This thesis examines the origin, the change and the symbolic meanings of class representation, and offers a comparative study on the differences of class representation in the history of Korean and western costume on the basis of class representation methods and types shown from ancient times to 18C. In both eastern and western costume, the differences in status are commonly represented in the width and length of costume, color, textile, ornamental design, wearing, decoration, etc. The costume of noble class was wide and long, while that of common class was narrow and short so that it could be convenient for them to move around. Especially, from 16C to 18C in the west the costume of noble class was expanded to the extent that it was inconvenient for them to move around not only by skirt swelling by using hoop, but also by pad, ruff, lace, etc. This appears to show that they are not working class. Wearing and decoration of noble class were much more colorful, complicated and varied, while those of common class were simple and plain. In the west, the wearing of chiton and toga in Greece and Rome was different depending on social status. More specific look at the differences in class representation shown in the eastern and western costume reveals that the higher the rank, the more the women in both Gothic and Chosun period covered the body, thereby representing rank. In 18C, the women in both Rococo and Chosun period commonly showed excessive decoration and lavishness on their hair, and in this period the width of skirt was also commonly expanded to the longest extent, with a slight difference put aside.
The purpose of this study is to inquire the hair, head-dress and clothing(upper clothing: Veil, Samkaksika, Sash) of Bodhisattvas in Dunhuang Mogaoku of the period from Northern Liang Dynasty(421∼439) to Tang Dynasty(618∼907). The method of this figure and the change of clothing form : 'Dunhuang Mogaoku'1st Volume-4th Volume. The Bodhisattvas' hair style are somehat various ; A part in her hair, Suibal, Gae, Sakbal. A part in Bodhisattvas's hair is observed from Northern Liang Dynasty to Sui Dynasty. But Suibal had been continuous succeeded. Meanwhile, in the periods of Sui and Tand Dynasty, there were the hair styles whose ends were curled up. It is called Eulle Meor-ee. Especially, in Tang Dynasty various styles of Gae were appeared. Doogun was observed from Northern Wei to Tang Dynasty. There were three kinds of head-dress; Samsikkwan(having 3 decoration), Bokwan and Jungmeunkwan(appeared in Tang Dynasty). Meanwhile, Sash let was become more and more decorative. The Upper clothing can be classify into Veil, Samkaksika, Sash, etc. Veil were observed in every period but X shaped one was form Northern Wei and U shaped one was from Northern Zhou Dynasty. After the period of Sui Dynasty U shaped Veil become prevalent. Samkaksika was observed for the first time in Northern Zhou Dynasty. Cutted sam-kaksika was appeared in Sui Dynasty and succeeded to Tang Dynasty. Poncho tyed Samkaksika was also observed in Tang Dynasty. In Westhern Wei Dynasty. daesupo was used into outter garment, which us that chinese influence was deep tell. Sash showed up in Tang Dynasty and it is used for Veil for the whole period of the Dynasty. But using sash for veil was formally hanged on going the lated period of Tang Dynasty. We can observe the sun-moon decoration and the wings of a bird decoration at the Bokwan, Veil, Samkaksika and Sash, etc. It is was the influendce of Sasan Per-sia and India. I will fill up the insufficency of this study wity continous research of ornament(Muktahara) and skirt of Bodhisattva and deeper inquiry of the relationship around the many countries.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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제8권1호
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pp.155-168
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2006
The purpose of this study focusing on the gather decorations shown in the modern fashion was to review needlework techniques and design features of gather decorations and thereupon, analyze the aesthetic characteristics of gather decorations shown in designers' works to examine the gather decoration trend in today's fashion. First, the decorative features of gather decorations different from the conventional costumes are shirring, lace and trimming combined or shirring repeated. Second, in view of sensualism, the gather decorations seem to play a role of enhancing the exposure as a mode of expression, while the indirect exposure or beach is mixed with the materials to widen the range of gather decoration expressions. Third, in terms of history, the conventional decorative techniques are combined with new techniques and materials to create a fantastic and romantic mood different from the conventional costumes. Fourth, in view of rhythms, the wave line of the rim for gather decorations serves to express some vivid effects; on the human body, its monotonous plane repetition will turn into a new expression or a voluminous physical sense of motion. However, since expressions or meanings of the gather decorations are much diversified, they should not be regarded as simple decoration details. Our modern designers searching for new expression of creases use unique structural forms to explore the possibility of creative gather decorations. In all, since gather decorations seem to be significant as unique details conducive to a structural pragmatism and aesthetics, it is deemed necessary to continue to develop gather decorations.
This study aims at considering and analyzing the stature of denim clothing as an ornament as well ai how aesthetic meaning and human being's mental side indwell in the development of denims. which will be proceeded in the future, from the view of contemporary culture of dressing. It is found that the stylishness expressed through denim clothing is formed on the basis of the cultures of party, drawing and disorganization, and the result of the study was as follows. Firstly, the culture of party became the source of for decoration of denim clothing, and denim clothing more glamorize women as a party-look which makes the most use of its advantage to be comfortable and able to display in various ways with splendid artificial jewelry, patchwork, dyed pattern which is elaborately embroidered. Secondly, Such culture of drawing is applied to denim clothing so that denims are expressed to make people feel more human being's warmth as being free from the existing stereotype and formality. Thirdly, the most outstanding feature of denim clothing showed in the culture of disorganization is to make the most use of vintage style as it is. This reflects an image of the culture of disorganization under postmodernism, which is free from the traditional conception of the existing dressing by destroying the original form, in the way of slashing, making a hole and tearing. That is, people can sufficiently express not only free sense of release based on postmodernism by wearing denim clothing, but also human being's intrinsic desire for restoration of humanism or human warmth with splendid decoration or various techniques such as handicraft. It can be recognized these features as the reasons, that make denim clothing place themselves as an original fashion item, by giving denim clothing technical decoration in recent years.
This study focuses on the ideas that Chok-Du-Ri(족두리)ㆍHwa-Gwan(화관) are mentioned a substitute preventing abuses of luxury mood by Gache(가채) as the sharpest social problem at that time. First, the origin of Chok-Du-Ri(족두리) was introduced from Ko-Ko-Gwan(고고관) of Mongo(몽고) in Korea dynasty, then was linked to Chosun. That is, Ko-Ko(고고) started from headgear reflecting spiritual view of the northen people, its size was getting smaller passing through Ming(명) dynasty, its essential decoration changed and it carried out Jeon-Ja(전자) remaining decoration nature by real accessories, then it might be descended to Chosun. Second, Hwa-Gwan(화관) is very different from Nanaec(난액) of Chosun Dynasty Records, rather Jeonia, the original form of Chok-Du-Ri, is more similar to it. Third, its decoration like color, jewel, pattern etc influenced wishes of this life like sex, prosperity, glory, longevity, blessing, wealth and fame. Fourth, Chok-Du-Ri(족두리) was restored a substitute for Gache(가채), it was accessory for preventing luxury life, besides it was modeled from headgear in China, Chosun people had it. It is worthwhile as it was based on Chosun Sinocentrism(조선중화주의) in the latter period of Chosun and made it the fruit of that age. Moreover, in those days Qing(청) society accepted the advanced culture and institutional profit of Qing(청) actually, social mood is that home and overseas policy was corrected in many parts, Chok-Du-RiㆍHwa-Gwan were mentioned a substitute of Gache, symbol of luxury. It shows one part of Practical Thougth that abolishes vanity and affectation and makes useful profits in the latter period of Chosun.
This study is an introductory study on Convergence of Traditional Chinese Paper-cutting Art and Contemporary Ceramic Decoration. As a part of Chinese folk art, now newly developed by the convergence of contemporary ceramic ar, today it promotes artists' creativity and find a alternative way for ceramic art. This mainly explore transition of 2 dimentional paper-cutting art into ceramic art. As a part of convergence art, this study suggest combination of 4 elements yin-yang-true-false with understanding of its history and contemporary status, and towards aesthetic values.
The purpose of this study was to be inquired inner contemplation of the tattoo expressed in the modern costumes. For this study, related documentaries and pictures or photos were analyzed in terms of the theretical background for the history of tattoo, the relation between tattoo and the modern western costumes. The primary source of pictures or photos are Vogue, Collections, Collezioni, Harper\`s Bazaar, Modain, Model et Mode etc. The human\`s needs of body decoration had constantly pursued on the body and costumes from the first until lately. Especially in the recents, as the tattoo is implicated a dynamic and charming method of all kinds of body decoration, it\`s used a motive of modern western costumes. The original tattoo means a picture, word etc. that was put permanently onto their skin using a needle and coloring matter. But, these days tattoo is an expression of street style for something new in the subculture. The results were as a follows : The inner meaning of tattoo represented in the modern costumes was classified into two categories. First, the tattooing was a very important factor to complete fashion design through the history of modern costumes, and also the elaborate tattoo of the body was displayed unrestricted formativeness as the skinhead\`s tattoo, raceless\`s ambiguity of street style and artistic decoration, because that can be faded easily. Second, Tattoo Look was expressed as tattoo prints of the see-through, elastic textiles in the modern costumes. That is, the tattoo enhanced the effect of dramatic atmosphere other formative arts as well as the modern costumes by Tattoo Look. Similarity, Tattoo Look could be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness by the influence of the subculture. Accordingly, in the end of a this century, many experimental designers had applied tattoo to modern costumes. So this study will stand as an important clue to foresee the future costume\`s style and change.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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제14권4호
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pp.1-16
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2012
This study examines the influence of women's appearance decoration on professional image, preference evaluation, and inferences about age and job. For the purpose of this study, women's appearance decoration was limited to eyeglasses, earrings, hair length, and clothing color. A quasi-experimental method was used for this study. The experimental design was a $3{\times}2{\times}2{\times}4$ (eyeglasses${\times}$earrings${\times}$hair length${\times}$clothing color) factorial design. The model of stimulus photographs was a woman in her late twenties. She wore a tailored collared jacket with a white dress shirt. The subjects were 362 female college students residing in Seoul. The results of the research were as follows. First, the woman wearing glasses and earrings was perceived as more professional than the woman without glasses and earrings. The woman with short hair was evaluated to be more professional than the woman with long hair. Light grey and dark grey jackets enhanced a professional image in the woman than red and dark red jackets. The woman without glasses was preferred more than the woman wearing glasses, and the woman wearing earrings was preferred more than the woman without earrings. Second, the woman wearing wire-rimmed glasses, earrings, and grey jacket with short hair was perceived to have the highest level of professionalism. Third, the subjects perceived the woman wearing wire-rimmed glasses as looking the oldest and the woman without glasses as looking young. The subjects perceived the woman with short hair as looking younger by 3 to 4 years than the woman with long hair. Fourth, the subjects frequently considered the woman wearing the wire-rimmed glasses, the woman with short hair, and the woman wearing the grey jacket as having a professional job.
This study was designed to investigate the performance analysis of dining space design, food styling, and table decoration of hotel wedding conventions. For this purpose, it investigated relevant literatures, set up hypotheses to solve main questionable considerations and made a corresponding empirical analysis. For the empirical analysis, a questionnaire survey was conducted to total 316 customers of deluxe hotels in the Seoul area. The model was tested using SPSS 12.0 and AMOS 5.0 on a sample of 321 surveys received with 96% of usable response rate. The results of the empirical analysis are as follows. Dining space design has a significant effect on customer satisfaction. Food styling has significant influence on customer satisfaction. Customer satisfaction has significant influence on revisit intention. Customer satisfaction has a significant effect on word of mouth. Revisit intention has significant influence on word of mouth.
At the multi-cultural society, research is needed to encourage a social atmosphere for enhanced understanding and respect for different cultures & countries. The purpose was to analyze the characteristics of spatial arrangement, space connection, Interior decoration and the relationship among these three features, which showed each country's unique housing form tradition. Three representative cases of historic residences from each country were selected on the basis of a recognized historic architecture directory. Total 18 residences from 6 countries - Korea, China, Japan, Rome, Egypt, and Italy - were comparatively analyzed. As results, aspects generally found in Eastern countries, were the fence as the semi-open boundary between the inside and the outside of the house, the flexibility of spatial opening and partitions between rooms, and finally simple and movable decoration features. On the other hands, aspects appeared in Western countries, were the outer wall of the building as the boundary to the outside, the closed and fixed properties of the room partitions, and finally complex and fixed decoration features. The research also showed that even within the same culture, the degree of openness varied. Each feature of space was related and could be explained within the same context. Housing, regardless of country and culture, tried to accommodate the exterior space inside the building as much as possible. The common pursuit was transformed to various visible forms and its reason might be due to different socio-cultural and environmental backgrounds that need to be continuously explored in academic area.
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