• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.133-149
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• 2005

Western designers have long been inspired by exotic and mysterious looks and feelings of non-western countries in their design works. The influence of Orientalism has been prevalent not only in fashion but also in overall aspects of Western cultures ad it dated back to the B.C period. Orientalism has been interpreted differently in different ages. Orientalism has been in effect since the strong emergence of Western powers beginning in the 13th century. There have been produced many studies to analyze the tradition of Western fashion under the framework of Orientalism, but most of them have focused on women's wear and the researches on men's wear have hardly been productive, particularly on men's skirts. This paper aims to analyze the restoration movement of men's skirt fashion in Western societies such as tin America and European countries from the standpoint of Orientalism and attempts to forecast its future. The paper shows how we can reveal the identity of the tradition of men's skirt in Western fashion by making a critical comparison between the pictures of western men's skirts and those found in the folk fashion tradition in non-western countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.207-220
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• 2006

The purpose of the study is to develop the basic pattern of casual jacket for men aged between 25 and 34. Compared to the tailored jackets, casual jackets are designed much more diverse form depending on the target customer, price range and moreover fashion trend. Therefore in order to reduce the cost and time of developing new style, pattern draft from the basic pattern is better approach rather than develop each style form the measurements every time. For men's casual jacket pattern draft, the basic pattern of fit and comfort was developed through following research procedures. 173 men were surveyed about their habit of buying and wearing of casual jackets. MDs and pattern designers of 10 casual wear brands for men were interviewed. As a starting point, 3 different basic patterns were selected. 2 patterns were from the 2 interviewed brands and the last one was the pattern of ESMOD. The 3 patterns were studied by means of comparing measurements and general styling. As a results it was found that the pattern of S brand is featuring I silhouette, the pattern of K brand is featuring H silhouette and the pattern of ESMOD is featuring Y silhouette. The results of wearing test showed that the pattern of S brand is the best among the three. They were to add ease around the chest line and waist line, to relocate the waist line and the break point, to increase the jacket length and upper arm width. The improved pattern was made of polyester for the wearing test. The wearing test showed developed pattern was improved significantly. To verify the use of developed basic pattern, two buttoned single jacket was made.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.247-254
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• 2012

Objective: The objective of the study is to analyze adult men's somatotype characteristics, age range from 20s to 50s comparing the direct anthropometric measurement values and to provide the basis information for developing clothing patterns. Background: The comparative study among the age groups is very fundamental to understand the body characteristics of each subjects group. Therefore, comparison of body measurements in age groups was applied in this study. Method: The anthropometric data from the $5^{th}$ Anthropometry of Size Korea(2004) and $6^{th}$ Anthropometry of Size Korea(2010) were applied for the data analysis. Results: As a result, the chest depth/chest width index(the value of chest depth divided by chest width) was increased and the waist depth/waist width index was decreased in all age groups. In addition, the hip depth/hip width index was decreased in age of 20's and 50's. This means that the chest width and hip width were decreased and the waist width were increased. From the data of the 5th Size Korea, the obese men(BMI: 25~30) in the 50s showed the highest percentage of 47.1%, and 44.8% of obese men(BMI: 25~30) in the 40s recorded the highest rate base on the data of the 6th Size Korea. Conclusion: It is concluded that the some differences were showed between the 5th anthropometric data and the 6th data. In particular, obesity tendencies of men in their 20's and 30's were observed significantly compared to other age groups. Application: These findings from the study can be utilized men's wear design and construction that reflect body characteristics.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.71-82
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• 2016

As times change rapidly the lifestyle, personality, and values of men have changed diversely. Not only have preferences for men's clothing changed, men's fashion market has also grown, and novel, non-preexisting styles have come into place. Also, there are many studies on sensibility of women's fashion while studies on sensibility of men's fashion are insufficient. This study categorized common styles for men in their 20s into 7 different representative samples and investigated consumers' sensibility evaluations for each representative sample. Style 1 (suit), style 2 (rider jacket + skinny pants), style 3 (blouson + straight pants), style 4 (cardigan + half pants), style 5 (military jacket + straight pants), style 6 (loose fit jacket + skinny pants), and style 7 (baseball jumper + straight pants) were prepared in the evaluation questionnaire. The study compared male and female interest and knowledge of men's fashion, evaluated the sensibility difference depending on the men's fashion, analyzed whether there is a difference between preferred men's clothing and actual wearing of the clothing, and examined the preferred style in relation with the lifestyle. The results are as follows: First, men's fashion was diversified and subdivided, and interest and knowledge about men's fashion was greater for males than females. Second, sensibility of men's fashion had significant differences depending on the style, and it did not depend on genders. Third, there was a clear difference between the most favored style by the 20s and the actual style they commonly wear; the favored style and the actual worn style were consistent 66.1% of all the cases, inconsistent 33.9% of those. Style 3 had the highest preference and the actual wearing rate, and style 5 was the least preferred and worn. Fourth, the more extroverted lifestyle rather than introverted one, the more it was likely to prefer diverse styles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.84-113
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to provide for some basic data useful to production of the apparels fit and measured well for the Chinese men. For this purpose, Chinese men's apparel measurements and specifications were determined per area group(Beijing and Shanghai) according to the Men's Wear Specifications (GB/T 1335.1-1997), National Standards of People's Republic of China. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of dividing the Chinese men into Beijing and Shanghai men and thereby, setting stature and upper chest circumference for upper garments and stature and waist for lower garments. 2. As a result of analyzing the correlational distributions of stature and upper chest circumference measurements by region (Beijing and Shanghai) and type of physique, it was found that the coverage rate of the selected sizes was higher in Shanghai sample than Beijing sample in case of the sample with thicker waist circumferences. 3. As a results of analyzing the correlations according to the three-fold classifications of stature /upper chest circumference/waist for garment specifications by region (Beijing and Shanghai) and type of physique, "A" type was most covered, followed by "B", "C" and "Y" types.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.99-108
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• 2017

In modern society, the succession and development of tradition can be an enabler of the state in the flow of culture, and the process of modernizing traditional costumes is meaningful work. Neckties are essential in modern Korean men's wear, and they are an important part of men's ornamentation. Accordingly, this study aims to present a necktie design that applies the traditional men's ornaments such as the Ip, Ipyoung and Manggeonsik. The research method is based on a literature review and presents four Korean necktie designs via Adobe Illustrations. As a result of analyzing the beauty of the traditional Korean men's ornamentation, it was categorized into rhythmical beauty, emphasis beauty, and natural beauty. Applying this to necktie design, Design 1 imagined the silhouette of a man wearing a Got and Durumagi. This applied emphasis beauty. Design 2 applied the shaking images of Got and Got-kkeun to apply rhythmical and emphasis beauty. Design 3 applied a man's upper body silhouette and the shape of wearing a Got. This was to apply natural beauty and emphasis beauty. Design 4 applied the shape of Got-kkeun and Gwanja to rhythmical beauty and natural beauty. The significance of this study is that the development of necktie designs using formative Korean elements can be a part of efforts to recognize the possibility of traditional Korean culture and to explore developmental directions under the current situation in which Western clothing is accepted without thought. It is a good idea to suggest the possibility of the modern use of Korean men's ornaments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.50-59
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• 2007

This study has been conducted to classify elderly men's feet with the three-dimensional body scanner data of Size Korea. It was intended to assist the manufacturing of the shoes that can appropriately perform the functions of feet, by providing the specific information about the shapes of elderly men's feet that are altered as a result of aging and shoe-wearing for a long time. The findings are as follows. 1. The investigations into the average and standard deviation of the measurements and index values for the elderly men's feet showed a large personal difference in the items of length and circumference. 2. The factors constituting the elderly men's feet were observed to be the size of foot width(Factor 1), the central angle of feet and the extension of toes(Factor 2), the size of ankle(Factor 3), the positions of lateral malleolus and pternion(Factor 4), and the position and size of medial malleolus(Factor 5). 3. The cluster analysis for the classification of elderly men's feet produced three types of them.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.627-639
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• 2023

This study seeks to increase the satisfaction of elderly men when purchasing and wearing ready-to-wear clothes by designing a slacks pattern suitable for their body type, which is determined by analyzing their lower bodies using virtual avatars and 3D virtual simulation system. The study found the following. First, based on virtual visualization of the comparison slacks pattern, the waistline position was consistently the lowest scored question among the evaluation survey items. Interpretation of this dissatisfaction suggests that, because the front waistline falls below the abdomen, the lower body, and especially the abdominal shape, is unpleasantly emphasized. Second, by using a virtual simulation system, the study developed a new slacks pattern that considered the concerns of elderly men. The primary measurement changes were as follows: front waist girth W/4+1.5cm+0.5cm, back waist girth W/4+1.5cm-0.5cm, front hip girth H/4+2.5cm-0.5cm, back hip girth H/4+2.5cm+0.5cm. Third, the new slacks pattern's appearance was evaluated more highly than the comparison pattern, confirming the new pattern's appropriateness for elderly men. This study demonstrates how slacks and other clothing patterns designed in a 3D virtual garment simulator can be used to design more appealing clothing for elderly men, increasing the satisfaction of wearing ready-made clothes at older ages.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.450-456
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• 2016

This study examines the wearing conditions of tight-fit pants of men in their 30's in order to develop patterns for tight-fit pants. Tight-fits are loved by the young generation. This fashion has established a notable trend and demand in the casual clothing market as well as in the men's wear market. The study conducted a survey targeting Korean males in their thirties, and a total of 76 samples were used for the final analysis. The study survey showed that a growing number of men wear tight-fit pants in their daily life and prefer brands that feel more casual when it comes to expressing themselves with fashion. The men indicated a desire to look slim; however, they also wanted their clothes to be wearable and not interrupted them while moving. Sales of men's wear targeting the thirties age group have increased every year; consequently, this will study suggests that any relevant fields should first have a good understanding on men in the thirties and their needs before designing any clothes. Discussions that this study developed will be applied as a basic reference to design patterns for functionally-efficient tight-fit pants. Those pants will correspond to the physical characteristics of the thirties who transition with changes in every body part that would not occur when they are in their twenties while not disrupting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.885-898
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• 2015

This study develops scales to measure clothing consumption values for Korean male consumers. This study conducted qualitative and quantitative research to explore a new clothing consumption value among males as well as investigate empirically the measurement of clothing consumption values. In-depth interviews and focus group interviews were collected for qualitative research on 20 Korean men in their 20s-40s who had experience with 2 types of stores in Korean men's fashion. An analysis of qualitative data based on grounded theory approaches identified 6 factors and 15 items. For the empirical research, the questionnaire which consist of 9 factors and 46 items were developed by the results of grounded theory approaches and prior studies. Final measurement scales were based on 651 data used in exploratory factor analysis (EFA) and a confirmatory factor analysis (CFA). All subjects were in their 20s-40s. The result from CFA suggested 4 factors and 18 items with showing acceptable construct validity and discriminant validity. Therefore, this study confirmed that clothing consumption value for Korean male consumer consist of ostentatious and brand value, epistemic and possession value, conditional value, and reasonable value. These constructs will provide critical insight in understanding and segmenting Korean male consumers.