• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.80-92
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• 1999

The objectives of this study were to investigate the relation between personality(activity, emotional stability, and dominance) and clothing design preferences, and to examine the differences of clothing design preferences according to demographic variables of men. Subjects for the study were 255 male white-collar workers ranging in ages from twenties to fifties, in Seoul and Kwangju City, Korea. The men with higher activity of personality preferred the double jacket with 4 buttons, the combination of light color jacket and dark trousers, glen check pattern jacket, herringbone pattern jacket, light beige color dress shirts. The higher the emotional stability, the higher the preferences on diverse patterns such as fine stripe, plaid, hound\`s-tooth check, and small check pattern. The men with higher dominance preferred dark blue color suit, glen check pattern suit, and necktie of red circle, and disliked the necktie of gray circle. The men in their 20\`s and 30\`s liked the single jacket with 3 buttons, the suit of fine stripe and the necktie of gray circle more among three income groups. The higher the men\`s age and income were, the more they liked the conservative style such as a single jacket with 2 buttons. The men who reside in Seoul liked the suit of gray circle, the jacket and trousers of same color, the patternless jacket, and the patternless suit more than the men in Kwangju. Therefore, the men in methropolitan area preferred conservative clothing image. Fine stripe pattern and patternless materials were preferred when men wore jacket and trousers of same color, while glen check pattern was preferred as the pattern of jacket when jacket and trousers of different color. Male white-collar worker liked single jacket more than double jacket, and preferred the dark blue color suit and necktie, patternless suit, fine stripe suit, and the pale blue dress shirts generally. The present findings provide that the personality of male has influence on the clothing design preferences, and it is possible to infer men\`s personality by their attire.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.62-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop men's formal jacket pattern for the Korean males of age 25 to 34 age with an average physique. Through the survey on seven industries of the ready-made men's wear, we investigated size systems and jacket patters presently practiced. From the fitting test of four patterns (three for ready-made jacket patterns, one for educational pattern) the moat favorable and comfortable pattern was selected. New experimented jacket pattern was based on it. The findings were as followed. 1) Survey of the domestic ready-made garment industries showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own size systems. 2) Anthropometric measurments of forty males for the subjects of lilting test were agreed to the survey of National Anthropometric of Korean(1997). These were also compatible to the standard size (100-88-175) of investigated industries. 3) Experimental jacket pattern was completed through the three times rectification and it gained higher ratings.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.654-663
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to improve the classic jacket pattern for Korean young men whose chest circumference is 91~94cm, status is 170~175 cm, and drop value between chest and waist circumference is 15. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. Through the comparative investigation on the conventional classic jacket patterns of Hyung-sook Lee's, 문화's in Japan, and SMA's and the clothing experiment, the characteristics of every three patterns were found. 2. According to correct the unsuitable point in Hyung-sook Lee's pattern which was found more suitable than other two patterns and to refer to the product size of the ready-made classic jackets for men, the new suitable classic jacket pattern was achieved. 3. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort and one to one comparison was applied to evaluate the new classic jacket pattern by comparing with the Hyung-sook Lee' s jacket pattern. From the result of the sensory evaluation and one to one comparison, it was found that the new classic jacket pattern was more suitable for appearance and comfort. 4. From the result of this study, the suitable surplus of men's classic jacket at present is about 23~24cm on the chest circumference, 31~32 cm on the waist circumference, 14~15 cm on the hip circumference, 13~14 cm on the upper arm circumference, and 14 cm on the wrist circumference and the ease is about 3.5 cm on the armhole circumference. This size is not the absolute size but it helps to make the surplus in any other clothes for Korean young men.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.207-220
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• 2006

The purpose of the study is to develop the basic pattern of casual jacket for men aged between 25 and 34. Compared to the tailored jackets, casual jackets are designed much more diverse form depending on the target customer, price range and moreover fashion trend. Therefore in order to reduce the cost and time of developing new style, pattern draft from the basic pattern is better approach rather than develop each style form the measurements every time. For men's casual jacket pattern draft, the basic pattern of fit and comfort was developed through following research procedures. 173 men were surveyed about their habit of buying and wearing of casual jackets. MDs and pattern designers of 10 casual wear brands for men were interviewed. As a starting point, 3 different basic patterns were selected. 2 patterns were from the 2 interviewed brands and the last one was the pattern of ESMOD. The 3 patterns were studied by means of comparing measurements and general styling. As a results it was found that the pattern of S brand is featuring I silhouette, the pattern of K brand is featuring H silhouette and the pattern of ESMOD is featuring Y silhouette. The results of wearing test showed that the pattern of S brand is the best among the three. They were to add ease around the chest line and waist line, to relocate the waist line and the break point, to increase the jacket length and upper arm width. The improved pattern was made of polyester for the wearing test. The wearing test showed developed pattern was improved significantly. To verify the use of developed basic pattern, two buttoned single jacket was made.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.953-970
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.946-957
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• 2003

This study aimed to suggest a simple and well-fitting flat pattern drafting method for a men's jacket. Four jackets in thick muslin were made from four different drafting methods utilizing a few measures as breast girth, center back length, and chest width, which were not much different from the drafting methods of woman's jacket. The appearance of the 4 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students who had much clothing construction teaching experiences and their motion adaptability was evaluated by two wearers who belonged within the range of the average measures of the Korean male figure as reported from the 1997's Census for Standard Body Measure. A drafting method evaluated as the most well-fitting and well-functioning in general was chosen and modified to enhance the appearance and was reevaluated to confirm its fit improvement. As a result of this study, a new drafting method, simple and not much different from that of a woman's jacket pattern drafting method is proposed. Since this method is based on the minimal measures and ratios thereof, and is not as complicated as ordinary drafting methods for men's wear, the researcher expects that this drafting method allows more chances for the students to learn and understand men's wear more easily and comfortably.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.95-102
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• 1997

This study is aimed for men's jacket draft not only to other style but also helping for men's jacket fits for trend by presenting the course to get a style we want by adding to the partial drafty changes in existing pattern of men's formal jacket selected two kinds of men's jacket style fit for 1997 S/S trend. In this 1997 S/S trend, the trend I of the characteristic formal jacket is a style slim expressed over the basic formal wear, and trend II of the characteristic casual jacket appears to women's wear that roundly expressed by collar line of V-zone returened back by the shoulder line of jacket made of a big diagonal wrinkled line of X-style in front centered around a button of center front line. In this study, it called that the existing traditional formal jacket of men is a A style of jacket and jacket style I, II is a jacket B, C style. Jacket A, B, C style, a distingtion in draft that added to make form an oblique wrinkled line of the X-shaped-making artificially to the front button line sharply distinguished by eyes will be come out by control of front neck width over the back neck width. According to this, we shall be found that place of front neck point is a cardinal point in draft that will be added any changes in a style of jacket.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.151-161
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of Men's Jacket design in Paul Smith. According to the Change of Gender Image. Following study comprehends gender images and the concept of man's jacket through series of collected data and observes the influence that sociocultural background had upon men's wear. A standard of contemporary men's jacket, the subject of this study, is established based on the review of literature. According to this specific standard, photos of men's jacket were obtained from Paul Smith men collection and from these data the characteristics of men's jacket were analyzed. The method of this following study was to establish a standard of data collection from review of literature and to gather 721 photos of men's jacket from Paul Smith, which consistently appeared in first view korea for 28 seasons from 2001 s/s collection to 2014 f/w collection. Design characteristics of collected data were categorized by shape, color, fabric. This study brought forth following results. Paul Smith's jacket had more X-shape silhouette of feminine image. Color was mostly low chroma of RB series, so that masculine images could be pointed out. Compared to other brands, from 2004 to 2006, more jackets with natural pattern and abstract pattern were widely seen. In terms of fabric, feminine fabrics with glossy and flexible characteristics were used.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.137-153
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• 2009

Recently, young men have become more muscular as they become more interested in physical figure. However, most of these muscular men have fit problems regarding ready-made clothes. In view of this, this study aimed to develop a prototype jacket pattern for muscular men. For this study, five muscular men were selected to put on existing jacket pattern for wearing tests. The regression formula, in which muscular men body measures were adopted, was applied to unsuitable parts, especially the areas determined not to be appropriate in the evaluation of existing jacket pattern wearing tests. After the first and the second jacket pattern wearing tests, the final jacket pattern suitable for muscular men was developed. The results of the study were as follows: In order to make up for the problem of the loosening of the lapel area, due to the development of the chest muscle, the chest circumference line on the chest area of the pattern was cut to be 1.0cm wide; thus, the front length was modified with an increase. The wearing tests found that a wearers felt discomfort from the tight armhole area, so the armhole depth was set to be a little lower than that of ready-made clothes. A muscular men needs much more extra quantity in this area because the upper part of the back side is projected due to the greater development of the trapezius muscle and the deltoid than in average men. Hence, concerning the standard line for the length of the back interscye, ease of 1.0cm was added to the regression equation formula {(0.371${\times}$chest circumference+3.145)/2} in order to resolve the discomfort with the back area. Also, for the biacromion length, the upper arm protruded more than the shoulder point of the jacket because of the development of the deltoid and the upper arm muscle, and it was set to be wider than the actual shoulder. In order to solve the problem of discomfort from the narrow neck area during the wearing of a jacket owing to the development of the trapezius muscle, extra ease of 0.5cm was added to chest circumference/12-0.5cm in the existing jacket prototype to the width of back of the neck, and it was corrected to be chest circumference/12.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권3호
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.