• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.16-26
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• 2006

There have been in the history of western costume a few studies on men's headgear that cannot be the second to the women's headdress in terms of the gorgeousness and variety whereas the studies on women's hair styles and head dresses have frequently been carried out. Such varieties of the headgear in terms of forms and ornaments have still been found with various types. Thus, the study on the change in designs and details of headgear and the recreation of them may contribute to the utilization of the fashion in current vogue and the guidance of the creation for the new design. The aim of this study is to find such changes in the designs and the methods for the production of bonnets which have played important roles to emphasize external characteristics of costumes. As a result, this study may provide key materials for the development of new designs. As with the previous studies on the women's headdress and men's hat, the methodology of this study is to recreate bonnets based on the literature review and the portrait analysis. this study will cover the eras from the late fifteenth century to the mid sixteenth century when bonnets began to be produced. First, the characteristics of hair styles and bonnets are to be reviewed for the selection of bonnets to be recreated. Next step is to make a literature review on the form, materials, colors and ornaments used for bonnets. Finally, the patterns of bonnets is to be illustrated for the reproduction of selected bonnets. Materials to be used in this study for such a reproduction are velvets, silks and wools as presented in the literatures and ornaments to be used are similar to those captured in photos.

• 복식
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• 제66권1호
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• pp.108-121
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• 2016

The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.536-547
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• 1995

The modernization of the fashion design in our country, like our chaotic modern history, has not been easy for us to grasp its main stream because it lacked historical consciousness and sincere attitude of creating. In trying to find out designs very Korean, designers usually ignore the deeply rooted ideologies and modes of our own, and primarily depend on the scattered fragments of tradition, such as the curled line of the ancient roofs, folk jackets and skirts, and Talcum, our ethnic dance, sometimes making some patchwork like clothes they divan't really intend to make. In the world of modern design, especially of the fashion industrial design, designs more scientific, more rationale and more positively appealing to the consumers, not the unconscious and emotional ones, are being demanded. To win in the fierce competing world of design as well call this age an age of "Design War", it is desirable for us to create our peculiar designs by uniting the internationalism (universality) and nationalism (traditionalism) together under a single rigid purpose. Analyzing the designs mainly of Korean style fashion designers since the 1980s, 1 could see that Korean designs in the aspect of appearance have a strong tendency toward applying or reviving the traditional elements, thus are under a bias toward nationalism rather than in ternationalism. The idea of "very Korean" does not mean a mere harmony or negotiation of the traditional elements with modern ones. It is rather a concept from vivid historical experiences of the conflict between the purely Korean mental, cultural heritages and the demands in mod- eradiation. Therefore, based on this concept of "very Korean" we must create fashions completely Korean and modern at the same time.n and modern at the same time.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1001-1007
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• 2014

We surveyed the wearing characteristics of hip protectors. The problems of existing hip protectors were identified and the directions for improvement were presented. The evaluation of wearing characteristics was conducted on the 100 elderly women (60 to 85 years) with 5 types of hip protector. The questionnaire was composed of history and characteristics on falling, hip protector acceptance, preference, use characteristics and improvement requirements. The result of wearing characteristic evaluation indicated that 52% of the subject experienced falling in winter. Incidents resulting from falling occurred: outdoors (74.5%), bathroom (10.9%), and kitchen (5.5%). Body parts to be protected were in several areas: 35.6% for lumbar, 26.9% for hip joint, and 15% for hip bone. Participants prefer a belt B type design at a rate of 56.9% because it provided a sense of stability by clinging to the body and upholding the waist. Belt B type was the most appropriate in terms of fit, allowance, mobility, and design except pad thickness. To reduce the risk of hip fracture, hip protector needs to be designed in consideration of user's type of fall and body shape. The pattern and size of a hip protector has to be improved in regards to the amount of discomfort. An objective evaluation is needed for the ergonomic design of a hip protector based on and analysis of 3D body image of the elderly and the shock-absorbing quality of pad.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.463-479
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• 2020

The purpose of this study identify the types and characteristics of Hanbok worn in lunar new year parade and Korean parade in New York over the past three years. As for the research method, I first collected domestic news articles, overseas Korean news articles, and literature reviews about the history of the Korean parade in New York and the events of each year. Second, I conducted a case study on Hanbok worn in the six parades from 2017 to 2019 using photo data collected through direct surveys, 'YouTube' video footage and news article photos. Third, I interviewed people related to the New York parade about the route of buying and renting the Hanbok in the New York area. The types of Hanbok shown in the Korean parade in New York can be largely classified as ceremonial, performance, and daily costume. There were 65 ceremonial costumes in all, with men wearing Dallyeong (official's robe) and Gorlyongpo (dragon robe) and women wearing Dangui (woman's semi-formal jacket), Wonsam (woman's ceremonial robe), and Hwarot (princess's ceremonial robe). A number of performance costumes were also worn by the Chwitasu bands, Nongak ensembles and fan dancers. Finally, of the 210 daily Hanbok, most men wore Baji (pants) and Jeogori (jacket), and women wore Chima (skirts) and Jeogori. The parade attempts to showcase the beauty of Hanbok, but the costumes repeat year after year, which can feel monotonous to onlookers. This research can be used as a reference to effectively utilize Hanbok in future Korean cultural events.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2018

This study focuses on the correlation between Kotgal and paper-folding. This paper first examines the meaning and history of Korean ancient Kotgal and then investigates relationship between Kotgal and Korean paper-folding culture which has been inherited in various ways. Throughout the study, literature research and analysis have been conducted along with empirical studies. The results of the study are as follows. First, it has been told that Kotgal was used a as a trident hat symbolizing the sky, land, and man, whereas Korean paper-folding is known as closely related to the folk beliefs which had existed since ancient times. From ancient times, the Korean ancestors expressed the Three Gods representing beauties of the nature, 'sky(Chun), land(Ji) and man(In)' on the conical hat and prayed for their wish to the heaven. Second, Kotgal has been evolved in various ways from ancient times through Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty to present. The form of Kotgal has begun with folding and this is closely related to the origin of Korean paper-folding, which is the Korean traditional craft. Third, the paper-folding tradition of Korea has been variously applied in the Korean culture such as rituals, life crafts and plays and expresses the unconventional philosophical concepts unique of Korea. In conclusion, this study evidently shows that the Korean philosophical ideas behind Kotgal which originated from ancient paper-folding are scientific and systematic.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권6호
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• pp.592-600
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• 2012

Social reactions to body exposure in American leisure wear (bathing suits, shorts, and halters) in the 1930s were analyzed to provide an understanding of the process of adopting more abbreviated and less-occasion specific styles of garments in women's fashion. The research questions were as follow: How did women expose their bodies in leisure wear during the 1930s? How did the social reaction to women's body exposure in leisure wear change throughout the 1930s? How did the body exposure in women's leisure wear play a significant role in the history of women's fashion? Primary sources were collected from issues of The New York Times published in the 1930s. Topics including dress, fashion, ethics, social ethics, and sexual ethics, were reviewed in The New York Times indices. The findings were analyzed and interpreted with reference to secondary sources that included books and research papers. The results showed that the body exposure of the styles as well as the place where these styles were worn was a public issue. Women were criticized and regulated for body exposure as well as for wearing bathing suits, shorts, and halters on the streets. However, the social regulations that restricted bathing suit styles almost disappeared by the end of the decade. This represented the change of social expectations toward body exposure in the 1930s. In addition, reports of laws that forbade the wearing of bathing suits, halters, and shorts outside of beaches, pools, and parks indicated women's increased attempts to expose their bodies in public places. However, reactions to women's body exposure in leisure wear changed to accept more flexibility in the social customs throughout the decade. These phenomena were a partial step toward the popularization of less occasion-specific styles - sportswear - that took place in the 20th century.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.455-476
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to develop Jiangxi Nuo masks using 3D digital fashion design technology and suggest various ways to utilize traditional culture based on the characteristics of Nuo masks, a traditional Chinese artifact of intangible cultural significance. The researchers conducted a literature review to gather information about Nuo culture and masks that could represent Jiangxi. Features of the masks were analyzed and classified. The result are as follows. First, the symbolic characteristics of Jiangxi's Nuo masks can be divided into those based on their origin and history, the user's social status, and the notions of primitive beliefs of the chosen people, such as naturism and totemism. Second, Nuo masks' splendid decorations convey meanings such as luck, the bixie, longevity, wealth, and peace in the family. Third, playfulness in mask-making is about dismantling the original form of the mask, re-creating it through application. Fourth, the masks express primitiveness mostly by conserving the wood's original color or material. The initial masks carved to represent images of figures aptly deliver the primitive forms and images of Nuo culture. In this study, Nuo masks were developed and produced using the 3D digital technology CLO 3D by adopting the expressive characteristics and applying design methods such as asymmetricity, exaggeration, and modification. The results of this study demonstrate the possibility of creating diverse as well as economical designs through the reduction of production.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1988

This study dealt with the Dopo, one of the representative ceremonial dress that acclasical scholar used after the middle of the period of the Chosun dynasty. This study represents the period of Dopo's formation and its origin, and the characteristics of the weary of Dopo in Young Dong Province Area is arranged by folkloric method on the base of the exisitng facilities. Dopo has worn since the middle of the period of the Chosun dynasty. It is the kind of Jig young Po that its back is cuffed for convenience and has another cloth as a ceremonial dress. It is thought to be one of the national customs pos formed by the mixture of the big sleeve type which is influenced by confusion life feeling. It seemed that the name of DoPo comes from the Jigchal, an ordinary dress of a high official in China, which is call Dopo. This Dopo is changed and received and so disappeared but it is still used such as ceremonial dress, the necessary articles for marriage of the bride, a bridegroom's liturgical vestments of a memorial service held on the anniversary of the death of a person, mourning dress and a shroud grave clothes. This area has different characters on wearing customs. It is changed into the kind of Dopo, with its back not cutting. The hemp sack is almost used as its subject matter. It doesn't have collar strip for the classification of one's family in any case, and Dopo which is prepared for necessary articles for marriage can not be taken tack after seperating by divorce.

• 복식
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• 제61권4호
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• pp.52-62
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• 2011

This study is about the history of costumes depicted on the book Goryosa(高麗史) Ye-Ji(禮志). Researches about the costumes of Goryo dynasty are very rare and are mostly based on Goryodogyung(高麗圖經) and Goryosa Yebok-Ji(與服志). However, records about suitable costumes for a special scene of a rite can also be found in Ye-Ji besides Yebok-Ji. Therefore, this study analyzes Ye-Ji and categorizes the results into character and situation. Characters that can be found are king, officials, crown prince, aristocrat, commoner and envoy. Situations that can be found, according to the original text, are Gilrye(吉禮), Hyoongrye(凶禮), Goonrye(軍禮) and Garye(嘉禮). The results of the study are as follows; $\blacktriangleright$ The king had to change clothes in order to suit the situation according to the precise sequence of rituals. Therefore the king had to wear different clothes in the same rite, optionally, depending on the situation. This also applies to the case of officials. $\blacktriangleright$ The crown prince and aristocrats generally wore the same clothes as officials. $\blacktriangleright$ In the important ritual of Garye(嘉禮), many cases can be found where officials wore Jobok(朝服) and hands-on worker wore Gongbok(公服). $\blacktriangleright$ It is remarkable that on the New Year's day, the winter solstice and Sungsoojul(聖壽節; the emperor's birthday) the envoy of Ming Sangbok(常服); whereas the king and the officials of Goryo wore the Myunbok(冕服) or Jobok(朝服).