A Study on the Design of Men's Jacket Pattern

남성 재킷 패턴 설계에 관한 연구

  • Lee Won-Ja (Division of Apparel Design, Konkuk University) ;
  • Kim Jin-Sun (Dept. of Fashion Design, Daegu Mirae College)
  • 이원자 (건국대학교 의상텍스타일학부) ;
  • 김진선 (대구미래대학 패션디자인과)
  • Published : 2004.12.01

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.

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