• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.30-44
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• 2020

Bootleg fashion emerged from the fashion industry after 2010, and has been used across a range of different genres. However, it has yet to be theoretically established; therefore, this study will explain bootleg fashion as a new genre, which will help in the planning and designing of products within domestic fashion brands. The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristics and internal meaning of bootleg fashion as a recently emerged fashion phenomenon that borrows from other brands without permission. The research methodology included a theoretical literature review of fashion sites and related materials and empirical research using case analysis. Results of the analysis of both characteristics and internal meaning of bootleg fashion suggest the following characteristics: "unauthorized use of symbolic elements," "disorganization of boundaries between fashion," "multiplicity through globalization," and "newness through deconstruction and recombination." Internal meanings derived from the analysis were "parody through symbol," which is seen as "a parody and homage resulting from the unauthorized use of a brand," while "decomposition through disorganization" is seen as a break-up of the boundaries between different fashions from a mainstream-oriented perspective. A juxtaposition of elements was demonstrated by "playfulness through transformation," which showed that such fashion cannot coexist with positional transposition. Finally, "spread as a cultural phenomenon" was derived through the diffusion through digital media with DIY culture. As such, bootleg fashion has been reborn as an innovative fashion genre, breaking the taboo of the illegitimate from the past and demonstrating new endeavors.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.215-231
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• 2024

The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021-2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection's outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.245-256
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• 2018

This study considers application types and meanings of fashion engineering by analyzing CuteCircuit. The conclusions of this study are as follows. The application type of fashion engineering shown in CuteCircuit is first, electronic fashion, which attaches LED or WL on the surface of clothes to express the decorative function in clothes as optical light change, ultimately performing one-dimensional function. Second, interactive fashion is a medium in which clothing connects human beings with other human beings with sensors that can recognize the changes in tactile or movement with the wearer or with a light source that can visualize the emotional changes of the wearer. Third, scientific fashion has emerged as a new type of fashion in which new materials introduced in the field of engineering are fused with clothing to expand functionality and aesthetics. The meanings of fashion engineering in CuteCircuit is first, trying to conceptualize a new beauty as an open fashion that can freely change with the creation of a dual beauty by combining analog and digital sensibility. Second is the external representation of human psychological change or emotional exchange, which helps to form a consensus by understanding and exchanging emotions of different people. Third, reorganization of apparel pursuing integrated value appeared. Clothing, as a connection body in which the human body and the mechanical environment are combined with each other, is reestablished as a product of variable body that can embody an integrated value that includes various characteristics and can be diversified appropriately in any circumstance.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.107-125
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• 2007

In human history, scarf has acted not only as a protection for body but also as a symbolization of class. Today, scarf has become a whole field in fashion and an important accessory to express individuality in fashion. Hence, like other fashion item, it is very important to develop exclusive design for scarf by analyzing the current fashion trend. In this research, we have designed a scarf textile, accordance with the contemporary design trend, applying the floral pattern, designed by William Morris who was an artist considered as the founder of the 1800s arts and crafts movement. We selected four trend themes, "Salon de Archives", "Eco Tech", "Profound Nature", and "Neo Aristo" for the design of 2007/2008 Fall/Winter. The flower motifs in Pimpernel Wallpaper, Honeysuckle textile design, Acanthus Wallpaper, Garden tulip wallpaper, Evenlode printed cotton, Trellis Wallpaper, and Chrysanthemum Wallpaper, by William Morris who expressed an image of environment friendly and nature reversion, applied to develop new creative scarf through design after modifying and rearranging these flower patterns. After the pattern was drawn by hand, adjusting of color and repeating of the design was done with DTP (Digital Textile Printing). Through this research, the researchers hopes to be of assistance to the development of national scarf brand design, and to the recapturing of textile industry that once played a important role in Koreans economic development.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.460-471
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• 2023

This study aimed to analyze the consumption value and clothing pursuit benefits of genderless fashion based on gender identity. The study questionnaire was distributed to and collected from men and women in their 20s and 30s living in Seoul City and the Gyeonggi province. The collected data were analyzed by using Cronbachs α, factor analysis, K-means group classification analysis, and ANOVA. The study results were as follows. First, gender identity was categorized into three groups: the genderless group, the traditional gender rejection group, and the traditional gender acceptance group. Therefore, it is necessary to subdivide gender identity rather than acceptance and rejection of traditional gender roles. Second, an analysis of consumption value based on gender identity showed significant differences in terms of fashion value and expressive value. Therefore, it is important to establish a differentiated strategy based on the relevant gender identity group when establishing genderless fashion design or marketing strategy. Finally, the study results showed that clothing pursuit benefits based on gender identity, there was a significant difference in terms of individuality pursuit, deviation from the norm, and fashion pursuit. In particular, since the genderless phenomenon agrees with the characteristics of the MZ generation, it will be necessary to share brand information or product information through digital media or to utilize a sharing culture-that is, 'meaning out' tendency and 'flex culture' (i.e., conspicuous consumption).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.736-748
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• 2017

This study was carried out to offer basic data that can be used for clothing industry for active senior males emerging as a new consumer bracket in the rapid aging age. To this end, this study conducted a questionnaire survey on consumers' wearing condition targeting active senior males. As a result of the questionnaire survey targeting active senior males, the outdoor wear items that they had the most were windbreaker jackets, long pants, and they said the most important reason for their preferred brand was wearing sensation. The matters to consider in purchasing outdoor wear were also wearing sensation and size. Consequently, the active senior males regard wearing sensation as very important. The measurements that they felt uncomfortable by body part were the abdominal extension circumference, sleeve length and jacket length of a jacket, and the rise and lengths of pants. To design the outdoor wear patterns suitable for the active senior male's body type, the pattern measurements of these body parts need to be modified. From the fact-finding survey result on outdoor wear companies, their measurement indicating method was the same for jackets, but each brand used different methods for pants. Based on the results of this survey, outdoor wear needs to be developed to meet active senior needs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.137-156
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the general status of wearing clothes and clothing purchase of middle-aged women in the 40's to 50's, the patterns and colors of clothes they prefer, clothing preference related with fitting or such, and also complaints. And this paper also divides the middle-aged women into those in the 40's and 50's to analyze how they differ in terms of the apparel brands and fitting they prefer and also the status of wearing clothes. For the research, a survey was performed to 350 women, and the survey data went through x2 and t-test analysis by using SPSS 20.0 to examine significant difference. The results of this study are as follows: the women in the 40's included as the subjects showed a high frequency of clothing purchase from casual brands or SPA brands and regarded design to be important at the clothing purchase. Meanwhile, the women in the 50's indicated a higher frequency of clothing purchase of middle-aged women's apparel brands, outdoor brands, madam clothes, or designer brands and thought activity to be crucial at the clothing purchase. As the women in the 40's and 50's showed difference in the brands they preferred, particularly the fitting indicated difference in terms of dissatisfaction. While those in the 40's preferring and buying young casual showed particularly more fitting problems in the arm-hole girth, upper arm circumference, bust size, and thigh or hip area, those in the 50's indicated fitting problems in the hip circumference or waist measurement. It is expected that this study will be used as foundational data to set up the target age by related apparel companies or develop clothes with great size fitting and design satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.31-46
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• 2018

This study was carried out to offer basic data that can be used for outdoor wear production for active senior males, emerging as a new consumer bracket in the era of rapid aging. To this end, this study modified and complemented the patterns of outdoor jackets for active senior males based on existing outdoor jackets that received the most excellent evaluation. On the basis of the research outdoor wear wearing assessment results, this study confirmed those areas to be modified and proposed areas to be considered in manufacturing outdoor wear for this demographic. As a result of existing outdoor wear's wearing assessment, the jacket of brand B was shown to be the most excellent one. This study actually designed research outdoor wear patterns by modifying the problematic parts through the addition and subtraction of spare length or circumference in the sections where fit satisfaction was low by referring to the selected brands' patterns. The research outdoor wear was designed by referring to the preferred outdoor types and colors that were highlighted in the previous survey result of consumer wearing reality, based on the designs of the outdoor wear receiving the most excellent assessment in wearing assessment. Fabric that specially glued two-layered mesh that bonded the thin membrane of synthetic resin with polyester fabric was used as the material in this study. Wearing assessment was conducted by comparing the manufactured research outdoor wear and the existing outdoor wear selected as excellently assessed outdoor wear. Consequently, this study verified that the wearing fit of the research outdoor wear was more excellent in most items. This study proposed final patterns for outdoor jackets suitable for active senior males through the modification of several items that required improvements as per the wearing assessment of the research outdoor wear.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.167-178
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• 2024

With the advent of the ICT era in the 4th Industrial Revolution era, cutting-edge industries in accordance with changing trends of the time, the MZ generation is leading a new consumer culture with a digital platform-based lifestyle. As such, wearable devices are leading popularization of the market, the need for product development and research that goes beyond simply combining high technology and combines user-centered functions and designs is emerging. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to analyze the functional mechanism of wearable devices according to consumption value of the MZ generation, focusing on wearable devices currently being commercialized in the digital transformation era, their characteristics were also derived. The research method for this purpose involved classifing wearable devices into notification, information, and content types according to their functional mechanisms and examing them. As a result of the research, characteristics of identity, collaboration, customization, and content were derived, I was is thought that they could interact with situational awareness to suit the situation and purpose. They are closely related. They could make social responsibility and sustainable efforts beyond the brand's image and profit pursuit. As the consumption value of the MZ generation, a new consumer class, is highlighted, it is essential to segmenting and analyzing user-centered functions and content, not simply combining cutting-edge technologies this study is significant in that it provides essential data for continuous development of wearable devices and the establishment of successful marketing strategies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.11
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• pp.1410-1420
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze characteristics of effective expression on T-shirts pattern by peirce's semiotic theory. The methods of this study was to analyze 721 T-shirts patterns in designer's collection from 2000 to 2004. The results of this study were as follows: First of all, iconic expression showed high frequency after 2000. Characteristics of effective expression were as follows: In geometric expression, repetition was presented as a symbolic sign by regular proportion and rule of dot, line, plane, irregularity, mixture of irregular dot, line, plane. Mixed expression was presented as a iconic and symbolic sign by collage, mixture of dot, line, plane, icon and letter. In iconic expression, simplification of iconic sigrl was presented as a iconic sign by simplification of form, color, texture, realistic expression using digital as a iconic sign, and symbolic face, body as a symbolic sign. Pop art's expression was presented as a iconic sign by a cartoon and commercial character and illusion was presented as a iconic sign. In letter's expression, brand logo was presented as a symbolic sign by transformation of letter's design, a symbolic sign of numeral by transformation of size, thickness, form, color. Symbolic message phrase was presented by slogan, fashion trend, brand image, descriptive indication message as a index sign by using icon or singleness. In conclusion, characteristics of effective expression on T-shirts pattern will present not only the theoretical foundation to raise the value added, but also the information about beauty sense of times, political and social value.