• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.95-102
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• 1997

This study is aimed for men's jacket draft not only to other style but also helping for men's jacket fits for trend by presenting the course to get a style we want by adding to the partial drafty changes in existing pattern of men's formal jacket selected two kinds of men's jacket style fit for 1997 S/S trend. In this 1997 S/S trend, the trend I of the characteristic formal jacket is a style slim expressed over the basic formal wear, and trend II of the characteristic casual jacket appears to women's wear that roundly expressed by collar line of V-zone returened back by the shoulder line of jacket made of a big diagonal wrinkled line of X-style in front centered around a button of center front line. In this study, it called that the existing traditional formal jacket of men is a A style of jacket and jacket style I, II is a jacket B, C style. Jacket A, B, C style, a distingtion in draft that added to make form an oblique wrinkled line of the X-shaped-making artificially to the front button line sharply distinguished by eyes will be come out by control of front neck width over the back neck width. According to this, we shall be found that place of front neck point is a cardinal point in draft that will be added any changes in a style of jacket.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.105-114
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• 2021

This study aims to evaluate the differences in visual images due to the variations in the silhouette and jacket type of men's suits. Six samples were used for this study: 3 examples had variations in the silhouette while 2 variations were in the jacket type. They were evaluated using a 7-point rating scale and a survey was conducted among 80 fashion students. The data was analyzed by Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Scheffé Test, and the MCA method. This study's results are as follows: 1) According to Factor Analysis, the components of visual evaluation by the silhouette and the jacket type of men's suit were classified into: attractiveness, masculinity, practicality, and naturalness. Among these factors, attractiveness and masculinity were evaluated to be the most important factors. 2) Men's suits with a single-breasted jacket had a simple and practical images in fitted and boxy silhouettes. Double-breasted jacket suits showed sexy, refined, and chic images in the fitted and slim silhouettes, and expressed an adult, profound, and conservative images in the boxy and fitted silhouettes. 3) The silhouette and the jacket type of men's suit interacted with masculinity and the practicality. Fitted and slim silhouette suits had different images that looked adult, profound, and conservative depending on the jacket type, but the boxy silhouette suit did not show the same effect. 4) According to the MCA on the attractiveness and the naturalness, the jacket type affected the visual image of men's suit more than the silhouette. Double-breasted jacket suits had more sexy, refined, and chic image than the single-breasted jacket suits. Men's suits with a single-breasted jacket had a more comfortable and natural image than those with a double breasted jacket.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.80-92
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• 1999

The objectives of this study were to investigate the relation between personality(activity, emotional stability, and dominance) and clothing design preferences, and to examine the differences of clothing design preferences according to demographic variables of men. Subjects for the study were 255 male white-collar workers ranging in ages from twenties to fifties, in Seoul and Kwangju City, Korea. The men with higher activity of personality preferred the double jacket with 4 buttons, the combination of light color jacket and dark trousers, glen check pattern jacket, herringbone pattern jacket, light beige color dress shirts. The higher the emotional stability, the higher the preferences on diverse patterns such as fine stripe, plaid, hound\`s-tooth check, and small check pattern. The men with higher dominance preferred dark blue color suit, glen check pattern suit, and necktie of red circle, and disliked the necktie of gray circle. The men in their 20\`s and 30\`s liked the single jacket with 3 buttons, the suit of fine stripe and the necktie of gray circle more among three income groups. The higher the men\`s age and income were, the more they liked the conservative style such as a single jacket with 2 buttons. The men who reside in Seoul liked the suit of gray circle, the jacket and trousers of same color, the patternless jacket, and the patternless suit more than the men in Kwangju. Therefore, the men in methropolitan area preferred conservative clothing image. Fine stripe pattern and patternless materials were preferred when men wore jacket and trousers of same color, while glen check pattern was preferred as the pattern of jacket when jacket and trousers of different color. Male white-collar worker liked single jacket more than double jacket, and preferred the dark blue color suit and necktie, patternless suit, fine stripe suit, and the pale blue dress shirts generally. The present findings provide that the personality of male has influence on the clothing design preferences, and it is possible to infer men\`s personality by their attire.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.41-57
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• 2006

The purpose of this study were to provide dress forms and men's jacket blocks based on the analysis of their somatotype. As the result of the previous research, based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 year-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth and master size was selected considering appearance frequency. Somatotype YS(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 91cm) and HD1(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and men's jacket block in the study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of somatotype YS and HD1 were provide base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New men's jacket blocks of somatotype YS and HD1 were developed based on the body surface extracted by draping and the result of comparative investigation on the conventional jacket patterns by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new men's jacket blocks were provided. 3. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly than existing patterns.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.151-161
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of Men's Jacket design in Paul Smith. According to the Change of Gender Image. Following study comprehends gender images and the concept of man's jacket through series of collected data and observes the influence that sociocultural background had upon men's wear. A standard of contemporary men's jacket, the subject of this study, is established based on the review of literature. According to this specific standard, photos of men's jacket were obtained from Paul Smith men collection and from these data the characteristics of men's jacket were analyzed. The method of this following study was to establish a standard of data collection from review of literature and to gather 721 photos of men's jacket from Paul Smith, which consistently appeared in first view korea for 28 seasons from 2001 s/s collection to 2014 f/w collection. Design characteristics of collected data were categorized by shape, color, fabric. This study brought forth following results. Paul Smith's jacket had more X-shape silhouette of feminine image. Color was mostly low chroma of RB series, so that masculine images could be pointed out. Compared to other brands, from 2004 to 2006, more jackets with natural pattern and abstract pattern were widely seen. In terms of fabric, feminine fabrics with glossy and flexible characteristics were used.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.62-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop men's formal jacket pattern for the Korean males of age 25 to 34 age with an average physique. Through the survey on seven industries of the ready-made men's wear, we investigated size systems and jacket patters presently practiced. From the fitting test of four patterns (three for ready-made jacket patterns, one for educational pattern) the moat favorable and comfortable pattern was selected. New experimented jacket pattern was based on it. The findings were as followed. 1) Survey of the domestic ready-made garment industries showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own size systems. 2) Anthropometric measurments of forty males for the subjects of lilting test were agreed to the survey of National Anthropometric of Korean(1997). These were also compatible to the standard size (100-88-175) of investigated industries. 3) Experimental jacket pattern was completed through the three times rectification and it gained higher ratings.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.71-79
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• 2016

This study aims to suggest the proper neck-width of slim-fit jackets according to numbers of jacket buttons from an one-button jacket to a four button jacket for men in their 30's. The researchers carried out both an appearance evaluation and a movement functionality evaluation. When analyzing the appearance evaluation, there were meaningful differences. The one-button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +2.4cm. The two-button jacket and the three button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +1.4cm. The four-button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +0.4cm. The result of movement functionality evaluation was not related to the appearance evaluation, and showed no meaningful difference. The one-button jacket and two button jacket showed high scores on the back-neck width of +2.4cm. The three button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +1.4cm. The four-button jacket showed a high score on the back-neck width of +0.4cm. In analyzing both results, the study suggests that the proper front neck-width and that of the back-neck width of +2.4cm be for the one-button jacket, the back-neck width of +1.4cm be for the two-button jacket and the three-button jacket, while the back-neck width of +0.4cm be for the four-button jacket.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.654-663
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to improve the classic jacket pattern for Korean young men whose chest circumference is 91~94cm, status is 170~175 cm, and drop value between chest and waist circumference is 15. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. Through the comparative investigation on the conventional classic jacket patterns of Hyung-sook Lee's, 문화's in Japan, and SMA's and the clothing experiment, the characteristics of every three patterns were found. 2. According to correct the unsuitable point in Hyung-sook Lee's pattern which was found more suitable than other two patterns and to refer to the product size of the ready-made classic jackets for men, the new suitable classic jacket pattern was achieved. 3. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort and one to one comparison was applied to evaluate the new classic jacket pattern by comparing with the Hyung-sook Lee' s jacket pattern. From the result of the sensory evaluation and one to one comparison, it was found that the new classic jacket pattern was more suitable for appearance and comfort. 4. From the result of this study, the suitable surplus of men's classic jacket at present is about 23~24cm on the chest circumference, 31~32 cm on the waist circumference, 14~15 cm on the hip circumference, 13~14 cm on the upper arm circumference, and 14 cm on the wrist circumference and the ease is about 3.5 cm on the armhole circumference. This size is not the absolute size but it helps to make the surplus in any other clothes for Korean young men.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.184-194
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.946-957
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• 2003

This study aimed to suggest a simple and well-fitting flat pattern drafting method for a men's jacket. Four jackets in thick muslin were made from four different drafting methods utilizing a few measures as breast girth, center back length, and chest width, which were not much different from the drafting methods of woman's jacket. The appearance of the 4 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students who had much clothing construction teaching experiences and their motion adaptability was evaluated by two wearers who belonged within the range of the average measures of the Korean male figure as reported from the 1997's Census for Standard Body Measure. A drafting method evaluated as the most well-fitting and well-functioning in general was chosen and modified to enhance the appearance and was reevaluated to confirm its fit improvement. As a result of this study, a new drafting method, simple and not much different from that of a woman's jacket pattern drafting method is proposed. Since this method is based on the minimal measures and ratios thereof, and is not as complicated as ordinary drafting methods for men's wear, the researcher expects that this drafting method allows more chances for the students to learn and understand men's wear more easily and comfortably.