• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.229-240
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• 2001

The purpose of the present study was to analyze the acceptance level of forecasted information of casual wear in tate 1990s in Korea and the way of utilizing fashion trends information by casual wear industries. The Present study was implemented by content analysis and descriptive survey using questionnaire and interview. Trends information in fashion journals published by fashion institute and articles in daily newspapers were analyzed in terms of fashion image, color, fabric, and silhouette. The data collected from questionnaire and interview with 113 fashion specialists were analyzed through frequency, percentage. The results indicated that among the forecasted information regarding fashion image, romantic and feminine images showed a high level of acceptance to national brand women's casual wear in the late 1990s, while mannish image showed a low level of acceptance. For men's casual wear in the same time period, androgynous trends appeared most frequently, not only in forecasted information, but also in actual trend. it was forecasted that yellow, white, and gray would be in trend and those colors appeared frequently in actual trend. On the other hand pastel tone appeared much more frequently than forecasted. Natural, thin - transparent (S/S) and stretch fabrics (F/W) were in actual trend as it was forecasted. Fit and Pare (woman), and long and slim (man) silhouettes were in actual trend as if was forecasted, but barrel silhouette appeared only in forecasted information. Most of the information forecasting fashion trends for next season were applied to the product planning of the season, right after the information comes out.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.145-160
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• 2022

This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama 'Crimson Peak'. This research method captures images of women's costumes, architecture, and crafts in the 'Crimson Peak' and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith's costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille's costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of 'Crimson Peak' are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal·plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women's clothing that elements of men's costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.19-29
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• 2003

The 3D measurement data expected be useful to give appropriate garment fit and development of MTM(Made-to-Measure) CAD software. The researcher surveyed the need and use of national anthropometric data of the apparel industry. 17 Korean apparel manufacturers participated in the study. The need of anthropometric data at 5 different apparel business sectors was measured: men's suit, women's dress, casual-wear, underwear, and active sportswear. The result of the survey shows that height and bust, waist, hip circumferences are needed by all of the business sectors. The body measurements at the scye and upper arm area were need most by the men's suit manufacturers. The women's foundation garment manufacturers were well prepared for the use of the 3D body scan data and they expected the potential benefits of 3D body scan data would be great. The researcher also conducted a case study and found a pro and con of the using 3D body scan data for apparel product developing process. In the current stage of technical advance, a reasonable method was required to get nude like scan data for the women's foundation garment manufacturer. The researcher concluded that the apparel designer could use the 3D scan data for developing tremendous style garment design and pattern making.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.116-125
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• 2004

In the history of western costume, women's hairstyle and headdress have been fluently studied but men's headgear has not. To study and manufacture headgear designs and details, which indicate varieties in forms and ornaments, can be utilized for the fashion currently in vogue. Purpose: the purpose of the study is to investigate one of the headgear, the hat in terms of shift in design and manufacturing method, and to study through manufacturing in order to do a literature review by era and to provide information as the source in new design. Study method and scope: Like previously manufactured and presented bonnet of women's headdress or headgear, the hat in the study was manufactured on the basis of literature review and portrait analysis. Target era is from the late 16th century to the early 17th century when the hat was used. The hat to be manufactured was selected by investigating the details such as hair style and hat features using literature. The pattern of the selected hat was analyzed, and velvet, silk, and wool were used as the materials as in the literature. Ornaments used similar things as in the photos.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.71-79
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• 1999

The purposes of this study were to 1) identify types and usage levels of production 2) classify apparel manufacturers based on production systems and 3) investigate relationship between characteristics of apparel manufacturers and production system. Apparel manufacturer's characteristics included product line and the number of employees. For this study, the questionnaires were administered to 215 apparel manufacturers in metropolitan area from Feb. to Mar. 1998. Employing a sample of 201, data were analyzed by using factor analysis, descriptive statistics, cluster analysis, discriminant analysis, and multivariate analysis of variance(MANOVA). The following are the results or this study : 1. The production system was identified as three types of production system such as the management centered system, the product centered system and the worker centered system. 2. Based on the three types of the production system, apparel manufacturer were classified into manager centered and product centered groups. 3. With respect to product line, men's wear manufactures were operated the most frequently by manager centered and product centered groups. 3. With respect to product line, men's wear manufacturers were operated the most frequently by management centered system and women's wear manufacturers were operated the most frequently by worker centered system. With respect to the number of employees, apparel manufacturers comprising 5∼19 employees were performed the least frequently worker centered system, while those comprising 50∼99 and 100∼299 employees the least frequently worker centered system.

• 대한안전경영과학회지
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.113-119
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• 2007

Recently, due to economic growth, living environment has been convenient and comfortable and so human activities were decreased. Consequently energy consumption was also decreased. Also the habit of food intake has been changed and the tendency of obesity has been increased. The main objective of this paper is to provide analysis of obesity index of residents in six metropolitan cities. According to analysis of $R\"{o}hrer$ Index, there were significant differences regionally between men and women in metropolitan cities. Through analysis of Drop Value, it was found that there were significant differences regionally between men and women in metropolitan cities on circumferences of chest, waist and buttocks. The result of this research can be utilized in manufacturing and design of uniforms and equipments for safety.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.85-106
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• 2011

This study analyzes excavated Danryeong of the same period to understand differences between female and male Danryeong, and to identify characteristics of female Danryeong, including their purpose, then-name and women's wearing of them. The subject female Danryeong were estimated to be worn in the late 15th century and the early 17th century, and newly-discovered female Danryeong, along with those examined in the Song Mi-kyeong's study, were studied. This study found that female Danryeong have distinctive characteristics from male's in many aspects such as ease of a garment, sleeve design, Hansam (a layered sleeve to cover hands), shape of Moos (side pleats), Goreum (a coat string), Dae (a belt). From this finding, the purpose of female Danryeong can be assumed: a ceremonial robe, which is different from that of mem's official robe. Female Danryeong began to disappear as Wonsam, a ceremonial topcoat, emerged. From the transitional Danryeong and excavated Wonsam, female Danryeong were estimated to be used as ceremonial robes in the mid Joseon period when Wonsam had yet to be created; and they were estimated to be called "Dansam" or "Wonsam."

• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.106-122
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• 2014

This study is based on the official Chinese history of the ancient Korean(中國正史朝鮮傳) clothing and ornaments, and also tries to discover, study, and adjust the system of the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. Ancient Korea has very poor official records of its clothing and ornaments. Therefore, this study had no choice but to rely on the official Chinese history to cover for the lack of resources. The official Chinese history documents are not only important for studying ancient Korean history, but also important for studying about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. This research selected historical documents about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments from fifteen different Chinese dynasties' official documents, and then systematically classified the documents in order to compare them. All these processes confirmed the following subjects. In regards to the Kwan(冠: general hat), the hat types included Check, Byun(弁), Jeol-poong(折風), Jowoo-Kwan(鳥羽冠), So-gol(蘇骨), and Na-kwan(羅冠). These Kwan(冠) were influenced from Chinese clothing and ornaments. Gold and silver decorations on the Kwan(冠) were influenced from the Scythai culture. The feather decorations on the hat were residual of the bird worshiping culture or the hunting lifestyle. These things show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the North. But the use of Jo-woo(bird feather) was common around the globe in many ways during the ancient times, regardless of area and period. The official Chinese history describes men's hair style as Choo-gyul (椎結) or sometimes pronounced, Choo-gyul(椎結). These seem to describe the topknot. Women had various types of hair styles such as Yu-byun-bal-su-hu (wear women's hair in a braid). The official Chinese history show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the north. The ancient Korean clothing and ornaments influenced and were influenced by its neighboring countries.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.143-155
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• 2006

This study aims to examine the difference of body image and psychological well-being of men and women according to appearance management. The subjects of the study were 673 college students who lived in Seoul and metropolitan areas. Statistical analyses used in the study were factor analysis, Cronbach's a, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test and $\chi^2-test$. The results of this study were as follows; 1. The body image was categorized into the three factors of personal interest innce, anxiety about weight and physical attraction. Appearance management was categorized into the appearance management through clothing, strict diet therapy and daily appearance management. The psychological well-being was classified as seven factors which include the life goal, self-acceptance, positive personal relations, self-regulation, personal development, environment control and responsibility. 2. The appearance management was classified by 4 groups as below: Daily appearance management group, strict diet therapy group, appearance management through clothing group and no interest in appearance group. 3. There were significant differences among the four groups regarding body image, psychological well-being and life satisfaction. First, appearance management through clothing group had more interest in appearance than other groups. In the case of weight awareness, strict diet therapy group and the appearance management through clothing group intended to have more concerns over their weight. The strict diet therapy group seemed to have an overall lower level of psychological well-being than other groups. Lastly, the appearance management through clothing group had a higher level of life satisfaction.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.97-112
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• 2013

In this study, physical, social and psychological repression embodied by the body and clothing are referred to instinctual, power and creative desires, respectively, from the point of biological, social and aesthetic views. Desire refers to a behavior to overcome men's imperfections with individual security, sense of belonging and the pursuit of an ideal, which are obtained by living as a social creature. Repression through the body is sub-categorized depending on whether it is temporary or permanent. Repression expressed through clothing is seen through revealing/concealing, contraction/expansion, and deconstruction/ reconstruction. What enables human beings to embrace changes in fashion without fierce resistance or backlash is the changes of formativeness demonstrated by repression through the body and clothing. The aesthetic values drawn from the exhibition of repression and on the body and clothing are categorized into narcissism, fetishism and aestheticism. While narcissism is an instinctive desire grounded on the originality and confidence of the self that results in refusing repression, fetishism is a desire for power that expedites repression in the pursuit of materialistic value or sexual fantasy. Aestheticism is a desire for creativity that symbolizes the body-and-clothing repression in the pursuit of aesthetic idealism. Repression evokes desire, and the pursuit of desire leads to another repression. The aesthetic values of desire for instinct, power and creativity can be substituted with each other for interpretation according to the attitudes of an initiator, a user and a spectator.