The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's pants design from 1962 to 1998 by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. For sample selection, first, 932 pictorials of men';s wear designs from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and SFAA's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998 were selected and then excluded some samples that could not clearly identify the pants design. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The final samples are classified into pattern, color, length, silhouette, and existence or non-existence of turn-up. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. ; (1) Solid pattern was the most prevailed throughout the last four decades and followed by stripe, check, the others, abstract, dot and floral. There is no significant difference in the type of men's pants pattern between each decade. (2) It showed a significant difference in colors of men's pants between decades. The colors in men's wear are divided into nine categories and the order of occurrence are as follows; multi-color is the most frequently shown and followed by brown, gray, blue, black, green, pink, yellow, and red. More various colors appeared over the period, however, multi color was the most popular in all decades but in the 60s. (3) Full length of pants style occupied more than 96% throughout all four decades. Due to the popularity of sports wear in men's fashion during the 90s, the shorts style appeared not only in sports wear and casual wear but also in suit style. (4) There is a significant difference in silhouette of men's pants between decades. The silhouette of men's pants were divided into four types and their order of occurrence are as follows; basic, baggy, fitted, and loose silhouette. Basic silhouette was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades. (5) A significant difference was shown in the existence or non-existence of turn-up of men's pants between decades. Non-existence of turn-up of men's pants was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades.
The effects of inflorescence herbivory and flowering time on plant architecture and reproductive yields were examined with a perennial herbacious species, Vicia cracca, occurring in Natick, Massachusetts, USA. Natural herbivory on inflorescences was observed among the total of 157 plants during a growing season. Vegetative and reproductive characters were measured in the field as well as in the lab depending on the characters. Approximately 64% of the plants were subjected to herbivory on inflorescences. Plants were classified into three groups; unbrowsed plants, partially browsed, and totally browsed plants, according to the level of herbivory on inflorescences of each plant. Plants were also categorized by their flowering time such as early vs late flowering plants. Herbivores tended to favor inflorescences on rather small plants, resulting in a pattern of totally contact or partially intact inflorescences on taller plants. The mean number of stems, which was assumed to be a direct result of severe herbivory in this population, differed among herbivory groups. There also was a tendency that plants flowering late in the season had more nodes with more leaves, suggesting that herbivory on stem tips early in the season before flowering might have induced growth of side branches or branchlets along the main stems. Comparison between unbrowsed and partially browsed plants showed that the latter compensated for browsing in terms of numbers of inflorescences, fruits, seeds and seed size (weight), though they did not compensate in flower number. The probability of fruit production (presence vs absence of fruits) and seed weight declined toward the end of the season. These results suggest that resources are deficient at the end of the season. Almost complete reproductive failure in totally browsed plants is attributed to the destruction of inflorescence display and the disadvantage of small vegetative size of those plants. After all, in this population, a moderate level of herbivory on inflorescences did not reduce the maternal fitness of the plants. However, severe herbivory on inflorescences resulted in antagonistic interactions between plants and herbivores.
Flowering time is determined by florigens. These genes include, Heading date 3a (Hd3a) and Rice FT 1 (RFT1) in rice, which are specifically expressed in the vascular tissues of leaves at the floral transition stage. To study the cis-regulatory elements present in the promoter region of Hd3a, we generated transgenic plants carrying the 1.75-kb promoter fragment of Hd3a that was fused to the ${\beta}$-glucuronidase (GUS) reporter gene. Plants expressing this construct conferred a vascular cell-specific expression pattern for the reporter gene. However, GUS was expressed in leaves at all developmental stages, including the early seedling stage when Hd3a was not detected. Furthermore, the reporter was expressed in roots at all stages. This suggests that the 1.75-kb region lackings cis-elements that regulate leaf-specific expression at the appropriate developmental stages. Deletion analyses of the promoter region indicated that regulatory elements determining vascular cell-specific expression are present in the 200-bp region between -245 bp and -45 bp from the transcription initiation site. By transforming the Hd3a-GUS construct to rice cultivar 'Taichung 65' which is defective in Ehd1, we observed that Ehd1 is the major regulatory element that controls Hd3a promoter activity.
Unlike other body arts, body painting illuminates the value of art using eco-friendly formative activity and natural environment and highlights the need of eco-friendly activity. However, although body painting has focused on forming right relationship between human beings and nature, there are few researches which are linked with nature art. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to argue the need to study body painting as nature art in connection with natural environment and analyze body painting according to nature art types. The study methods included both theoretical review and empirical review. The theoretical review examined the concept and characteristics of nature art through previous researches and literature and the empirical review looked into the types and works of nature art and applied them to body painting works. The results were as follows. First, an installation type was possible by arranging and attaching certain materials to the body. Second, a physical type was possible by representing body itself as the part of nature. Third, a symbolic type was possible by making body appearance as a some symbol based on artist's idea. Fourth, a sound type was possible by stimulating auditory hallucination using the nature of objects and sensing a sound. Fifth, an ecological type was possible by conveying the message of living things in nature to the body. Sixth, an interior type was possible by inducing indoor installation of works. Seventh, a poetic type was possible by making one feel a poetic inspiration expressed in nature using the mystery of the sea and a simple sequential pattern of floral leaves. Eighth, a drawing type was possible by adding artist's intentional hand with a pictorical technique. Ninth, a indigenous type was possible by reproducing South American indian's primitive style. The review of this study suggests that body painting works have been expressed in experimental and temporary arrangement like nature art in nature and can be applied according to nine types of nature art.
The modern town houses in Philippines has been changed through Spanish colonization over 300years and American military administration in 20C. Especially Cebu, the first contemporary capital of colonized Philippines by Spain, has various cultural characteristics and historical remains including old houses. By the economy condition in Cebu growing up, Bahay na bato, stone and wood house, has been settled for the elite or middle class of Cebu around 19C influenced by Spanish or Europe and Philippines native house called bahay kubo. Bahay na bato shows a common features, as revealed in this study, which all of them has a two stories with cut stone curtain wall and wooden beam and lintel, fronting the main street by approaching directly from street. And spatial separating also shown by setting living space to upper level instead of using storage or entrance hall called zaguan in lower level. Bahay na bato studied here shows a particular appearances in elevation, having volada and elaborate geometric or floral window pattern, also playing a role for ventilation with vetanilas below volada and main window in section. They have a rectangular plan with caida, sala, comedo, azotea almost similar to Spanish and ealier colonial Mexico style mixed with Philippines traditional style showing the strong spatial separation functionally and space wideness for party occasionally.
We studied natural and plantation forest ecosystem of Sarguja in Chhattisgarh, India in order to understand how vegetation biomass, carbon stock and its allocation patterns vary among the sites. For this, stratified random sampling was opted to measure the different layers of vegetation. Wide floral diversity was found in the natural forest site as compared to the teak stand. Overall, 17 tree species found in natural forest comprising 8 families while in the teak stand 6 species were recorded. In understory strata 23 species were recorded (18 herbs and 5 shrubs) in natural forest whereas in teak stand 20 herb species and 3 shrubs were found. Great variation was also seen in the population dynamics of the different vegetation stratum in concerned sites. The sapling, seedling and herb density was found to be highest in natural stand while tree and shrub density was more in teak stand. Results indicated that stand biomass of the natural site was $321.19t\;ha^{-1}$ while in the teak stand it was $276.61t\;ha^{-1}$. The total biomass of tree layer in plantation site was $245.22t\;ha^{-1}$ and natural forest $241.44t\;ha^{-1}$. The sapling, seedling, shrub and forest floor biomass was found highest under natural forest as compared to the teak plantation site. Carbon stock has similar trend as that of biomass accumulation in natural forest and teak stand. Higher biomass accumulation and carbon stock were recorded in the higher girth class gradation of the population structure. Proper efforts are required to manage these diverse ecosystems to obtain higher biomass and sustainable ecological services.
The purpose of this study is to identify the perception of New-Hanbok Skirts that female consumers have and to analyze the design preference based on the analysis of designs of skirt products currently in distribution. Based on the analysis of the New-Hanbok brand website, the research was conducted through a survey of 355 women in their 20s and older. The survey consisted of 24 questions which were divided into pattern, color, material, and recognition type questions. The research results are as follows. First, most adult women answered that a New-Hanbok skirt is appropriate to wear at a holiday, anniversary, or outer dress for the spring and autumn seasons, and the design is the most important thing when considering buying. However, the ratios of wearing experience and possession were very low. Second, the preferred design aspects of a New-Hanbok skirt were the Jarak-skirt or Deot-skirt, calf-length, 5cm width of the waistband, 3cm uniform crease, a normal length waistband, bright neutral colors, and a waistband in different colors. For the double skirt, the design that shows 4cm of lining fabric and the different colors of upper fabric was the most preferred. The most preferred material was plain cotton. On the other hand, small floral patterns were preferred for patterned materials, and opaque upper fabric was most preferred for the double skirt. Through this study, it was confirmed that the Hanbok is seen as a positive aspect for modern consumers.
This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.
Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.
Tropical forests play a key role for functioning of the planet and maintenance of life. These forests support more than half of the world's species, serve as regulators of global and regional climate, act as carbon sinks and provide valuable ecosystem services. Forest floor biomass and litterfall dynamics was measured in different sites influenced by fire in a seasonally dry tropical forest of Bhoramdeo wildlife sanctuary of Chhattisgarh, India. The forest floor biomass was collected randomly placed quadrats while the litterfall measured by placing stone-block lined denuded quadrat technique. The seasonal mean total forest floor biomass across the fire regimes varied from $2.00-3.65t\;ha^{-1}$. The total litterfall of the study sites varied from $4.75-7.56t\;ha^{-1}\;yr^{-1}$. Annual turnover of litter varied from 70-74% and the turnover time between 1.35-1.43 years. Monthly pattern of forest floor biomass indicated that partially decayed litter, wood litter and total forest floor were differed significantly. The seasonal variation showed that leaf fall differed significantly in winter season only among the fire regimes while the wood litter was found non significant in all the season. This study shows that significant variation among the site due to the forest fire. Decomposition is one of the ecological processes critical to the functioning of forest ecosystems. The decomposing wood serves as a saving account of nutrients and organic materials in the forest floor. Across the site, high fire zone was facing much of the deleterious effects on forest floor biomass and litter production. Control on such type of wildfire and anthropogenic ignition could allow the natural recovery processes to enhance biological diversity. Chronic disturbances do not provide time for ecosystem recovery; it needs to be reduced for ecosystem health and maintaining of the high floral and faunal biodiversity.
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