• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.191-196
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• 2011

Fabric extraction force measured through nozzle tester reflects a comprehensive fabric handle. Nozzle tester takes advantage of low cost, and simple and fast operating procedure compared with KES system. The paper is to develop the semi-emprical equation for assessment of the fabric handle measured with nozzle tester on the basis of friction law. The variables considered in the equation arc fabric's frictional coefficient and drape coefficient which is determined in terms of fabric bending length and shear strain. The experiment of 12 different cotton and polyester fabrics and comparisons between experimental and theoretical results were conducted. Fabrics of high frictional coefficients, high bending length, and low shear strain showed high fabric handle forces (low handle values). The handle forces predicted from the equation agreed well with those measured, which indicates that the equation can be used to objectively evaluate fabric handle with respect to fabric's own properties and also provide an information for fabric design to improve the handle performance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.156-162
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• 2013

For the development of high quality textiles, silk fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed silk fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curves of the silk fabrics were increased; however, the tensile resilience of fabrics decreased. The hysteresis values of shear force were increased without significant change of shear stiffness. The coefficient of friction values were also decreased and geometrical roughness values were increased. The silk fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight grow as the number of padding increases. The hand values of silk fabrics which were classified into 6 items in the Kawabata Evaluation System, were evaluated as repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice. The hand values of Koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness) were increased, whereas Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Fukurami(fullness and softness) were decreased by dyeing with persimmon juice. However there was no significant change in hand values according to repeating padding times of dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.609-619
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• 1996

Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) has been used as a mainstream fiber to make silklike fiber. The silky characteristics such as softness, dry touch feeling and flexibility can be obtained by weight reduction treatment. In aqueous alkali solution, the surface of PET is dissolved away and reduced in weight. The PET fiber, yarn and fabric become thinner and the gaps between fibers are wider. Its mobility is greatly improved without change of basic structures of the treated PET fibrics. The alkali treatment was conducted under the various experimental conditions such as alkali (NaOH) concentration, treatment time and temperature. As the weight loss increased, drapability improved and tensile strength remarkably reduced. When the PET fabrics lost 30% in their weight, drape coefficient lowered as much as 30oA and tensile stregth lowered as much as 50%. The weight loss over 30% brings great improvement in drapability and dyeability and significant decline in durability. By the alkali treatment, absorbency in spectrophotometer of dyed PET can be increased as much as 82% due to the increase of the surface area and formation of microvoids on the surface.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.517-523
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• 2003

We studied the physical properties of silk fabrics after degumming, the dyeability and the color fastness of silk fabrics after degumming and sericin fixing. As the sericin was removed from silk fabrics, the rate of weight loss increased and both the abrasion resistance and the drape coefficient decreased. This means that the amount of the sericin remained in silk fabrics significantly affects the physical properties of silk fabrics. On the surface and the cross-section of silk fabrics, the silk fibers enclosed by the sericin seemed to be in a lump shape. Each fibroin strand, however, got scattered, as the process of degumming went through. The dyeability of silk fabrics degummed decreased at between 20$^{\circ}C$∼80$^{\circ}C$ the dyeing temperature, on the other hand, it significantly increased over 80$^{\circ}C$. The dyeability of the sericin-fixed silk fabrics was lower than that of the non-serin-fixed silk fabrics, to a little extent. The colorfastness of crocking in the dyed-silk fabrics was a little low and that of the sweat was much lower in a basic sweat. Especially, the colorfastness of the partially degummed silk fabrics was low, because the sericin was not stable in the condition of sweat. Therefore, the process of sericin fixing is essentially required, for the partially degummed silk fabrics and the process of degumming itself.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.66-71
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• 1986

The studies were carried out to screen the optimum conditions for enzymatic degumming of raw silk yarn and silk fabric by use of Alkalase, a protease produced by Bacteria, comparing with Papain and Trypsin representing natural proteolytic enzymes. 1. The optimum temperature and acidity of degumming solution were 70$^{\circ}C$, pH 5-6 for Papain degumming, 40$^{\circ}C$, pH 8 for Trypsin and 50-60$^{\circ}C$ pH 8-9 for Alkalase. 2. By increasing the Alkalase concentration in the range of 0.6 to 1.0 gram per liter, the time for enzymatic degumming of silk yarn could be reduced by 40 minutes. 3. In degumming of silk yarn by Alkalase, the pretreatment of 95$^{\circ}C$, 10 minutes at 0.1% sodium bicarbonate solution or posttreatent of 80$^{\circ}C$, 20 minutes at 2% (o.w.f.) sodium silicate solution improved the efficiency of enzymatic degumming, as compared to that of nontreatment. 4. The breaking strength, elongation and Lousiness results of enzymatically degummed silk yarn were apt to be improved more than those of soap-degummed one. 5. When the pretreatment of alkaline solution was done with over 20% of degumming ratio, the enzymatic degumming efficiency of both Havutae and Crepe de chine could be reached to the same level with those of soap-soda degummed. 6. As the pretreated silk fabric with 20% of degumming ratio was under action of three proteases, respectively, the deumming efficiency of Havutae and Crepe de chine were completed by Alkalase more than by Papain or Trpysin. 7. The stiffness of enzymatically degummed Crepe de chine was not only reduced by 17% more than that of soap-soda degummed one but also the Drape coefficient was decreased in enzymatically degummed fabrics, which was closely related with the soft touch of degummed fabrics.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.72-78
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• 1986

The studies were performed to investigate the optimum conditions for tannic processing of silk by use Chinese Gallotannin and synthesized tannic acid, which are aimed at weighting, dyeing and physical properties of tannin treated silk. 1. It was reasonable that the concentration of tannin solution is 30 grams per liter of Chinese Gallotannin, 15 grams per liter of tannic acid for the efficient weighting of processed silk. The temperature and time for tannin treatment was optimum at 80$^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and the acidity of tannin solution at pH 2 to 3. 2. In dyeing the tannintreated silk by Acid dye Orange II, the temperature and time was reasonable at 60$^{\circ}C$, 90 minutes to control the desorption of tannin components weighted onto silk. 3. The colour differences ($\Delta$E) of dyed silk fabric by soaping could be remarkably narrowed by tannin treatment, resulting in improving the washing fastness of tannin treated silk by two grades more than that of untreated one. 4. The light fastness of tannin treated silk could be drastically improved by reducing the dye-loss of dyed silk fabric which was coused from the Ultra-violet ray irrdiation. 5. The rubbing fastness and water repellency of tannin treated silk was at the same level with that of untreated one. However, the Drape coefficient of tannin treated silk was decreased more than that of untreated one, which is closely related with fabric softness and dressing appearence.