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Research of Fashion Trend through Analysis on Cue II (단서분석(端緖分析)을 통(通)한 패션트렌드 연구(硏究) II)

  • Lee, Young-Jae
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.67-76
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    • 2002
  • This research examines the characteristic trends through analysis on cue in the contemporary fashion distinctly and systematically. It is carried out by both qualitative analysis and quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the four important street fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportivecasual and technos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s S/S. It takes frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test and etc. by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the S/S fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special makeup. 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

The Study of Dressing the Deceased Kings and the Kings Robes in the Coffin in the Yi Dynasty (조선왕조(朝鮮王朝) 왕(王)의 소검(小劍), 대검(大劍), 당재관의대에 대한 연구(硏究))

  • Kim, In-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.5
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    • pp.207-218
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    • 1981
  • This study is the investigation of dressing the deceased Kings and the King's robes in the coffin in the Yi Dynasty of Korea. The Authentic Records of the Yi Dynasty and the Diaries of Sung Jung Won (承政院日記) are mainly referred to as the research materials. The Concrete contents are the robes of the 20th King Kyung long (景宗 : $1720{\sim}1724$) to the 23rd King Soon Cho(純祖 : $1800{\sim}1834) in the Yi Dynasty. As the result of the study, the kinds of the robes in dressing the decreased Kings and the Kings' robes in the coffin are more than forty. The kinds of textile fabrics are about fifty-seven, the kinds of colours of textile fabrics are twenty-nine. All the kinds of costume-from the Kings' ceremonial robes to the Kings' ordinary robes are generally collected, and these kinds of costume are of help for the study of the costume history in the Yi Dynasty. In this study I intend to end in presenting the research materials, and in the later study I have a mind to study each costume in the concrete.

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Effects of Differents types of Clothing and Colours on Clothing Microclimate in the Subjects wearing Sports Wear under Sunlight (일광하에서 운동시의 스포츠웨어 색상과 의복형태가 의복기후에 미치는 영향)

  • Kim, Tae-Kyu
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.3 no.3
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    • pp.271-276
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    • 2001
  • In this study, We endeavored to revaluate the effects of different types of clothing and colors on clothing microclimate in the subjects wearing sports wear at sunlight environment. This study was conducted 4 different kinds (cotton 100%) of clothing ensembles, that was W-1(long trousers and shirt of white color), B-1 (long trousers and shirt of black color), W-s (short trousers and shirt white color), B-s (short trousers and shirt black color) and were done in a climate chamber under sunlight ambient temperature ($33.67{\pm}1.8^{\circ}C$, $46.0{\pm}8.5%RH$) by three males subject who are in good healthy. Start a 20-min rest period, 20-min bouts of exercise and final 20-min recovery period were performed. The kinetic load was given for 20 minutes under the condition of 6.0 km/hr walking speed on the treadmill. The results is as followed In case of same type of garment, temperature within clothing which is based on difference of color the white ensemble keeps higher temperature than black one. According to distribution chart of temperature within clothing in case of chest, white one shows higher temperature than black one, in case of back, black one shows higher temperature than white one. Difference of heart rate was so clear and sequence is W-1>B-1>W-s>B-s, so we could find same tendency with temperature within clothing.

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A Semiological Interpretation of the Koreaness in Paris Park, Seoul (파리공원에 반영된 한국성의 기호학적 해석 -예름슬레우 모델을 중심으로-)

  • 김동찬;유재설;김성준
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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    • v.28 no.3
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    • pp.53-60
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    • 2000
  • Although built-environment has not only function but also socio-cultural meanings, the latter is neglected in the modernism. People don't have the identity of their place because they can't communicate with environment. Therefore, expressing the socio-curtural meanings in landscape is one of main issues after the modern era. The meanings of phenomena can be analyzed by the Semiology based on Structurism, the methodology which has been developed in Linguistics and Anthropology since 1900's. The purpose of this study is to adapt Helmslev's model that can effectively explain the meanings of built-environment and interpret the Koreaness, one of important meanings in contemporary urban park, Paris park. The following methods are used for achieving the purpose. 1. Adaptation of the Helmslev's model for interpreting the urban park. 2. Interpretation of the Paris park. 3. Making the types of interpretion of Paris park. The results are as followings: 1. Helmslev's model can explain the content and expression of the urban park in denotation and connotation. 2. Th socio-cultural meanings of Paris park are the relationship of France, Yan and Yin theory, philosophy of Samjae, king's authority. And they are expressed in the pattern of paving, the shape of mounds, fountain, and pond, a picture of the wall, colours of lightings and columns, and a mark of bollards.

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The Use of Chemical Additives to Protect SBS Rubbers Against Ozone Attack

  • Moakes, C.A.
    • Elastomers and Composites
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    • v.34 no.2
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    • pp.177-182
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    • 1999
  • SBS thermoplastic elastomers offer an inexpensive alternative to vulcanised rubbers for many undemanding applications. They are, however, particularly susceptible to attack from atmospheric ozone leading to cracking as soon as any strain is applied. In most rubber applications some strain is unavoidable. In this paper a compounding approach to protecting SBS thermoplastic rubbers against ozone is described. An explanation is offered for why a protective effect Is observed only when certain combinations of additive are used. SBS elastomers are the most affordable class of thermoplastic rubbers. To achieve finished products resistant to ozone and without compromising the light colours often demanded, recourse must be made to blending with other saturated elastomers or replacement by hydrogenated (SEBS) types. The latter is a significantly more expensive alternative. Under laboratory conditions where the rate of ozone attack is increased by several decades, unprotected SBS begins to crack within a few hours. Several different protective agents are examined here, the best of which, a cyclic enol ether, $Vulkazon^{(R)}$ AFD, can extend the resistance to any cracking to several weeks by the use of a few percent by weight of additive. The systems reported neither discolour the polymer nor stain other materials with which it may be in contact. Use of the protective systems described here could enable SBS elastomers to compete in many applications with the more expensive SEBS polymers.

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Types and Expressive Characteristics of the Chinese Shadow Puppetry Costumes, Yingxi (중국 산시성 피영극 복식의 유형 및 표현 특징)

  • Suh, Seunghee;Zhang, Qian
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.26 no.2
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    • pp.110-128
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    • 2022
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive characteristics of Chinese shadow puppetry costumes. Literature study and case analysis were conducted using books, research papers, and materials from the Xi'an shadow puppetry museum. Based on the Chinese traditional costumes, the shape characteristics are utilized with the intaglio and embossing techniques, and the complex and unnecessary details are omitted to express the costume image in a characteristic and simple manner. Second, colour was used according to the traditional Chinese symbolic colour concept, and the brighter the colour, the higher the role's status. The colour was also used to express identity and character. In addition, relatively vivid and highly saturated colours were used for the transparent effect of the shadow puppetry. Third, a role's status is indicated by the density and completeness of the patterns; the higher the role's status, the more complex and sophisticated the patterns, and the lower the status, the simpler the patterns or no patterns are used. Fourth, the faith for blessing expressed in the shadow puppetry is a representative folk auspicious culture. The repertoire of the shadow puppetry and the patterns on the costumes worn by the puppets, express the culture in an implicit way to symbolize the meaning of auspicious things.

Morphological Characteristics of Chinese Holly (Ilex cornuta) Leaves in Korea (우리나라 호랑가시나무 잎의 형태적 특성)

  • Koh Myong-Hee;Kim Yong-Shik;Oh Hyun-Kyung
    • Korean Journal of Environment and Ecology
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    • v.19 no.4
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    • pp.348-357
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    • 2005
  • The present study was carried out to analyze the leaf variation of hex corn uta which are one of very important native landscape woody materials, but rapidly destroyed by habitat alteration in the past decades. The leaf characters were ranged as 0.9-11.8cm for the leaf length, 0.4-7.7cm for the leaf width, 0.2-13.0mm for the petiole length, $0.7-46.7cm^2$ for the leaf area and 1-13 for the number of leaf serrations. Due to the leaf shape, number of spines, and colours of leaf and fruits, which are the main characters of the cultivars of the Chinese holly, the hollies in the wild and planted as identified as 9 cultivars and one hybrid including 'Cholbuam', 'Inchon' and 'Sun Chun'.

Research of Fashion Trend through Analysis on Cue (단서분석(分析)을 통(通)한 패션트랜드 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Young-Jae
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.4 no.3
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    • pp.79-90
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    • 2000
  • On the beginning of 21C, in which it is a facing problem that the expansive image of future in fashion should be proposed from the comprehensive analysis for the fashion trend. Therefore, in this study, the trends of capricious fashion are distinctly quantified by investigating the cue of fashion in each styles. Also, the systematic evaluation is carried out of analyzing photographs to which the four important fashion styles. In particular, this study takes the practical and numerical results through quantitative analysis by statistical treatment as well as through qualitative analysis that has been formerly used in the other studies. The purposes of this study are to examine fashion trends expressed in important styles in the 1990s, and to formulate productive fashion of the future. In the qualitative analysis, the four important fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportive-casual and techos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s A/W. It takes frequency, percentage, $x^2$-test and etc, by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the A/W fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. The results of this study are summarized as follows: (1) In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. (2) 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special make-up. (3) 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. (4) 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

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A Study on Characteristics of Exterior Design in Passenger Ships (여객선 외관 디자인의 특징에 관한 연구)

  • Byun, Lyang-Soun;Park, Jae-Hee
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.18 no.4 s.62
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    • pp.65-72
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    • 2005
  • The expected demands for the new styling design can be studied by examining the recent deliveries and the new buildings on order. These ships are setting the trend for the operation of passenger ships. There has been a rapid increase in size and produce of ship some remarkable exterior design image. These ships follow very similar design concept, even if their operator compete with each other in the same market. But also new innovative design solution have been introduced to catch the interest of the passengers. The propose of this study is to investigate the exterior styling design in passenger ships, which result form examining the exterior elements such as funnels, pods, hulls, trademark, colours, flowing curvilinear lines and from. Each different passenger ship lines require different design style for different markets, while ships of different sizes and categories obviously require different solution. When a new class is created later, key design element will be retained, with some items being changed and new ideas introduced.

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Changes of Western Men′s Underclothes - in the First Half of the 20C - (서양 남성 속옷의 변천에 관한 고찰 - 20세기 전기 -)

  • 김주애
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.5
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    • pp.53-64
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes of western men's underclothes in the first half of the 20C and analyze functions and features of men's underclothes. This study was to utilize many literatures in the analysis of historical changes of western men's underclothes. In the 1900's, the attached collar was giving place to the detachable, and the coloured shirt for day wear was becoming accepted. The correct wear fur various occasions was given. Double collar was the favourite for day wear. The dress-shirt protector worn over the dress-shirt front. Men preferred to vest and pants in one as a combined garment. In the 1910's, underclothes were permitting freer movement, but what was still more significant was the glowing inclination to reduce the layers which covered the body. The new conception of decency which was beginning to appear continued to characterize underclothing the symbols of social rank, expect for formal occasion, were declining. For day the white shirt was being displaced by the soft-fronted shirt. In the 1927-1930's, Underclothes were reduced in number, extent and thickness. Underclothing had lost two of its original function : it no longer preserved the warmth of the body, nor did it disguise its essential shape. Both sexes discarded the use of white underwear, In the 1930's, men saw an increasing preference for the coloured shirt. Combinations became increasingly popular and the singlet were displacing the under-vest in the 1930's. All undergarments were very commonly in natural colours. In the 1940's, for evening dress. shirt was plain linen front and square cuffs. Short trunks reached to mid-thigh, had a front waist yoke with three button fastening. Underclothes were pursued ease and activity.

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