• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.107-122
• /
• 2012

This thesis takes it an aim to analyze and compare the visual images which results from attaching the voluminous changes of the waist gathering to the basic Sarrouel pants, one of the Islamic costume, and also from the three body type influenced by these changes. The method of the investigation was to select basic designs of the Sarrouel pants, then the three pieces of the experimental clothes called pattern 1(50%), pattern 2(100%), and pattern 3(150%) were made respectively. The 3 types of the adult women were selected as models in a way to represent the S(S1), M(S2), L(S3) the female body indices of the K. S. The models wearing the 3 types of experimental clothes were taken pictures from the front, side and back, which the pictures were used for the evaluations for the visual effects. For the evaluation, the questionaire from 12 to 18, associated with the body types and images respectively were completed and collected in an investigative way. The visual effects by the waist gathering and body size are composed body and image emerged the four factors. Conclusively, the volume of the waist gathering gives a benefit only in terms of the appropriateness in which the voluminous gatherings compensate for the defects of the body type while too much gathering leads to the negative effects. The visual effects from the increased gathering gives the impressions of the more activity with the snugness as it decreases the feminine effects. The evaluation indices like the stiffness or the masculine images might be more or less predominant in this case. This might be ascribed to the fact that the Sarrouel pants were originated from the men's trousers in a real sense.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.100-116
• /
• 2008

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.6
• /
• pp.789-795
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.46 no.1
• /
• pp.63-72
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the appearance management behaviors and motives differentiated by the body image of college men. A questionnaire was designed for the survey and the subjects were 228 college in Pusan and the Kyongnam province, Korea. The statistical analyses were carried out in the forms of frequency, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test. The findings throughout the research are as follows; First, according to the multidimensional body image of the subjects, the college men were classified into three groups, i.e. the appearance concerning and satisfied group, the weight concerning group, and the appearance indifferent group. The appearance management behaviors of the college men consist of innovative appearance management, weight reduction, appearance management through apparel and fashion products, body shape care, skin care, hair care and health care. Second, the weight concerning group showed a higher BMI than those of the other groups. The means of the monthly income and the expenses for the appearance management of the appearance indifferent group were lower than those of the other groups. Third, the college men were generally shown to pursue the motive improving sociality. The appearance concerning and satisfied group and the weight concerning group indicated higher pursuing motives than the appearance indifferent group in the appearance management motives. Finally, there were significant differences in the appearance management behaviors among the three groups. While the weight concerning group showed the more concerning appearance management behaviors, the appearance indifferent group had the least appearance concerning tendency.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.10 no.5
• /
• pp.28-44
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to study the movie costume and color image through the movie "The Aviator". Firstly, looking at the costumes of main characters and their color images expressed in the movie, one extreme of Hughes' image to another was expressed in order to show his extreme inner world by using the light-dark contrast rather than specific colors as the base. The gold color used to express the image of Hepburn represented an image expressing her intellectual elegance. As for her dress silhouette, the taste of intellectual elegance was displayed by a dress whose back was exposed with a grownup-style feminine silhouette or one with drapes and pleats ornaments. To express Gardner's image; that is, her alluring charm and glow, a vivid red color was used. As for her costume, her splendid and fascinating image was expressed by the 40s' rectangular- shouldered tailored suit, exotic peasant blouse and showy accessories. Secondly, the color image expressed in the background in the movie as a special space for Hughes. The red color image of screening room was shown to be as a space for passion and desire and the green color image of men’s room as a space for stability and rest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.10
• /
• pp.124-136
• /
• 2009

This Study is on the Punggongyubodoryake. Punggongyubodoryak was the records and pictures written by Ohgyeongmun(吳景文, Painter) and Gangbonpungeon(岡本豊彦, a Japanese painter, 1773~1745). in 1832. Those records and pictures were about the gifts which Korea's King(宣祖, 1567-1608) sent to Doyotomi Hideyosi(豊臣秀吉, Pungsinsugil) in 1590. Most of the gifts were of the Korean costume, which meant that Korea recognized Doyotomi Hideyosi as the new general of Japan, Tokugawa Shogunate(幕府將軍). The pictures of every Clothing in punggongyubodoryake described forms of every cloth and delineated ornamental patterns and sizes of clothing as closely as actual, they were clothes of the Middle period of Chosun. the author of the study inferred that it would be one of the impotent materials in the history of the Korean traditional costume. Among the clothes, there were several danryeongs(단령, ceremonial coat), okgwan (玉冠 woman headdress with) and paeok(佩玉, pendents with jade stings) and choongdan(中單 ceremonial undercoat) and Sang(裳, ceremonial Skirts for man), gyeontongsuseulran (肩通袖膝襕, chinese coat) was recorded in punggongyubodoryake. they were not a set of clothes for ceremonial costume but a mixture of men's and women's costume, of korean and abroad styles. the author inferred that this phenomenon was actually a good proof that the gifts were sent to Hideyosi only as courtesy, which meant for downgrading the receiver.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.3 s.68
• /
• pp.461-471
• /
• 2007

Many Korean apparel firms have been adopting the global sourcing to enhance their competitive advantages. The purposes of this study were to identify the current status of global sourcing adopted by Korean apparel firms and to provide useful information for the other apparel firms planning the global sourcing. The questionnaire survey was conducted to 65 Korean apparel firms. The firms selected for this study were women's, men's, unisex casual wear manufacturers which made their products at offshore factories. The results show that about half of them started global sourcing before 2000. Unisex casual wear firms were already doing the global sourcing very actively and women's wear firms were followers. The major benefit of the global sourcing was the cost reduction. The firms that had made inroads into the global market find much satisfaction in global sourcing. These early adopters expected their sourcing countries as a future consumer market. The threatening elements of the global sourcing were the difficulties of quality control and labor cost rising. Cost and technical ability were considered importantly in selecting the global sourcing partners. The firms started the global sorucing before 2000 were greatly depended on offshore production. They concerned for the problems related to the global sourcing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.58-74
• /
• 2013

This research is a case study for the planning process and production process of design project done through industry-university collaboration research. Proposed for the design process and result for the development of the corporation's promotional fashion items. In addition, during the 3-month study period, went through the research process of a number of design, planning, meetings, discussions, and colorway, sample production and selection. The study was carried out using mainly necktie and scarf, the ones one can make use of the best among men's and women's fashion items as fashion items for promotion. The design work was done using Adobe Photoshop CS5, Adobe Illustrator CS5, Texpro 11 version programs. This study is a design development case study where design research experts and the persons in charge from the company took part in for the PR the company demands, and wish it to be used as a basis material for improving company image as a fashion product for the PR of a company.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.55 no.5 s.95
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 2005

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Kokuryo has been the exchange foreign relationship with the Han dynasty era, from king DaiMuSin 25 years to Bojang 27 years. 2 King of Kokuryo, from The North-Wei-dynasty has been received ceremonial costumes, first-third class of China's official rank. After unification of China, Su, Dang dynasty's envoy and missionary and many commercial men and artist come from China to Kokuryo, therefore, influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peoples costumes, without concern of that one's social position. 3. Kokuryo King's ceremonial costumes are not the same as the China. Kokuryo performed a religious service an emperor's ceremony. And the Kokuryo King's religious mind was the Budism and Daoism. So that mural painting just showing the symbolic of the king's costumes , Myunryukwanbok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.26 no.12
• /
• pp.1765-1777
• /
• 2002

본 연구에서는 현재 국내의 서울시내에 거주하는 모터사이클을 타는 만20세 이상의 남성을 대상으로 모터사이클복에 대한 착용실태와 불만사항들을 조사하고 이를 연령별, 모터사이클 유형별로 비교 분석하여 착용감 및 안전성이 향상된 모터사이클복 개발을 위한 기초자료를 제시 하고자 하였다. 설문조사는 2002년 1월~3월까지 3개월간 총 400부를 배부한 후 회수하고, 이 중 262부를 분석자료로 사용하여 빈도 및 백분율, 평균 등의 기술 통계치를 얻어 전반적인 착용현황을 알아보고, 교차분석을 실시한 후 X$^2$-검증을 실시하여 연령별, 모터사이클 유형별, 운행경력 별로 통계적인 차이를 비교 분석하였다. 1. 모터사이클복의 착용실태 및 불만사항 전반에 관한 조사결과, 조사대상자는 20대~40대의 운행경력은 5년 이상인 전문 라이더들이 많았으며 모터사이클의 배기량은 400cc이상이 가장 높게 나타났고, 모터사이클 유형은 로드 바이크가 가장 높게 나타났고, 이용목적은 레져.취미용, 선호하는 모터사이클복 아이템별 소재는 원피스와 슬랙스의 경우에는 피혁소재가 쟈켓의 경우에는 텍스타일 소재가 높게 나타났다. 아이템별 소유는 쟈켓과 투피스가 높게 나타났고, 보호구가 필요하다고 생각되는 신체부위는 상의에서는 가슴과 팔꿈치, 하의에서는 무릎으로 나타났으며, 무릎보호대의 소유도가 가장 높게 나타났다. 모터사이클복 주된 착용목적은 '부상방지', 모터사이클복을 착용하지 않는 이유는 '움직이기가 불편해서' '가격이 비싸서' '여름철에 더워서'가 각각 높게 나타났다. 모터사이클복에 대한 불만족도에서 동작적합성과 사이즈에 대한 불만도가 높게 나타났고, 모터사이클복소재 및 내부 장착 보호장구의 경량화가 요구되었으며, 모터사이클 쟈켓의 치수부적합부위는 소매길이가 가장높게 나타났다. 2. 전체 응답자의 연령을 20대, 30대, 40대 이상으로 나누어 연령별 차이를 비교한 결과 각각의 문항에 대해서 모두 연령대별로 유의차가 인정되었다. 3. 모터사이클복 아이템별 선호소재 문항에서 원피스와 쟈켓에서 모터사이클 기종별 유의차가 나타났는데, 비즈니스 기종에 서는 텍스타일 소재를, 아메리칸크루져 기종에서는 피혁소재를 선호하였다. 로드바이크와 오프로드 기종에서는 원피스는 피혁소재를 선호하였고, 쟈켓은 텍스타일 소재를 선호하는 것으로 나타났다.