Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
권호 표지

A Study on Draping and Making up of Spencer Jacket in the Empire Style(1789-1820)

엠파이어 스타일 시대[1789-1820] 스펜서 재킷 제작에 관한 연구

  • Choi Mi-Kyung (Dept. of Traditional Costume Culture, Jeonju University) ;
  • Jo Jin-Sook (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Ewha Womens University) ;
  • Choi Jin-Hee (Dept. of Traditional Costume Culture, Jeonju University)
  • 최미경 (전주대학교 전통패션문화) ;
  • 조진숙 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과) ;
  • 최진희 (전주대학교 전통패션문화)
  • Published : 2006.05.01
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

Keywords

References

  1. 이경희 외 (2001), 패션 디자인 발상, 서울: 교문사, p. 3
  2. 김문숙 외 (1996), 실물제작을 통한 의상연구-1992-3년 데이 드레스(Day Dress)의 설계 및 디자인 분석, 복식, 29, pp. 117-126
  3. 최미경 (2003), 엠파이이어 스타일 시대 스펜서 재킷 구성에 관한 연구, 이화여대 대학원 석사학원논문
  4. 한국사전연구사 (1997), Fashion 전문 자료 사전, 서울: 한국사전연구사, pp. 890-891
  5. 신상옥 (1991). 서양복식사. 서울: 수학사, p. 252
  6. 신상옥 (1991). 서양복식사. 서울: 수학사, p. 258
  7. 이정옥, 최영옥, 최경순 (2000), 서양복식사. 개정판. 서울: 형설, p. 232
  8. 추미경 (1998), 현대 복식에 표현된 신고전주의 특성에 관한 연구. 상명대학교 디자인 대학원 석사학위논문
  9. 신상옥 (1991). 서양복식사. 서울: 수학사, p. 261
  10. Wilcox, R. Turner (1958), The mode in costume, New York: Scribner, pp. 262-263
  11. 이정옥, 최영옥, 최경순 (2000), 서양복식사. 개정판. 서울: 형설, p. 235
  12. 정흥숙 (1999). 서양복식문화사. 서울: 교문사, p. 291
  13. Tortora, Phyllis G. & Eubank, Keith (1994). Survey of historic costume: A history of western dress. New York : Fairchild Publications, p. 267
  14. Payne, Blanche (1965). 이종남 (역) (1988), 복식의 역사: 고대 이집트에서 20세기까지. 서울: 까치, p. 454
  15. Jacques Ruppert, Madeleine Delpierre (1931), Le costume-v. 5 Consulat-Premier empire Louis-Philippe-Napoleon III. Paris : Flammarion, p. 19
  16. Payne, Blanche (1965). 이종남 (역) (1988), 복식의 역사: 고대 이집트에서 20세기까지. 서울: 까치, p. 508
  17. Jean Starobinski and Philippe Duboy (1990), Revolution in Fashion: European Clothing, 1715-1815, Kyoto Costume Institute, p. 98
  18. 박혜령 (1985). 중세말기에서부터 19세기까지의 칼라형태에 대한 고찰, 건국대학교 대학원 석사학위논문
  19. 박선애 (1982). Sleeves의 복식사적 고찰 및 구성방법론: 고대 Egypt부터 19세기까지 여성복을 중심으로. 숙명여대 대학원 석사학위논문
  20. 김혜영 (1989), Empire Style 시대의 의복에 관한 고찰, 경남대학교 대학원 석사학위논문, p. 37
  21. Samples from My Regency pattern. Sense and Sensibility Patterns, retrieved October 6, 2002: available from http://www.sensibility.com/samples/index.htm
  22. Wilcox, R. Turner (1958), The mode in costume, New York: Scribner, pp. 262-263
  23. 최미경 (2003), 엠파이이어 스타일 시대 스펜서 재킷 구성에 관한 연구, 이화여대 대학원 석사학원논문, pp.36-41
  24. Blanche Payne (1965). History of costume: from the ancient Egyptians to the twentieth century. New York: Harper, p. 561, p. 574
  25. Janet Arnold (1972). Patterns of fashion : English women's dresses & their construction 1660-1860
  26. Jean Hunnisett (1991). Period Costume for Stage & Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress. 1800-1909. Studio city: Players Press. p. 32
  27. Pattern Catalog Information, Patterns of Time, retrieved 7 October 2002: available from World Wide Web @ http://www.patternsoftime.Cataloginfo.html
  28. Regency Era, op. cit., http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/regency.htm
  29. A Regency Wardrobe La Mode Bagatelle, retrieved 11 October 2002: available from World Wide Web @ http://lamodebagatelle.com
  30. Velvet Spencer Jacket, Dolley Madison, retrieved 9 October 2002: abailable from World Wide Web @ http://www.visionforum.com/beautifulgirlhood/productlist.asp?dept=45
  31. By Emma (1998). By Gwyneth Paltrow and Ewan Mcgregor. Produced by Ian Wilson. DVD
  32. By Mansfield Park (2003). By Embeth Davidtz, Jonny Lee Miller, AlessandroNivola, Frances O'Connor and Harold Pinter. Produced by Sarah Curtis. DVD
  33. By Persuasion (1995). By Amanda Root and Ciaran Hinds. Produced by Fiona Finlay, DVD
  34. By Sense And Sensibility (1995). By Emma Thompson, Alan Rickman, Kate Winslet, Hugh Grant. Produced by Lindsay Doran, DVD
  35. Shoben, Martin & Ward, Janet (1990). Pattern cutting and making up for outerwear fashions: the light clothing approach. Oxford :Heinemann Professional Pub. p. 116