• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• International Journal of Highway Engineering
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.87-95
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• 2018

PURPOSES : A geo-grid pavement, e.g., a stress-absorbing membrane interlayer (SAMI), can be applied to an asphalt-overlay method on the existing surface-pavement layer for pavement maintenance related to reflection cracking. Reflection cracking can occur when a crack in the existing surface layer influences the overlay pavement. It can reduce the pavement life cycle and adversely affect traffic safety. Moreover, a failed overlay can reduce the economic value. In this regard, the objective of this study is to evaluate the bonding properties between the rigid pavement and a SAMI by using the direct shear test and the pull-off test. The predicted fractural energy functions with the shear stress were determined from a numerical analysis of the moving average method and the polynomial regression method. METHODS : In this research, the shear and pull-off tests were performed to evaluate the properties of mixtures constructed using no interlayer, a tack-coat, and SAMI with fabric and without fabric. The lower mixture parts (describing the existing pavement) were mixed using the 25-40-8 joint cement-concrete standard. The overlay layer was constructed especially using polymer-modified stone mastic asphalt (SMA) pavement. It was composed of an SMA aggregate gradation and applied as the modified agent. The sixth polynomial regression equation and the general moving average method were utilized to estimate the interlayer shear strength. These numerical analysis methods were also used to determine the predictive models for estimating the fracture energy. RESULTS : From the direct shear test and the pull-off test results, the mixture bonded using the tack-coat (applied as the interlayer between the overlay layer and the jointed cement concrete) had the strongest shear resistance and bonding strength. In contrast, the SAMI pavement without fiber has a strong need for fractural energy at failure. CONCLUSIONS : The effects of site-reflection cracking can be determined using the same tests on cored specimens. Further, an empirical-mechanical finite-element method (FEM) must be done to understand the appropriate SAMI application. In this regard, the FEM application analy pavement-design analysis using thesis and bonding property tests using cored specimens from public roads will be conducted in further research.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.29
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• pp.1-32
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• 2023

The Paintings of a 60^th Wedding Anniversary Ceremony Created by an Unknown Painter (Deoksu 6375), housed by the National Museum of Korea, is a five-panel painting book depicting scenes from a wedding ceremony. Hoehonrye is a type of repeated wedding ceremony to commemorate a couple's 60th wedding anniversary with congratulations from the community. The paintings of the book record five scenes from the wedding: jeoninrye, a ceremony where the groom brings a wooden wild goose to the bride's house; gyoberye, the groom and the bride bowing to each other; heosurye, pouring liquor to toast to the couple's longevity; jeopbin, offering tea to guests; and a banquet to celebrates the couple's 60th wedding anniversary. The book describes figures, buildings and a variety of items in detail with delicate brushstrokes. The techniques were examined using microscopy, infrared, and X-ray irradiation and hyperspectral imaging analysis. The invisible parts were examined to identify the rough sketch and distinguish pigments and dyes used for each color. The components of the pigments were determined by X-ray fluorescence analysis, while the dyes were identified by UV-vis spectrometry. Microscope observation revealed that the fabric used for the paintings was raw silk thread with almost no fiber twist, and plain silk fabric. Hyperspectral imaging analysis, X-ray fluorescence analysis, and UV-vis spectrometry confirmed that the white pigment was white lead and the black was chinese ink. The red pigments were using red clay, cinnabar, and a mixture of cinnabar and minium. Brown was made using red clay and organic dyes, and yellow using gamboge. Green was identified as indigo, malachite, chrome green, barium sulfide, and blue as azurite, smalt, and indigo. The purple dye was estimated as a mixture of indigo and cochineal, and gold parts were used gold powder. Hyperspectral images were distinguished parts damaged and conservation treatment area.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.47-59
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• 2008

The recent trend of Sports Wear is seeking functionality and fashion at the same time, where the spread of sportism becomes caual style leading street fashion. Sports Wear is classified into active Sports Wear and Sports casual Wear, in which active Sports Wear is expanded to a mixture with Sports casual wear. The purpose of this study is to research the trend of materials used in active Sports Wear and Sports casual wear. Materials used for jacket/jumper, pants and t-shirts of active Sports Wear and Sports casual wear, and high-tech functional materials used for active Sports Wear have been analyzed. The results of the study are the following: a) Most of the materials used for Sports Wear are polyester, nylon, cotton, and a mixture of cotton and polyester. Active Sports Wear uses functional materials and texture such as Dri-Fit, which absorbs and dries fast, whereas Sports casual wear satin, cire and denim has been used to keep up with the trend rather than focusing in functionality: b) companies such as Nike and Adidas have used many high-tech materials to emphasize the functionality of Sports Wear, while Puma stresses on fashion rather than function, however uses spandex in order for the consumer to feel comfortable during physical activities; c) active Sports Wear in jacket/jumper, pants and t-shirts uses functional material and texture, however Sports casual wear uses satin and cire to keep up with the fashion trend rather than functionality; d) and Nike uses high-tech funtional materials for its Sports Wear in therma-fit, Clima-fit, Dri-fit and storm-fit, whereas Adidas uses Clirna-lite, Clirna-proof, Clima-warm, and Clirna-cool in their active Sports Wear.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.114-119
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• 1993

The weight loss for the mixture(raw-silk/PET) was tested to investigate the effects of weight loss accelerator on the degumming and weight loss. The degumming loss of raw-silk was decreased while the weight loss polyester(PET) was increased depending on the increase of accelerator concentration. The difference of the weight loss was not significant in raw-silk but the weight loss of PET was increased with the increase of the alkali concentration. The proper degumming of raw-silk was obtained and simultaneously the weight loss of PET was high for the raw-silk/PET "A" and "B" type. The proper degumming of raw-silk was obtained but the weight loss of PET was low for the raw-silk/PET "D" and "E" type. It showed that the typical degumming curve in raw-silk part and the weight loss of PET was increased depending on the treatment time in the weight loss for the fabric composed of raw-silk and PET.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.249-257
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• 2003

For the efficiency in extracting gromwell colorant, methanol, ethanol and aceton were used as solvents. Also, to compare the results when dyed in various conditions and on various fabrics, the ratio of water-dye mixture, pH, temperature, and varieties of fabrics -wool, silk, cotton, nylon, ramie- were selected. L, a, b, ΔE, munsell and K/S value of each sample was measured and compared for the practical use. Water-dye mixture of 5:5 ratio showed the optimum dyeability. Not to mention wool and silk, but also cotton showed a satisfying dying result at the acidity of pH4. As the temperature increased, the dyeability of all three fabrics improved greatly. Especially, wool showed the highest improvement in terms of dyeability as the temperature increased. K/S values for wool and nylon showed superior results to the others in the gromwell colorant. The resulting color turned out somewhat different depending on the solvents used and the sort of fabric that was tested on. When the gromwell colorant extracted with methanol or ethanol was applied, the color of fabrics came out as purple or purpleblue. When the colorant extracted with acetone was used, the color of fabrics came out to be redpurple. The colorfastness to light showed low glades regardless to whichever solvents were used. The grades of colorfastness to laundering were recorded low numerical values, and its record became even lower when the gromwell colorant extracted with aceton was applied. The staining grade of the colorfastness to laundering showed a good grade in the range of 4 to 5. All the dyed fabrics showed a excellent drycleaning fastness.

• Journal of Korean Society of Environmental Engineers
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• v.27 no.9
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• pp.946-951
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• 2005

In this wort plasma treatment was evaluated as an alternative clean desizing technology. Size materials such as PVA(polyvinyl alcohol), PACL(polyacrylic acid esters) and their mixture on PET(polyethylene terephthalate) fabrics were treated by $N_2$ and $O_2$ plasma. $O_2$ plasma was more efficient in size removal than $N_2$ plasma, and the removal of PVA was higher than that of PACL. SEM(scanning emission microscopy) pictures of the plasma treated samples directly proved the disappearance of sizing agents. After $O_2$ plasma treatment, the PET fabrics were subjected to conventional desizing process. Compared with untreated fabrics, the desizing effluent from the treated fabrics gave lower TOC, COD and $BOD_5$ values. This indicates plasma treatment not only serves to directly remove sizing agents but also offered several advantages by changing the chemical properties of sizing agents. Lastly, the effect of plasma desizing process on dyeing was examined using color difference and dyeing fastness tests. The CCM(computer color matching) results showed rotor difference between PET fabric desized by $O_2$ plasma treatment for 20 min and reference PET fabric desized by the conventional wet desizing process was around 1. This suggests the treated PET fabric can be directly subjected to dyeing process without any additional process. The plasma treated fabric also gave a good result of dyeing fastness so that grades of laundering, crocking, heat and light fastness were same or even better than the reference PET fabric did.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.439-444
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• 2005

This article describes the change in the hand value of chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH), 2% aqueous acetic acid and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide. It proposed that the crosslinking and mercerizing were performed with the mixture of four different molecular weight chitosan and ECH in a single step. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle roller, pre-dried at $130^{\circ}C$, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution and finally washed and dried. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were measured on concentration and molecular weight by Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. As the concentration of chitosan solution increased, LT, WT, B, 2HB were increased. WT, B, 2HB, MIU, SMD, $T_0$, $T_m$ were decreased when chitosan was depolymerized. On the other hand, RT was increased when chitosan was depolymerized.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.276-283
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to develop an effective dyeing process for black color on the silk fabrics, using natural Indigo, Madder, Amur cork tree, Alder, Logwood, and Gallnut. All natural dye materials were water-extracted, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Seven different processes were carried out and the color differences(${\Delta}E$) of black color with each process from the chemical black dyed fabric were compared. The light, washing, and rubbing fastness were evaluated. The black dyeing of the silk fabrics was well carried and excellent black color was obtained in every methods. The profound black color could be obtained by the subtractive mixture of the three primary colors of red, yellow, and blue in the order of indigo(blue) - amur cork tree(yellow) - madder or lac(red). Black color was efficiently obtained by iron mordant when logwood or alder fruit was used. The color difference(${\Delta}E$) from the black color with chemical dyestuff was the lowest in the indigo - amur cork tree - lac - iron method. Light fastness and washing fastness were excellent in all dyeing processes, showing grade 5. The fastness to rubbing was excellent as shown grade 5 in the dry samples of logwood - iron process and alder fruit - iron process.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.10
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• pp.21-27
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• 2009

This bamboo brush stand was made by attaching two bamboo tubes together, each 80mm in diameter. On the bottom is a "∞-shaped"wood board made of Ailanthus altissima. The surfaces are decorated with exquisite and dynamic designs of a dragon and clouds, and a deer and pine trees. Part of this bamboo brush stand was damaged, lost, or worn down, prior to conservation treatment. After conservation and recovery treatment, its original form was restored. Earth powder, chalk, and gluten mixture were used as materials to fill in the missing parts. After the original form was restored, thin silk fabric was attached to the inner surface of the glued part to prevent cracking. Traditional materials and repair techniques were used to allow for reversal of treatment, if necessary, as seen in the surface of the restored part being made antiquated with lacquer varnish.