• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.374-387
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop up-cycling fashion design methods centered on discarded denim material for the study of original up-cycling design methods. Up-cycling fashion design work was developed using digital clothing technology. This is a recent hot topic among sustainable fashion design methods. Up-cycling fashion design expression methods (categorized as dismantlement, collages, dépaysement, grafting, weaving, and tearing) were centered on design methods. These methods create various three-dimensional modeling effects in planar forms, whereby five pieces can be applied to the fabric and digitally produced. The results are as follows: First, the use of discarded denim fabric for the development of up-cycling fashion design pieces enabled the recycling of existing resources, provided solutions to environmental pollution problems, and provided expansion opportunities for design processes for sustainable fashion products that expand the design value of denim products and their utility. Second, new eco-friendly fashion designs that attempt to achieve diversity in modern fashion trends could be presented through formative contemporary fashion produced by up-cycling work products. Third, up-cycling fashion design work is expected to provide opportunities for eco-friendly fashion design methods. This will expand the value of sustainable fashion design by recycling simple waste materials through the use of three-dimensional digital clothing technology and further through the presentation of expanded life cycles that extend product planning, production, and life cycles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.5-16
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• 2000

This study attempts to examine compound weave among silk fabrics of Cho-Sun Dynasty. These silk fabrics have colorful patterns. They can be classified into two types by their texture structure one is called polychrome woven silk of which structure is plain or twill fabric : another is called satan damask of which structure is stain fabric. Their texture structure consist of warp and weft. In addition. there are other types of warp and weft for pattern structure ; various twill structures were used for patterns. A variety of colorful threads, including gold and silver ones. are used fur patterns in them. The brocaded-type fabric was primarily developed during Won Era of China. It was most developed in Ko-Rye Kingdom. During that era flat strip was used the most but its length was usually not long enough to finish one pattern. However, wrapped thread was increasingly used during the middle and later period of Cho-Sun Dynasty due to the development of weaving technology for gold thread. The brocaded-type fabric was produced in Korea and it was also Imported from China according to some record. There are some domestic empirical documents that show the names of imported Satin Samite, Brocaded satin and these are good evidence to prove the nationwide use of the cloth during Cho-Sun Dynasty. The density ratio of warp and weft is almost same except Samite in the third and Satin with flower motif in the second period is most density among them. C·F of Brocaded satin with Mang motif in the third period values the highest price. Brocaded satin, used with both gold and silver threads, is thickest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.49-69
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to develop the competitive swimming suit design with Korean traditional images. which excels in dimension of functionality, aesthetics, and symbolism. To accomplish this study, first. a theoretical examination about Korean image was added, on the basis of the practical research about professional swimmers' preferences as well as the theoretical research about the history of swimming suits and the qualifications of competitive swimming suits in the prior study. Next, practical designing was performed to achieve the creative designs according to Lamb & Kallal's design process. and the superiority of the newly designed swimming suits was evaluated by using Grant's alpha-beta model. The results of this study can be summarized as follows : First. in the problem apprehension stage. the need for swimming suit designs with Korean traditional images for professional swimmers was acknowledged, and three major criteria. which are functionality, aesthetics. and symbolism has been verified. Second. in the preliminary brainstorming stage, considerable amounts of data for the design concept considering the criteria above have been gathered. The athletic one-piece for women and the brief for men in style and nylon/lycra in fabric were used in the aspect of functionality. And the S Korean traditional colors in color and Tae-guk motive and others in pattern were selected to apply Korean traditional images in the aspects of aesthetics and symbolism. Finally, the 13 series of creative designs with 4 themes( l17pieces in total) have been suggested. Third, in the design improvement stage. after the preference to each design was surveyed, reformation of the designs was arranged on the basis of the results. Fourth, in the prototyping stage. the 17 actual prototypes, including 13 pieces for women and 4 pieces for men were produced. Fifth. in the evaluation stage. the evaluation procedure using Grant's alpha-beta model was performed. As a result, the newly designed swimming suits were rated above other existing ones in all three aspects of functionality, aesthetics, and symbolism.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.14
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• pp.94-108
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• 1993

The cultural properties of cloth are of animal orgin (silk), or of vegetable orgin(cotton, hemp, ramie). As clothes are of an orginic material, they were subjected to damage by chemical, phisigical or biological factors, viz, moulds insects, lights, humidity and temperature changes, etc. And these factors promote that clothes generally result from various types of deterioration. In 1992, We were performed the conservation treatments for total 9 pieces of cloth, such as 3 pieces of General PAK SHIN-RYONG(Important Folklore Material No.110) 3 pieces of Madam Jung(Important Folklore Material No.115) and 1 piece of King Se-jo(Important Folklore Material No.219). The procedure of the conservation treatment for clothes describe the following below. 1) The washing and dry-cleaning to remove the contaminated substances from cloth was used 0.2% stearyl potassium soap solution and the mixture solution compound of n-Hexane, C6H14. and n-Decane, C10H22. And after the washing and dry-cleaning, the dry of clothes was carried out in a warm condition. These steps were repeated in 2 times over for each cloth. 2) The repair of clothes was attached the similar textiles to stronger fabric linings by needlework.3) The reprodution was made for cloth of King Se-jo to equalize the type, color, quality and skill of materials. 4) After these above procedures, all clothes fumigated to prevent the biodeterioration by using the mixed gas of methyl bromide and ethylene oxide as insecticide and fungicide. 5) Finally for the purpose to keep in a safety long-term condition, the treated clothes sealed with Biaxially Oriented Polyvinylacohol Film(BO-PVA film) and Helium, purity 99.999%, filled up in sealed BO-PVA film bag.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.49-63
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of modular design observed in Korean traditional clothing. Modular design, which is one of the noticeable characteristics of modern fashion design emerged in the 20th century. This study analyzed the Korean traditional culture to investigate the characteristics that show similarities to the modular system in design. A traditional Korean house is composed of small structures called 'chae'. A traditional Korean building is composed of a basic unit space called 'kan', and the rooms are divided and recombined. Korean traditional interior design shows furniture, bedding and art works that could be used, folded then stored. Korean cuisine is served in combination with small dishes. Korean letters are combined in square shaped form to make writing and printing easy. Korean traditional clothing has a way of washing where clothing are disassembled, washed and then re-stitched. The pattern pieces are made to be rectangular shaped so that the fabric pieces can be kept in shape during washing. The rectangular shaped pattern pieces can be replaced and reused after washing. Tops and bottoms could be interchanged for color-coordination, because the shapes of the clothing were standardized. These features exhibit modular system in Korean traditional clothing design. Modular system design has common characteristics which have basic modules, pursue practical purpose, have interchangeability adapted to circumstances, and could be disassembled and re-combined. Korean traditional clothing illustrates different ways of practicing modular system, but has some common features to contemporary modular fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.129-144
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• 2004

The modems who lives complicated society, the silence which the Orient thought asserts leads and to get comfortable. It is becoming, the like this social atmosphere will in the interest regarding a manual example and the Orient material, the use of the embroidery textile goods is increasing specially. The purpose of this article is to suggest a model for development of machine embroidery fabric material and highly value added apparel industries. The multi-headed embroidery machine where the application scope is wide from the dissertation, we are requested' NaNa company'. The multiheaded embroidery machine uses TAJIMA TMFD-G620 and SUNSTAR SWF-／B-WD(X) 620-100 the embroidery textile uses the silk, the cotton and the synthesis fertile goods etc 24 type, the embroidery thread Maraton thread(viscose rayon 100％) with used the cord. The 8 Korean motives are made on 23 fabrics, 6 of which are full-sized manufactured one-pieces and the other 17 of which are produced to home interior goods such as curtains or fashion accessories like handbags as simulations. Among the products, the pattern-4-1 and the pattern-4-2 are contracted with local fashion industry, and the pattern-1-1～3 are dealing with other companies in Japan. The computerized machine-embroidering and simulation producing of fashion items are available to reduce the cost in making samples and transfer the old labor ＆ toil-centered industry into the new technique ＆ knowledge centered one.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.6
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• pp.1177-1192
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• 2023

This study aims to expand the scope of use for relics by applying the patterns and characteristics of embroidered fabric pieces, such as gold foil, excavated from the Mireuksa Temple Site in Iksan for fashion products. The artifact was a ra decorated with flower and vine patterns, embroidery using gold and red thread, and the unique stitching of Baekje. The pattern was reconstructed, as the embroidery was not well-preserved. This study used two types of gold-foil techniques: laser-cut and stone-stamp gold foil. Considering practicality, the gloss, toughness, custom production possibility, and design implementation were emphasized. The form of the laser-cut gold foil could be transformed; however, a recognition problem with the machine increased the thickness of the stitching. It was used for half-finished goods and commercial casual fashion. The stone-stamp gold foil was finely implemented, but the design was difficult to change. It was used for half-finished silk fabric for making hanbok po and lattice-patterned silk skirts. Applying the developed gold foil to suitable clothing can further enhance the effect.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.49-59
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• 2013

This research study investigates the cultural significance and meaning of Thai Mudmee, their historical content, and the variety of the Thai Mudmee techniques, including patterns, symbol and colours. The aim has been to develop the traditional pattern and designs of the Thai Mudmee and produce contemporary textile pieces more appropriate for modern lifestyle tastes both in Thailand and Internationally. By reviving the Thai weaving tradition it is also hoped to encourage and maintain the continuous survival of tradition Mudmee, providing new sales opportunities and markets both in Thailand and abroad. Studying various attempts to redevelop traditional crafts in different countries brought to me the idea of how to develop folk crafts, the problems that occur in this area have encouraged me to express how folk crafts could be benefit from the design process. In this thesis I also express my recommendations for other researchers and the Thai government, as well as other people who interested in Mudmee design. The thesis concludes with the possibilities of how to improve the design of the Mudmee fabric and further areas of research.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.41-64
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• 1995

A clothing design preference & clothing satisfactions(a general satisfaction, fitness) was studied for women 55 years and older. The major results are as followings. In view of a clothing design preference, 1) Styles of outdoor clothes for spring-fall : ① Two-pieces ② Blouse(Sweater) & Slacks ③Blouse(Sweater) & Skirts. 2) Colors of clothes for seasons: (Spring - Pink, Light yellow, beige), (Summer - Light blue, Blue, Light green), (Fall - Brown, Red purple, Beige), (Winter - Black, Brown, Gray). 3) Fabric prints ; ① Unicolor without print ② Geometric print ③ Traditional print. 4) Kinds of textiles : ① Easy Laundriability ② A style of dressing ③ Uncrumple. In view of clothing satisfactions for ready made clothes, they have unsatisfactory trends as following orders. 1) Considering a general satisfaction : ① Clothing which go with oneself ② Fitness ③ Matching with other clothes. 2) Considering fitness for clothes : ① Sleve length ② Shoulder width ③ Length in Blouse (Sweater) & Jacket, ① Length ② Waist ③ Girth of hip (under abdomen) in slacks (skirts).