• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.359-370
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• 2011

This study analyzes the textiles design of natural indigo dyed products in Korea and Japan. In this study, a total of 556 Korean natural indigo dyed products, and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products were used for analysis. The subjects of this study were 556 natural indigo dyed products and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products selling natural indigo dyed products which were found using search engine keywords of natural indigo dyeing and natural dyeing. Research and analysis was treated regarding the products, items, patterns, and the representation techniques of the patterns. The results of this study are as follows. In the pattern used for natural indigo dyed products, 71.4% of Korean products have no pattern, but 77.1% of Japanese products have patterns. On the representation techniques of the patterns, Korean products used tie-dyeing and a dip patterned fabric. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterning techniques were paraffin dye, followed by tie-dyeing, yarn-dyed and weaving, screen printing, and yarn-dyed and knitting. Regarding the kinds of patterns for natural indigo dyed products, only 8 kinds of patterns were used in Korean products; however, over 50 kinds of various patterns were used in Japanese products. Most patterns in the Korean products were ion patterns made by tie-dyeing. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterns were stripe patterns, followed by flower, dot, and ion patterns. Based on these research results, the problems of the textile design of Korean natural indigo dyed products were that most of the products have no pattern, and even though there were patterns, they lacked variations between the products. While in the case of Japan, they used the traditional and modem patterns of various textile representation techniques.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.174-182
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• 2000

We prepared natural indigo/calcium hydroxide complex powder from tinctoria's leaf, according to the demand of developing new dyeing technique of natural fibre with natural indigo. FT- IR and UV/Visible spectra were operated to find the dyeing properties of synthetic indigo and natural indigo powder. Cotton, flax and silk fabrics were dyed with different pH, dye concentration and dyeing time. The colour yield of indigo dye was quite sensitive to dye bath pH and fabric. In synthetic indigo, the highest K/S value of dyed silk fabric was shown at near pH 9.0, and which of flax and cotton fabric were shown at pH 11.0. In other hand, in the case of natural indigo complex powder, the highest K/S value of dyed silk fabric was shown at near pH 8.0, and which of flax and cotton fabric were shown at pH 9.5∼pH 10. Mercerized cotton fabric dyed with natural indigo powder has a little antimicrobial activity.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.32-38
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• 2003

To get the variety of color by natural dyeing, cotton and silk fabrics were dyed with natural indigo and safflower in turn. The two ways of dyeing processes were carried. First, silk and cotton fabrics were dyed repeatedly in safflower dyebath to five times to get the five fabrics dyed in different shades. And then indigo dyeing process was carried on the top of the dyed fabrics with safflower. In second way, the fabrics were dyed in five stages of shade by repetition of dyeing process in indigo dyebath. And then safflower dyeing was carried on the top of the dyed fabrics with indigo. When indigo dyeing process was added on the top of the fabrics dyed in five shades with safflower, the color differences decreased between five shades of fabrics, their color values got similar in hue, shade and chroma. When safflower dyeing process was added on the top of the fabrics dyed in five shades with indigo, the fabrics showed different hue of colors between red and blue of Munsell color circle such as RP, P and PB. Like almost of fabrics dyed with plants materials, the lightfastness and laundering fastness of dyed samples were poet and drycleaning fastness were good.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.82-96
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to enhance the usability of hanji fabrics by expanding the color space of hanji fabrics. For the expression of various colors of hanji fabrics, single and combination dyeing were carried out using natural indigo(Niram, Polygonum tinctorium), marigold extract colorant, and madder extract colorant for three types of hanji fabrics with different fiber compositions(hanji, hanji/cotton, hanji/silk). The light, medium, and deep colors obtained through individual single dyeing were shown to be PB Munsell colors in the case of indigo dyeing, Y color for marigold dyeing, and R color for madder dyeing. For combination dyeing, indigo dyeing was first carried out under the conditions for light, medium, and deep colors, respectively, and marigold or madder dyeing was performed thereafter. Indigo and marigold combination dyeing produced PB, B, BG, G, and GY Munsell colors and indigo and madder combination dyeing produced PB, P, RP, and R Munsell colors. Overall, the color change of hanji/silk fabric was more diverse than that of hanji fabric and hanji/cotton fabric. In the indigo, marigold, and madder combination dyeing into individual deep colors, blackish PB and P Munsell colors was obtained. Colorfastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, and light were relatively good with above rating 4. Finally, 9 colors excluding YR color out of 10 Munsell color were obtained. We confirmed that the expansion of the color space of Hanji fabrics by the single and combination dyeing with indigo, marigold, and madder.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.7
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• pp.736-747
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• 2011

This study investigates the current status and dyeing properties of various natural indigo powder dyes in the domestic market. Products from India, China, Europe are sold in the market and only a few manufacturers provide recommendation for the method of dyeing and information on the additives. Through the market research and the preliminary investigation on 21 products, 11 were selected for the dyeing experiment which include 3 Indian, 3 Chinese, 2 German, and 1 Pakistani origin indigo reduced powders, and 2 Indian origin dried indigo leaf powder. The two dyeing methods used were the precipitation method and the fresh juice method, both at $10^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, and $60^{\circ}C$. Color difference, K/S value, and colorfastness of dyed cotton fabrics were examined. Indian reduced indigo powder showed the highest K/S value, deep dyeing, and the best color fastness. Chinese reduced indigo powder resulted in a more greenish and bluish color. Powders of dried indigo leaves were easy to use but resulted in a pale color due to low dye uptake.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.306-313
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• 2010

To achieve color diversification of natural dyeing, color mixture dyeing with Indigo and Japanese pagoda tree is applied to wool and silk fabrics. After dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution of 5~25%(o.w.f.), the indigo dyeing was carried out up to four times. Alternatively after repeat dyeing with indigo one to seven times, the dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree extract solution was applied in 5 steps(5~25%). In color mixture dyeing, the dye uptake of wool fabrics appears higher than that of silk. The sequence of Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing after Indigo dyeing was generally higher dye uptake compared with that of Indigo dyeing after Japanese pagoda tree extract dyeing. For wool and silk fabric, the pre-dyeing with Japanese pagoda tree solution was more effective for color diversification but the pre-dyeing with Indigo was more effective for the exhibition of intermediate color shade.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.53-59
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• 2007

We need to diversify the colors by natural dyeing for promotion and extention of the natural dyes market, because natural dyestuffs have the limitation the number of the colors to express, compare to synthetic dyestuffs. It was investigated that wool and silk fabrics could be dyed to green colors using natural mugwort and indigo as one of color diversification, in order to express green color that is difficult to be shown by natural dyeing. The mugwort dyebath was prepared to concentration of $25{\sim}100g/l$ using dried mugwort plant and indigo dyebath was prepared to concentration of $5{\sim}20g/l$ using natural indigo powder. Wool fabrics and silk fabrics were dyed to green(GY, G, BG in Munsell color wheel) by two batch methods using the mugwort and indigo dyebaths. the mugwort dyeing was applied at $80^{\circ}C$ for 20minutes and indigo dyeing applied for $5{\sim}7$ minutes in room temperature. The colorfastness to drycleaning and abrasion of the dyed fabrics were shown good as grade 4-5 or 5.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

Regarding experimental study on the dyeing properties of natural dye, I have dyed silk fabric with Styphnolobium japonicum, sappan wood, and indigo. The results of the experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, K/S and CIE Lab chromaticity co-ordinated. The results are as follows: In case of complex dyeing using Styphnolobium japonicum and sappan wood, dyeing with sappan wood, which is red related color, after dyeing with Styphnolobium japonicum, which is yellow related color, is more efficient. When dyeing was maden by complex of Styphnolobium japonicum and sappan wood, Dyeing method by the order of "Styphnolobium japonicum${\rightarrow}$sappan wood${\rightarrow}$mordanting" made the best result of complex dyeing. In case of complex dyeing using Styphnolobium japonicum and Indigo, dyeing with Styphnolobium japonicum after the indigo made the best result. When dyeing with indigo first, and then Styphnolobium japonicum, yellow color was not well dyed, and low level of saturation caused lusterless color. Ordering of Styphnolobium japonicum${\rightarrow}$sappan wood${\rightarrow}$indigo made the best result of complex dyeing in case of complex dying with Styphnolobium japonicum and indigo. Dyeing order, sappan wood first and then indigo last method shown 560~640 nm wavelength of maximum absorption which most color was blue related. In contrast, Indigo first and then sappan wood method shown 460~560nm wavelength of maximum absorption which color was red related. Complex dyeing with sappan wood and indigo was showing lusterless color. In case of dyeing with red and blue, dyeing with sappan wood and indigo was not appropriate.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.16-24
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• 1995

Traditionally dyeing fabric with dyestuff extracted from Indigo was a popular method of obtaining blue color in the world before synthetic dyestuff was developed in the 1890's. As the Korean traditional process of dyeing extracted from Indigo, there are two kinds of dyeing process; The deposite dyeing of muddy Indigo and the leaf dyeing of Indigo plant. In order to study the properties of leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing properties, color difference on cotton and silk fabrics under several dyeing conditions were investigated. In the dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing affinity of silk was higher than that of cotton, the cotton and silk fabrics were dyed dark yellowish Green and dark Blue, respectively. the dye uptake increased with the increase of dyeing temperature and of the unmber of dyeing times. When cotton and silk fabrics dyed with leaf dyeing of Indigo at 6$0^{\circ}C$ for six number of times, the K/S value of dyed cotton and silk were calculated 1.286, 2.613 respectively.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.241-248
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• 2001

Natural indigo dyeing has been used mainly on cellulosic fibers and silk during the course of history in Korea. In order to extend the usage of this one of the most important natural dyes, its dyeability on wool fabrics has been studied to find out the optimum dyeing condition for wool fiber which is susceptible to alkaline medium. The dyeing method used was hydrosulphite vat of extracted dye. K/S values of dyed fabrics were investigated to analyze the dyeability of natural indigo on wool fibers and colors were measured through $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ and Munsell Values. Highest K/S values were obtained at the temperature of 60(C and pH 7 to 8. The Munsell Values for hue of wool fabrics dyed with extracted indigo powder using hydrosulphite vat fell mostly in PB range. As the dyebath pH increased, blueness increased. Different dyeing conditions resulted in change of colors of dyed fabrics due to the difference in amounts of indigotin and indirubin contents within the dyed fiber as shown by HPLC.