• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.251-264
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to introduce and research the traditional Korean costume collections of Dr. McCune who was born in Pyung-Yang in 1907 and resided until her marriage to George S. McCune in about 1930. Her collections consist of three categories : children's costumes, adults' costumes, access-ories. The characteristics of collections are summorized as follows : 1. Deep wrappings are found at the front part of the top clothing when worn. The front gusset (SUB) has been dramaticaly tilted due to the difference in lengths of the top and bottom parts of the front gusset. 2. Assymetry was one of the principles of decorating Korean costumes. The assymetry were repeated at the GIT and SUB of CHOGORE with patchwork patterns. 3. Primary colors were favored in Korean costume. Hue contrast in color combinations was prefered as well, such as : yellow CHOGORE and purple blue CUFFS, a red SUN pattern matched with green embroidery. 4. Surface patterns were not so popular in Korean costumes, while the most colorful and fabulous patterns were shown through the various embroidery artifacts. Patterns were used as a way of expressing of their desires or longings in Korean costumes. The main themes of the patterns were longevity and happiness. The patterns such as peony, lotus, chrysanthemum, bamboo and bat were implying symbolism at that time. 5. Natural materials were prefered for the garments, Silk and cotton were used as the main materials of the costume collections. Studies of Korean Costume collections owned by international collectors are meaningful to boost the arena of Korean Costumes as well as fill up the vacancy left by lost costume artifacts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.10-20
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• 2003

The object of this research is to develop the designs with aesthetics and function for making the uniforms of specialty restaurants of Korean dishes in pursuit of the image of excellent dignity and its result is as follows: As for designs, this research chose the traditional image as the basic concept and made visual Korean lines, colors, and patterns. As for lines, it made visual the curve of the eaves, the straight line of polls, and the fret of windows and doors represented in architecture and applied them, as for color tones, it chose traditional 'Obangsaek', five direction colors. As for the patterns, it symbolized 4 trigrams( Geon, Gon, Gam, and Yi), the cloud pattern, also it tried to get the formative beauty from traditional patchwork wrapping cloth and windows and doors. The expectant effects on the design of Uniform are as follows: First, it offered basic clothes for male and female employees working in the hall and suggested two kinds of skirt and pants for the latter. It tried to find out both the function of pants and the female beauty of skirts by wrapping on pants to eliminate the feeling of rejection towards the style of them, the use of which have been recognized for man only in spite of many merits of them. Second, it sought for the characteristics of shape on collar, breast-tie, and fold etc. of Korean clothes and designed clothes according to each employee's role and finally emphasized their traditional aesthetics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.777-785
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• 2017

The MICE industry is a new industry that combines corporate meetings, intensive tours, conventions and exhibitions. The convention (the international conference itself) is a conception born from the interpretation of multiple industries such as conferences, incentive tourism, exhibitions and fairs. It is therefore necessary to develop products that can contribute to the revitalization of the MICE industry. We will participate in globalization era trends by developing original design with unique color sense as well as traditional beauty and elegance that can represent the Korean Wave in order to develop high value-added fashion cultural products. We examine the formative characteristics of Chogakbo and apply them to the harmony of geometrical characteristics and colors. The morphological characteristics and sewing method of the Korean traditional 'fo' were also used for shirt designs. It is a fashion cultural product that applies to the Korean Cheokagbo design as well as maintains a basic aloha shirt design that can be worn by everyone (regardless of gender and age) to make it globally acceptable. We used a simple and interesting geometric configuration of the surface represented by the surface composition of the patchwork as well as proposed a design costume by 3D clothing simulation work. The research results can be used as basic data for the domestic fashion market and cultural goods market.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.163-180
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to investigate the main characteristics of the environment-friendly design expressed in Koran fashion. Environment-friendly design can be categorized into choice of material, extension of products life cycle, and recycling design. In this study, Korean fashion designers can be found having the conciousness of environment for fashion design since 1990. First, in choice of material, the designers used Natural fibers which are cotton, linen, wool, and etc, and used natural dyes. Some of the designers have moved from using real fur to using fake fur for animal welfare. But fake furs produced from synthetic or regenerated fibers have the environmental problems during textile production processes. Some of the designers used fake leather made from the skins of an edible fish which are otherwise going to waste. Secondly, Design for extension of products life cycle can economize the resources and energy. Design for extension of products life cycle are classified into reversible clothing, many function clothing, modular style, patina clothing, simple style, and layered look. Finally, recycling design are classified into recycling of daily necessaries and expression techniques of recycling design which are designer's works used patchwork, mash techniques, and handmade of knits or buttonhole stitch.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.99-111
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• 1998

Cubism has played a great role to change traditional concept of art and visual of people as developed into one of new art stlyes. It has avoided three dimensional perspectives and reformed the concept of time and space. It expresses objects with geometric shape by simplifying and reconstructing the objects after taking them apart. This has the effect of simultaneous vision and transparency and brings in collage by combining geometric image and visual elements. The results of the study as follows: First, the geometric shape expresses straight lines, curves, faces, and cubics by simplifying the objects. In fashion, it expresses circles, triangles, squares with a cloth. This shows visual changes as three dimensional space moves. Second, simultaneity disassembles and recontructs the objects. It tries to understand the internal shape with method of disassembling and makes visions coexist. In so doing, cubists adopt simultaneity for expressing shapes. In fashion, it expresses new items through disassembling or combining with other items. Third, transparency simplifies cubics by duplicating with transparent flats and crosses contour lines for reconstructing the simplified objects. This implies broader spatial order. It allows people to perceive penetration of layed clothes. Fourth, collage expresses geometric shape by adding visual elements(concrete image and color). It uses concrete image with paper, letters, cloth, etcs, which is not related to painting, and introduces various colors. In fashion, it uses dolls, postcards, feathers, metals, plastics, for patchwork.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.407-421
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• 2015

This study examined the pixel's expression trend and nature featured in contemporary fashion, which works as a basic unit symbolizing the digital image, paying attention to its formativeness. The work through this process aimed at suggesting an opportunity for recognition about pixel image utilized as a formative component beyond its simple meaning of unit and providing the fundamental materials for usage in creative fashion design reflecting the digital emotion in the future, In research method, literature review was followed on pixel and the empirical study about its image was also performed that was found in the modern fashion. As a result, the trend in pixel has these characteristics. Its first nature lies in its plane expression. It was printed as mosaic or graphic grid image or expressed through patchwork technique. Also, rather than a certain form or figure, its unique image was emphasized according to the applied color, size, and position. Second, a stepwise pattern in pixel was applied to external format for part of clothing, eye glass and necktie, indicating some interest and wit. Third, in application to plane and external shape, the graphically modernized effect was realized, not to mention the illusive image with cubic expression. As shown, the characteristics in contemporary fashion via pixel expression were given in fantastic image, optical humor, and reflection of digital value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.1-15
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• 2009

This study aimed to create a new costume design suitable for publicizing our traditional patterns in the world by using the traditional patterns of Northeast Asia region. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, China is characterized by a strictly fixed configuration and a realistic description, Japan a simplistic modality and an abstract-geometrical pattern, and Korea a eclectic type, whole-pattern, and part-pattern. This study aimed to make the pattern by using harmoniously these characters. Second, Korea, China, and japan have many similarities concerning a symbolism and a type of pattern. In the modern fashion, they often use dragon patterns, various flower patterns like peony, plum blossom, or mum, and geometrical patterns. This study focused on expressing patterns which contain the ornamental symbolism of Oriental Look, aside from an existing symbolism, and show a traditional sentiment of Northeast Asia. The method for expressing traditional patterns usually included weaving, dyeing, embroidery, or gold foil. Although these methods have been used in all the three nations, even rubbed metal foil and patchwork have been widely used in Japan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1261-1274
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• 1997

Contemporary costume by the 'Deconstruction' from the outside has shown disclosure, destruction, poverty and analysis. The conclusion of this thesis as follows, 1. The Deconstruction of disclosure by infra disclosed the underwear and inner structure outside, which has deconstructed a fixed idea i.e.'underwear must be in outwear', modesty versus immodesty and disclosure versus concealment. 2. The Deconstruction of destruction originated in punk look has rejected traditional manners and utility, at the same time, it has shown the ambivalence i.e. completeness versus incompleteness, making versus destructing by slashes, rips, fringes. 3. The Deconstruction of poverty has appeared as French avangarde mode, little black dress by Chanel, second hand style by hippy, blue jean, granny look, especially Rei Kawakubo's poor look influenced by Zen Aesthetics and post punk. It has looked like old and worn out dress by doing patchwork, dye, decolor, rip, fray, which has shown the decentring by concealing the body than disclosing, rejecting snobbery. 4. The Deconstruction of analysis, seemingly partial and patched is a violation only of our expectation of clothing's unbroken entity though it has looked like a fragment. The completeness and coherence of it is made more evident by its breach, void, and bond like a poetic language. As the result, disclosed, destructed, poor, and analytical costumes has expressed as an escape from the appearance which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.39-49
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• 2012

This study looked into the trend of expression of animal motifs that appears in modern fashion, and the values embedded in them. As to the research method, empirical analysis was performed on the works presented at the four global collections of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2001S/S to 2010F/W, as well as a literature review. As a result, animal motifs applied in modern fashion appeared in material groups, such as leather or feather. The first group shows a realistic material feel, with artificial leather or fur, expressed in a transformed complex animal motif, with process skill or various methods of expression. The second group is the case of a single motif or reality, mode, and ion pattern. Printing is a generic expression, but patchwork, collage or bead ornament are also used, and expressed in the various forms of pattern: pattern in a single animal, pattern in different animals, and pattern combining both animal and other shape. The third group is a small decorative ornament, including headset or accessory and makeup, which is transformed in an animal-characterized motif into part of clothing components for expression, or to set the real animal to the stage for a performance. The embedded values were also categorized as natural beauty, sensual female beauty, pleasure, and ornamentation, which could be an endless spiritual source, and a breakthrough that enables us to show a creative and new aesthetic for the modern fashion field.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.75-95
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• 2023

This study aims to investigate the color characteristics and utilization of Amekaji fashion in the domestic casual market, with a focus on menswear. A total of 1,882 color data were extracted from 11 representative brands of Amekaji. This results of the study showed that PB, Bk, YR, and Y colors were highly utilized in the overall color, and dkg, g, ltg, and p tones were highly utilized. In particular, R color was highly utilized in the point color, as it was developed into six tones, including v, with high saturation. The analysis by the brand showed that the highest number of colors were extracted from 'Kapital', which is famous for its vintage-style patchwork and dyeing, and that 'PB' and 'Bk' were heavily utilized. By the item, PB colors were mainly utilized for denim, and shirts were diversified with 9 tones. W, a neutral color, was mainly used on clothing tops such as shirts, knits, and T-shirts. This study provides valuable insights into the color sensitivity of Amekaji fashion, which can be used as a useful resource for design development and product planning in the industry. As a future study, we suggest analysis of the utilization of Amekaji colors in the Korean men's casual market along with American and Japanese brands.