• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.106-119
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to examine American students' perceptions of contemporary fashion design that incorporates Korean traditional costume. The findings, which are based on a survey of American students' aesthetic response to the fashion designs, are as follows. First, the impressions of American students about the fashion designs were affected by two major factors, Tradition and Trend. The Tradition factor was related to the impressions traditional, formal, elegant, classic, romantic, gorgeous, and natural, but was correlated negatively to the impressions dynamic, modern, and casual. The Trend factor was related to the impressions chic, trendy, and clear but not dandy. Designs with elongated shape had a positive score for the Tradition factor and designs with curvy line had a positive score for the Trend factor. Second, American students gave visual priority to the aspects of shape such as garment type and silhouette when they evaluated the designs. Color was less important than the aspect of shape in their fashion image perception. Therefore, they categorized the designs by similarity of garment types, and then sub-categorized them by color. The meaning of Korean traditional motifs or details was not significant to American students. Third, American students showed the tendency that the more they evaluated the designs to be gorgeous or trendy, the more they liked the designs. Furthermore, they liked the designs which have a positive score for the Trend factor.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.33-45
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• 2019

This study identified types of online retail internationalization in the fast-fashion context and proposed driving factors of retailers' choices in online-based market entry following the logic of the Uppsala model and the eclectic theory. In particular, this study proposes three types of online-based internationalization: 1) entering a host market with a physical store first, and then expanding with an online store, 2) entering a foreign market with an online store, then expanding to physical stores, and 3) entering only with an online business. In addition, this study investigated the causal factors, ownership-specific and location advantages, that influence the choice of the type of developmental process of online-based internationalization. To develop theoretical and managerial insights into the issue researched, this study employed a qualitative research design involving case studies of three European fast-fashion retailers, H&M, TOPSHOP, and ASOS. This study suggested that fast-fashion retailers that enter a host market with high ownership-specific advantages are likely to choose to enter the market with physical stores and then expand with online stores. On the other hand, when faced with uncertainties attributable to low ownership-specific or location advantages, fast-fashion retailers are likely to choose to enter with an online store first and then expand with physical stores as conditions change. Consequently, this study provides a better understanding for fast-fashion retailers who are willing to expand their businesses to foreign markets via online stores.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.779-798
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to propose the direction of veganism-based fashion design in environmental and animal protection through the theoretical consideration of vegan fashion and the analysis of the practical design characteristics of veganism in Stella McCartney's fashion. The research was conducted through literature research and case studies. After investigating the concept and characteristics of vegan fashion, focusing on previous studies and various fashion-related Internet data, Stella McCartney's fashion was examined with particular attention on vegan characteristics. The results of the study are as follows: First, imitative nature pursues animal and environmental protection, but the motif or appearance is a characteristic of pursuing a multi-purpose design that imitates animals and nature. Second, expression of value is based on slow fashion, simplicity, and sustainable minimal design. It is expressed indirectly by pursuing permanence, simplicity, and long-wearable design, or directly expressing vegan values through phrases expressed in performances or costumes in the collection. Third, alternative eco-friendliness is characterized by using cruelties-free materials such as faux fur, recycling materials, new bio-materials, and regenerated materials. These vegan characteristics are comprehensively and organically expressed in the works of the collection, and through this, sustainable and eco-friendly vegan fashion is pursued. It is anticipated that by deriving the vegan fashion characteristics of Stella McCartney, who represents vegan fashion, it will be possible to provide the basis for practical direction and design methods for fashion brands aiming for vegan fashion styles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.64-82
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• 2022

This study aimed to explore fashion technologies for small-scale designer brands and reveal the priorities of the derived fashion technologies. Interviews were conducted with owners of 15 designer brands to explore fashion technologies needed in the field based on the business operation stage (study 1), and an online survey of owners of 61 designer brands was conducted to verify their priorities (study 2). A total of 12 fashion technologies were derived from study 1, including 2 market analysis stages, 6 season planning stages, and 4 product operation stages. In study 2, importance and satisfaction were measured with 12 fashion techniques derived from study 1, and importance-performance analysis (IPA) was performed. The technologies of product management with image tagging and sales channel matching were considered to be the fashion technologies that should be developed first. Second, in the case of maintenance, demand prediction and price determination were applicable. Third, over-effort avoidance was revealed through market analysis and design generation. Finally, in automatic product detail page creation and digital marketing, development was the lowest priority. The results of this study are expected to provide insight into priority areas for fashion technology developers and policy departments providing emerging brand support.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.91-106
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• 2004

This study focuses on the sportism expressed in the modern fashion. Many factors attribute to the advent of sportism such as rapid development and cultural changes toward sports, increase in leisure time, new fashion materials resulting from new technologies, youth culture and postmodernism. Designers gazing into the future are inspired by the details and functionality of clothing for snow boarding, skiing, rock-climbing and fitness. While the sportswear is the term whith stemmed from the need for functionally in sports, the Sportism is the style inspired by the formative elements, that is, the details, the silhouette, and the colors of the sportswear. New technologies for sports, the powerful influence of youthful culture, and the celebritizations of the sports stars made the sports look more popular. It can be categorized into three aesthetic values, i.e., the functional sportism, the street sportism, and the futuristic sportism. The functional sportism is expressed with the details of function, simplicity, and no useless ornament, the street sportism with fun, androgynous and unisex mode and the image of hip-hop look and traditional look, the futuristic sportism with new high tech fabrics and cyber style. The characters of these are a sence of unisex, sensualness, ostentation, renovation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.519-531
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• 2012

This study comprehends the various expressions of Lady Gaga's fashion style based on Craig Owens's Allegory theory. This study analyzed four application elements of Borrow, Site Specificity, Accumulate of Strategy, and Hybridization in addition, it studied all aspects of the aesthetic value of Lady GaGa (an influential popular culture icon). It was classified in the external representation of the fashion style for the aesthetic value. The results are summarized as follows: First, 'Borrow' of the singers of the 80's music and fashion style present from her elders and visual homage to shock artists. It influenced her fans with a difference in viewpoint for a star's fashion that subsequently resulted in a deformation of form, playful kitsch style, and mixed gender. Second, 'Site specificity' presents an extreme make over through an intentional and grotesques fashion style to extend physical territory and defenseless. The results remove stereotypes and reveal deconstructive performances. Third, 'Accumulate of strategy' simultaneously presents voluptuous beauty, futurism, and avant-garde style. This shows the countercultural tendency through the random repetition of fashion images and layerd coordination. Finally, 'Hybridization' presents multiful fashion style through a collaboration with world-famous designers and cosmetic brands. She expressed a diverse and complex fashion style composed of an art form that combines a high-tech cyborg image. The aesthetic values of Lady Gaga' fashion style are 'ambivalence virtuality', 'Transcendental mixed gender', 'plural textuality', and 'unexpected play culture'.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.15-29
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to examine modern people's lifestyle and identify their needs by analyzing clothing behavior through city nomads' attitudes in dairy life, tastes, and methods to pursue in their life. This study tries to understand substitute values as ethical life emerging recently, free life style of mental emotion, clothing behaviors, and fashion style represented by the results. Upon observing city nomads' fashion trend, tunics symbolizing flexibility and comfort and simultaneously reflect colors in a monk style or from basic items that have been used. City nomads' fashion trend also reveals androgynous freeness-and-easiness. City nomads reflect a folksy inspiration, and different cultural perspectives appear in a mixed fashion. Multi-purpose gypsy/boho style is ideal for traveling and occupying smaller spaces in line with the nomadic lifestyle reflectings an American casual image partially by way of gypsy or bohemian nuances. Motorcycle jeans symbolizing functionality for traveling are becoming a part of everyday life. The fashions discussed are categorized as urban, tourer, sports and road. Everyday sportswear - athleisure - is attracting attention enabling a healthy and sound lifestyle. Athleisure is fashion wear harmonizing workplace with leisure, and everyday life and social gatherings. Athleisure represents a significant collapse of the boundary of high fashion and street fashion. Urban- tech wear is light and enables modern people to perform garment and gear functions simultaneously, making storage useful using various technical devices by elevating activity and functionality. Urban outdoor fashion holding functionality and adding modern fashion in appearance has appeared.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.15-31
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• 2023

This study aimed to propose a fashion design development method using the external and internal characteristics of the flower and bird paintings in traditional Korean folk paintings. As a research method, external and internal characteristics of folk paintings were examined through previous studies and literature research, and folk painting patterns were developed into digital textile designs. Five 3D digital fashion designs were proposed using the CLO 3D program. The external characteristics of folk paintings were as follows: simplification and planarization of object representation, diversification of viewpoints, ignorance of perspective and symmetrical enumeration, strong colors and contrast effects, and the simultaneous representation of time. The internal characteristics of folk paintings were as follows: symbolic meaning, the beauty of free humor, modest aesthetics, complexity of reality and fantasy, and desire of shamanism. The results are as follows. Firstly, the flower and bird painting was a decorative painting style that emphasized decorative beauty and was suitable for developing fashion designs with Korean originality because of the symbolic and internal meanings. Simple layouts and bold free-spirited representations were effective ways to fill the screen with objects and gave the pattern a decorative effect. Secondly, developing a virtual clothing prototype based on digital design method using the external and internal characteristics of folk paintings and producing realistic fashion designs suggest the integrated use of science and technology, embodying modern fashion through the combination of digital fashion content and traditional cultural content. Thirdly, as a result of the development of 3D digital fashion designs, an eco-friendly and sustainable fashion design methods with virtual clothing can suggest a design development method that saves time and cost in the fashion design process while considering the environment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.296-308
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to comprehend the contemporary sports star fashion and to contemplate aesthetic characteristics of sports star fashion, thereby to establish the styles of sports star fashion. For such purposes, this study first examines aesthetic characteristics of sports fashion and star fashion based on previous studies, in order to analyze aesthetic characteristics of sports star fashion, and conducts a case study by analyzing photographic materials of fashion styles of well-known male sports stars such as the English soccer player David Beckham and American golf player Tiger Woods. The result of this study is as follows: the aesthetic characteristics of the contemporary sports star fashion are virility, functionality, sensuality and deconstruction. (1) Virility emphasizes manly features by displaying trained and disciplined body. (2) Functionality is expressed through structural simplicity and temperance of decoration. High-tech textiles and fibers are favored in order to fit in comfortable bodily movement for the heavy exercises. (3) Sensuality, as an expression of indulgence of sexual pleasure, is expressed through bodily exposure. Lastly, (4) deconstruction, which means destroying existed boundaries of cultural categories, is shown as co-existence of design elements from different times and places, stereotypes and sensibilities. Virility and functionality are prominent characteristics expressed in sports uniforms and training costumes. Sensuality and deconstruction are shown in daily fashion and formal dress outside the sports field.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.17-31
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is to propose a modern use of traditional culture by developing creative fashion designs that combine modern and traditional styles based on an analysis of traditional costumes of women in the Tang Dynasty of China. The characteristics of the Tang Dynasty women's costume are as follows. The Tang Dynasty women's costume consists of a short coat (衫, Shan), skirt (裙, Qun), half-arm shawl (半臂, Banbi), and short embroidered cape (帔, Pei). The colors are succinct and elegant, commonly red, yellow, green and navy blue in its entirety. It may be classified by pattern that blend plant patterns, animal patterns, geometric patterns, and two or more mixed patterns. On the basis of the characteristics for traditional women's costume during the Tang Dynasty, the CLO 3D program is employed to develop digital fashion design for four pairs of 3D digital clothing and the production of two pairs of work product. The results are as follows. First, the development of fashion design reflecting the design characteristics of traditional women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty of China could be expressed as fashion design reflecting unique values while connecting tradition and modernity. Second, the 3D virtual clothing program displays an extremely important effect in design deployment and pattern arrangement by having efficiency and convenience in clothing production. The CLO 3D program is closely combined with the 2D design and 3D effect and heightened efficiency while being appropriate to realize sustainability while saving processing time and energy for the sample products. Third, the production of an actual product by facilitating the 3D virtual clothing design may lead to time savings and an effective economy and may allow for the comparison of digital fashion design and actual products as well as confirming the effects of digital fashion design.