• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.48-64
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.145-156
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• 2009

This study proposes the product development through an organic link with multi-faceted analysis on the archetype of traditional costumes culture. In order to find ways to develop cultural products, Jogakbo was selected, and the research result is as following. 1. Analysis on the types of Jogakbo products sold in the market shows that there are not only living, stationary, and fashion items, but also DIY packages. In terms of materials used, most of these Jogakbo products were made of fabric or mixture of different materials. These products displayed similar tendency by reflecting formative characteristics of Jogakbo. 2. This study analyzed the color, surface composition, material, manufacturing, and usage of Jogakbo. The rotor of Jogakbo is mostly composed of mono tone colors or Obangsac(five-element colors). The mono tone colors carries environmentally friendly meaning as it is using the natural color and Obangsac means harmony. Moreover, the surface composition of Jogakbo represents the expansion through connection and its material is also meaningful in that it is recycling. Manufacturing of Jogakbo has educational significance, fortune-wishing characteristics, decorative function, it also gives a gratification of handcraft. The usage of Jogakbo is a multi-(unctional article whose form is determined by an item that is held inside it. 3. Through the analysis on Jogakbo, this study presents the baby wear in relation to the ere-friendliness of colors, brooch sets using the surface composition, dresses using recycling fabric, children's educational instruments with educational significance, as well as multi-functional packages in regards to usage of Jogakbo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.7 s.155
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• pp.1012-1024
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of color, shirt tone, tie tone, perceiver's gender on impression formation by applying tone on tone coloration of shirt and necktie: coloration of two colors. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 32 upper body photographs which were color outputs by CAD system(4D-box program). We unified those colors of shirts and neckties same, then made shirt and necktie tone differently. 27 bi-polar adjectives, each of which was graded into seven in its degree, were used to evaluate the impression. The subjects of this research were 192 male and 192 female college students in Gyeongnam province including Jinju City. The data was analyzed by using SPSS program. Analysis methods were four-way ANOVA. The items of the adjectives were classified into 5 impression dimension. - potency, activity, attractiveness, visibility and tenderness. Color, shirt tone, tie tone, and perceiver gender influenced on 5 impression formation by interaction as well as independently. Blue tie with vivid, light or dull tone had an effect on the formation of potency impression, vivid or light tone of shirt affected activity regardless of color or tie tone. As shirt and tie had different tone, effect on the formation of attractiveness impression, light tone had a negative effect on visibility but positive effect on tenderness. red color were more effective than blue expressed on visibility and tenderness in shirt or tie.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.117-128
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• 2012

This study compares the net effect of wearing different shoulder/arm armor systems on garment impediment perception and wearer acceptability. Two independent variables in this study were armor systems and shoulder/ arm movements. There were four armor systems of control garment and arm armor systems A, B, and C as well as five types of arm/shoulder movements, (shoulder flexion, should extension, shoulder abduction, shoulder horizontal flexion, and shoulder horizontal extension). Ten male volunteers wearing size medium battle dress uniform (BDU) with recent relevant military experience participated in this study. The volunteers performed shoulder/arm movements (while wearing each armor treatments) and completed the garment impediment perception as well as wearer acceptability scales. The body areas of neck side, shoulder top, and armscye front showed the highest frequency of reported impediments. Resistance to movement and localized pressure were the most frequently mentioned types of impediment. The armor system B had the most areas of impediment, and was rated as more restrictive than the control garment and armor system A for each movement. For wearer acceptability, no significant differences were found between the control garment and armor system A for all eight items; this indicated that subjects did not perceive a difference between wearing the control garment and armor system A. There was a trend for wearer acceptability to decrease from wearing the control garment to armor systems A to C to B.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.85-102
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.700-711
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences in the method of patternmaking, difficult in draft of patternmaking, fit in sleeve, aesthetic view, fashionableness in the five types of two-piece sleeve under the controled situation. Five types of two piece sleeve that were originated from five countries including domestic companies which called A type, B type, C type, D type, and E type were used. In order to conduct the experiment fur the study, 10 persons who were well organized about the patternmaking drafted 5 types of sleeve and were tested for the differences in the method of patternmaking, difficulty in draft of patternmaking. Another panel were tested for fit in sleeve, aesthetic view, fashionableness in the five types of two-piece sleeve in jacket under the controled situation. The results of this study were as followed 1. C type was needed height of armhole in bodice and D type was needed height of armhole and width of armhole in bodice as well as all parts of sleeve measurements to draft patternmaking. 2. There were significant differences of the items such as cap height, ease amount around sleeve cap, width of sleeve, forwardness of sleeve and the length of elbow line of the five types patternmaking drafted. 3. There were significant differences of difficulty in draft of the five types of patternmaking. C type and E type were easier to draft. 4. There were significant differences in fitness of the sleeves in jacket. C type and E type were more fit. 5. There were significant differences in aesthetic view. A type, B type and E type were more aesthetic under the situation. 6. There were significant differences in fashionableness in jackets. A type and E type were more fashionable under the situation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.462-473
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• 2008

In recent years, Korea's apparel exports to the USA have faced a great threat, as the trade environment around the world has changed continually. The purpose of this study is to analyze the competitive position of Korean apparel exports to the USA, and to enhance export competitiveness by applying to offshore sourcing. The trade data of the Office of Textiles and Apparel(OTEXA) in the U.S. Department of Commerce were selected for inquiry about export competitiveness of apparel products made in Korea. In addition, we targeted members of the Korea Apparel Industry Association among the 500 exporters of clothing items in "The Import and Export Textile Product 2003." A total 70 sheets were analyzed. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Korean apparel exports to USA have decreased by 20-35 percent per year since 2005 under the Free Trade Area, showing that Korean apparel industries have not adapted to the new trade environment. Although Korean apparel exports to USA have indicated a trade surplus from now on, Korean apparel industries should find new ways to overcome this situation, diminishing exports and increasing imports. 2) Korean apparel companies selected more offshore sourcing than domestic sourcing. Also, as Korean apparel companies manufactured apparel products offshore, foreign subcontracting outranked manufacturing in their own foreign plants. When they chose foreign countries to source, they turned mainly to China and Vietnam. Also, they considered the target country's manufacturing price, labor stability, apparel products, quality, lead time, and so on. In order to increase apparel exports, Korean apparel industries should focus more on developing competitively new apparel products, improving the ability of sourcing management, and establishing on-the-spot agencies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.474-485
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the determinants and elements to enhance Korean international competitiveness, employing Porter's(1998) Diamond Model. Half of the 500 leading apparel exporters that were members of the Korea Apparel Industry Association in 2003 were selected as the target of this research. From May to June of 2003, survey questionnaires were sent to executives of these 250 companies in person or by telephone, e-mail, or fax. Seventy questionnaires were used for the final data anlysis. The items used were Reliability, Categorical Regression, and Frequency, using SPSS 11.5. The results were as follows: First, as a result of analyzing the influence of international competitiveness in Korean apparel industry, the firm's strategy, structure, and rivalry was the most influential factor. Others were related and supporting industries, government, chance, demand conditions, and factor conditions. Also, the elements that affect Korean international competitiveness were listed as the level of price competition in foreign markets, the level of labor cost, export marketing capacity, and exchange fluctuation. The most important element to improve the international competitiveness of the Korean apparel industry was a demand growth rate of the overseas markets(Demand Conditions), followed by the level of the labor costs(Factor Conditions), the capability of internationalization(Firm Strategy, Structure, and Rivalry), the change of currency(Chance), the quality and management of products(Demand Conditions), the capability of planning products(Firm Strategy, Structure, and Rivalry), free trade from 2005(Chance), and global sourcing strategy(Firm Strategy, Structure, and Rivalry). Korea's main rival country in apparel related and supporting industry factors is China. However, Korea has a higher level of technology development, quality, and price level than China.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.166-177
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• 2008

This is a basic study of the remaining armors and helmets of the Joseon period for our better understanding and better maintenance of them. For the purpose, this paper shall try to show the present situations of the remaining armor and helmets of the period in Korea, and their typical classification for periodization, and the nomenclature about them. First, to oversee the present situations of the remaining armor and helmets of the period, study was done about the kinds of armors and helmets, their users, and their possessors today. It was found that the exact dates and users were unclear for many cases of the armors and helmets under our consideration. It is understandable when we consider many of them were exported to foreign countries, instead of being well-preserved in Korea upon excavations. Secondly, for their typical classifications for periodization, types were delineated from the pictures and drawings in reference to the periodical changes of them from Korean historical records. The result was that we can find out 4 types of armors, and 3 types of helmets, with their combinations. This shall be usefully applied for the better periodization of the remaining items. Thirdly, we come to the problem of naming of the remaining armors and helmets. For better nomenclature of the remains all the names of the armors and helmets for the Joseon period are collected from historical literature, to figure out some principles of nomenclature for them. I found some discrepancies with the present names of them, and my propositions are suggested to replace them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.87-98
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• 2002

The purpose of this research is to investigate the difference on c1othing image evaluation in the ratings between men and women. For this study, pilot test was conducted to 50 clothing majored university students to explore the stimulus of 'cute', 'casual', 'sexy', 'elegant', 'intelligent', 'formal', 'romantic', 'individual', 'refined' for the 9 each image styles from the 32 spring wears in fashion magazine $\ulcorner$FARBE$\lrcorner$(March. 2000). On the basis of the preliminary survey, the question items explored the 15 pairs of polar adjectives as seven-point Likert Scale. The main survey was preceded 94 female and 111 man of university students from March 13 to 24 in 2000, twice for 7-days interval. There were significant differences between the two sexes for each style image ratings. It was found that the female was recorded mote ordinary, stable. refined. superior, plain, like than the male for intelligent style. Meanwhile, the intelligent style was evaluated well on in years by female, but male young. The female tended that elegance style was more stable, warm and less young than the male. The cute style was evaluated more light, tender, feminine, young by the female than the male, find the female looked warm while the male cool. The formal style was more stable, unrefined. solid, unfamiliar dislike, old by the female than the male. The casual style was revealed plain and warm by the female while splendor and cool by the male, the female more active, tender, familiar than the male and individual, attractive and poor quality than the female. The sexy style was evaluated more active, good appearance, young than the female, tender than the male and the female dislike a bit while the male like. The female evaluated the refined style for more stable. refined. superior good appearance and nature than the male. The romantic style was evacuated more like, refined, superior, good appearance nature and familiar by the male, but the female a bit unfamiliar. The individual style was revealed that the female evaluated cool and a bit dislike while the male warm and like, and the male more refined, feminine, young than female.