• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.56-69
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of Korean costume colors according to the diachronic stages of culture(Chosun dynasty, Modern times, Present age) and to interpretate the meanings of costume colors as a cultural code. To examine the color characteristics according to the cultural change, the quantitative analysis and the qualitative analysis were used. For the quantitative analysis 1535 color samples were collected and for the qualitative analysis on the sensitive aspect of Korean costume color, 340 color names were collected. The results of this study as follows; 1.'Red' and 'Blue' were preferred throughout the periods. In Chosun dynasty, the higher saturation of 'Red' and 'Blue', its symbolic meanings were more emphasized. 2. In the Modern times, 'Pink' was more distinctive than 'Red'. 'Pink' meant that the ecdysis of the traditional view of color. 3.'Yellow' of the low Saturation was used frequently in Chosun dynasty but in the Modern times, the use of 'Yellow' increased and the high saturation were used. In the Present age, the frequency of 'Yellow' was reduced relating to the increasing use of 'Brown'. 4.'Neutral Color' has changed according to the diachronic stages of the culture. 'Black' was increased and had a big meaning in the cultural aspect of the Modern times. In the Present age, 'Gray' and 'grayish colors' were increased related to Technology, Metals and High rise buildings.

• 복식
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• 제46권
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• pp.109-132
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• 1999

The purpose of this research is to get basic data for R&D to activate and popularize the Practical Korean Costume. This research was carried out by theoretical study with literature and practical study with development of model based on the result of questionnaire. 1. In theoretical study the concept of 'Korean-image' of modern costume as well as 'Modernization' of Korean traditional costume has been suggested and 'traditional beauty of costume' which can be evaluated generally was considered. 2. In practical study the results of the questionnaire showed the objective numerical value of the element of Korean design which is firmly recognized by korean people. With the results the methods of development and composition of design have been suggested in the harmony of 'traditional' and 'modern' through the modernization in terms of form composition fabric color. It is expected that development direction of Practical Korean Costume which can be settled in everyday life with more independent cultural identity should be suggested. Additionally the research results will be useful for merchandise planning of costume industry.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.821-829
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• 2010

The men's costume of eighteenth century showed feminine image of elegant decoration through the influence of social feminine atmosphere. As years go, heading towards the end of the eighteenth century, most of men's wear were simplified except vest, which had gorgeous decorations showing feminity. Therefore, men's vest of eighteenth was regarded as good item to apply to modern women's wear. The men's vest design of eighteenth century were divided into three types due to the passage of time, they showed the difference in the length, detail and trimming. Cutting lines in the modern fashion are used to give comfort and show the three-dimensional body silhouette. Also, cutting lines, as a decoration element, can define the costume's image and characteristics. Therefore, by using cutting lines, we can represent historical costume as modern costume and men's wear as women's wear. I made five women's costumes applying design characteristics of the men's vest of the eighteenth century. These five women's costumes have decorative aspect of men's vest of eighteenth century and simple aspect of men's costume. I applied dart manipulation in several different ways to make various cutting lines for women's costume. These cutting lines were emphasized by matching various colors and patterns of fabrics. I made small buttons and cords of these various fabrics. I sewed fabric buttons on five costumes for the purpose of function and decoration like buttons of the men's vest of eighteenth century. I applied fabric cords to decorate five costumes in various way. We should further study how to express important characteristics of historical costumes as modern costume in many ways.

• 복식
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• 제26권
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• pp.69-85
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• 1995

Recently Southeast Asia has developed, so the world concerns about these regions. Ethnic fashion in 90's is mostly the influence of these regions' folk costume. The purpose of this study is to review aes-thetic aspects of folk costume in Southeast Asia, to investigate the influence on modern fashion and to predict the possibility of Asia fashion's adaption to modern fashion and to help the cre-ation of fashion design. First of all, the folk costume in Southeast Asia is classified drapery style and sarong style. These non-west clothing appeal to modern fashion as the oriental tranditional beauty. Ethnic fashion appeared in 1990's is attempted to be more complex and variable than the pre-vious ethnic fashion. Asian ethnic fashion influenced from folk costume of Southeast Asia is-wholly or party-the style, color, motif from each country's folk costume. And each country's unique art became the motive of the creative design. Specially, Aosai and Quan in Vietnam and sar-ong style in most Southeast Asia are important motives expressing minority's nostalgia. These are expressed in variable ways. Which are harmonized with latest other fashion trend : retro style and naturalism, Layered look, hippie look, unfinished sewing technic and manual technic are used one image matched the folk costume of Southeast Asia which is natural. Another characterstic in Asian ethnic fashion is a multi-ethnic. This harmonizes the different culture between the Orient and the West beyond the age and culture, and combines each folk costume. It is involved that the fashion can develop indivisual country's costumes mixed with her own unique characteristics and the fashion break the traditional concept and disagree with a certain coordinate rule and it indicates that the fashion shows various style, mood, volume and room as well as space. Like this recent Asian ethnic fashion comes to us in a strange favor. The people who are tired of traditional western civilization's outcome will receive a great tastes from the Asian ethnic fashion.

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.149-162
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• 1997

In this paper it was observed that the influences of social environment that had been saturated by the modern awareness and west-ern culture effected largely on clothing. Also it was studied how and by what en-vironmental factors the costume during the enlightening period was accepted and devel-oped in Korea relative to social cultural en-vironment. In this research the emphasis was placed on the process of changing to western clothing especially the influence of Group Clothing on the general women's clothing. Therefore the types of group clothing and its influences were studied. in this study the types of group clothing recalled were modern women's clothing mission-ary women's clothing professional women's such as nurse uniforms school girls' uniforms and the invention of women's sports wear. And lastly it was searched for the direction of developent in apparels. From the above mentioned we can conclude that the clothing is inseparable from social and cultural Invironments and foreign affairs of politics at the time. Also it is considered that the types of group styles were the necessary happenings in the early stage of modern so-ciety. Because of historical situation in Korea the western clothing style had taken place in a short period of time. however Korean women's clothing which had been centerred around group clothing was considered to have changed from Korean traditional costume to western clothing by rational decisions of modern awareness in-stead of sudden change from traditional clothing to western clothing by indiscrete acceptance of western culture.

• 복식
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• 제1권
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• pp.131-150
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• 1977

The new sense of costume is controlled by silhouette. The sense of the times is sensitively reflected in silhouette. For we can perceive the transition of the times through silhouette it is significant to know what course of changes the western costume, which almost became the international costume today, had been going through. I began with the definition and condition of silhouette in this study of silhouette. I took a general survey of silhouette study-ing various kinds of silhouette and the relation between the material and silhouette. I sought the factors which causec the changes in costume and also studies the process of the changes The process of the costume changes is studied by the order of ancient times, mediaeval times, mordern ages and present days. I selected one representative silhouette of women's costume of each period. The darpery form of the ancient time's costume became the tunic form and the tunic form became the tight tunic form today. From this we can perceive that the Gothic period was the limitation of westrn costume. It means that the ancient times was the period of drapery, the midiaeval times was the period of transition from tunic into tight tunic and the modern ages is the period of development of tight tunic. In Egyptian period thin materials were used for costume which was worn in exposed style. In Greek period the costume had the drapery style. The Roman's magnificent costume resembled the Greek's. The mediaeval costume was formed in Byzantium where the northern Europe style of costume was mixed with the gay oriental costume. The Romanesque and Gothic period followed the Byzantine period completing the midiaeval costume. Tight tunic is developed in modern ages. Italian fashion of tight tunic was the first fashion of the modern ages. Germanic and spanish fashion came after it. As Baroque period opened the French royal costume became magnificent and added Brition fashish to it. With the commencement of the modern ages the royal fashion came to an end. Modernages became peaple's period and the costume was simplified. After the First world wav designers and fashion books appeared with the development of technology. Thus the period of fashion industry came. For the designers in 20th country competed to create new designs, the fashion was changed year by year. The simplicity and practicality are not ignored in design, arid the designers added more atristic sense to dresses.

• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2004

The objective of this study is to contemplate both the formation and the aesthetic characteristics of the ballerina look represented in modern fashion by analyzing a ballet costume. The results of this study could be summarized as the following: the ballerina look is formed by ballet costume itself with being stick to or exposing human body line, or by casual dress mixed with a ballet costume; the materials consist of both the major materials for a ballet costume such as silk, chiffon, tulle, lace, or organza, and the usual materials for casual dress: a variety of color such as transparent, pastel etc. is also used with typically used colors like white and black: decoration is basically composed of ruffle, drape, gather and the distinctive accessory like toe shoes, ribbon tape, ankle warmer is used to show a feature of a ballet costume These formative characteristics of the ballerina look presented in modern fashion implies illusory, pure, and hybridity. traits. First, illusion of the ballerina look not only implicitly expresses a womans wish to experience a ballerina's fantastic world, but also recreates woman herself into a ballerina on a stage. Second, purity of the ballerina look makes design look feminine and smooth, which is expressed with girlish taste through materials and colors. Third, hybridity of the ballerina look suggests a standard of a new trend, which is active style, by adding comfortableness and flexibleness to romantic femininity.

• 복식
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.149-161
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to consider the origin and kinds of tango and to analyze formative characteristics of tango dance costume. On the basis of the review of literature about tango, photos of tango dance and modern fashion collections designed by tango themes are analysed to examine design elements which are essentially considered in dance costume design. The result of this study are as follows: This study shows the different characteristics of tango dance costume depend on the kind of tango. In case of Argentina tango, sheath silhouette dress and black color are preferred, for Continental tango, fit and flare silhouette which gives convenient movement in dress and white color emphasize the elegant movement are preferred. America tango accentuates the body movement by fitted silhouette, metallic materials, and bead trimmings in dress. The result of the analysis of recent fashion collection shows that characteristics especially strong and sensual tango are mainly an inspiring motive and reinterpreted by designers in modern fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.380-392
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate a comparison between method of depaysement of Surrealism and modern costume. Surrealism was based on Freud's theory of uncon\ulcornersciousness and Hegelian dialectic. I found that its method of expression and inspiration have a continuous influence on a field of fashion through preceding study. Surrealism stimulated Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) to make creative and innovative costume which created a sensatio.i1 the world of fashion in 1930. And it have been influence on modern fashion. From this point of view, I examined surrealistic painter of Rene Magritte (1898-1967) to use shocking method of depaysement through literature and photographes. And I made researches on Paris London collcetions from 1989 to 1994 in the cause of analysis a comparison with depaysement in painting of R. Magritte. As the result of analysising main works of R.Magritte according classification of Suzi Gabric (an art critic), he was expressive of usual object in various of depaysement. I also proved that modern fashion which was new shocking, innovative and avant-garde presented unconsciousness through these expression of depaysement with common subject. In consequence, the method of expression of surrealism have been a durable influence on modern costume.

• 복식
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• 제53권7호
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• pp.1-7
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• 2003

The purpose of this study contains evaluation of techno-cyber fashion, specifically in the area of dancing costume which symbolize the stage performing art of techno-cyber fashion's formative elements. The way of study is to make foundation with the theory and picture backgrounds to analyze the fashion trends and finally produce symbolic dance costume which applies modern dance stage costume design to techno-cyber elements. The 'Adieu 1999' is the modern dance work contains social mood in retrospect of 20 century and prepare 21 century. To make design of dance costume, apply the simple geometrical pattern design which utilize techno-cyber element like hi-tech fabrics, see-through and image of band and finally produce costume both 20 and 21 century.