashion of bringing about new fashion in the fashion field. Especially, the New Look Presented by Christian Dior in 1947 shortly after the Second World War would be the typical style of revolutionary fashion. Accordingly, this study attempted to analyse the characteristics of new fashion regarding how new fashion occurred and developed in changes in revolutionary fashion after the Revolution and the War, in conjunction with the zeitgeist(time split) of rapid social changes. The ultimate purpose of this study was find out the significance of fashion as to how and why fashion changed in relation to the factors of changes in fashion in the history and create new future fashion by reinterpreting new aesthetic consciousness about the characteristic of new fashion found in changes in revolutionary fashion.
The traditional masculinity has been gradually diversified towards the 21th century due to a new social environment. Men embrace his feminine side with heightened aesthetic sense using cosmetic products for better skin, hair, and nails. This diversification of male image and his beauty style proves the addition of feminity to masculinity. C. G. Jung felt that we are all really bisexual in nature. The anima is the female aspect present in the collective unconscious of men and it is the archetype through which we communicate with the collective unconscious generally, and it is important to get into touch with it for self-realization. This study analyzes subconscious desire based on the anima archetype in the collective unconscious of men through the diversity of the gender identity shown in men's cosmetic advertisements, and therefore it aim to help developing a marketing strategy of male beauty industry in the future. For this purpose, it conducted an empirical analysis of male beauty style in cosmetic advertisements through the Jungian anima theory. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, gender identity represented in cosmetic advertisements was typified as Retrosexual, Ubersexual, Metrosexual, Cross sexual. Second, the anima archetype stimulates feminity in male beauty style. Cross sexual type has the highest feminine tendency. Third, range of utilization of cosmetic products is articulated with the diverse gender identity. Cross sexual type is most similar to the female beauty style. This feminization of male beauty style is the external expression of collective unconscious and affords human being to reach self-realization.
Jacques Derrida, a leading theorist of the post-structuralism, has explicated how the material reality is subordinated to the ideality of form, by noticing the platonic concept, 'chora', which implicates the spatiality as the matrix and also by actualizing its essential meaning as the femininity. On the basis of the idea of the platonic 'chora', the Derridian deconstructive spatiality and its feminist oriented enlargement of Grosz this study is purposed to elucidate the architectural idea of Zaha Hadid that is located in the similar horizon with the deconstructionism. On the one hand it is focused on the explication of the new concept of space, which is dealt with the deconstruction of the traditional concept of space, on the other on the inference of the feminity of the originally understood spatiality. With this inference it is finally intended to reexamine the foundation of the discussion for the architectural space that must be ahead of the discussion for the difference between the masculine and the feminine space. If it is fundamentally and manifoldly executed, not only the architectural paradigm will enter into an renewed phase, but also the various ways toward the new direction of the architecture be explored.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.33
no.1
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pp.115-126
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2009
This study is about the iconological analysis on woman and clothes of Richard Avedon's and Cindy Sherman's constructed photographies which have questioned about life and existence of woman and present new visions about woman in comtemporary society and culture. The woman in R. Avedon's disguises herself with clothes, while the woman in C. Sherman's changes herself depending on the circumstances. R. Avedon reveals the inside of woman and ego with his gaze. The woman in his photography is reborn as another-self and communicates with the viewer through her eyes. C. Sherman has cast doubts with a woman's point of view in the way of making herself as an object in her works. C. Sherman has presented a new way of thinking about woman's body and ego. The viewer gives feminity and identity to the woman in C. Sherman's photography who has kept asking a question about woman-herself. The identity of woman in the photography has been changed depending on what she is wearing, what she is doing and where she is. Like this, the clothes which she puts on becomes another-self and also expresses life and dignity of the woman.
This thesis is an interpretation of "Golden bird" of Grimm's fairy tale and similar other tales from the perspective of analytical psychology. Golden bird story start loss of golden apple in king's garden. King and three sons are one-sided structure live without female members in family. They need feminine aspect. Adventure and journey of stupid youngest son can be seen as a individuation process in analytic psychology. Ego meets several painful experience during journey. New Kingdom has a new specific collective consciousness. When ego fixed dominated specific collective consciousness he can only be liberated after completing the difficult task of the next phase in crisis of death. This process is initiation, which is a supplement to feminity after recovery of increased consciousness, marriage with the princess, which is possible to unify the sexes (coniunctio oppositorum). The ego who got the apple, bird, horse, and princess which is shown to be a supplement to feminity, does not attain a complete success. Although the youngest comes out after brothers' failure, yet separation and abandonment of persona are difficult challenges and after all he achives a higher consciousness and then he primarily marries the princess, his Anima, after he executed his brothers for his repeated hardships, when the intellectual capacity is sacrificed as offering. Also, the fox restores himself from magic after the youngest son kills him and cut his head and feet, as the fox's wish. To be transformed into a human being. It experiences another consciousness. Finally, unifying the coniunctio oppositerum is fulfilled and a divine bond achieves the wholeness and it is accomplished individuation. In clinical practice, fox is compared to a therapist as a guide of individuation process who lead clients.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.28
no.2
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pp.200-211
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2004
The Purpose of this study was to review the effects of the cyberspace mentality on fashion as a visible symbol of feminity and to analyze terms of its aesthetic values. As for the research methodology, relevant theories across cultures and disciplines are reviewed and an experimental study is conducted to explore spiritual objectives in cyberspace. Then, major issues facing the digital society. symbolized in the computer networks, are reviewed in terms of feminine identity and physical beauty from a feminist's viewpoint. Lastly, the aesthetic values found in the spatial meditation of a new dimension (reality versus virtuality) is comparatively analyzed. The virual reality technology and bio-medical technology are combined to be represented in fashion to create a more realistic virtual world than the real one. Such a world may well be characterized by virtuality, artificiality, masquerade, and fantasy. The intrinsic values which are revealed as psychiatrical or psychological implicated values featuring virtual or artificial implications may well be characterized by distopia, hyper, hybridity and Sur Reality.
This research aims to analyse gender identity and its internal meanings through the main character, Laurence, of the movie (2012) directed by French-Canadian film maker Xavier Dolan. Study examines performative gender identity revealed through the fashion images of Laurence who was born biologically as a man; depending on a theory of Judith Butler who represented a parody, repeatability action, and incorporation as an effect of gender identity. Also 'Internalization of others' and 'Dis-identification' are presented as an internal meanings of Laurence's gender identity which appeared on his(her) fashion images. Laurence parodies woman's fashion styles in repetition to obtain feminity as his(her) appearance. His(her) repetitive actions are construing an internalizing others(women) and visualizing a new-self to become a stylized doer. Dis-identification signifies that gender can be reconstructed regarding the differences of the place and the time and reconstructed outside can be analyzed as externalization of internalization. 'Becoming a woman' means more than what it sounds like to Laurence. It means a new signification of being a woman or redefining gender identity. That is something can be called a genuine transformation and a grant leap for Laurence.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.29
no.2
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pp.267-278
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2005
Fashion luxury products, which used to mean high-quality, handcrafted not-so-trendy items, are nowadays regarded as expensive fashion merchandise produced under the name of imported well-known brands. People cunsuming fashion luxury products distinguish themselves from other people according to the luxury fashion brands they are using, and as a result, advertisements of fashion luxury products are taken as a kind of international language. The purpose of this study is to point out the socio-cultural meanings of consuming fashion luxury products, by analyzing images shown in advertisements of fashion luxury products focusing on women's images. To do so, this study is based on general theoretical background on fashion, consumer culture advertising and analysis advertisements of fashion luxury products shown in fashion magazines in recent three years. The result of this study is as follows; The images of the advertisements of fashion luxury products could be categorized as (1) elegance, (2) kitsch and (3) fetish. Elegance is a taste of high society, aesthetically chic and feminine. Fashion luxury products, which are merchandise of extravagance, dignity, refinement, feminity and harmony, exhibit high-quality grace through their advertisements. Kitsch represents the vulgar and popular images of trivial commodities of industrial society. In the advertisement of fashion luxury product, it is shown as inappropriateness, excessiveness, stereotyped pleasantness, exaggeration an playful satisfaction. Finally, fetish images represent erotic or perverted sexuality, based on psychoanalytic fetishism which objects are regarded s substitute of sexual orgasm. The advertisements of fashion luxury product are characterized as (1) popularization of luxury, (2) objectification of sex and body, and (3) re-aestetification of anti-aesthetics. The asvertisements of fashion luxury products are actually targeted to the middle class with successful career women's images. They objectify female bodies through fetishistic images. Also, the deviant subcultural style, represented a new kind of cultural capital, is now reproduced as a new commodity aesthetics.
The purpose of this study was to analyze the gender role changes of Korean women reflected on their costumes during 20th century. To analyze the diachronic gender role changes, social environments(education, job, economy, family systems, mass-media) of 20 th century were inquired by 10 years and comparatively analyzed with 680 images of representative costumes each periods. The results are as followed. 1) $1900s{\sim}1910s$: The most representative women's gender role was a wise mother and good wife. Therefore the adopted western costume, a symbol of civilization, were represented women as a passive and sexual object of man. 2) $1920s{\sim}1930s$: 'Shin Yeosung(Modern Girl)' was the representative gender role of that time. They were the symbol of enlightenment and new education. Their costumes influenced to the changes of traditional Hanbok in functional side. 3) $1940s{\sim}1950s$: In World War II. a strong and stubborn women were wanted to support their family. They threw feminity and changed their costumes into an active and functional 'Mombbe'. 4) $1960s{\sim}1970s$: Women asserted Gender equality and resisted the traditional women's gender role. Mini Skirts and Unisex costumes were symbolic costumes reflecting the changes. 5) 1980s: The self confidence of women's gender role affected the androgynous look and body-conscious look in modern fashion. 6) $1990s{\sim}2000s$: Now, the dichotomy of gender role is not no longer effective way to understand the social changes and fashion trend rather than personal characteristics and lifestyle trends.
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