Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study on the Current Status and Dyeing Characteristics of Natural Indigo Powder Dye

천연 쪽 분말염료의 현황 및 염색특성 연구

  • 오지은 (인천대학교 대학원 의류학과) ;
  • 안춘순 (인천대학교 대학원 의류학과)
  • Received : 2011.01.07
  • Accepted : 2011.04.26
  • Published : 2011.07.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study investigates the current status and dyeing properties of various natural indigo powder dyes in the domestic market. Products from India, China, Europe are sold in the market and only a few manufacturers provide recommendation for the method of dyeing and information on the additives. Through the market research and the preliminary investigation on 21 products, 11 were selected for the dyeing experiment which include 3 Indian, 3 Chinese, 2 German, and 1 Pakistani origin indigo reduced powders, and 2 Indian origin dried indigo leaf powder. The two dyeing methods used were the precipitation method and the fresh juice method, both at $10^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, and $60^{\circ}C$. Color difference, K/S value, and colorfastness of dyed cotton fabrics were examined. Indian reduced indigo powder showed the highest K/S value, deep dyeing, and the best color fastness. Chinese reduced indigo powder resulted in a more greenish and bluish color. Powders of dried indigo leaves were easy to use but resulted in a pale color due to low dye uptake.

Keywords

References

  1. Adachi, J., Mori, Y., Matsui, S., Takigami, H., Fujino, J., Kitagawa, H., Miller, C. A., Kato, T., Saeki, K., & Matsuda, T. (2001). Indirubin and indigo are potent aryl hydrocarbon receptor ligands present in human urine. The Journal of Biological Chemistry, 276(34), 31475−31478. https://doi.org/10.1074/jbc.C100238200
  2. Bechtold, T., Turcanu, A., Geissler, S., & Gangberger, E. (2002). Process balance and product quality in the production of natural indigo from Polygonum tinctorium Ait. applying low-technologyg methods. Bioresource Technology, 81, 171−177. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0960-8524(01)00146-8
  3. Bingheogakissi. (2008). Kyuhapchongseo (Y. W. Jung, Trans.). Pajoo: Bojinjae. (Original work published 1809)
  4. Chung, I. M., Kim, H. B., Sung, G. B., Kim, Y. D., & Hong, I. P. (2005). Pure dyestuff extract from Polygonum tinctoria. Korean Journal of Sericulture Science, 47(2), 88−92.
  5. Chung, I. M., Kim, I. H., & Nam, S. W. (1998a). Structural analysis ofnatural indigo colorants extracted from polygonum tincorium. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 10(3), 20−28.
  6. Chung, I. M., Nam, S. W., & Kim, I. H. (1998b). A study on the silk dyeing with natural indigo extracted from Polygonum tinctorium-On the fermentation dyeing-. Korean Journal of Sericulture Science, 40(1), 78−85.
  7. Chung, I. M., & Woo, S. O. (2002). Effect of reducing agent, sodium hydrosulfite on the natural indigo dyeing of silk fabric. Korean Journal of Sericulture Science, 44(2), 93−98.
  8. Crews, P. C. (1987). The fading rates of some natural dyes. Studies in Conservation, 32(2), 65−72. https://doi.org/10.2307/1506293
  9. Han, S. Y., & Choi, S. C. (2000). A study on the physiological effects and dyeing properties of the extract of fermented indigo (Part II). Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 24(1), 96−104.
  10. Hong, M. S. (1989). Sallimkyungjae. Seoul: Minjokmunwhasa.
  11. Ju, J. A., & Ryu, H. S. (2004). Dyeing on cellulose fibers by the solution extracted fromnatural fresh leaves of indigo plant. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 16(5), 19−27.
  12. Jung, J. S. (2002). The use of natural dye fabrics to design of works. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 52(2), 91−101.
  13. Jung, J. S., & Sul, J. H. (2002). Color development of combination dyeing of Indian indigo and turmeric extracts, Gardenia extracts. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 26(2), 325−336.
  14. Kang, J. Y., & Ryu, H. S. (2001). Dyeability of saxon blue derived from Polygonum tinctorium. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 25(10), 1763−1769.
  15. Kim, A. S. (1995). The study on the dyeing properties of natural dyes (II)-Dyeing properties of cotton and silk fabrics by color solution extracted from leaf dyeing of indigo plant-. Journal of the Korea Society of Dyers and Finishers, 7(4), 16−24.
  16. Kim, M. K. (2010). A study on the dyeing conditions and properties of cotton fabric dyed with natural Polygonum Tinctoria. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul.
  17. Lee, J. N. (2004). Wooriga chungmal ar-rayahal chunyunyumsek. Seoul: Hyunamwa.
  18. Liau, B. C., Jong, T. T., Lee, M. R., & Chen, S. S. (2007). LC-APCI-MS method for detection and analysis of tryptanthrin, indigo, and indirubin in Daqingye and Banlangen. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, 43, 346−351. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jpba.2006.06.029
  19. Lin, Y. K., Leu, Y. L., Huang, T. H., Wu, Y. H., Chung, P. J., Su Pang, J. H., & Hwang, T. L. (2009). Anti-inflammatory effects of the extract of indigo naturalis in human neutrophils. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 125, 51−58. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2009.06.014
  20. Minami, Y., Nishimura, O., Hara-Nishimura, I., Nishimura, M., & Hiroshi, M. (2000). Tissue and intracellular localization of indican and the purification and characterization of indican synthase from indigo plants. Plant and Cell Physiololgy, 41(2), 218-225. https://doi.org/10.1093/pcp/41.2.218
  21. Park, Y. J., Yun, J. G., Jang, H. G., & Heo, B. G. (2005). Effect of dyeing conditions on dyeing chracteristics in silk during natural dyeing using the raw juice of indigo plants. Korean Journal of Plant Research, 18(3), 417−423.
  22. Seo, Y. K. (1983). Limwonkyungjaeji. Seoul: Bokyungmoonhwasa.
  23. Seo, H. S. (2008). The experimental study on anti-inflammation and anti-oxidation of Indigo Naturalis and Rehmanniae Padix. The Journal of Korean Oriental Medical Ophthalmology & Orolaryngology & Dermatology, 21(3), 104−110.
  24. Shin, Y., Cho, A., & Yoo, D. I. (2010). Natural indigo dyeing of cotton fabric-One-step reduction/dyeing process-. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 22(2), 101−109. https://doi.org/10.5764/TCF.2010.22.2.101
  25. Shin, Y., Son K., & Yoo, D. I. (2008). Tencel dyeing by natural indigo prepared from dyer's knotweed. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 32(12), 1963−1970. https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.12.1963
  26. Shin, Y., Son, K., & Yoo, D. I. (2009a). Dyeing properties and storage stability of leaf powder prepared from dyer's knotweed (I)-By freeze drying method-. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 21(1), 10−20.
  27. Shin, Y., Son, K., & Yoo, D. I. (2009b). Dyeing properties and storage stability of leaf poder prepared from dyer's knotweed (II)-By hot air and room temperature dring methods-. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 21(4), 23−32.
  28. Son, K., Shin, Y., & Yoo, D. I. (2010). Natural indigo dyeing of wool by the one step reduction/dyeing method. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 34(3), 508−517. https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.3.508
  29. Song, S. W., & Cho, K. R. (2008). Dyeing properties of cotton fabrics dyed with extract from dry leaf of indigo plant. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 20(3), 18−24. https://doi.org/10.5764/TCF.2008.20.3.018
  30. Stocker, K. G., Cooke, D. T., & Hill, D. J. (1998). An improved method for the large scale processing of woad (Isatis tinctoria) for possible commercial production of woad indigo. Journal of Agricultural Engineering Research, 71, 315−320. https://doi.org/10.1006/jaer.1998.0329
  31. Torimoto, N. (1987). An indigo plant as a teaching material. Journal of Chemical Education, 64(4), 332−334. https://doi.org/10.1021/ed064p332
  32. Woo, H. R. (2010). Physical specifications and functionality regarding natural indigo dyeing on hanji fabrics. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Konkuk University, Seoul.
  33. Yang, J. S., & Chung, I. H. (2005). A study on the natural dyeing of knit material utilizing ramie 1-Focusing on Persicaria tinctoria, Chinese scholar tree, Sappan wood-. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 11(4), 109−117.
  34. Ye, Y., Salmon, L. G., & Cass, G. R. (2000). The ozone fading of traditional Chinese plant dyes. Journal of the American Institute for Conservation, 39(2), 245−257. https://doi.org/10.2307/3180094
  35. Yoo, H. J. (2007). Dyeing protein fiber to green color using natural mugwort and indigo. Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, 45(4), 53−59.
  36. Yoo, H. J., & Lee, H. J. (2003). Color-matching of fabrics by natural dyeing using indigo and safflower. Journal of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers, 15(4), 32−38.
  37. Yoo, H. J., Lee, H. J., Han, Y. S., Song, K. H., Kim, J. H., & Ahn, C. (2007). Textile dyeing and finishing. Seoul: Hyungseul Publisher.

Cited by

  1. The Effect of Sodium dithionite in Dyeing with Indigo Pulverata Levis vol.27, pp.2, 2015, https://doi.org/10.5764/TCF.2015.27.2.155
  2. Indigo Dyeing of Mongolian Cashmere Fiber vol.40, pp.6, 2016, https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2016.40.6.979
  3. Analysis of the Pigment Contents of Commercial Indigo Powders and Their Effect on the Color and the Antimicrobial Function of Dyed Cotton Fabrics vol.37, pp.1, 2013, https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.1.17
  4. Dyeing Properties and Functionality of Methanol Extract from Juniperus chinensis Heartwood vol.25, pp.3, 2013, https://doi.org/10.5764/TCF.2013.25.3.194
  5. Study on the Dyeability and the Colorfastness of Imported Commercial Raw Indigo Powder Dye on Cotton Fabric vol.20, pp.4, 2012, https://doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.4.463
  6. Isolation and Characterization of Comamonase sp. and Microbacterium sp. from Deep Blue Sediment Dye of Polygoum tinctoria, Niram vol.28, pp.1, 2013, https://doi.org/10.7841/ksbbj.2013.28.1.60
  7. Study on the Improvement of Dyeability of Commercial Indigo Leaf Powder for the Purpose of Utilizing It in Indigo Dyeing vol.38, pp.4, 2014, https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2014.38.4.540