"고려사" 예지(禮志)의 복식사적 검토

Historiographical Study of Costume Depicted in the "Ye-Ji(禮志)" Section of the Book "Goryosa(高麗史)"

This study is about the history of costumes depicted on the book Goryosa(高麗史) Ye-Ji(禮志). Researches about the costumes of Goryo dynasty are very rare and are mostly based on Goryodogyung(高麗圖經) and Goryosa Yebok-Ji(與服志). However, records about suitable costumes for a special scene of a rite can also be found in Ye-Ji besides Yebok-Ji. Therefore, this study analyzes Ye-Ji and categorizes the results into character and situation. Characters that can be found are king, officials, crown prince, aristocrat, commoner and envoy. Situations that can be found, according to the original text, are Gilrye(吉禮), Hyoongrye(凶禮), Goonrye(軍禮) and Garye(嘉禮). The results of the study are as follows; $\blacktriangleright$ The king had to change clothes in order to suit the situation according to the precise sequence of rituals. Therefore the king had to wear different clothes in the same rite, optionally, depending on the situation. This also applies to the case of officials. $\blacktriangleright$ The crown prince and aristocrats generally wore the same clothes as officials. $\blacktriangleright$ In the important ritual of Garye(嘉禮), many cases can be found where officials wore Jobok(朝服) and hands-on worker wore Gongbok(公服). $\blacktriangleright$ It is remarkable that on the New Year's day, the winter solstice and Sungsoojul(聖壽節; the emperor's birthday) the envoy of Ming Sangbok(常服); whereas the king and the officials of Goryo wore the Myunbok(冕服) or Jobok(朝服).